Ofmega Super Competizione Hubs : 120 OLD to 126
#26
Senior Member
If this was a normal hub, you would buy an axles 6mm longer, and add one 6mm spacer to the drive side only. If the wheel was already built up, it would need to be re-dished slightly. This was a very common bike shop task in the 80s.
Yes, 99.9% of them were spaced for 120. 126/6 speed started showing up in racing bikes at the very end of the decade.
#27
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 8,284
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3846 Post(s)
Liked 6,437 Times
in
3,183 Posts
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,505
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5877 Post(s)
Liked 3,445 Times
in
2,066 Posts
When you say cone do you mean the metal inner circle of the cartridge bearing? With a threaded axle there, it may not be tight enough engagement (in the cartridge bearing) and the threads would almost certainly fold in on themselves.
If I could find spacers nominally 3mm narrower than the current ones (for each side) would that not give me a 126? I'm unsure about how this would affect the freewheel placement / dish, but think it should be OK still? Were 70s 10 speeds spaced for 120? I'd like a 70s Fuji (The Finest or Newest ).
If I could find spacers nominally 3mm narrower than the current ones (for each side) would that not give me a 126? I'm unsure about how this would affect the freewheel placement / dish, but think it should be OK still? Were 70s 10 speeds spaced for 120? I'd like a 70s Fuji (The Finest or Newest ).
#29
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 8,284
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3846 Post(s)
Liked 6,437 Times
in
3,183 Posts
Let's backtrack...
True, you don't want to use a hub spaced at 120mm in a 126mm frame.
I forgot about the issue of skewer length. This would be a deal breaker for an Ofmega hub (unless you can find one on ebay or somewhere).
You asked about the fragility of the ofmega hub. The skewer nut is aluminum, so you cannot skimp on skewer length. Mine is 153mm long. Yours needs to be in a similar ballpark to use in a 126mm frame. Or you could scrap the Ofmega skewer altogether and use another meant for a 126mm frame.
If the skewer is long enough, I'd like to hear an objection to using a WM 08 in place of the original axle. I can't think of a reason you can't do that or at least try it.
.
I've read on bikeforums it's not advisable to make these work in a 126 spaced frame.
I don't have any 120 spaced frames... If I were able to find a compatible longer axle, would the skewer still be long enough?
You asked about the fragility of the ofmega hub. The skewer nut is aluminum, so you cannot skimp on skewer length. Mine is 153mm long. Yours needs to be in a similar ballpark to use in a 126mm frame. Or you could scrap the Ofmega skewer altogether and use another meant for a 126mm frame.
Can anyone recommend a source for 126 axles that will work?
.
Last edited by SurferRosa; 01-27-19 at 11:22 AM.
#30
Fillet-Brazed Member
Thread Starter
Let's backtrack...
True, you don't want to use a hub spaced at 120mm in a 126mm frame.
I forgot about the issue of the skewer length. This would be a deal breaker for an Ofmega hub (unless you can find one on ebay or somewhere).
You asked about the fragility of the ofmega hub. The skewer nut is aluminum, so you cannot skimp on skewer length. Mine is 153mm long. Yours needs to be in a similar ballpark to use in a 126mm frame.
If the skewer is long enough, I'd like to hear an objection to using a WM 08 in place of the original axle. I can't think of a reason you can't do that or at least try it.
True, you don't want to use a hub spaced at 120mm in a 126mm frame.
I forgot about the issue of the skewer length. This would be a deal breaker for an Ofmega hub (unless you can find one on ebay or somewhere).
You asked about the fragility of the ofmega hub. The skewer nut is aluminum, so you cannot skimp on skewer length. Mine is 153mm long. Yours needs to be in a similar ballpark to use in a 126mm frame.
If the skewer is long enough, I'd like to hear an objection to using a WM 08 in place of the original axle. I can't think of a reason you can't do that or at least try it.
Do you have the WM-08 specs? If it's threaded where it should be smooth (under the cartridge bearing) that would be my objection.
Last edited by specialmonkey; 01-27-19 at 11:33 AM.
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,457
Mentioned: 102 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1629 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 814 Times
in
527 Posts
Let's backtrack...
True, you don't want to use a hub spaced at 120mm in a 126mm frame.
I forgot about the issue of the skewer length. This would be a deal breaker for an Ofmega hub (unless you can find one on ebay or somewhere).
You asked about the fragility of the ofmega hub. The skewer nut is aluminum, so you cannot skimp on skewer length. Mine is 153mm long. Yours needs to be in a similar ballpark to use in a 126mm frame.
If the skewer is long enough, I'd like to hear an objection to using a WM 08 in place of the original axle. I can't think of a reason you can't do that or at least try it.
True, you don't want to use a hub spaced at 120mm in a 126mm frame.
I forgot about the issue of the skewer length. This would be a deal breaker for an Ofmega hub (unless you can find one on ebay or somewhere).
You asked about the fragility of the ofmega hub. The skewer nut is aluminum, so you cannot skimp on skewer length. Mine is 153mm long. Yours needs to be in a similar ballpark to use in a 126mm frame.
If the skewer is long enough, I'd like to hear an objection to using a WM 08 in place of the original axle. I can't think of a reason you can't do that or at least try it.
Re-spacing a rear wheel from 130+ to 126. What's really involved??
.......and I found out that the WM08 axle is too long for 126mm spacing. You will need to cut it down to make it work for 126mm.
SurferRosa alerted me to that during my respace.
I cut it down to just a smidge short of 137mm and it worked perfectly.
__________________
72 Line Seeker
83 Davidson Signature
84 Peugeot PSV
84 Peugeot PY10FC
84 Gitane Tour de France.
85 Vitus Plus Carbone 7
86 ALAN Record Carbonio
86 Medici Aerodynamic (Project)
88 Pinarello Montello
89 Bottecchia Professional Chorus SL
95 Trek 5500 OCLV (Project)
72 Line Seeker
83 Davidson Signature
84 Peugeot PSV
84 Peugeot PY10FC
84 Gitane Tour de France.
85 Vitus Plus Carbone 7
86 ALAN Record Carbonio
86 Medici Aerodynamic (Project)
88 Pinarello Montello
89 Bottecchia Professional Chorus SL
95 Trek 5500 OCLV (Project)
Last edited by Chombi1; 01-27-19 at 11:39 AM.
#32
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 8,284
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3846 Post(s)
Liked 6,437 Times
in
3,183 Posts
#33
Fillet-Brazed Member
Thread Starter
No, that's backwards. It would need a spacer that is 6mm thicker, not narrower. And only on one side. The NDS never uses a spacer.
If this was a normal hub, you would buy an axles 6mm longer, and add one 6mm spacer to the drive side only. If the wheel was already built up, it would need to be re-dished slightly. This was a very common bike shop task in the 80s.
Yes, 99.9% of them were spaced for 120. 126/6 speed started showing up in racing bikes at the very end of the decade.
If this was a normal hub, you would buy an axles 6mm longer, and add one 6mm spacer to the drive side only. If the wheel was already built up, it would need to be re-dished slightly. This was a very common bike shop task in the 80s.
Yes, 99.9% of them were spaced for 120. 126/6 speed started showing up in racing bikes at the very end of the decade.
the nuts are 6mm
the drive side long spacer is 13.5mm
the nds short spacer is 8.5mm.
axle is 130mm end to end.
#34
Fillet-Brazed Member
Thread Starter
I don't know either, it might be fine, but I would still need longer drive side spacer (19.5mm or +6mm to what's there now according to Salamandrine) . I'm guessing the threads would fold and it wouldn't roll smoothly.
Last edited by specialmonkey; 01-27-19 at 11:40 AM.
#35
Fillet-Brazed Member
Thread Starter
#36
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 8,284
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3846 Post(s)
Liked 6,437 Times
in
3,183 Posts
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,505
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5877 Post(s)
Liked 3,445 Times
in
2,066 Posts
This is the thread:
The stuck stem from heck
Yes those hubs would be lovely on that bike. One thing about a Finest is that it has an amazing amount of room for a fat tire. This bike would make a killer gravel bike.
#38
Senior Member
OK, now you know and so do we. Not nearly as proprietary as the Specialized axles, but still not a standard axle. They simply made a normal axle but didn't thread the ends as far. Even so, I doubt you'll find a replacement in a longer size. You could have a machine shop make one, ....
At any rate, thanks for sharing. It will be helpful in case anyone else runs into this.
At any rate, thanks for sharing. It will be helpful in case anyone else runs into this.
#39
Senior Member
Off topic, but what’s proprietary about Specialized axles? Am getting ready to build a wheel, found a Specailzed hub that at one point was going to be a fixed gear hub so had the hollow axle replaced with a solid one. Now I want to turn it back to a QR hub. Dug thru the axle collection and the first one I pulled out looks like it fits. As did two others, and I only ever have had two Specialzed rear hubs. So at least one of the axles must be Shimano. What Makes the SBC axle unique?
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Central Io-way
Posts: 2,655
Bikes: LeMond Zurich, Giant Talon 29er
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1218 Post(s)
Liked 609 Times
in
458 Posts
A micrometer would be handy at this point. I'd say it's important to have a snug fit on the bearing ID.
#41
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 8,284
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3846 Post(s)
Liked 6,437 Times
in
3,183 Posts
I finally got a digital caliper, myself. Was very inexpensive on ebay and seems to work well.
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 4,457
Mentioned: 102 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1629 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 814 Times
in
527 Posts
If you are replacing the axle, try to get one that have rolled threads, instead of cut threads. Axles with rolled threads are less likely to break than ones with cut threads.....
__________________
72 Line Seeker
83 Davidson Signature
84 Peugeot PSV
84 Peugeot PY10FC
84 Gitane Tour de France.
85 Vitus Plus Carbone 7
86 ALAN Record Carbonio
86 Medici Aerodynamic (Project)
88 Pinarello Montello
89 Bottecchia Professional Chorus SL
95 Trek 5500 OCLV (Project)
72 Line Seeker
83 Davidson Signature
84 Peugeot PSV
84 Peugeot PY10FC
84 Gitane Tour de France.
85 Vitus Plus Carbone 7
86 ALAN Record Carbonio
86 Medici Aerodynamic (Project)
88 Pinarello Montello
89 Bottecchia Professional Chorus SL
95 Trek 5500 OCLV (Project)
#43
Junior Member
When you say cone do you mean the metal inner circle of the cartridge bearing? With a threaded axle there, it may not be tight enough engagement (in the cartridge bearing) and the threads would almost certainly fold in on themselves.
If I could find spacers nominally 3mm narrower than the current ones (for each side) would that not give me a 126? I'm unsure about how this would affect the freewheel placement / dish, but think it should be OK still? Were 70s 10 speeds spaced for 120? I'd like a 70s Fuji (The Finest or Newest ).
If I could find spacers nominally 3mm narrower than the current ones (for each side) would that not give me a 126? I'm unsure about how this would affect the freewheel placement / dish, but think it should be OK still? Were 70s 10 speeds spaced for 120? I'd like a 70s Fuji (The Finest or Newest ).
You need to ADD 2X3mm (or 6mm on the drive side as someone else said) spacers between the bearings and locknuts to make your 120mm OLN hub axle into a 126mm OLN axle, so it fits correctly between your frame's 126mm drop-out.
If you fitted 3mm NARROWER spacers as you have put, you would reduce the OLN to 114mm and your hub would rattle around in the frame as the rear stays pulled the axle apart (snap it) with the tension on it over the 1st bump in the road.
As an extra comment - I think one of the earlier contributers thought you meant you wanted to open your frame dropouts to 126mm, and showed diagrams of the misalignment this may cause and advised against it.
I think I'm correct that is not your plan as your frame is already 126mm spacing, it is your hub you want to increase the OLN from 120 to 126mm, so you can ignore them!
I hope this helps,
Regards,
Robin.