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Dr. X Rust Remover

Old 11-27-18, 05:30 AM
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jjames1452 
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Dr. X Rust Remover

Has anyone tried Dr X Rust Remover on old frames. I have an old steel Bianchi Frame I may try the soak, sand and paint on??

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Old 11-27-18, 02:25 PM
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For an entire frame I would go with oxalic acid. I use Evaporust for small parts, but it is far too expensive for frames.
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Old 11-27-18, 06:00 PM
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Thank you

Thank you.
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Old 11-27-18, 09:14 PM
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Joe, I would be concerned about a product without a material data safety info on their website. dweenk’s OA recommendation is Savogram Wood Bleach crystals. $10 at HD or Ace. Use a plastic garbage bag, or build a simple wood frame with plastic sheeting to soak the frame.
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Old 11-28-18, 08:30 AM
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Or use a hard plastic kiddie pool. I've had one in the garage rafters for a few years purchased just for that use. It remains, so far, pristine. My lovely wife reminds me about it occasionally. I try to discourage her from looking up while in the garage.
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Old 11-28-18, 09:36 AM
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I have a frame I was thinking about de-rusting with OA. What mix do you use and how long of a soak do you give it?
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Old 11-28-18, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by BigChief View Post
I have a frame I was thinking about de-rusting with OA. What mix do you use and how long of a soak do you give it?
i dissolve about a tablespoon (~20g?) OA per litre into warm water

Concentration doesn't seem to matter as much compared to ambient temperature.

If your surroundings is below 20degC ish... you'll be waiting days to see any action... I'd need to soak for 3-5days.

But if you warm it up to over 30degC... it could work overnight. (I've borrowed heaters from my fish & gardening hobbies)

Boil it further to steaming hot 60-70degC & agitate it constantly... heck it could be done in hours

It doesn't necessarily have to be soaking fully either, just kept wetted. If you can arrange some form of ornamental fountain recirculating pump that showers the warm fluid over the object that would work just as good.

OA doesn't seem to hurt chrome (chrome that's still securely attached) but it'll dull most painted finishes. Certain paints can change colour too. It's harsh on zinc & etches aluminium too.
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Old 11-28-18, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Tamiya View Post
i dissolve about a tablespoon (~20g?) OA per litre...Concentration doesn't seem to matter as much compared to ambient temperature...Boil it further to steaming hot 60-70degC & agitate it constantly...If you can arrange some form of ornamental fountain recirculating pump that showers the warm fluid over the object...



Mmmm...boiling, splashing fountain of oxalic acid:
https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/ipcsneng/neng0707.html

Edit/P.s.:
No experience with Dr. X, though I have used both Evaporust and oxalic acid - both have their advantages. I've plugged holes and filled frame tubes with Evaportust and used soaked rags for smaller rust spots. Evaporust advertises itself as biodegradable, non-toxic, and pH-neutral. Still, for large-scale, external rust issues, I find OA baths to be most effective. If going this route, do take reasonable precautions to avoid skin contact, until you are finished and can neutralize the acid with baking soda. Beyond its effectiveness, another advantage of OA is that it is inexpensive and can be monitored slowly (24-48 hours, using approximately 2 tbs per gallon, measured as precisely as possible in an extremely haphazard manner).

That said, if you are certain you want to repaint the entire frame (an irreversible, and not easy thing to do well), I would start off with strong paint stripper. Then you will end up scraping and sanding (likely with at least 400-600 grit). Do that prior to addressing the rust issues. Any soaking liquid will be more effective not having to travel under the paint.

Last edited by gaucho777; 11-29-18 at 12:38 AM.
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