Finish tape
#26
Senior Member
Top down used to be the most common method during the cotton era. The bottom up method coincided with Bike Ribbon becoming popular - to the best of my recollection. The directions said bottom up, and the package included a couple strips of decorative tape for finishing.
I still prefer top down for cotton tape. Frankly, I prefer it for all tape. I've done it both ways many times, and it makes little difference for me WRT longevity. I tend to fidget though, and don't just stay on the ramps/hoods all the time. Also I tend to ride in the drops more than 'modern' cyclists.
When taping bottom up, I found that suede cord works pretty well for a whipped finish, as does Rivendell style twine. I can't stand the look of electrical tape.
I still prefer top down for cotton tape. Frankly, I prefer it for all tape. I've done it both ways many times, and it makes little difference for me WRT longevity. I tend to fidget though, and don't just stay on the ramps/hoods all the time. Also I tend to ride in the drops more than 'modern' cyclists.
When taping bottom up, I found that suede cord works pretty well for a whipped finish, as does Rivendell style twine. I can't stand the look of electrical tape.
#27
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I like to use 'tape clips'. These are plastic pieces that screw together....they used to be easily available but the old ones are hard to find these days. However, Arundel still makes a version but it only comes in black.
This is the best pic of them I have on hand, both of these were purchased in the 1990s and have been used on many sets of bar tape.
This is the best pic of them I have on hand, both of these were purchased in the 1990s and have been used on many sets of bar tape.
#28
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Thread Starter
I like to use 'tape clips'. These are plastic pieces that screw together....they used to be easily available but the old ones are hard to find these days. However, Arundel still makes a version but it only comes in black.
This is the best pic of them I have on hand, both of these were purchased in the 1990s and have been used on many sets of bar tape.
This is the best pic of them I have on hand, both of these were purchased in the 1990s and have been used on many sets of bar tape.
#29
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Anyone have a source for bar treatment like that ? (can't call it a wrap) ????
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#30
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#31
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thanks
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#32
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I really like the OP's finish, very classy. I usually do cloth bottom to top, twine whip, then several coats of shellac. It's THE most labor intensive way to finish your bars and you have to wait a couple of days before you can ride it. It's also THE most durable finish out there. Crash and tear it up a bit, just add some shellac for a repair, good as new. I've got a bike with 5 year old tape on it that's holding up the same as new.
For synthetic tape, the OP's method looks like the way to go. Twine is too thin and cuts into padded tape, the fairly wider, but still narrow leather lacing is now on my list of things to try.
For synthetic tape, the OP's method looks like the way to go. Twine is too thin and cuts into padded tape, the fairly wider, but still narrow leather lacing is now on my list of things to try.
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#33
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#35
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I always wrap bottom to top then finish with electrical tape. At the LBS we tell, then demonstrate, the new techs about the 'finish tape' that comes in every package of bar tape. "First thing you do is THROW this stuff in the garbage. See?" We've found that only Scotch 33 electrical tape will do. Accept no imitations. I don't know why only Scotch (3M?) gets it right.
I also insist that the finish wrap is perfect: each layer exactly on top of the previous layer, only 2 or 3 wraps and the end cut ( not torn off) on the under side of the bar. At home I even seal that end with 2 or 3 taps of a hot soldering iron. Sometimes I leave it like that, sometimes I cover that with cotton line whipped as discussed above. I'll then seal that with 2 coats of water based poly. The water based poly coat seals it well and is clear vs oil based polyurethane. Dries fast too. I've used color coordinated electrical tape at times too. Not much.
The lacing discussed by the OP is a good idea. I'll see about getting some and "giving it a go".
I also insist that the finish wrap is perfect: each layer exactly on top of the previous layer, only 2 or 3 wraps and the end cut ( not torn off) on the under side of the bar. At home I even seal that end with 2 or 3 taps of a hot soldering iron. Sometimes I leave it like that, sometimes I cover that with cotton line whipped as discussed above. I'll then seal that with 2 coats of water based poly. The water based poly coat seals it well and is clear vs oil based polyurethane. Dries fast too. I've used color coordinated electrical tape at times too. Not much.
The lacing discussed by the OP is a good idea. I'll see about getting some and "giving it a go".
#37
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Whoa.
Anyone else that does a string whip is a chump.
That is amazing.
I don't really dig the twine wrap whip thing... (says the guy that spent WAY too much time wrapping one of his chainstays) The phrase I've always thought (at least on my own bikes) is "too precious."
"Cork" tape is my favorite- I've finished wraps with electrical tape and cloth bar tape (or electrical tape with cloth tape over it). The two colors of bar tape I like are white and brown, I like the look of yellow finishing tape and was kind of surprised that I got a bunch of comments saying to the effect of 'you spent all that time and effort and money on all that ****, then used whatever color tape you had sitting around.'
1985 Trek 620 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
1990 Miyata 1000LT by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
IMG_0220 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
Anyone else that does a string whip is a chump.
That is amazing.
I don't really dig the twine wrap whip thing... (says the guy that spent WAY too much time wrapping one of his chainstays) The phrase I've always thought (at least on my own bikes) is "too precious."
"Cork" tape is my favorite- I've finished wraps with electrical tape and cloth bar tape (or electrical tape with cloth tape over it). The two colors of bar tape I like are white and brown, I like the look of yellow finishing tape and was kind of surprised that I got a bunch of comments saying to the effect of 'you spent all that time and effort and money on all that ****, then used whatever color tape you had sitting around.'
1985 Trek 620 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
1990 Miyata 1000LT by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
IMG_0220 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr
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#38
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It looks like most of the pictures are gone- but @randyjawa had made some instructions on the site before he put together mytenspeeds.
RandWrapHandlebarTapeGuide
RandWrapHandlebarTapeGuide
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#39
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There are other sellers who have stock. Try Googling Elkhide bicycle bar. There's also at least one other company that makes/sells similar. I believe they're Wanut.
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I'm not knocking it some people get very creative with it as you have due route , but I don't understand the need . Start at the top , over lap once to lock it down finish with the end cap .
IMG_0189 by mark westi, on Flickr
IMG_0189 by mark westi, on Flickr
Tim
Last edited by tkamd73; 01-26-19 at 10:44 AM.
#43
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#44
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What I've homed in on as my tape finishing method over the years is to slant-cut the upper end of the tape over about 3" of the tape's length, and as I finish the bottom-up wrap at the sleeve I apply a couple of drops of contact cement as I complete the wrap.
Then, I take a foot of clear Scotch tape and make 2-3 turns to lock everything down.
It will take care and practice to lay the clear tape layers down without wrinkles and without dirty fingerprints in between the layers, the clear tape stays put and doesn't fray if it is wound on in the top-toward-you direction with the end cut off under the bar.
I like this approach better than electrical tape because the clear tape doesn't unwind itself over time and create a sticky black mess. The gloss of the clear tape might be seen to clash with some tapes but I'm happy with it.
Applying without wrinkles might require following the tape with a fingertip on the slick side where the tape is rolling onto the surface, keeps lateral tension in the tape so it can't wrinkle. And it takes a bit more care to keep the sticky side from grabbing hairs or detritus as it makes it's rounds.
How much stretch to put into the tape depends on how soft the bar tape is. The second and third wraps can wrinkle the first wrap if tension isn't slacked off over a softer bar tape.
Then, I take a foot of clear Scotch tape and make 2-3 turns to lock everything down.
It will take care and practice to lay the clear tape layers down without wrinkles and without dirty fingerprints in between the layers, the clear tape stays put and doesn't fray if it is wound on in the top-toward-you direction with the end cut off under the bar.
I like this approach better than electrical tape because the clear tape doesn't unwind itself over time and create a sticky black mess. The gloss of the clear tape might be seen to clash with some tapes but I'm happy with it.
Applying without wrinkles might require following the tape with a fingertip on the slick side where the tape is rolling onto the surface, keeps lateral tension in the tape so it can't wrinkle. And it takes a bit more care to keep the sticky side from grabbing hairs or detritus as it makes it's rounds.
How much stretch to put into the tape depends on how soft the bar tape is. The second and third wraps can wrinkle the first wrap if tension isn't slacked off over a softer bar tape.
#45
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What I've homed in on as my tape finishing method over the years is to slant-cut the upper end of the tape over about 3" of the tape's length, and as I finish the bottom-up wrap at the sleeve I apply a couple of drops of contact cement as I complete the wrap.
Then, I take a foot of clear Scotch tape and make 2-3 turns to lock everything down.
It will take care and practice to lay the clear tape layers down without wrinkles and without dirty fingerprints in between the layers, the clear tape stays put and doesn't fray if it is wound on in the top-toward-you direction with the end cut off under the bar.
I like this approach better than electrical tape because the clear tape doesn't unwind itself over time and create a sticky black mess. The gloss of the clear tape might be seen to clash with some tapes but I'm happy with it.
Applying without wrinkles might require following the tape with a fingertip on the slick side where the tape is rolling onto the surface, keeps lateral tension in the tape so it can't wrinkle. And it takes a bit more care to keep the sticky side from grabbing hairs or detritus as it makes it's rounds.
How much stretch to put into the tape depends on how soft the bar tape is. The second and third wraps can wrinkle the first wrap if tension isn't slacked off over a softer bar tape.
Then, I take a foot of clear Scotch tape and make 2-3 turns to lock everything down.
It will take care and practice to lay the clear tape layers down without wrinkles and without dirty fingerprints in between the layers, the clear tape stays put and doesn't fray if it is wound on in the top-toward-you direction with the end cut off under the bar.
I like this approach better than electrical tape because the clear tape doesn't unwind itself over time and create a sticky black mess. The gloss of the clear tape might be seen to clash with some tapes but I'm happy with it.
Applying without wrinkles might require following the tape with a fingertip on the slick side where the tape is rolling onto the surface, keeps lateral tension in the tape so it can't wrinkle. And it takes a bit more care to keep the sticky side from grabbing hairs or detritus as it makes it's rounds.
How much stretch to put into the tape depends on how soft the bar tape is. The second and third wraps can wrinkle the first wrap if tension isn't slacked off over a softer bar tape.
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#46
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Miyata 912 '86! First with the splined tubes!
This was my favorite, stitched leather and I used mauve thread to match the pink tuxedo paint job, the bikes been sold and this is the only picture that sort of shows it.
#47
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Thread Starter
I guess I should have titled the thread Finish Wrap as it’s largely not about tape. Oh well.
Here is one done with waxed linen thread over Newbaum’s. I like to burnish with a popsicle stick so it all lays down well.
Here is one done with waxed linen thread over Newbaum’s. I like to burnish with a popsicle stick so it all lays down well.
#48
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Second photo shows the gloss (and the lack of soiling) making the clear stand out on the orange foam tape.
Third photo shows yesterday's hasty re-wrap of old Bike Ribbon using clear tape.
Last photo shows the clear over modern premium Fizik.
I like that the wrap diameter can remain completely constant to the upper ends, due to the constant wrap angle with angled cut over the last 3" of tape.
#50
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There's quite a mix of correctly and incorrectly installed bar tape on this thread !
John.
John.