My problem with them isn't quite that severe. I can't do modern clipless and don't want to anyway. Even with thin skinny shoes, they rub and catch on the crank arm pretty bad.

The fix for me was easy, pedal extenders. They solved that problem and really helped ankle, knee and hip pain as well. Probably should have looked harder at Q-factor before then.

The extenders move the quill outboard and solve all those problems for me. I swear by MKS Sylvan's, one of the best values in cycling imho. Plenty of Campy in use and in stock as well. ;)

Thanks for the tips. I've been looking around for some Superbe of late. Now that I've settled into no more n+1, componentry is the new addiction. And I do find myself Campy curious, now that I've gotten my feet wet. I've heard so much good stuff about Record hubs, over the years, that I'm anxious to try those at some point. After acquiring 3 new bikes(all of my acquisitions are keepers) over the past two years, my C&V life is turning back toward fiddling. I'm awaiting new rims that I'll lace to Sunshine hubs and put that corncob on. And build this set specific to the Trek, with its 124mm dropouts. It's been many years since I've built wheels, and I'm looking forward to it. And I very much enjoy friction shifting.

What now? A Campy crank to mate them up with, of course! No really, the threads are slightly different so when threading non-campy pedals into Campy cranks it is very tight, and you'll see little flecks of metal on the threads when you remove them. I'm not sure when you go the other way, threading Campy pedals into non-campy cranks, though. Maybe that will work better.

Never thought threading could be a problem. I went to ebay though, to see what I could see, and I def like N.R. better than the rest. I like that fluted crank arm.

You certainly do, BG! Think of it as a vintage fashion accessory!

I've read this a few times, but out of many campy cranks with pedals from Campy, Shimano, MKS, and Lyotard (and some directly vice-versa) I've only seen it ONCE and that was Campy to Campy. And it that case, the pedals were installable and removable - the wrench just required steady, firm pressure.

Yes, they are NR. Not sure how they are different from Record. SR came ofter the little metal loops for toe strap guiding were removed. I had a pair of that pedal on a bike I bought new in 1970, but it was claimed to have a lot of NOS parts.

So, those pedals could be around 45 to 50 years old. I'd recommend opening them up and overhauling the bearings even if they feel smooth. If they feel smooth the bearings are likely not pitted. If they are dry and not pitted, they could soon be pitted if you don't get some good fresh clean nutricious grease in there. If they have grease, start your future decades with those pedals by giving them a good meal of good new grease.

That model, with the loops, was highly sought after perhaps 10 years ago. You got a real deal at $50/pair. Now you need a set of Christophe toeclips with Binda laminated straps, and a Record crankset to use with them. You'll also need shoes with hard soles for long rides.

So? How is the bike now?

And BTW, not too many people anymore try to save money on a vintage bike build by going out and scoring a complete late NR/early SR era set of Campy components!

Also: you need a set of the little spring-loaded adjuster screws that go into the back of the dropouts. They make sure that when you drop your wheel into the dropouts that they go in already aligned.

Are you saying your Trek frame when new had 124 mm dropout spacing in the rear? What is it and what year? Is it a road frame?

Seek out some older bike repair manuals. Old Campy has common sense, but not necessarily the same as a lot of other brands.

The strap loop is for a toe strap, which is intended to place your foot between the little metal loop and the crank arm, not on the little loop. It's also intended to be ridden with hard-soled classic road shoes with hard cleats. Many of us who grew up with these have found we can use these pedals without vintage racing shoes, so that's not a requirement. But they were designed as part of a system for racing.

I bought a 1980 bike that had the later Campy Nuovo Record Strada (road) Superleggera pedals, presumably 1980 pedals? They did not have aluminum strap loops, and had aluminum side/quill plates. There were also Campy NR Strada pedals with the steel side/quill plates and no strap loops. The SLs are not Super Record. Super Record was released with titanium spindles. These survived a few years but they want back to steel spindles at some point because of breakage.

It's also possible your feet are too big for the pedal given your shoes. I never had that problem, so yr on yr own with that. But not even the best pedal can work for everyone.

It happened to two of mine. I went from Camp pedals that threaded in beautifully with just finger pressure to Simano clipless that were somewhat tight going in (had to use a wrench)(of course I used grease) and eventually back to Campy quills. Cleaned the threads well and used oil to thread them back in, a few tuns forward then back them out, clean the threads, repeat, until they went all the way in. It works, but I doubt they will ever thread in as good as they did before. Have to use a wrench most of the way now. You can do it - just sayin'.
Again, that was Shimano pedals going int Campy cranks, and going back to Campy pedals. It may work better with Campy pedals going into Shimano cranks - dont know.
So now I use Campy quills in my Campy cranks, and anything Japanese in my Japanese cranks. I just think they fit better.

I just threw out my hard soled shoes, thinking I'd never use them again.

79 930. It had that spacing when I got it, 7 months ago.as a frame set.

Pedal extenders solved all the problems for me, simple as pi. ;)

See post #27 for the long winded version if you like. :)

If you mean the Chorus pedals that have a flat foot platform and the toeclip attached at the front, I agree completely! Those ARE really good, but even more comfortable is the Record version, the C-Record Strada. But the C-Record Strada pedal is in the $200 per pair and up range. I bought mine for $35 /set in 1985, at a Performance Cycle in-store clearance sale.

Here's an example listing for the Nuovo Record Strada without loops: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Beautiful-V...AAAOSwEONcRSKA

And here's one with the loops: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAMPAGNOLO-....c100005.m1851

I'm surprised at how many listings there are for the ones with loops.

Here is one for the C-record: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Campagnolo-...gAAOSwa3FcSlNb

And here is a Nuovo Record Pista Superleggeri - no loops and no quill: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Campagn...IAAOSw7Spb602Z

I haven't looked at them for a while so I'm a little surprised at some of the prices. Highest one I did not share - over $700 a set for C-Record Pista.

What is this 'quill' we keep mentioning? I always thought the quill was the shaft with the threads on it. Apparently this is incorrect.

It's a weird term, and I think you are correct, though that doesn't quite cover a quill stem. But I've always heard it applied to pedals with that point sticking out the side and up, like the Campy Record Strada we've been discussing. That feature actually serves to guide the foot placement, so I can't explain it, maybe Bandera or someone smart will chime in.

Rectangular pedals like a block pedal (rubber blocks like on three-speed roadsters), a rattrap pedal (rectangular steel pedal like most Lyotard and like the modern MKS Touring, however not steel) also have what you call a quill, but the name isn't used for them ... I dunno. Platform pedals also have quill, but again I dunno.

Campagnolo named their pedals based on their intended uses. I can't say about Shimano. The Strada for racing on roads, the Pista for racing on tracks. They didn't really have a touring pedal, though the C-Record platforms and the similar but heavier Chorus version do the job well, for my foot. I'm always tempted to try the C-record Pista for sheer beauty and small-part elegance, but when I looked at Bay listings I saw prices upward of $700 per pair - I can't explain it, aside from they were NOS and NIB. But still!

Also in this category are the Shimano 600EX/6207 and a similar platform in 105 and in Dura Ace grades - was it a 7400? These are more versatile than the Campy designs since they have shorter spindles and lots of side lean clearance. A lot of people said they were Pistas or fixie pedals since they enabled more lean (or look like they do!) But I think they are also decently comfortable touring pedals, with a sneaker of other supportive shoe that has a stiffer sole. The Shimanos had a special cleat available, and the Campys used a standard hard slotted cleat. But cleats and cleat shoes were not necessary. I've been on some long metric century rides with the C Record Stradas, and stiff sneakers have been adequate at least for sole protection.

Also, I looked up your frame on the Vintage Trek site. It looks like a great frame from 1979, and they were sold as a frame/fork or as a complete bike. Trek's top of the range, made in Wisconsin, Columbus SL/SP. For the factory fully built bikes, 6 speed freewheels were used, so I would say (going on how Trek was rather conventional) it probably was 126 mm spacing when it was new. If you got it as 124 mm, I think that just means perhaps somebody stood on it once in the distant past. You could certainly build up a bike to work with that spacing, but you might have to go to 5 speed and narrow the hub spacing and axle length a little bit. It would be a custom job to set it up If you are in the USA and have a decent frame shop nearby you could probably get the frame spread just a little bit and have the alignment restored, for not much money. It should be just a matter of cold-setting, but someone with some expertise should see what is actually wrong. A lot of folks here (including me) could reasonably guess that "its just a little bend, get two guys to help you pull it out," but these days I just like to get it fixed right, if I don't know enough about it.

Once aligned and at correct dimensions, it should ride like a dream with any of the great used contemporary (1969 through 1989) wheel sets you can steal on Ebay, which should just slide right on if 126 mm. Set the derailleur limits and brake shoe engagement, and verify the shifting and go! I had my 1984 Trek 610 fully aligned once (I think it was misaligned rom the factory or at least from the original shop) and it has been a real fine rider ever since, even with all the oddball components I've tried out on it.. Your Columbus frame should be even better.

I can't argue with your experience. I've either been lucky or not as sensitive.

Boy, climate change sure has altered the eastern shore....

I can assure you this frame rides like a dream when built up with either vintage components, or even a 130mm hub in the back with contemporary components.