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Rinko!

Old 08-26-18, 07:00 AM
  #1  
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Rinko!

When I first read Bicycle Quarterly pimping this approach to traveling with a bicycle, my first thought was it seemed like a solution in search of a problem. Unless, of course, you are in Japan and want to take a fast train away from the city for countryside riding. But what do I need something like this for?

Well, last year's Tour de French Fender Day I boxed and shipped my fendered bike out to NY. The front fender was pretty beat up, it took some massaging to get it in good enough shape to ride. Boxing it up in Boston I thought I'd done a good job of repacking. The rear fender was whacked on the way back, and the lower cup on my headset was damaged.

I've determined that cardboard boxes and fendered bikes don't mix well. I posted to the 650b group asking the best way to ship a fendered bike. Mssr. Peter Weigle posted this picture:

The back half of the rear fender is designed to come off. Everything fits into a Trico Iron Case. Wheels are stacked on top separated by foam cushions. The case is a clamshell. @ThermionicScott seconded the Trico case, as he'd used one for PBP a few years ago.

First step was to "rinko" the rear fender. Here's the finished product:



Details later.
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Last edited by gugie; 08-26-18 at 02:55 PM.
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Old 08-26-18, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by gugie View Post


Details later.
WHAT! I can't.
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Old 08-26-18, 07:54 AM
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I have heard nothing but good about the Trico....

What is this "fender" thing?
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Old 08-26-18, 09:39 AM
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So will the previous version heretofore be known as the Pete Best era?
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Old 08-26-18, 09:56 AM
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I recently got a used once Serfas case off local CL for $20. I’m now looking for a way to use it. Do I need to get fenders?
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Old 08-26-18, 10:10 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
I have heard nothing but good about the Trico....

What is this "fender" thing?
Arizona, SoCal, Bay Area, those riders just wait a day until it stops raining. In the PNW, unless you only want to ride 3 months out of the year, you get fenders

Originally Posted by Spaghetti Legs View Post
I recently got a used once Serfas case off local CL for $20. I’m now looking for a way to use it. Do I need to get fenders?
Combine the two. Get some fenders, apply to a bike. Put the whole thing into your Serfas case, get up to NY, ride to FFD with Rudi and me.
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Old 08-26-18, 10:24 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by gugie View Post
First step was to "rinko" the rear fender. Here's the finished product:



Details later.
I look forward to seeing this
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Old 08-26-18, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by gugie View Post
When I first read Bicycle Quarterly pimping this approach to traveling with a bicycle, my first thought was it seemed like a solution in search of a problem. Unless, of course, you are in Japan and want to take a fast train away from the city for countryside riding. But what do I need something like this for?

Well, last year's Tour de French Fender Day I boxed and shipped my fendered bike out to NY. The front fender was pretty beat up, it took some massaging to get it in good enough shape to ride. Boxing it up in Boston I thought I'd done a good job of repacking. The rear fender was whacked there as well, and the lower cup on my headset was damaged.

I've determined that cardboard boxes and fendered bikes don't mix well. I posted to the 650b group asking the best way to ship a fendered bike. Mssr. Peter Weigle with this picture:

The back half of the rear fender is designed to come off. Everything fits into a Trico Iron Case. Wheels are stacked on top separated by foam cushions. The case is a clamshell. @ThermionicScott seconded the Trico case, as he'd used one for PBP a few years ago.

First step was to "rinko" the rear fender. Here's the finished product:



Details later.
That whole BQ series with the constructor trials, Peter Weigle, Rinko, Lili Herse was my first subscription. Absolutely fascinating and enlightening stuff, amazing what the collective genius of all this brings together and how long ago these things were done with stunning results. And how much of it is still more than relevant today based on Peter and Jan's success at the trials.

Oh, and they had Merz as well for good measure.
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Old 08-26-18, 11:25 AM
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https://janheine.wordpress.com/2015/...-train-travel/
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Old 08-26-18, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bwilli88 View Post
WHAT! I can't.
I was soooooooo thinking of you when I wrote this...

Alright, you want some details. Note that this probably only works for a metal fender. If somebody wants to experiment on plastic, be my guest, although it's probably just easier to remove plastic fenders for shipping. They're flexible and much less likely to be damaged in shipping.

I'm assuming you've already attached your fenders and are happy with your fender line. It's all about a good fender line...

First you start with a chunk of old fender, preferably a matching one, something that spoons easily into your fender. This is the toughest part, most people don't have another set of fenders laying around, and are loathe to purchase another set of fender just to cut them up for a splice piece.

If anybody wants to do a Rinko rear fender for either a VO Facetted (700c) or Zeppelin (650b) fender, PM me and I'll send you a proper length, trimmed and cleaned for a small fee. If you have a different type, ask anyways. I have too many old fenders to list them all here.

You need a splice. Cut a section off your donor fender. I used a hacksaw. A Dremel cutoff wheel might be easier, but I couldn't find mine. Also trim off the hem on both sides, but not any more than just the section with the hem. The splice will "spoon" up inside your fenders, so you want it snug up against the hems on both sides.



How long should it be? I cut out my section, cleaned it up, and measured it to be about 4" long, so there's your Atelier BKM©, YMMV. File off all sharp edges, round the corners a bit, and feather the leading and trailing edges a bit.

My fenders attach directly to a seat stay fender bridge, so there's a hole through the fender attaching it. I'm going to use this to clamp the spliced rear part of the fender to the front.

Optional
_____________________________________
Compass sells a "rinko nut" as an alternative.


Picture courtesy Compass Cycles with added text by me

With the rinko nut option, the front half of the rear fender stays attached firmly to the bike. Look closely and you'll see that the rear already has a splice piece installed. This splice is rounded to a large radius - I've found that to be unnecessary, just round them slightly and it'll work. If it gets bent up on the edges, you can always trim it back. Also notice there's a hole in the fender for the rinko screw, and another one hidden by that centerpull brake that attaches the front half of the rear fender permanently to the fender bridge.

___________________________________
Back to my method (copied mostly from Peter Weigle)

Rather than put two holes into the fenders, one for the fender stay and one for the rinko attachment, I get double duty out of one bolt.

First you need to split your rear fender. Measure back about 1" from the fender attachment and draw a line there. I used tape to protect the rest of the fender from an errant hack saw. Two colors of tape make a sharp, straight line, as shown below:



Carefully cut straight along the line.

File both edges flat, and remove sharp edges inside and out. I found that one of those soft, padded nail files works well on thin aluminum metal, as it can form to curves, nooks and crannies.

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Last edited by gugie; 08-26-18 at 11:42 AM.
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Old 08-26-18, 12:02 PM
  #11  
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Rinko, continued

Now it's time to use that splice piece you made earlier. Slide your splice piece up into the rear part of the fender, about a couple of inches. Slide the two fender parts together and mark where the splice hits the fender attachment bolt. If everything's perfect, it'll be dead center on the fender. Real life, however, is seldom so perfect. We're going to slot the splice piece so the bolt is snug in the slot.


note: I realized I didn't have a picture of this step. You see two rivets that I haven't written about yet. Imagine they're not there at this point!

Remove the splice piece, file the slot, and round the entry of the slot (to make it easier to enter) and also the bottom of the slot (to eliminate a stress riser that could lead to a crack).



Yeah, I know, the bottom of the slot isn't rounded yet. I did that later, forgot to take a picture.

Threads on the bolt can easily catch on the slot, so I filed them off near the head. Alternatively you could use a shoulder bolt, but I didn't have a real short one.




Filed down near the head
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Old 08-26-18, 12:42 PM
  #12  
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As always, very nice work, seems like a button head would be worth sourcing.
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Old 08-26-18, 02:53 PM
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Rinko, continued some more

Slide the splice into the loosened screw and tighten it down. Push the rear half into the splice as far as it will go. Check to make sure there is no gap in the fender, and tape the two halves together tight. Note that I also added a washer here. It's "pre-bent" to match the fender curvature.



from up top



from down below


I'll use epoxy to permanently attach the splice piece. Out of an abundance of caution, I also want a couple of small rivets for a good mechanical connection. If you don't have a rivet gun, you can use some small screws and nuts. Button heads would look nice. Check alignment of the front and rear again. Make sure there is no gap between the two fender pieces, and the edges line up perfectly. Adjust as necessary. Mark the rivet/screw holes on either side, making sure that the hole will pass through the splice piece as well. Center punch and drill the holes, using a bit that makes for a snug rivet or screw fit. Dry fit everything together.



I think I'm off center just a tiny bit. You'll do better.

Remove the rivets/screw and the splice. Double check all of the edges for sharp edges and file/sand off. Use an oversize drill bit to chamfer the rivet/screw holes if needed. This is your last chance before epoxying the splice into the rear fender half. Clean and degrease the splice and underneath the fender where they'll epoxy together. I used isopropyl alcohol and a clean rag. Mark where the splice will end in the fender, and mark where the splice will end. We'll want to know where to put the epoxy, and where not to put it. A piece of tape will work nicely for a "stop" line.

I used a two-part epoxy specifically made to join metals together. There's a lot of 'em out there. Find something that doesn't cure too fast - 1 minute cure time is too fast, you're not in a hurry here. Follow instructions, wear gloves, and mix a goodly amount of epoxy. Spread it on the inside of the fender and topside of splice up the the lines you marked in the last step. The key is to wet both surfaces, it doesn't have to be very thick.

Slide the splice piece into the rear half of the fender and match up the rivet/screw holes. Insert the rivets/screws, but leave them loose for now. You may find that some of the epoxy will ooze into the holes, clean them out quickly, then insert the rivets or screws. Clean up any epoxy that may have oozed out onto the exposed part of the splice. Mate the front and rear halves together, tighten the fender bridge bolt, re-insert the rivets/screws, and now use your rivet gun or nuts and washers to lock the pieces mechanically together. If you're using screws and nuts, don't worry if a bit of epoxy gets on the threads - it'll be permanent anyway.

At this point if there's any extra epoxy between the rear half and the front, or on the splice where you don't want it, disaster will occur. You will have split your fenders and epoxied them back together permanently! To avoid this possibility, unscrew the fender bridge bolt and pull the two now finished halves apart so the epoxy can cure without locking them together. Clean up any excess epoxy as necessary. It may be easier just to let it all cure then file or sand it off.



After the epoxy cures completely, check for any extra under or above the fender. Sand as much of the excess that you can get to.

Double check your fitment as shown below:

Voila!



Now the rear part of your fender can come off easily. For some bike racks, this will come in handy. It will also make it easier to fit in the back of a car - remove the rear wheel and fender and you'll find your bike will fit in the back of a hatchback without damage to the fender. Of course, if you're flying with your fendered bike,

I know there are articles that explain this, but haven't found any that give all the steps, or extra clues that might help a first time rinko converter. I also didn't include anything about dealing with brake cables, and those that don't use downtube shifters, derailleur cables as well. Removing the front fork complete with the fender and rack (for you rando types) will help break down your bike to fit into a case without damaging the front fender as well. I hope that this helps those that might find use for rinko - the adaptation you make to travel with your fendered bike.
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Old 08-26-18, 04:10 PM
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Outstanding work and the accompanying write up!
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Old 08-27-18, 05:17 AM
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Neat. I'm stuck on two things, though. First, you were able to find two colors of tape, but not your Dremel? Second, I don't recall seeing a parts kit in the Box o Crap you just shipped to me.

Really, quite nice. I look forward to detailed description of the test of the rinko process.
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Old 08-27-18, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by nlerner View Post
So will the previous version heretofore be known as the Pete Best era?
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Old 08-27-18, 06:03 AM
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This guy did a rinko cut on the bottom of his front fender...
ipernity: Rinko: Detachable Lower Front Fender by A W
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Old 08-27-18, 08:22 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by smontanaro View Post
Neat. I'm stuck on two things, though. First, you were able to find two colors of tape, but not your Dremel? Second, I don't recall seeing a parts kit in the Box o Crap you just shipped to me.

Really, quite nice. I look forward to detailed description of the test of the rinko process.
Yeah, and guess what? After I was done I found my Dremel cutoff wheel buried in the workbench (typical, eh?)

If you're interested in a chunk of fender, PM me.

Originally Posted by bwilli88 View Post
This guy did a rinko cut on the bottom of his front fender...
ipernity: Rinko: Detachable Lower Front Fender by A W
Yeah, saw that one as well. Neat solution to the "my fenders don't play well with my bike rack" dilemma.
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Old 08-27-18, 09:57 AM
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Great stuff, @gugie. I only had a vague idea of how the attachment worked before.
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Old 08-27-18, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
Great stuff, @gugie. I only had a vague idea of how the attachment worked before.
There are enough pictures on the internet to figure it out. I merely put it all together, added a few more pics and some commentary.
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Old 08-27-18, 10:26 AM
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I'd just take the fender off and take it as a carry-on.
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Old 08-27-18, 03:09 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by USAZorro View Post
I'd just take the fender off and take it as a carry-on.
It's a pain in the rear getting metal fenders set up just right. If I had to take them off and redo them, I think I'd shoot myself! 5 minutes on and off with Rinko, a few hours completely on/off.
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Old 08-27-18, 03:18 PM
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There's velcro fenders for that... joking...

Cool and interesting fabrication. If anyone doesn't own a rivet tool, they should get one. Once you have one you quickly find all sorts of things can be riveted, even things that don't need them.

Actually, a rinko bike would would have been pretty useful to have when I lived in San Francisco and didn't have a car. Of course you can take a regular bike on BART and the ferries, so access to the surrounding countryside was pretty easy, except to the south. Caltrain was never that bike friendly. But overall yeah, as mentioned, the fenders are unnecessary, at least on a sport bike.

FWIW I can get my Nuovo Bluemel SKS fender on or off in 5 minutes on my Mercian. They were tedious to get on the first time, but once set up, they just kind of stay set up. It's amazing how useful dedicated brazed on fender mounts are. Metal fenders are, as mentioned, more difficult to get on and off.
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Old 08-27-18, 03:25 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Salamandrine View Post
There's velcro fenders for that... joking...

Cool and interesting fabrication. If anyone doesn't own a rivet tool, they should get one. Once you have one you quickly find all sorts of things can be riveted, even things that don't need them.

Actually, a rinko bike would would have been pretty useful to have when I lived in San Francisco and didn't have a car. Of course you can take a regular bike on BART and the ferries, so access to the surrounding countryside was pretty easy, except to the south. Caltrain was never that bike friendly. But overall yeah, as mentioned, the fenders are unnecessary, at least on a sport bike.
In the Bay Area, you pretty much don't need fenders. If it rains, you take a day off.
Caltrain was pretty easy for bikes when I was there, moved about 5 years ago. As long as you didn't care if your bike got scratched, it works pretty well. I don't now how crowded the bike cars are now, sometimes during commute hours if you got on in Mt. View - Palo Alto sometimes there'd be no more room and you'd have to wait for the next train. Alternatively, you could just ride down or up to a stop that you could get on.

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Old 08-27-18, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by gugie View Post
It's a pain in the rear getting metal fenders set up just right. If I had to take them off and redo them, I think I'd shoot myself! 5 minutes on and off with Rinko, a few hours completely on/off.
I am selectively OCD, and the line in the fender would drive me nuts. I figure 8 pieces of tape to mark positions on the stays and I only have a 10 minute penalty. All hypothetical, since I've never broken down a bike to ship to myself.
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