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Old 12-07-18, 06:00 PM
  #51  
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I vote for lugged, brazed plexiglass.
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Old 12-07-18, 06:11 PM
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Transparent aluminium:
"That's the ticket, laddie!"
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Old 12-07-18, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by gugie
I vote for lugged, brazed plexiglass.
I've heard you're a wizard with brazing at low temperatures. But, I'm a bit curious about how you'll braze plexiglass.

Originally Posted by madpogue
Transparent aluminium:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkqiDu1BQXY
"That's the ticket, laddie!"
Aluminum Oxide and Aluminum Oxynitride have been used for quite some time now. They produce extremely strong, and relatively light weight transparent materials.

Unfortunately, still relatively expensive, but perhaps that will change in the future.

I don't think Star Trek specified the specific formula for their transparent aluminum, but these would certainly be viable candidates.

It might be nice, but I'm not sure even Gugie has any laying around his workshop (unless he has some old watches).

Perhaps pyrex/borosilicate would be excellent for a clear back. Good heat resistance, and moderately durable.

It is used in a number of things from pie plates to microwave trays, but finding a good cheap sheet might be a hassle.
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Old 12-07-18, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by madpogue
What about an open frame with painted open-mesh screening where the panels would be? Should be insulated, offer some visibility to the innards, and would definitely carry the steampunk look.
Oh, dang, that is an idea! Okay, its going into the mental hopper!
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Old 12-07-18, 07:41 PM
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These guys used clear acrylic (Plexiglass) to make exterior panels for an Elektra espresso machine. Their aesthetic vision doesn't appeal to me - the Fast And Furious upward lighting that actually makes it hard to see in innards, the sharp-edged aquarium look. But at least it appears that acrylic can work as an exterior material for these machines.


Here is a video of the model of machine I'm restoring, an Elektra "Maxi" aka "Modern", 2 group, Elettronica (push button controls). So we can see generally what we're dealing with. Mine is much earlier than the one shown in the video, the only obvious exterior difference is my machine's decorative side covers are simple flat plastic (?) with radiused edges, not extragavantly shaped as the laters ones are.


There are a few separate exterior panels, all stainless steel:
1 - Back and sides, all one piece, with decorative covers that screw onto the sides. The back has a big "Elektra" badge.
2 - Top cup warmer, slotted
3 - Front upper, where the valve controls and pressure gauge are
4 - Front middle, behind the group bells and drip tray
5 - Front lower, all one piece, where the pushbutton controls and rotary on-off switch are

The easiest panels to replace with some other material, because they are simple flat pieces of stainless steel, would be 3 and 4. 3, if clear, wouldn't show anything but the black frame. 4, if clear, would show some boiler and a few lines, but not much. 5 is a wraparound piece, that is what the guys in the first video replaced with acrylic. 2 needs to be perforated or slotted to let heat escape, and probably sees the highest temperature; if clear it would show the boiler and lines well. 1 is a large wrap around piece, if clear it wouldn't show anything interesting.

One modification people make to espresso machines is "barista lights", which are down-firing LEDs mounted by the groups, that illuminate the drip tray area. There could be lights inside the machine to illuminate the innards too. I'd need a LED driver that accepts 240 v.

I don't know where it will go in the house, but the back side will probably be up against a wall.
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Old 12-07-18, 08:04 PM
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Do you have 220V wired somewhere that you can get to it? Stove, Hot Water Heater, Dryer? Somewhere else?

You could use a transformer, but you should be able to get straight 220V somewhere.

Also, your power will be slightly different if you take it from the panel vs through a transformer. From the wall, it will be symmetrical +110V/-110V/center ground. That would also make it easy to run 110V mostly from your existing circuitry.

Using a transformer, one lead remains ground, and the other lead becomes +220V. This, there is no middle wire to split off for 110V. And, if you ever get shocked, you'll get the full 220V, not half of it.
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Old 12-07-18, 08:27 PM
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Looking at the video, I really liked the naked factory photo you had above, as well as your build photos.

However, I agree the blue neon looked very cheesy. And the plexiglass case didn't do a lot for me either.

That is probably a reminder that once it starts getting closed in, at least some moderate light might be required for anything to show up.

If you use the top shelf as a cup warmer, then you won't see a lot that way either.

Anyway, perhaps a bad idea, without a complete rebuild / redesign, for example incorporating a vertical tank.

If you should blow a tank, or spring a really bad leak, then secondary containment could be very nice.

Last edited by CliffordK; 12-07-18 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 12-07-18, 10:25 PM
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I will bring a 240 v 30 A circuit to the location where the machine is.

The 240 v requirement is one reason why the machine sat derelict in my garage so long. But I recently installed a dishwasher that required a 240 v circuit, which necessitated adding a subpanel, which now makes running another circuit easy.

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Old 12-07-18, 11:09 PM
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https://concordsheetmetal.com/store/perforated-copper/

Looks like perforated copper sheet is readily available. Support will be needed, as stiffness is questionable.
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Old 12-10-18, 12:50 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by jyl
I will bring a 240 v 30 A circuit to the location where the machine is.

The 240 v requirement is one reason why the machine sat derelict in my garage so long. But I recently installed a dishwasher that required a 240 v circuit, which necessitated adding a subpanel, which now makes running another circuit easy.
So you'd be running a separate circuit and breaker off the subpanel?
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Old 12-10-18, 06:35 PM
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Exactly.

The subpanel is in the unfinished basement and dedicated to all the 240v household appliances. Right now it powers the clothes dryer (until we get a gas dryer, which is my preferred type) and the dishwasher, both via dedicated circuits of 30A and 50A respectively. I would install another breaker (a GFCI one, given the application) and run a dedicated 30A circuit in conduit to wherever the espresso machine will live. As long as it lives on the ground floor, access to run the circuit is pretty easy.

There is another subpanel in the garage that powers all the garage outlets, which include a 240v 30A outlet for the table saw and a 240v 50A outlet for the kiln.

The multiple subpanels are necessary because my main panel is full, but I also like being able to cut off those groups of circuits and also shorten the runs of expensive and bulky 6 ga copper wire.
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Old 12-10-18, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by since6
Ah yes expresso first experienced in the midwest, after a night at "Ye Olde Regulator" near the IU campus (home of the Little 500 and one of the great bike movies "Breaking Away") then off to the "Two Bit Rush" for a demi cup of expresso to fortify the drive back to Indianapolis. But then there was the one true love...the B & O Expresso off Olive Way, that's what Starbucks should have been, great coffee and deserts to die for with character miles deep, sigh, now gone. Good luck with your time machine, get it running and then find a roaster to make your on blend.
B&O was such a great shop! At least we still have an incarnation of Bauhaus in Ballard.
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Old 12-11-18, 08:56 AM
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Will the lacquer on the boiler survive the heat and the expansion/contraction and heat cycles the boiler will go through being switched on/off? Beautiful work by the way.
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Old 12-11-18, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by since6
Will the lacquer on the boiler survive the heat and the expansion/contraction and heat cycles the boiler will go through being switched on/off? Beautiful work by the way.
I "think" so, because copper teakettles are commonly lacquered to protect the shine. However, I did a bad job of applying the lacquer and may strip it off and respray. I'm hoping that it will come off easily with acetone. Or I might get lazy and leave it as-is. Depends on how much work the rest of the project is. I'm into the electrical and starting the exterior panels now.
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Old 12-11-18, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by jyl
I will bring a 240 v 30 A circuit to the location where the machine is.

The 240 v requirement is one reason why the machine sat derelict in my garage so long. But I recently installed a dishwasher that required a 240 v circuit, which necessitated adding a subpanel, which now makes running another circuit easy.
OT but a 240v dishwasher....that is some machine I had a 240v microwave.....and replacing it was a total pain....like for like was ridiculous dollars.... but had no 110..... ended up running a 110 line and getting a 110 micro......still a ton cheaper than replaceing the 240/220 microwave
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Old 12-11-18, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by squirtdad
OT but a 240v dishwasher....that is some machine I had a 240v microwave.....and replacing it was a total pain....like for like was ridiculous dollars.... but had no 110..... ended up running a 110 line and getting a 110 micro......still a ton cheaper than replaceing the 240/220 microwave
It is a Hobart LX30H, like this one https://www.burkett.com/used-hobart-...stock-no-23991

Bought from Velocult's liquidation, it was the tavern's spare dishwasher, sat in the basement for years. Wife won't let me put a Velocult sticker on it :-(
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Old 12-11-18, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jyl
It is a Hobart LX30H, like this one https://www.burkett.com/used-hobart-...stock-no-23991

Bought from Velocult's liquidation, it was the tavern's spare dishwasher, sat in the basement for years. Wife won't let me put a Velocult sticker on it :-(
Damn, you really like projects!

And your wife is being a meany about the sticker.
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Old 12-11-18, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
Damn, you really like projects!

And your wife is being a meany about the sticker.
Isn't she? I'm not giving up.
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Old 12-12-18, 10:01 AM
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What's going on with your Spezialissima?
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Old 12-20-18, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by noglider
Damn, I love this. I love espresso and the industrial strength machines.

I heard bad things about home-roasting. I tried it. I didn't like it. First, it takes practice. It makes smoke, and it makes a surprisingly bad smell. And there is a lot of airborne chaff. Never again. I'll leave it to the professionals with the best machinery to do the job and contain the bad parts of the experience.
Tom, you are an adventurous soul!

For those that want to experiment coffee roasting I would suggest getting something like the hot air corn popper. They can only do a couple of pots worth but they are very simple to use and the force air clears the chaffe from the roasting bean. Even with the small batch cooking I would still do outside.

This is from Costco.
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Old 01-02-19, 10:54 PM
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The thing with the spring is a mechanical pressure switch that handles 30 A of 240 v. Old school.


8 bar of brew pressure (left). 1.3 bar of boiler pressure (right). Both pressures adjustable with the turn of a screw. I accidentally cranked brew pressure to 16 bar!
It lives!

I took a break from the Elektra during the holidays but got back to it this week. I pulled my garden hose into the garage and connected it to the machine's supply house, then spent an hour chasing down leaks. One group valve had to be replaced, so I ordered a valve and solenoid, that slowed things down.

Now for electrical. The cord won't reach from the machine to the 240v receptacle in the garage, and I can't move it closer because my wife's pottery kiln is in the way. I wasted an hour driving around in search of a 240v extension cord. Two stores told me there was no such thing because they are illegal and unsafe. I went on Amazon and bought a 15 foot welder's cord for $15. Apparently welders use 240v cords all the time without bursting into flames.

Plugged the machine in, turned on the breaker, turned the machine on, got out the VOM and measured voltage. Yes, there is voltage where there is supposed to be, and none where there is not supposed to be. Hmm, what's that smell. Oh, the heating elements are cooking in a dry boiler. Switched machine off, removed the vacuum valve, poured water through that opening until the boiler was about half full, turned the machine back on.

I inserted a probe thermometer where the vacuum valve goes, and watched the boiler temperature rise to 190F. Removed the thermometer, re-installed the vacuum valve, and nervously waited for the pstat to click or the pressure release valve to open or for the boiler to explode. In the meantime I tightened some more fittings that were leaking.

Click! The pstat works. Boiler pressure, according to the gauge, was 1.2 bar. My son came into the garage. I explained how full of electricity and pressurized water the machine was and how dad was risking life and limb to bring espresso to the family. Dear son was unimpressed, until we steamed some milk. "Wow dad we can make good hot chocolate with this!". And off he went, promising to check back later to see if I had died. As he closed the door I screamed the cry of a dying man, and he told me "stop it, dad".

I adjusted the pstat to get the boiler to 1.5 bar. Now, do the groups and electronic keypads work? I installed the backsplash and drip tray, locked a portafilter in the right group, and pushed a button. Holy moly, the pump started and some water came out of the portafilter. At, um, 3 bar on the gauge. Adjust the pump pressure screw. Oooo, 16 bar. Fiddle some more. 8 bar!

So, here's where we are.
1. Both electronic keypads seem to work, on a gross level. Push botton, water comes out under pressure, water stops. Big relief. These keypad controller thingys cost $700 (!!!) to replace. I've found someone who repairs them, but best for them to simply work. Dodged a bullet!
2. The amount of water delivered by each button seems odd, the "big single shot" button delivers less water than the "little single shot" button, so I'll have to investigate further. Maybe they were programmed weird by the last owner. This machine has a special programming lock, which is literally a keyed lock that you turn to put the controllers in a programming mode. I don't have the key but turns out that all the lock does is close a circuit. So I will simply insert a toggle switch where the lock is and label the positions "program" and "brew". Then I will have to figure out how to program the controller. It is '80s technology that works by Morse code or something. For the time being, the "manual brew" button works.
3. Both groups deliver water at the desired 8 bar, with no dripping other than the expected drops from the valve drain at the end of the shot. Either my portafilter lugs are worn or my group bell flanges are worn, because the portafilter doesn't lock in tightly. There are thicker o-rings meant for this.
4. The water as it exits the portafilter seems not quite hot enough - a thermometer in the stream reads only about 175F. Maybe the group needs to heat up longer.
5. The steam wands work, though one drips just a little so I'll rebuild the valves. Nice four hole tips. Steams 1 cup of cold milk in less than 10 seconds.
6. There is a little leak at the pump, haven't tracked that down yet. And one other very small leak from a fitting that is on the underside of the boiler and hard to get to. I'll get that one when the power isn't on.
7. I cannot tell if the boiler autofill works. There is no voltage at the lead that clips to the water level sensor, I'm not sure if there is supposed to be? But the boiler water level is probably up to the water level probe tip. I think I'm going to figure out how to install a boiler drain valve, by the way. This is a heat exchanger machine and it will be hard to maintain the boiler without an easy way to drain it.
8. The stainless steel exterior panels still need to be mirror polished. I am afraid the "Elektra" logo on the upper faceplate is going to be polished off, as I can't get that part of the panel shiny otherwise. My daughter has access to a laser engraver at school so if I can make a file with that logo in the right font, she can engrave it for me right into the steel.
9. The exterior end panels need to be re-painted. Or wrapped with thin copper sheet.
10. The machine is "on" in my garage. I left it running all evening to see if anything bad happens. I even pulled an experimental shot, that was very drinkable.
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Old 01-02-19, 11:04 PM
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Now I'm going to 'fess up about something. I actually have two of these machines sitting in my garage. You see, I was cruising Craigslist and saw a second Elektra commercial machine in Seattle. Advertised as not working but complete for $200. Similar model to mine, minus the electronic keypads. So I bought it as a "parts machine". Turns out it is in nice condition, should only take a couple days and not too much money to get working. And the seller also had an Elektra grinder for $50. This works fine, could use a $40 burr replacement but I'm using it now.

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Old 01-02-19, 11:10 PM
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Tom, the Specialissima frameset is being displayed in the living room until the garage is cleared of the espresso project. The idea is that I'll tell my wife that the bike frame will leave the living room if the espresso machine can go in the dining room. Marital jujitsu!
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Old 01-02-19, 11:36 PM
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Great job. I have one of those programming keys you can borrow if you want.
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Old 01-03-19, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by delicious
Great job. I have one of those programming keys you can borrow if you want.
Thank you. I will see if my lock can be reassembled. It came apart and I am not sure I can re-crimp it.
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