Mysterious British bike is done, for now.
01-08-19, 05:29 PM
#1
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Mysterious British bike is done, for now.
There have been a few threads about trying to identify this bike going back to 2011, with no luck. Mystery bike
I had it painted by Yellow Jersey, near Madison, WI, and I've put it together mostly with parts I had, and some I bought for this project.
I went with Campy NR derailleurs because I had them and I like them. I'm having issues though, getting it in the 2 large cogs in the rear (28t) when in the large 53t chainring, but I'll get it worked out. It's an Italian made Atom 14-28 freewheel.
I'm using some NOS Simplex shifters.
I went with a Stronglight/Spidel drilled crankset, with Campy pedals.
I'm using an NOS set of Weinmann brakes for now, but I will change to something nicer if I find something. I'm open to suggestions.
I went with a Brooks B17 mounted on a Simplex post.
I used a GB map of England handlebar with an old GB stem.
New Paselas on Wolber Gentleman 81 rims with Cycle Pro Italian hubs.
Here's a few pics. Let me know what you think. All comments are welcomed and appreciated.
I had it painted by Yellow Jersey, near Madison, WI, and I've put it together mostly with parts I had, and some I bought for this project.
I went with Campy NR derailleurs because I had them and I like them. I'm having issues though, getting it in the 2 large cogs in the rear (28t) when in the large 53t chainring, but I'll get it worked out. It's an Italian made Atom 14-28 freewheel.
I'm using some NOS Simplex shifters.
I went with a Stronglight/Spidel drilled crankset, with Campy pedals.
I'm using an NOS set of Weinmann brakes for now, but I will change to something nicer if I find something. I'm open to suggestions.
I went with a Brooks B17 mounted on a Simplex post.
I used a GB map of England handlebar with an old GB stem.
New Paselas on Wolber Gentleman 81 rims with Cycle Pro Italian hubs.
Here's a few pics. Let me know what you think. All comments are welcomed and appreciated.
01-08-19, 05:33 PM
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I seriously couldn't have done better myself.
It looks amazing!!!
It looks amazing!!!
01-08-19, 05:44 PM
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Something seems "ouch" about the drillium on the Stronglight. Still, a drop-dead gorgeous build, and the cat clearly approves.
01-08-19, 06:30 PM
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Cat is mad you staged the bike too near his/her window
01-08-19, 06:45 PM
#5
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Gorgeous. I am a fan of the drilled Stronglight, but then, I have one on my Raleigh. The bar plugs are a nice touch too. Very classy build.
01-08-19, 06:56 PM
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Beautiful!
Campy crank bolt for light mount hole: Nice touch!
Brent
Campy crank bolt for light mount hole: Nice touch!
Brent
01-08-19, 07:35 PM
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Thanks to all of you for the nice comments. The plugs do look nice. I just wish I could do a better job on the wrapping though. I guess I'll just have to keep getting more bikes so I can practice the wrapping technique.
01-08-19, 07:36 PM
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Looks Great.
It must be driving you nuts not knowing exactly what it is I know it would me. I can't really explain it but the Frame is puzzling to me. The Fork is definately English but the Frame seems to speak a little French to me. Plus the Shifter Bosses are a real mystery.
What size Seatpost was the best fit? What size BB did you use?
I really think for piece of mind more sluthing is definately in the cards. Plus we need to keep the decal companies in the loop.
It must be driving you nuts not knowing exactly what it is I know it would me. I can't really explain it but the Frame is puzzling to me. The Fork is definately English but the Frame seems to speak a little French to me. Plus the Shifter Bosses are a real mystery.
What size Seatpost was the best fit? What size BB did you use?
I really think for piece of mind more sluthing is definately in the cards. Plus we need to keep the decal companies in the loop.
01-08-19, 07:47 PM
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Beautiful work! As for the bar tape, try starting the wrap from the bar ends and taping it where it ends near the stem. The fat modern stuff just can’t be stuffed into the bar ends like old Cloth or plastic bar wrap.
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Keeping Seattle’s bike shops in business since 1978
01-08-19, 07:51 PM
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Looks Great.
It must be driving you nuts not knowing exactly what it is I know it would me. I can't really explain it but the Frame is puzzling to me. The Fork is definately English but the Frame seems to speak a little French to me. Plus the Shifter Bosses are a real mystery.
What size Seatpost was the best fit? What size BB did you use?
I really think for piece of mind more sluthing is definately in the cards. Plus we need to keep the decal companies in the loop.
It must be driving you nuts not knowing exactly what it is I know it would me. I can't really explain it but the Frame is puzzling to me. The Fork is definately English but the Frame seems to speak a little French to me. Plus the Shifter Bosses are a real mystery.
What size Seatpost was the best fit? What size BB did you use?
I really think for piece of mind more sluthing is definately in the cards. Plus we need to keep the decal companies in the loop.
The only way I'm going to figure out who made it is by the serial number, and so far I can't find any maker that uses that series of numbers. 95112 over a 7. I was wrong on the BB threading from the other thread. It is English but it's LH thread on the DS and RH thread on the NDS. I don't know why I thought it was RH both sides.
Andy gave me a set of decals for a Vanni if I wanted to put those on. It's tempting because they're really nice decals. It looks so plain with nothing on it. I did order some Accles & Pollock decals from H.LLoyd but they're the kind you put on with varnish so I have to figure out how to do it first.
01-08-19, 09:25 PM
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You're right, it is driving me nuts not knowing. The English fork is the correct one since the serial number matches the frame. It had one right shifter boss but Andy at Yellow Jersey replaced it with two more that take a standard thread. I ended up using a 26.5 seatpost but it's a little loose so I'm going to use a shim just to snug it up a little. The BB is a 118mm Stronglight.
The only way I'm going to figure out who made it is by the serial number, and so far I can't find any maker that uses that series of numbers. 95112 over a 7. I was wrong on the BB threading from the other thread. It is English but it's LH thread on the DS and RH thread on the NDS. I don't know why I thought it was RH both sides.
Andy gave me a set of decals for a Vanni if I wanted to put those on. It's tempting because they're really nice decals. It looks so plain with nothing on it. I did order some Accles & Pollock decals from H.LLoyd but they're the kind you put on with varnish so I have to figure out how to do it first.
The only way I'm going to figure out who made it is by the serial number, and so far I can't find any maker that uses that series of numbers. 95112 over a 7. I was wrong on the BB threading from the other thread. It is English but it's LH thread on the DS and RH thread on the NDS. I don't know why I thought it was RH both sides.
Andy gave me a set of decals for a Vanni if I wanted to put those on. It's tempting because they're really nice decals. It looks so plain with nothing on it. I did order some Accles & Pollock decals from H.LLoyd but they're the kind you put on with varnish so I have to figure out how to do it first.
Just spit ballin here, but for the time being how about a simple Union Jack for a headbadge, maybe abstract with another small one elsewhere, lower seattube or upper back of. You could name it The or just Riddler on the downtube, again, maybe abstract.
It stands as a testament to our dedication to our chosen obsession to see it through name or no.
01-09-19, 12:46 AM
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Very pretty!
The chrome lugs are sweet and that lovely stem jumps right out at ya. The Simplex badge on the seatpost is pretty cool, too. Never seen that before
The chrome lugs are sweet and that lovely stem jumps right out at ya. The Simplex badge on the seatpost is pretty cool, too. Never seen that before
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
01-09-19, 01:11 AM
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Headbadge - a "veddy British" looking heraldic crest, bearing the letters "WTF".....
01-09-19, 01:29 AM
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What a beautiful built!
Regarding the issue below:
I went with Campy NR derailleurs because I had them and I like them. I'm having issues though, getting it in the 2 large cogs in the rear (28t) when in the large 53t chainring, but I'll get it worked out. It's an Italian made Atom 14-28 freewheel.
You do not need and/or should not try to get it worked out!
Normally, when you need to get in the largest & the 2nd largest cogs in the rear, you should be in the smaller chain ring (42t?). That is when you are climbing. No one needs to stay on 53t chain ring in that case. So, 53t for smaller cogs & smaller chain ring for 26-28 cogs. That's it!
Have you checked about Urago from Nice, France for your mystery frame?
Regarding the issue below:
I went with Campy NR derailleurs because I had them and I like them. I'm having issues though, getting it in the 2 large cogs in the rear (28t) when in the large 53t chainring, but I'll get it worked out. It's an Italian made Atom 14-28 freewheel.
You do not need and/or should not try to get it worked out!
Normally, when you need to get in the largest & the 2nd largest cogs in the rear, you should be in the smaller chain ring (42t?). That is when you are climbing. No one needs to stay on 53t chain ring in that case. So, 53t for smaller cogs & smaller chain ring for 26-28 cogs. That's it!
Have you checked about Urago from Nice, France for your mystery frame?
Last edited by Nguyen Dang; 01-09-19 at 02:02 AM.
01-09-19, 01:48 AM
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What a beautiful built!
Regarding the issue below:
I went with Campy NR derailleurs because I had them and I like them. I'm having issues though, getting it in the 2 large cogs in the rear (28t) when in the large 53t chainring, but I'll get it worked out. It's an Italian made Atom 14-28 freewheel.
You do not need and/or should not try to get it worked out!
Normally, when you need to get in the largest & the 2nd largest cogs in the rear, you should be in the smaller chain ring (42t?). That is when you are climbing. No one needs to stay on 53t chain ring in that case. So, 53t for smaller cogs & smaller chain ring for 26-28 cogs. That's it!
Regarding the issue below:
I went with Campy NR derailleurs because I had them and I like them. I'm having issues though, getting it in the 2 large cogs in the rear (28t) when in the large 53t chainring, but I'll get it worked out. It's an Italian made Atom 14-28 freewheel.
You do not need and/or should not try to get it worked out!
Normally, when you need to get in the largest & the 2nd largest cogs in the rear, you should be in the smaller chain ring (42t?). That is when you are climbing. No one needs to stay on 53t chain ring in that case. So, 53t for smaller cogs & smaller chain ring for 26-28 cogs. That's it!
OP, how many teeth on that Stronglight inner ring? To use a Campy NR with a 28 rear, better not go with a spread in front any bigger that 53-42 (and even that is a lot).
Ben
01-09-19, 07:02 AM
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This bike is beautiful and it has a lot of nice touches like the campy bolt for the fork and the bar ends. This is very classy.
01-09-19, 07:25 AM
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The bike looks great, you do nice work.
01-09-19, 07:26 AM
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Bike looks great. I really like the paint, as I'm not a fan of powder coating at all. Looks like it just came off the showroom floor. 
01-09-19, 08:25 AM
#23
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Try making an angled cut at the end so you don’t get as much of a “knobby” finish, and a different finish tape or whip finish with an appropriately colored embroidery thread would probably improve that detail.
01-09-19, 08:30 AM
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I completely disagree, If the OP actually rides this bike, the day will come when he crests a hill tired, doesn't think, and pulls that left lever back. Oops! One dead NR derailleur and perhaps some other damage, maybe to that beautiful frame.
OP, how many teeth on that Stronglight inner ring? To use a Campy NR with a 28 rear, better not go with a spread in front any bigger that 53-42 (and even that is a lot).
Ben
OP, how many teeth on that Stronglight inner ring? To use a Campy NR with a 28 rear, better not go with a spread in front any bigger that 53-42 (and even that is a lot).
Ben
It's a 53-42 up front. I'm going to change the setting on the rd and see if that stops it from hitting those gears.
01-09-19, 09:37 AM
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What tape do you have on there? It looks pretty thick like maybe the 3mm Fizik stuff? Cloth would definitely look the part more and give a cleaner line to the bars, but if this is a comfort decision I get it.
Try making an angled cut at the end so you don’t get as much of a “knobby” finish, and a different finish tape or whip finish with an appropriately colored embroidery thread would probably improve that detail.
I usually wrap starting at the ends and ending in the middle, but this time I wanted to try the old way which didn't work out.
