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Should I respace this hub a bit or go w/7sp?

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View Poll Results: What should I do about hub spacing here?
It's perfect, don't change a thing
0
0%
Respace the hub to reduce dish when the wheel is built
2
100.00%
Don't respace the hub, but instead use a 7sp f/w
0
0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 2. You may not vote on this poll

Should I respace this hub a bit or go w/7sp?

Old 10-16-18, 08:47 AM
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Should I respace this hub a bit or go w/7sp?

I'm going to use a set of Specialized medium flange hubs on my Griffon. I've had them since new in the early 80s when they came on a Trek 760. I'm almost 100% certain I had a six-speed SunTour freewheel on the back. (I don't think seven-speed was available at that point, or at least not widely available.) The hubs have been patiently waiting their next shot at glory for about ten years. I measured the hubs to feed into the Edd spoke calculator. I came up with flange-to-center measurements of 17.8mm (right) and 34.1mm (left). I went to the calculator and saw that it already has an entry for this hub. It gives 28mm left and 22mm right. This makes me wonder if I should move some spacers around or look for a seven-speed freewheel (no sense wasting space?)

I tossed a six-speed Regina Extra freewheel on the hub and inserted it into the dropouts. The freewheel is ~31mm from the inside of the large cog to the outside of the small cog. I don't think a seven-speed freewheel will be more than one or two mm wider since it will be narrow spaced, so I think it will fit. There's about 5mm between the outer surface of the small cog and the lock nut.

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Old 10-16-18, 09:05 AM
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Unless I'm mistaken, that's a 7speed freewheel in the pic, so it should be fine with a seven speed freewheel.
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Old 10-16-18, 09:43 AM
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Well, duh. I can't count. (In my own defense, I'm home sick today.)
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Old 10-16-18, 10:11 AM
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7 speed freewheel are the bomb. You could replace a little to get less dish and still have 7 speeds.
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Old 10-16-18, 11:19 AM
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Since you already have the 7 speed freewheel on the hub, I don't see why you wouldn't use that.

8-speed????

Is the hub spaced properly for your dropouts?

Personally I'd move the whole thing to the right slightly, so that the gap between the smallest sprocket and the frame is small enough that the chain can't fall between the last sprocket and the frame.
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Old 10-16-18, 01:07 PM
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@CliffordK you are correct, I can't count (or forgot to, or didn't bother to). I didn't think I had a seven-speed f/w in the drawer, so I wasn't even thinking to count. I suppose I could use a little remedial Sesame Street:


The problem with is particular freewheel (even if it was a six-speed), is that the large cog is only 18, and I have no use for a 12T small cog (52-42 rings up front). I do have a 12-28 six-speed. I don't have suitable cogs for each of the particular positions to turn the two of them into a 12-28 seven-speed. I'm looking into that, but would probably have to buy three or four cogs to make that work. It would be about $100 (vs ~$30 for a new -- though a bit ugly -- Shimano 13-28). Plus, I would never use the 12T small cog anyway.

The hub has the correct OLD for the frame (126-ish for both). Good point about moving things a bit to the right to reduce the chance of jamming the chain into the gap. In any case, I won't mess with spacing until I settle on the actual freewheel I'm going to use.
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Old 10-16-18, 01:25 PM
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Moving it 1 to 2 mm to the right will also help a bit with your dishing. Source your freewheel first as they aren't all the same.

Any chance you will be happy with off-center (asymmetric) rims (Aerohead, A23, DT?, & etc)? They do make building with the 126mm spacing easier.
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Old 10-16-18, 01:54 PM
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@CliffordK Thanks, I'll be going with tubulars. I have a nice set of Ambrosio Montreal Durex rims and Veloflex Vlaanderen tubulars.
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Old 10-17-18, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 52telecaster
7 speed freewheel are the bomb. You could replace a little to get less dish and still have 7 speeds.
+1, that's what I'd do.
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