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Thoughts on a cold weather classic/vintage bicycle

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Thoughts on a cold weather classic/vintage bicycle

Old 12-19-18, 05:28 AM
  #26  
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I concur that it is tough to beat a rigid MTB for a winter all rounder. Add in some studded tires and you can cover ground in all but deep snow.

That said, I usually go with the narrowest tire that is workable for the conditions. Prefer speed when I can get it.

Sometimes non-c&v frame materials are better for riding hard and putting away wet.
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Old 12-19-18, 06:10 AM
  #27  
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I'd say it all depends on the road surface. If there is no snow or ice just about any road bike that you are normally comfortable riding will do. With snow or ice around your tire choices will be different.

I have two bikes dedicated to commuting. The Bianchi has a hub generator and LED lights for getting home in the dark. The Raleigh carries fenders for wet weather though I don't always choose it for damp/wet commuting, and a bottle generator and LED lights. Once the snow starts I stop bike-commuting. But otherwise I'll bike through temperatures in the 20's. When it gets below about 20 my eyes start complaining. But the bikes don't care.
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Old 01-24-19, 04:24 PM
  #28  
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Insulated ski helmet and goggles are excellent.

Anyways, this crossed my mind today. Long pants would help, too. lol

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Old 01-24-19, 04:31 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by crank_addict View Post
Anyways, this crossed my mind today. Long pants would help, too. lol

What happens if you get an itch... somewhere...?

(Not to mention it makes hand signals a little tricky. Is there a reason he's leaning against a minivan?
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Old 01-24-19, 04:34 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
What happens if you get an itch... somewhere...?

(Not to mention it makes hand signals a little tricky. Is there a reason he's leaning against a minivan?
You ask too many questions. I was only referring to those red shoes. ;"\
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Old 01-24-19, 05:07 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by crank_addict View Post
I was only referring to those red shoes. ;"\
They look like they'd melt any snow/ice on the way ahead just by being there.....
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Old 01-24-19, 05:49 PM
  #32  
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What about an all-chrome atb, like those made by Ross? Or would the chrome succumb to the salt and ice just as quickly.
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Old 01-24-19, 06:19 PM
  #33  
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Snow I will ride in but we don’t get any...much. Ice no, no, no. Learned last year with a hard slam to the road which left me with a now permanent damaged wrist.

i have also built many winter bikes only to upgrade them so much as to not want to take them out in the salt roads.
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Old 01-24-19, 06:49 PM
  #34  
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Wide tires and hub brakes (disc or drum). Early mountainbikes come to mind and the very common (around here) 3-speed upright bike with drum brakes.
70mm ones have less brake power than discs, but then again they will last you several winters without any maintenance whatsoever while discs can start eating through pads in melting snow.
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Old 01-24-19, 06:52 PM
  #35  
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I put together a studded tire single speed based on a previously dented and rusted 90's DiamondBack mountain bike. The studded tires are heavy and slow, but the the bike is for safely getting some exercise no matter what the weather is doing.
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Old 01-24-19, 06:54 PM
  #36  
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Issues I've experienced:
--bluemels fenders shatter in the cold...
--Water turns to ice under metal fenders and eventually stop the wheel turning...
--Water bottles freeze solid...
--Little cans of V8 juice may not freeze, but will give you brain freeze like you never imagined...
--brain freeze lasts way longer than you ever thought it could...
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Old 01-24-19, 07:10 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by jimmuller View Post
I'd say it all depends on the road surface. If there is no snow or ice just about any road bike that you are normally comfortable riding will do. With snow or ice around your tire choices will be different.
We have the occasional ice & snow. Often, if I go out early enough, the bike paths are a mixture of "black ice" or accumulated pools of refrozen water. If there is snow on the ground, the bike paths will also be covered in snow, and I usually do not ride.
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Old 01-24-19, 09:09 PM
  #38  
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I ride in the winter but not a lot of snow in the Willamette valley . The current winter ride , sometimes I switch between the 520 and my Surly .

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Old 01-24-19, 09:25 PM
  #39  
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My atb commuter gets used year round for sure (no snow around here though). For faster, longer, more "serious" winter rides, i use my surly cross check. Lots of clearance, and it's just a cross check so who cares? It's not like i'm destroying a rare classic and if i somehow manage to wreck it the framesets pop up for dirt cheap pretty frequently. It may be worth more than my "summer" schwinn roadie but i don't care about it as much!
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Old 01-25-19, 05:17 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by JaccoW View Post
Wide tires and hub brakes (disc or drum). Early mountainbikes come to mind and the very common (around here) 3-speed upright bike with drum brakes.
70mm ones have less brake power than discs, but then again they will last you several winters without any maintenance whatsoever while discs can start eating through pads in melting snow.
That looks to me like the right kind of machine! I use a 1952 Raleigh Sport: 35mm tyres; 4-speed hub; steel chaincase and lighting from an SA Dynohub. The only real problem is that even Koolstop salmon pads do not stop steel rims well in the wet, and they squeal. I should probably be looking for a SA AG (Dyno/3-speed hub) and front hub brake.
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Old 01-25-19, 07:13 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by gilesa View Post
That looks to me like the right kind of machine! I use a 1952 Raleigh Sport: 35mm tyres; 4-speed hub; steel chaincase and lighting from an SA Dynohub. The only real problem is that even Koolstop salmon pads do not stop steel rims well in the wet, and they squeal. I should probably be looking for a SA AG (Dyno/3-speed hub) and front hub brake.
A full chaincase is certainly an advantage, and upright riding is probably safer in slippery conditions. I would prefer a rear hub brake though, if the front wheel locks up in slippery conditions it's very difficult not to fall, a rear wheel lock-up isn't much of a problem. I've got a simular roadster, a Gazelle with rod operated 90 mm drum brakes which are connected, but I can adjust the brake balance by screws on the brake lever at the drum. I've set it to lock the rear wheel first. There has been snow and ice the last few days and the rear wheel has already locked up a few times. I've managed to fit 47mm tyres, only just, mainly for looks and comfort and my habit of not regularly using a pump, but I didn't notice much difference on the snow and ice. It probably works better but it's difficult to judge.
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Old 01-25-19, 07:52 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by gilesa View Post
That looks to me like the right kind of machine! I use a 1952 Raleigh Sport: 35mm tyres; 4-speed hub; steel chaincase and lighting from an SA Dynohub. The only real problem is that even Koolstop salmon pads do not stop steel rims well in the wet, and they squeal. I should probably be looking for a SA AG (Dyno/3-speed hub) and front hub brake.
Agreed. This concept seems rather practical and bulletproof. Mud guards, IGH, chain case, disc brakes, capable of wide tires, all checked off. The only concern is keeping the steel parts free of corrosive residue. Mount some lights and whatever racks you might need, and go for it, Downsize wheels to 559's for more tire options and more clearance if you wish - with disc brakes, it won't matter...

Will vintage wintercross commuters become the new gravel bikes?
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Old 01-25-19, 08:13 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by The Golden Boy View Post
I'd just go for a CrMo ATB- get studded tires and ride.

I don't do the winter riding thing anymore- a few years ago, I went out- hit this trail- there was a light dusting of snow. As I'm trucking along- I hit a patch of ice- my bike flies out from underneath me, I land in a snow bank on the side of the path. Truth be told, it was fun!!! I got on the bike rode another 50 meters or so, my bike slides out- and instead of a snow bank, I land on the ice. Not so fun. Brushed myself off and continued on- after a couple other similar wipeouts, it became very un-fun. I think I walked my bike back to the "safe" area of the trail. I had a lot of trouble just moving for the next few weeks- that may have been the last time I got on a bike in winter.

Based on my experience, I wouldn't do it without studded tires.

Absolutely. Here's my solution:






Hardtail classic Barracuda MTB with studded tires and fenders.




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Old 01-25-19, 07:25 PM
  #44  
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I remember reading about the first mountainbikes being balloon tyre bikes with drum brakes. They often had reinforced forks and larger drums fitted.


The drums were used with larger motorcycle levers that provided more leverage (regular short-pull levers nor direct pull work all that well).

One of those with fat tyres and some fenders would work great in hilly areas.

Further reading:
- The Hippie Daredevils Who Were Just Crazy Enough to Invent Mountain Biking - Collectorsweekly.com
- Were drum brakes ever fitted to a stock MTB? - Bikeforums.net @Airburst
- Clunkers.net a history of mountainbikes
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Old 01-27-19, 04:38 PM
  #45  
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Dude in our neighborhood has a Kona with a "klunker" style frame like that. Rides it everywhere, in all conditions.

Somebody had one of those Barracuda A2Bs on Kenosha CL back in the fall. Awesome, unique graphics; I woulda grabbed it if it were closer.
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Old 02-06-19, 07:13 PM
  #46  
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Well, these have been a few interesting days. From the deep freeze -20s to a balmy +30 gets us to the edge of rain to freeze and ice storms. Fixed at night is a whole new challenge. Actually its not bad as I first encountered white knuckle gripped. Lowered the pressure on 32mm width semi slicks and slightly relaxed myself. Straights are fine but any corners at intersections and I tend to stiffen. Skidding on a fixed is also much easier ;×)

Pretty scenery

*
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Old 02-07-19, 01:10 PM
  #47  
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Cheap = unloved, used hard tail

Wet = sealed bearing everywhere

Wet = aluminum rims (accept no others)

Snow = tires with treads (not necessarily knobbies)

Wet = internally geared hub (3, 7, 8 and 14 speeds are available).

Upright riding = Brooks B67 saddle or similar

An older mountain bike will get you all of the above at a low price, except for the IGH. That is up to you to customize.

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Old 02-07-19, 01:42 PM
  #48  
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Winter day

I started riding more this winter in wet and snowy conditions. I really like it!

Closer shot after cleaning


About a week ago, Bethany Beach DE
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Old 02-08-19, 02:02 AM
  #49  
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No problem on a very stable tourer, especially if it's (mostly) aluminum with fenders battling the elements, and salt. I changed from 32mm Conti Ultra Races to a new pair of WTB Cross Wolf 32mm tires. CX knobbies so not too lumpy/buzzy a ride at all, and at 55-60 PSI, take the snow and snow-ish stuff well. I don't mess with ice or icy-snow (the harder, packed version of snow) as I'm not looking to get another titanium elbow. We're slated for a good chunk of snowfall tomorrow through Saturday, which, if worse than five days ago, will freeze the city pretty good due to its extreme topography. I bought some beer, so I should be good for a couple of days...........

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Old 02-08-19, 07:01 AM
  #50  
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How about 2 wheel drive ?
I'd love to see how this does in the snow, but living in Florida, I probably never will ..........

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