Piff 

I'm trying to find the right bars for my Raleigh Supercourse. I've decided that I'm most interested in taking it on easy dirt trails and some relaxed road riding, but probably nothing beyond 30miles. Finding a handlebar<$60 for both has been difficult. I've got my eyes on a few, but was wondering if some members here might be interested in showing off their bikes that fill a similar purpose and also have swoopy handlebars.

Currently, the list includes this old wald handlebar on ebay


As well as the Velo Orange Milan (which is nearly identical to the wald but perhaps with less of a forward bump before the sweep back?)

The Wald version of a North Road handlebar is also a contender for the simple fact that it's a mere $15...but I'm unsure of its performance on trails given how much more angled the bars are. I think a bullmoose with barends would be the most fun...but would also be super expensive.

But I'd love to see some swoopy bars of yours! Thanks.

oddjob2

Wald bars are heavy chrome, built to take a licking and keep on ticking.

VO bars are polished aluminum and a fraction of the weight.

I bought 5 of these a year ago from bikewagon @ $4 each, but not likely a sale to be repeated.
Alico YCA-236 Alloy

canklecat

My '92 Univega Via Carisma has gone through three phases since I bought it in summer 2016. It's an old school mountain bike-lite, diamond frame, a little longer top tube compared with the seat tube. A hybrid.

It came with the original flat, slightly arced steel handlebar. With the upward angled quill stem that put the bar grip at about saddle height. At the time that was too extreme for me -- I was still recovering from neck and back injuries and years of inactivity. Besides the relatively low bar, the reach on this frame is a bit long.

So I swapped to slight riser bars. These were swiped from a Globe Carmel comfort hybrid, and the flat bar from the Univega went to the Globe. Perfect for each. The Globe needed the slightly longer reach, and the Univega now had slightly shorter reach.

The riser bar (about 1 and 1/2" rise) and slight backsweep was a good compromise between comfort and efficiency. I rode it this way for more than a year.

However on longer rides -- 30 or more miles a day -- my wrists would ache a bit. Same with the flat bar on either bike. Flat and riser bars are excellent for maneuverability at slow speeds, on gravel, etc., but not ideal for long distance comfort. The main problem with both flat (arced) and riser bars is the lack of hand positions. Bar end extensions attempt to resolve this issue, but clumsily.

Currently the Univega has a Nitto albatross bar. I swapped to that bar after I was hit by a car this spring, injuring my shoulder and aggravating an old neck injury. The albatross bar is perfect. I don't see myself going back to any other bar on this bike. After a few months I can't find anything to complain about.

The albatross bar handles and balances differently, so I needed some time and miles to adapt. Not a big problem.

It has at least three hand positions:

1. Grip, with brake levers under the fingers
2. A little farther forward, over the brake clamps -- a little more aerodynamic, brakes still readily accessible
3. In the forward arc (which can be lower if the bar is flipped) -- about as aero as drop bars, comfortable and efficient for climbing and headwinds
4. Some folks may put their hands closer to the stem but I have accessories mounted there on my bike

And I've switched from thumb shifters to some borrowed bar-end shifters, which I might keep. Only one ride so far and it was fine. Easier to maintain control and brake access, using the base of the palm or little and ring fingers to shift.

A friend who switched from flat and riser bars to swept bars prefers the narrower North Road style bars, flipped -- more aero. He trimmed a bit from the ends of the bars to avoid knocking his knees. No problem with the albatross bars, which flare a bit wider, and even with the bar-end shifters I have no problems with knee clearance.

With the bar angled down slightly to suit my wrists the grips are at saddle height. I tried flipping the albatross bar back in the summer but my shoulder hadn't healed enough to be comfortable. For now it's in the conventional upright position. I might try flipping or switching from the upward angled stem to a road bike stem with horizontal forward section. Either would get the grip a bit lower and more aero. Not a priority for me right now -- I'm also recovering from neck surgery. Maybe next spring.

The albatross and similar swept bars have some advantages. Besides being comfortable they're versatile enough for casual off road riding to maintain slow speed control, and aero enough to be useful for moderately fast road rides. They can be used with slip-on/clamp-on grips or wrapped like road bike drop bars. For now I'm using grips since I'm borrowing the bar and shifters and haven't settled on a final configuration.

I can also see another possibility for the albatross bar, North Roads or Velo Orange Belleville type bars -- a bit unusual but workable. Instead of installing brake levers on the swept back portion, install them on the forward portion where the rider would be for faster rides. Save the swept grip area for a more upright, relaxed and slower paced ride where it's less critical to have the brake levers immediately accessible. Pretty similar to the way many road bike riders use the forward, flat portion of the bar nearest the stem for grinding up hills. And it's possible both brake positions could be used, by installing interrupter levers nearest the stem, for folks who prefer ready access to brakes in any position.

For now I'm keeping the setup conventional. Brake levers at the swept back grips. I use the forward arc section only for solo rides for speed, climbing or into headwinds. In groups or traffic my hands are always on the grips. It's a little more upright, less aero, but very comfortable and I have better peripheral vision (stiff neck from the injuries I mentioned).

After I've settled on the bar and shifter setup I'll switch to better cables and housings, neaten up the loops to make room for a handlebar bag, and re-install the fenders and rear rack. The original front rack was a kludge, just a copy of the rear rack without any place to properly mount the long legs so it used ugly clamps. Eventually I'll get a proper front rack that uses the provided places on the fork.




Hands in conventional grip position, just over the brake levers.

*****



Hands a little forward, brake still accessible.

eom 

This is a handy site.

What Bars? The Bicycle Handlebar Database

beicster 

If you don't want to pay for a Nitto Albatross, the Soma Oxford is similar but not identical. I have had both and liked both of them. You can find both on the whatbars website that @eom posted above.

3speedslow

morri869 

What a fantastic website! I've always wanted a better way to compare handlebars.

eom 

I found this on the ibob list. Chip really made the internet useful. :0 You can see how it evolved.

https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=...0/gS8x9ITCCAAJ

bwilli88 

I got these off Ebay, IIRC I paid like $3. do a search for 680mm 25.4 riser bars.


73 SuperCourse Dingle speed

randyjawa 

I really like the bars I fitted to my Motobecane Grand Jubilee...


The bars are now tucked away in my man cave and the Motobe has found a new home, now fitted with drop bars, at the new owners request...

Clyde1820

I've got an lightly-used FSA Metropolis handlebar (styled similar to the Northroads type), if you're interested. They're normally $70, but PM me if you're looking for one at far less than that.

31.8mm clamp, 620mm width, 32mm rise (18° up sweep), with 48° back sweep, 300gr weight (fairly light), reasonably tough. Perfect for a "city" bike that does double-duty on some unpaved paths and trails.

Might or might not be sufficient rise or sweep for some folks, depending. Not enough rise for me, on my own bike and preferred riding position.

crank_addict

The budget priced Origin 8 Tiki bars are growing on me. Both steel and ally versions. Only offer two different hand positioning but allow enough body aero yet upright townie. Use as drop or inverted.

Only negative is the blasted finish. I sand them down to a satin finish. So far I have a steel version on my clunker fixie and the ally version on a single speed. Now considering a third set for a vintage lightweight multi speed and using bar end shifters.

Piff 

You've given me a lot to think about, I appreciate the long write up...I was worried that something like the north roads or albatross bars would lock me into a single position, but I guess there's at least a couple to mess around with. Interesting shifter positions, I guess it's necessary to move them by the stem in order to make use of the bar?

That is very useful, thank you. Always wanted something like this.

Very cool, thanks for the tip. I do seem to see a lot of posts from people enamored with the albatross bar.

I like them too! Some variation of North Roads?

Looked them up, still on sale but out of stock

Piff 

Argh, I'm using a old stem which won't fit a 31.8mm bar. Thanks though.

Interesting, almost like a mustache bar, almost like a lauterwasser bar, My back was injured by a masseuse a few years ago so I think I'll probably avoid it due to the larger forward sweep.

canklecat

That photo is from a few weeks ago. I'm attaching photos of the current incarnation.

Those stem shifters are SunRace SLM10 friction shifters, cheap but effective. I use them to test various handlebar setups because they're easy to mount anywhere and adjust.

I intended to switch back to the Univega's original Shimano STI indexed thumb shifters but both broke - common problem with some older Shimano indexed shifters. They could be overhauled but it's not worth the trouble.

So I borrowed some Shimano bar end shifters after friends recommended them. Only two rides so far but I like them. I'm using the right side bar end shifter in friction mode. Couldn't get the indexing right for the MicroShift 8-speed cassette I used to replace the original Shimano 7-speed. Friction works fine.

The new ergo grips have palm supports, which are very comfortable. No problems during a 25 mile ride last night.

The black and red doodad on the bar near the stem is the KLICKfix mount block for my handlebar bag. Used it last night to check the bike's balance and handling. Worked fine.

I recycled the original brake levers, which include now-empty mounting plates for the broken Shimano index shifters. I'm trying to figure out a way to mount my lights and video camera to those plates since they're sturdy with holes for bolts.

I plan to replace the original upward angled stem with a road bike stem to lower the handlebar an inch or so. I'll reroute the cables, including the front brake cable that loops over the handlebar. After I'm finished all cables will be routed under the bar. And I'm switching to blue cable housings to go with the Univega's black and blue splatter paint.

Nitto albatross handlebar on 1992 Univega Via Carisma, with Shimano bar end shifters. Not quite finished with this setup.

ramzilla

I used to get my personal favorite upright handlebars from Niagra. (But, they're out of business now). The words they used to describe the handlebars were: Dimension 25.4, 70mm Riser Bar, 50 degree sweep, Silver. These bars were lightweight alloy. And, they were pretty cheap. I think that I was paying somewhere between $20 - $30 bucks. Matter of fact, I usuallly paid more for a good upright stem than I did for the handlebars.

The Golden Boy 

canklecat

Here's another you might like -- I like it and haven't even bought one yet. But I'm considering hybridizing an older road bike to make a lightweight, quick cruiser for days when my neck and shoulder are bothering me. A friend did something similar with an older Trek road bike -- cruiser handlebar, Selle Anatomica saddle. Pretty sweet, very comfortable, about 5 lbs lighter than most hybrids.

It's the Velo Orange Porteur, in anodized black. Nice look for bikes that wouldn't look quite right with shiny chrome. Less rise than the albatross, plenty of knee room and arm width to avoid constricting the chest. And most swept bars can be trimmed to suit the owner, especially if bar end shifters are added. Still low and aero enough forward hand position to keep up with the local B-group or that faster friend who doesn't mind us drafting as long as we can keep up.

simmonsgc

Well, since no one has mentioned the Soma Sparrow so far (I think)...my wife really loves hers with thumbies.

And as mentioned earlier, the Soma Oxford is basically a 'poor man's albatross' in non-heat treated flexy aluminum.

simmonsgc

Amazing...sounds like you are describing the "Pinkasonic" build I did for a friend of mine a few years ago. Porteur (in silver), selle anatomica saddle, bar-ends, etc etc. Great minds! Porteurs have 15mm of rise or drop as I recall. She wanted 15mm of drop, as pictured below.

noglider 

I happen to like bars with a gentle sweep such as those Wald bars in the top post. Try them.

Salamandrine 

This is my upright sweepy bar bike. Perfect for rough roads and fire trails, or when I just want to kick back. Another vote for the Albatross. It gives you an additional hand position in front of the levers, and a third position at the front of the bars. This is an older picture. The full bar is taped to the stem with cotton tape now.

squirtdad

nitto promenade? I like em

NITTO B603 PROMENADE BAR

https://www.cambriabike.com/products/nitto-b603-promenade-bar?gclid=CjwKCAiA0O7fBRASEiwAYI9QAh73D6cTJ3hX5Csk6uvagOYXDZJtxqtqxE9zo828uxYzE1f7H9IVbBoC85sQAvD_Bw E

Piff 

After much deliberation, I decided on a bar probably unknown to everyone. Bontrager satellite trekking bar (35degree of sweep version). As far as I can tell it's the same bar as the VO milan bar, except wider and with a bit more rise. It also looks very similar to the wald bar in my original post.

My decision was based on multiple people talking about how the 70s supercourses can have a twitchy ride. I thought something like the wald north roads would exacerbate this by reducing how much of my weight rests on the front wheel due to its more laid back posture. So the smaller sweep and rise of the bontrager bar will hopefully counteract this, as well as being more stable on dirt trails due to being wider. Also it was only $20, and free shipping to my local trek store! We'll see if it works out

I appreciate all the advice and pictures, many beautiful bikes.

noglider 

Good thinking. I had North Road bars on my 1971 Super Course for a while, and yes, it was twitchy. It's not so bad when I'm leaning forward more.

The bike taught me how a change of handlebars is the most dramatic change I can make to a bike, so it pays to experiment.