Shoes for toe clip pedals?
#26
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A size 44EU/10UK/11US is about average for men in the Netherlands, most require something between a 42 and a 46.
#27
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When I worked at a bike shop in the early 1970s, we had similar country-specific advice for buyers of cycling shoes, steering folks with narrower feet to Italian shoes, wider feet to Belgian shoes.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#28
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Be careful about shoe size conversion charts. They are wildly contradictory and usually wrong. Best to know your sizes in both EU as well as US/UK/JP or whatever. IME 11US is closer to 45EU
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#30
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All my bikes have clips and straps. For the last four or five years I've been wearing 5-10 Freeriders, a fairly inexpensive cyclocross shoe. They look and feel good enough to wear all the time, on or off the bike. They are my go-to shoe for commuting and just about everything.
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Too wide for me usually as well. People's feet have gotten fatter since I was a kid. Strange but true. I'm a D width, which at the time was considered medium-wide. While D is nominally considered medium, in practice nowadays I'm told I have narrow feet.
Be careful about shoe size conversion charts. They are wildly contradictory and usually wrong. Best to know your sizes in both EU as well as US/UK/JP or whatever. IME 11US is closer to 45EU
Be careful about shoe size conversion charts. They are wildly contradictory and usually wrong. Best to know your sizes in both EU as well as US/UK/JP or whatever. IME 11US is closer to 45EU
#32
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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Um, not especially deep. I have different size clips on my various bikes and I've rarely felt a need to swap them out for something different. I can go check if you'd like.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
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jimmuller
Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
#33
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I wonder why Americans (some of us, anyway) have such wide feet. Maybe it's from mixing genes from many places. My feet are so wide that there are really no shoes that fit. Next time I go shoe shopping, I'll go to the place that only has orthopedic shoes, because I'm serious when I say no shoes fit me. The length of my feet measures to be size 11 US, but I buy size 12 just so my toes fit, and they still don't really fit.
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#34
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Nah, but thanks for offering. I'm leaning towards these and from what I've read on the boards, a lot of people are using deep clips to accommodate the larger toe box on these shoes (larger than old school cycling shoes). But what the heck, I'm a fan of trial and error
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Aware of the comments about these sort of shoes not being stiff enough, I bought the shoes 1/2 size larger than normal then made stiff inserts which have worked just grand. I made these from some 3mm thick ABS plastic I had. Used a shoe insert for the pattern and 'bobs yer uncle'. Longest day, so far, was 106 miles. Feet felt fine. Legs felt terrible.
#36
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I wonder why Americans (some of us, anyway) have such wide feet. Maybe it's from mixing genes from many places. My feet are so wide that there are really no shoes that fit. Next time I go shoe shopping, I'll go to the place that only has orthopedic shoes, because I'm serious when I say no shoes fit me. The length of my feet measures to be size 11 US, but I buy size 12 just so my toes fit, and they still don't really fit.
If you have really side feet, consider Meindl's comfort line or Han Wag's wider models when it comes to hiking boots or walking shoes.
#37
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@JaccoW, that makes sense but it's not a complete explanation. I've always been thin. I couldn't be overweight if I tried.
I'll look for those shoes, so thank you.
I'll look for those shoes, so thank you.
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#38
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SVB Handmade Cycling Shoes - Black
These ones look nice but they are not cheap. Has someone tried them?
These ones look nice but they are not cheap. Has someone tried them?
#39
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SVB Handmade Cycling Shoes - Black
These ones look nice but they are not cheap. Has someone tried them?
These ones look nice but they are not cheap. Has someone tried them?
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#40
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Nike Air Mavin 2 basketball shoes. Look pretty similar to some of the touring SPD shoes. I've had people ask if they're cycling specific shoes. About 50-60 US dollars.
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They are regular shoes made of leather or synthetic material in various colours, comfy and indestructible!
Mine have been kicking 15 years!
https://www.amazon.com/CAMPER-Pelota.../dp/B00R936OPG
#42
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This will be the next...
https://www.amazon.es/Camper-Pelotas...12381463&psc=1
https://www.amazon.es/Camper-Pelotas...12381463&psc=1
#43
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I happen to use a number of pedals and type, clipped to clipless, SPD, Look.
Various shoes, of course but for clipped- plastic cleat goes with aluminum cage and the steel cleat used for steel pedal cage (none of that relative to the toe clip and strap).
If I had to select only one shoe as the multi pedal use, would select a circa 1990ish Vittoria MTB shoe with recessed SPD cleat. These shoes are the boss. Have owned two pairs and soon need to shop another.
Excellent design and my fave for comfort. Other reasons:
Stiff sole, I guess they call it carbon but seems like a hard composite plastic.
Mild sole lugs, recessed cleat and easy to walk in.
Breathable mesh but mostly leather upper, shoe laces (yeah!) and then they get covered with a leather tongue that adjust tension by hook and loop strap (Velcro). Great design that protects the laces and as the foot progressively swells during the day, really can fine tune the comfort.
Again though, these are for SPD yet I often use them with vintage toe clip pedals and straps. For the old pedal setup, its a good shoe for balance of locking in and ease of release. But for aggressive cadence, climbs, I still prefer the old slotted cleats and shoes.
Various shoes, of course but for clipped- plastic cleat goes with aluminum cage and the steel cleat used for steel pedal cage (none of that relative to the toe clip and strap).
If I had to select only one shoe as the multi pedal use, would select a circa 1990ish Vittoria MTB shoe with recessed SPD cleat. These shoes are the boss. Have owned two pairs and soon need to shop another.
Excellent design and my fave for comfort. Other reasons:
Stiff sole, I guess they call it carbon but seems like a hard composite plastic.
Mild sole lugs, recessed cleat and easy to walk in.
Breathable mesh but mostly leather upper, shoe laces (yeah!) and then they get covered with a leather tongue that adjust tension by hook and loop strap (Velcro). Great design that protects the laces and as the foot progressively swells during the day, really can fine tune the comfort.
Again though, these are for SPD yet I often use them with vintage toe clip pedals and straps. For the old pedal setup, its a good shoe for balance of locking in and ease of release. But for aggressive cadence, climbs, I still prefer the old slotted cleats and shoes.
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JohnDthompson
I sprayed the threads with PB blaster but l was lifting the Park stand off the floor. Never heard of heat for locktite. Will let the PB blaster soak in and try again. I expect a propane torch is too much and I should stick with a hairdryer??
Slightspeed
Thank you, I don't want to destroy my Spd shoes when there is a better way.
I sprayed the threads with PB blaster but l was lifting the Park stand off the floor. Never heard of heat for locktite. Will let the PB blaster soak in and try again. I expect a propane torch is too much and I should stick with a hairdryer??
Slightspeed
Thank you, I don't want to destroy my Spd shoes when there is a better way.
#46
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Veering slightly OT. Does anyone remember when Look pedals came with a template for your shoes, and you had to drill three holes and mount T nuts in them? It wasn't that fun to do.
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shoes for toe cages
I have used shot put shoes for several years as a commuter. They are smooth soled, low toe box, stiffer than indoor soccer shoes (I have also used Adidas Sambas a lot with toe cages), tough and can be found often at the end of track season (late summer) at discounted prices. Look for Asics Throw Pro or Adidas Adizero as examples. There are a couple of variations. Some shoes are for gliders using the older sliding technique and some are for rotational throwers using the discus style spin. The gliders were my preference as they didn't wrap the sole around the shoe as much.
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I use pedals with clips when I commute. I like to wear hiking shows with vibram soles, like merrel. Softer soles make my toes get numb and don't feel as good.
#49
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I have a set of toe clip pedals (at least I think they are called toe clips) on an old Fuji I picked up for a winter bike. Since they are on with locktite I can't get them off the cranks for now, at least. All my other pedals are spd and if I can get these off I will add spd as these toe clips are killing me. I just don't feel right in them.
But the toe clips are also ripping the toes of my spd shoes.
What do you wear with these pedals??
I can add photos of the pedals if needed
But the toe clips are also ripping the toes of my spd shoes.
What do you wear with these pedals??
I can add photos of the pedals if needed
https://www.continentalski.com/image...h-41134-11.jpg
I once had a stuck pedal that i was trying to remove with a normal car mechanic 15mm wrench,. I put an extension over the 15mm wrench and snapped the wrench into 2 pieces. If the bicycles is off the stand and the opposite crank arm is secured to the chainstay with a strap or something then you can get a lot more leverage on the wrench. Also, a genuine pedal wrench has slots in different locations so that you can get the wrench onto the pedal with the best orientation for applying pressure. I was taught by my dad (a Class-A licensed auto-mechanic) that giving the wrench a sharp rap with a mallet would often loosen the stuck nut. I think of it as being akin to using an impact hammer.
If you do not have a proper pedal wrench perhaps your local bicycle shop would remove the pedal for you?
Good luck and cheers
#50
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Opps!! Let this thread get away. Yes, pedals off and now have mountain bike pedals on (as well as 700 rims and cyclross tires). Poor bike. It went from being a garage queen to being a winter beater.