robertj298 

I would like some recommendations. I would like a bike thats is fairly lightweight and fast. I don't need
a bike that will carry a large amount of items, just the usual day trip items.

mrv 

What do you consider light weight? 24 lbs? Maybe a Schwinn Prelude.
27lbs? Maybe a Schwinn World Sport.
Schwinn catalogs, 1981 - 1990 (311 of 456)
Schwinn catalogs, 1981 - 1990 (312 of 456)
- You can get a complete bike for less that $200.
- It'll be almost the same as most steel touring bikes you get today.
An old Trek or steel whatever will work too.

Homebrew01

Cannondale "ST" from the 1980s if you can find one.

squirtdad

If you are only doing day trips.and can carry what you need in jersey pockets and or a largish seat bag, this is not a touring frame but would be fast and is in for sale section . No idea of what your size is

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...pert-58cm.html

robertj298 

Already have one lol

CliffordK

What are your needs?

Tire size?
Cargo Capacity?

I really like my old Colnago C40. Lightweight with classic lines.



This was from the latest trip northward. Yeah, it ended up with trailer duty

I've been using a small backpack for most of my riding, but will probably work on a seat bag and frame bag shortly. Perhaps a handlebar bag, but I'm not sure if I'll go with that yet.

RobbieTunes 

1984 Klein Performance.


Yeah, I should get fenders, we'll see. I'll likely go with shorties. Still working on a solution to the front lighting.

It's pretty light to begin with, 23 lbs before the baggage. That's light by touring standards. Shimano PD-A600 SPD's so I can walk in my Giro Republic shoes....

I hope for the light touring to begin in late fall and the learning curve will be this winter, as I take Sat/Sun trips of 100 miles each way, beginning with hotel stays and then eventually camping over. I'll expand to Fri/Sat/Sun trips eventually, and then use vacation time as it comes to see about some longer trips.

This model is limited by it's shifter mounts, bottom bracket, FD mounting, and a host of other issues. I'd recommend a Cannondale ST model.

Or, a Centurion Lemans or Lemans RS. Clearance, eyelets, and go-quickly pedigree. They were often raced in the 80's, but can commute or light tour easily.

Andy_K 

</thread>

gugie 

You're going to get as many opinions as members in this forum. One way to filter them down is to figure out what you can get locally. Best way to do that is to post your location, you'd be surprised how many of us would race to Craigslist and give you lots of suggestions.

cyclophilia 

Please let us know your frame size and your definition of "light weight" so that we can provide more informed options.

Thanks!

robertj298 

Location N.W. Ohio. 25 lbs or less. 56-58 m.m. size

jjames1452 

Kona Kapu. The older frame with beautiful lugs . 853 Steel. It is awesome on long rides. I have ridden it on two TOSRV's.

jjames1452 

Have you ever thought of riding the Young's Jersey Dairy Ride to Ohio Northern?

cb400bill

This one is in Toldeo. Trek 620.

https://toledo.craigslist.org/bik/d/...671489847.html

wrk101

bwilli88 

Centurion Pro-tour, I have 2, for fast lightweight get earlier than 83 for good steady riding any of them. 83 and before had stud mounted centerpull brakes.

Once you start adding items it can get heavier quick.
Brooks saddle
front rack
Randoneer bag
Tools bag
And the tools and spare tube
Extra lights
Bell, just because it is fun to ring it at odd times while riding
Spokes, because you think you might break one...
And since you think you will be breaking spokes, why not extra brake and gear cables.
Since you are traveling so far and might fall, a nice first-aid kit.
Next thing it is 32 pounds

Lascauxcaveman 

Another vote for Cannondale ST, if the bike must be under 25 lbs. Even then. you'll want to get a fairly light set of wheels.

Shady Rascal

As most questions, the correct answer is often "Centurion".



But it is distracting, all of the ladies trying to flag me down when they see me riding it. It's just the burden that we Centurion owners have the bear.

USAZorro

Four times I have attempted (and come up short) to put those three attributes together (fast, light & touring). In my case, what I wanted was a bike that would serve me well on the longer brevets that I aspired to someday ride.

First attempt was a Miyata 210. It had most of the braze-ons I wanted, but also lacked a couple. It was very stable, but not "fast" or "nimble", and even before I put any racks on it, was already heavy.

Second attempt was a new Surly LHT that I built up to my own specs. This did have all the braze-ons I wanted, and also had indexed bar-cons, vice the friction shifting that I had on the Miyata. It was also stable, not fast, and heavy.

Third attempt, was made after recognizing that any actual "touring" bike's geometry would be "stable", rather than somewhat "nimble", I attempted to fit out my 1972 Fuji Finest, which unloaded is a good compromise of stable and nimble, though entirely lacking in fittings for racks, bottle cages and fenders. It also has 120mm rear spacing and has an original finish that is just a bit too nice to justify sending out to be adapted. By the time all the p-clamps and such were added, it was closing in on being heavy, and with the rear rack and 10 pounds of stuff in the trunk rack, it didn't handle confidently.

Fourth attempt was with a 1959 Viking Severn Valley that had been refinished, had a couple bottle cage fittings and had the rear spread to 130mm. It was also a couple cm on the large size for me. It didn't turn out much differently than the Fuji, with the exception that it had a better range of indexed gearing.

My point in illustrating these efforts that all proved unsatisfactory in some form, is that in order to get things just right (which I hope I'm very soon to experience with a project that I've put a lot of thought and effort - and some $ - into), you need to be very clear in your mind about exactly what you want. I found out the hard way that, no matter the size or weight, a true "touring" bike isn't what I wanted. I also realized that compromising on the gearing isn't negotiable for me, and compromising on the fittings only means that things either won't be as securely fastened as they need to be, or that the bike will get heavier from adding hardware to compensate.

You will get a lot of opinions based on collective centuries of experience here, and a lot of what could be good advice, but the details of what you want for the end result really need to be put up front, or there's a serious risk that you'll get something very nice that isn't quite what you really want.

KonAaron Snake 

Basically any Japanese road, non-pure racing, bike from the 80s/early 90s fits this bill with aplomb, and they're versatile enough platforms to dial in to your preference with a few parts changes and adjustments. Which one depends on your budget. I'm a fan of the Panasonic DX series, the Miyata 9xx series and some of the Lotus bikes like the cyclone.

shoota 

What's the max tire clearance on this frame?

Andy_K 

clubman 

Cannondale T is just fine as well. I had mine on more than a couple of spirited rides.

shoota 

Thanks for the info, very helpful.

ollo_ollo

See the "Show Your Grand Jubile" thread for some possibilities, great ride, ornate beauty, can be light weight if you build without fenders and choose light weight wheels, but the closer you get to "Touring" the heavier it will get. Usually 25-26 pounds in tru "touring" mode. Don