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Ofmega Super Competizione Hubs : 120 OLD to 126

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Ofmega Super Competizione Hubs : 120 OLD to 126

Old 01-27-19, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by specialmonkey
If I could find spacers nominally 3mm narrower than the current ones (for each side) would that not give me a 126? I'm unsure about how this would affect the freewheel placement / dish, but think it should be OK still?
No, that's backwards. It would need a spacer that is 6mm thicker, not narrower. And only on one side. The NDS never uses a spacer.

If this was a normal hub, you would buy an axles 6mm longer, and add one 6mm spacer to the drive side only. If the wheel was already built up, it would need to be re-dished slightly. This was a very common bike shop task in the 80s.

Originally Posted by specialmonkey
Were 70s 10 speeds spaced for 120? I'd like a 70s Fuji (The Finest or Newest ).
Yes, 99.9% of them were spaced for 120. 126/6 speed started showing up in racing bikes at the very end of the decade.
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Old 01-27-19, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by specialmonkey
When you say cone do you mean the metal inner circle of the cartridge bearing?
No, the nut-like thing that acts as a cone. It's light in color, threads onto the axle, and is secured in place by locking against the lock nut.
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Old 01-27-19, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by specialmonkey
When you say cone do you mean the metal inner circle of the cartridge bearing? With a threaded axle there, it may not be tight enough engagement (in the cartridge bearing) and the threads would almost certainly fold in on themselves.



If I could find spacers nominally 3mm narrower than the current ones (for each side) would that not give me a 126? I'm unsure about how this would affect the freewheel placement / dish, but think it should be OK still? Were 70s 10 speeds spaced for 120? I'd like a 70s Fuji (The Finest or Newest ).
The catalogs are online. Yes they were 120 in the rear. What size do you ride? I have a 23 inch '72 Finest I should move on (but it has some issues).
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Old 01-27-19, 10:53 AM
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Let's backtrack...
Originally Posted by specialmonkey
I've read on bikeforums it's not advisable to make these work in a 126 spaced frame.
True, you don't want to use a hub spaced at 120mm in a 126mm frame.

I don't have any 120 spaced frames... If I were able to find a compatible longer axle, would the skewer still be long enough?
I forgot about the issue of skewer length. This would be a deal breaker for an Ofmega hub (unless you can find one on ebay or somewhere).

You asked about the fragility of the ofmega hub. The skewer nut is aluminum, so you cannot skimp on skewer length. Mine is 153mm long. Yours needs to be in a similar ballpark to use in a 126mm frame. Or you could scrap the Ofmega skewer altogether and use another meant for a 126mm frame.

Can anyone recommend a source for 126 axles that will work?
If the skewer is long enough, I'd like to hear an objection to using a WM 08 in place of the original axle. I can't think of a reason you can't do that or at least try it.

.

Last edited by SurferRosa; 01-27-19 at 11:22 AM.
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Old 01-27-19, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa
Let's backtrack...


True, you don't want to use a hub spaced at 120mm in a 126mm frame.



I forgot about the issue of the skewer length. This would be a deal breaker for an Ofmega hub (unless you can find one on ebay or somewhere).

You asked about the fragility of the ofmega hub. The skewer nut is aluminum, so you cannot skimp on skewer length. Mine is 153mm long. Yours needs to be in a similar ballpark to use in a 126mm frame.



If the skewer is long enough, I'd like to hear an objection to using a WM 08 in place of the original axle. I can't think of a reason you can't do that or at least try it.
The skewer axle itself from last thread of nut side up until the knurled edge of clamp side when wide open is 150, possibly 152mm.

Do you have the WM-08 specs? If it's threaded where it should be smooth (under the cartridge bearing) that would be my objection.

Last edited by specialmonkey; 01-27-19 at 11:33 AM.
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Old 01-27-19, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa
Let's backtrack...


True, you don't want to use a hub spaced at 120mm in a 126mm frame.



I forgot about the issue of the skewer length. This would be a deal breaker for an Ofmega hub (unless you can find one on ebay or somewhere).

You asked about the fragility of the ofmega hub. The skewer nut is aluminum, so you cannot skimp on skewer length. Mine is 153mm long. Yours needs to be in a similar ballpark to use in a 126mm frame.



If the skewer is long enough, I'd like to hear an objection to using a WM 08 in place of the original axle. I can't think of a reason you can't do that or at least try it.
I just respaced a 130mm rear hub to 126mm........
Re-spacing a rear wheel from 130+ to 126. What's really involved??
.......and I found out that the WM08 axle is too long for 126mm spacing. You will need to cut it down to make it work for 126mm.
SurferRosa alerted me to that during my respace.
I cut it down to just a smidge short of 137mm and it worked perfectly.
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Old 01-27-19, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by specialmonkey
If [the replacement axle is] threaded where [the original is] smooth (under the [cone]) that would be my objection.
Why? what's it hurt? Does it not properly support the cone? (I'm asking; I don't know the answer.)
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Old 01-27-19, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Salamandrine
No, that's backwards. It would need a spacer that is 6mm thicker, not narrower. And only on one side. The NDS never uses a spacer.

If this was a normal hub, you would buy an axles 6mm longer, and add one 6mm spacer to the drive side only. If the wheel was already built up, it would need to be re-dished slightly. This was a very common bike shop task in the 80s.



Yes, 99.9% of them were spaced for 120. 126/6 speed started showing up in racing bikes at the very end of the decade.
Thanks for that info. I just measured the spacers and lock nuts, for reference:

the nuts are 6mm
the drive side long spacer is 13.5mm
the nds short spacer is 8.5mm.

axle is 130mm end to end.
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Old 01-27-19, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa
Why? what's it hurt? Does it not properly support the cone? (I'm asking; I don't know the answer.)
I don't know either, it might be fine, but I would still need longer drive side spacer (19.5mm or +6mm to what's there now according to Salamandrine) . I'm guessing the threads would fold and it wouldn't roll smoothly.

Last edited by specialmonkey; 01-27-19 at 11:40 AM.
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Old 01-27-19, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by bikemig
The catalogs are online. Yes they were 120 in the rear. What size do you ride? I have a 23 inch '72 Finest I should move on (but it has some issues).
That's my size, please PM me some pix (do you need any hubs for it )?
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Old 01-27-19, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by specialmonkey
I don't know either, it might be fine, but ... I'm guessing the threads would fold and it wouldn't roll smoothly.
I think this is a new thread (no pun intended) candidate for the mechanics subforum.

Sounds like the skewer is long enough if it's over 150mm.
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Old 01-27-19, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by specialmonkey
That's my size, please PM me some pix (do you need any hubs for it )?
Here's the thread with lots of pics. Bottom line, the bike looks very good. The paint job is in fine shape. The stem is like really stuck and the bike needs an oxalic bath as it has rust on the inside. I think this may be a thing with older Fujis. I picked up another 1972 Fuji Finest (in blue this time) which is in great shape but it too will need an OA bath.

This is the thread:

The stuck stem from heck

Yes those hubs would be lovely on that bike. One thing about a Finest is that it has an amazing amount of room for a fat tire. This bike would make a killer gravel bike.
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Old 01-27-19, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Salamandrine
OK, now you know and so do we. Not nearly as proprietary as the Specialized axles, but still not a standard axle. They simply made a normal axle but didn't thread the ends as far. Even so, I doubt you'll find a replacement in a longer size. You could have a machine shop make one, ....
At any rate, thanks for sharing. It will be helpful in case anyone else runs into this.
Off topic, but what’s proprietary about Specialized axles? Am getting ready to build a wheel, found a Specailzed hub that at one point was going to be a fixed gear hub so had the hollow axle replaced with a solid one. Now I want to turn it back to a QR hub. Dug thru the axle collection and the first one I pulled out looks like it fits. As did two others, and I only ever have had two Specialzed rear hubs. So at least one of the axles must be Shimano. What Makes the SBC axle unique?
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Old 01-27-19, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Spadoni

Off topic, but what’s proprietary about Specialized axles? Am getting ready to build a wheel, found a Specailzed hub that at one point was going to be a fixed gear hub so had the hollow axle replaced with a solid one. Now I want to turn it back to a QR hub. Dug thru the axle collection and the first one I pulled out looks like it fits. As did two others, and I only ever have had two Specialzed rear hubs. So at least one of the axles must be Shimano. What Makes the SBC axle unique?
Thinking about it, maybe I have it bassackwards. I think it was the Specialized/Sansin/Suntour hubs that had the normal axle and sleeve 'cones' to hold the bearings. Suzue had the weird flanged axle with shoulders. Anyone remember? As you probably know, specialized never actually made anything themselves. It's easy to get who OEM'ed for who mixed up after 35 years.
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Old 01-27-19, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa
Why? what's it hurt? Does it not properly support the cone? (I'm asking; I don't know the answer.)
Looking at the pics of the axle it seems there are three different diameters - the 10mm thread, then a smooth diameter larger then the thread where the bearing sits, then another diameter smaller then the bearing diameter with a rougher finish that's cut the majority of the axle length.

A micrometer would be handy at this point. I'd say it's important to have a snug fit on the bearing ID.
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Old 01-27-19, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by GrainBrain
it seems there are three different diameters - the 10mm thread, then a smooth diameter larger than the thread where the bearing sits, then another... A micrometer would be handy at this point.
Oh, you're right. It does look like the axle is bigger where the cone/bearing sit.

I finally got a digital caliper, myself. Was very inexpensive on ebay and seems to work well.
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Old 01-27-19, 07:41 PM
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If you are replacing the axle, try to get one that have rolled threads, instead of cut threads. Axles with rolled threads are less likely to break than ones with cut threads.....
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Old 04-08-20, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by specialmonkey
When you say cone do you mean the metal inner circle of the cartridge bearing? With a threaded axle there, it may not be tight enough engagement (in the cartridge bearing) and the threads would almost certainly fold in on themselves.



If I could find spacers nominally 3mm narrower than the current ones (for each side) would that not give me a 126? I'm unsure about how this would affect the freewheel placement / dish, but think it should be OK still? Were 70s 10 speeds spaced for 120? I'd like a 70s Fuji (The Finest or Newest ).
I think you've got that back-to-front.
You need to ADD 2X3mm (or 6mm on the drive side as someone else said) spacers between the bearings and locknuts to make your 120mm OLN hub axle into a 126mm OLN axle, so it fits correctly between your frame's 126mm drop-out.
If you fitted 3mm NARROWER spacers as you have put, you would reduce the OLN to 114mm and your hub would rattle around in the frame as the rear stays pulled the axle apart (snap it) with the tension on it over the 1st bump in the road.
As an extra comment - I think one of the earlier contributers thought you meant you wanted to open your frame dropouts to 126mm, and showed diagrams of the misalignment this may cause and advised against it.
I think I'm correct that is not your plan as your frame is already 126mm spacing, it is your hub you want to increase the OLN from 120 to 126mm, so you can ignore them!
I hope this helps,
Regards,
Robin.
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