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Peugeot PX10LE?

Old 10-04-18, 07:08 PM
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Peugeot PX10LE?










I'm trying to match my recently acquired Peugeot to the USA Catalogs on bikeboompeugeot and the closest match I can find is the 1979 Super Competition PX10LE. But, the top tube has only a "Comptetion" decal.

The specs check off but only thing that doesn't is the fully chromed fork on mine.

I haven't done any work to the bike but enjoy the ride. If it's not actually a PX10LE, I'm still happy I paid $160 for it. The seller said it was her grandma's bike

What do you guys think?
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Old 10-04-18, 07:45 PM
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PKN10? The full chrome fork is throwing me, along with the crank, but the frame does say "Competition".

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Old 10-04-18, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Hudson308 View Post
PKN10? The full chrome fork is throwing me, along with the crank, but the frame does say "Competition".
I was thinking PKN10 as well but along with crank and fork, the brakes are Mafac center pull labeled as Peugeot and not Weinman. But, thanks.

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Old 10-05-18, 02:17 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by Mr_Asifi View Post


I was thinking PKN10 as well but along with crank and fork, the brakes are Mafac center pull labeled as Peugeot and not Weinman. But, thanks.
Angled 531 decal above shifters normally means PX10 of some sort :-)

Nice colour ! Enjoy the ride
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Old 10-05-18, 02:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 1simplexnut View Post
Angled 531 decal above shifters normally means PX10 of some sort :-)

Nice colour ! Enjoy the ride
Nice colour ! Enjoy the ride[/QUOTE]
​​​​​​​+1 on the angled 531 decal.....
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Old 10-05-18, 03:45 AM
  #6  
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Yes, not a PK. Sloppy day with the decals at the factory I think. A PX10 LE. Circa 1980.
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Old 10-05-18, 06:11 AM
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I'm leaning heavily towards a mislabeled PXN10LE Super Competition. During this era the full Reynolds 531 models did not have eyelets on the dropouts, whereas the PK10 variants, with their lower grade stays and forks, had dropout eyelets. Also, the Reynolds 531 forks used a different, higher grade crown. Since the OP's bicycle has the higher grade fork crown and does not have eyelet dropouts, I strongly suspect the applied model name is incorrect. The full chrome fork is probably a change made after the catalogue was issued. The serial number will tell us the exact build date.
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Old 10-05-18, 06:24 AM
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Assuming the Reynolds 531 sticker and the fork are original, it indeed is a PX-10 Super Competition, and T-Mar's suggestion regarding rear dropout eyelets is another strong clue.

My 1980 PKN-10 (rear dropout eyelets, half-chrome fork, non-diagonal Reynolds "3 tubes renforces" sticker) was a great bike, but I can attest to sloppy workmanship of that era -- everything from decal placement to brazing voids and splatter.
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Old 10-05-18, 08:10 AM
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Especially that this bike's unusual crankset/chainrings is the exact 1980 PX10E item that would be hard to find, and that the shifters are Retrofriction, just adds to the complete PX10E picture.

I hesitate to be too critical of Peugeot's QC in these likely cash-strapped years, and it's nothing like the sort of issues that came out of the Carlton factory in 1973.
A decal swap done to get a shipment of bikes out the door when the SC decals perhaps ran short could have been a well-considered and reasonable decision, and makes the OP's bike somewhat the proverbial "sleeper".

I also have to give Peugeot credit for developing their lugless construction methods used later on their lesser models, which saved enough weight to allow these 501/Carbolite-tubed bikes to compete on weight terms with this premium PX10E model (I weighed them recently and they are VERY close), and which might have kept them in the game for a few more years before profit losses resulted in severe declines in production numbers.

These models from the 80's have angles near 74-degrees (on frames in the 58cm size range) and are sprightly performers.
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Old 10-05-18, 09:53 AM
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Thanks everyone!

Going to clean and overhaul what's needed soon. I love the colors but can't look at the bike long because of the saddle and handlebars. Both are comfortable but almost too comfortable.

I'm not too picky about having the original saddle, seatpost, stem, and handlebars. I'm probably going to go with a used Brooks B17 in black and...not sure about stem and handlebars but definitely something not so wide as they are right now.
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Old 10-05-18, 09:57 AM
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Great find and great color. The bar and stem will be 25.0 and 22.0 respectively. The PO likely modified the stem to fit. Not a big deal but something you need to be aware of. You can sand down a 22.2 stem to fit and there are 22.2 stems that sometimes drop right in (Origin 8 stems usually work and don't look too bad on a vintage bike; nitto stems are supposed to work sometimes as well).
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Old 11-12-18, 05:26 PM
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Some Picture Updates


Still have a good amount of work left but just happy to have replaced the handlebars, stem, and saddle (Brooks Swift on the way)

Noticed there was a dent in the top tube. Not too bothered by it


Still a beginner with taping. Was originally going to use brown leather tape but I like how this turned out


Found the handlebar at a garage sale and the stem I had laying around at home.


This was my first fixed cup that I had to give up on

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Old 11-12-18, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr_Asifi View Post

Take a look at this setup, you will never have to give up ever again.


















This was my first fixed cup that I had to give up on
Never failed, never damaged any tools, cups, rings or frames.
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Old 11-12-18, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by merziac View Post
Never failed, never damaged any tools, cups, rings or frames.
Ingenious. Constantly learning in these forums
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Old 11-12-18, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr_Asifi View Post


Ingenious. Constantly learning in these forums
Tx, the beauty is that when you already have the special tools, the rest are common and easy with many options.
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Old 11-12-18, 09:24 PM
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Old 11-13-18, 04:56 AM
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Do you want to remove the fixed cup to replace or just to clean? Make sure you are spinning the right way as it is a French bike.

Take your bottom bracket wrench and put it in the workstand or vise. Hold the frame, insert the bottom bracket cup into the wrench and turn the frame, using it for leverage instead of holding the wrench. This method has yet to fail me.
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Old 11-13-18, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Narhay View Post
Do you want to remove the fixed cup to replace or just to clean?
Thanks!

I just wanted to remove the cup because it's easier to clean and repack. But in the future if I need to replace the bottom bracket, I know have several options/techniques.
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Old 11-14-18, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post


Another good setup, except for the hammer even if it is a deadblow. No need for a hammer when a lever (cheater bar, pipe, etc) can be used.
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