Miyata 1000 questions
02-18-19, 07:00 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Miyata 1000 questions
I came by a 1981 Miyata 1000 in my size (!). Kind of scuffy on the outside but pristine on the inside. I’m thinking that some woman received the bike from her man in hopes that she’d enthusiastically join him in serious touring. From the many chips on the chainstay, my story is that she was not initially skilled in handling the shifting and had a lot of chain-chainstay contact. My story continues with her telling her man where he could put that bike. It’s since been subject to banging around storage areas, judging from the many chips on the royal blue paint. (I intend to celebrate the beausage with some light steel wool application and then clear coat over the bare metal bits.). Now for the questions:
I want to switch the crankset from the half-step plus granny SR Apex original to a Sugino AT that I have in my parts bin. Sheldon Brown’s comparability chart indicates that the original bottom bracket spindle should work @127.5mm. Does anyone have experience with this? It looks as if it should have plenty of clearance from eyeball measurement.
The original wheels are REALLY heavy! Even after removing what I suspect were the original tires and tubes. What do most people do with wheels on these bikes? Enjoy the sturdiness of the original design? Replace with lighter rims and spokes? I kind of like the robustness of them, but wonder how they affect performance ...
More questions (and pics) to come.
I want to switch the crankset from the half-step plus granny SR Apex original to a Sugino AT that I have in my parts bin. Sheldon Brown’s comparability chart indicates that the original bottom bracket spindle should work @127.5mm. Does anyone have experience with this? It looks as if it should have plenty of clearance from eyeball measurement.
The original wheels are REALLY heavy! Even after removing what I suspect were the original tires and tubes. What do most people do with wheels on these bikes? Enjoy the sturdiness of the original design? Replace with lighter rims and spokes? I kind of like the robustness of them, but wonder how they affect performance ...
More questions (and pics) to come.
Likes For Honusms:
02-18-19, 07:21 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,433
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,470 Times
in
2,079 Posts
Nice bike. I'd want to find a paint to touch up the frame with and then wax it.
The BB should work fine but the best way is just trial and error.
There's nothing wrong with half step gearing (and if you have only 5 or 6 on the back, there is something to be said for half step gearing) but crossover is easier to figure out. So I think the crank change is a good idea. You can always sell the SR apex.
The wheels are designed for touring. Personally I'd ride the original wheels and just get new tires. It's not as if this is a lightweight bike.
The BB should work fine but the best way is just trial and error.
There's nothing wrong with half step gearing (and if you have only 5 or 6 on the back, there is something to be said for half step gearing) but crossover is easier to figure out. So I think the crank change is a good idea. You can always sell the SR apex.
The wheels are designed for touring. Personally I'd ride the original wheels and just get new tires. It's not as if this is a lightweight bike.
02-18-19, 08:11 PM
#3
Senior Member
Definitely a nice bike.
Personally I would scrap the original parts and build a new bike up from the frame. If you want to do this on a budget, swap out one part at a time.
The Miyata 1000 was a great bang for buck, but like a lot of (all...) bike companies, Miyata would try to save money here or there by skimping on parts most people wouldn't notice. The frame itself is Tange #2 and functionally it will be equivalent to any top end euro touring frame. Actually, I like them better than most. They had a sporty ride for a touring frame. What I'm trying to say awkwardly is that it's not inappropriate to hang some top shelf parts on that thing. It actually can be a lightweight bike, if the components on it are lightweight.
Anyway, I agree that the best approach for the crank is try and fit. Maybe it will work. If not, buy a new cartridge sealed BB and be happier.
IMO there was a tendency to go way way too heavy on touring wheels. BITD I had the UV version of this bike, I followed the common wisdom of the time and dutifully built up some heavy 27" wheels. Then I decided it was ridiculous. I read in Sloane that people used to tour on sew ups, so I borrowed some training sew up wheels from my race bike. I then went on a 3 week loaded tour, and had zero problems. If you ride with finesse, basic road wheels work just fine. Consider building up new wheels. I suggest something like TB14 36h rims, modern butted spokes, and whatever hubs you like.
If it were mine I'd powder coat, as IME the original paint on these wasn't that good. Just my opinion though. I can understand you wanting to preserve the beausage for sure. I'd put wax on it for some protection.
Personally I would scrap the original parts and build a new bike up from the frame. If you want to do this on a budget, swap out one part at a time.
The Miyata 1000 was a great bang for buck, but like a lot of (all...) bike companies, Miyata would try to save money here or there by skimping on parts most people wouldn't notice. The frame itself is Tange #2 and functionally it will be equivalent to any top end euro touring frame. Actually, I like them better than most. They had a sporty ride for a touring frame. What I'm trying to say awkwardly is that it's not inappropriate to hang some top shelf parts on that thing. It actually can be a lightweight bike, if the components on it are lightweight.
Anyway, I agree that the best approach for the crank is try and fit. Maybe it will work. If not, buy a new cartridge sealed BB and be happier.
IMO there was a tendency to go way way too heavy on touring wheels. BITD I had the UV version of this bike, I followed the common wisdom of the time and dutifully built up some heavy 27" wheels. Then I decided it was ridiculous. I read in Sloane that people used to tour on sew ups, so I borrowed some training sew up wheels from my race bike. I then went on a 3 week loaded tour, and had zero problems. If you ride with finesse, basic road wheels work just fine. Consider building up new wheels. I suggest something like TB14 36h rims, modern butted spokes, and whatever hubs you like.
If it were mine I'd powder coat, as IME the original paint on these wasn't that good. Just my opinion though. I can understand you wanting to preserve the beausage for sure. I'd put wax on it for some protection.
02-18-19, 09:15 PM
#4
Full Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies. My concept for this bike is to have a lovely rider that I don’t hesitate to lock up to a bike rack outside a restaurant or the grocery store. I have others that are terrific fun, but are too pretty to risk banging around with other parked bikes. Touch up paint in strategic spots may just be the ticket. (And a good wax job after some rubbing compound.)
It came with Suntour Cyclone derailleurs - GT in the rear, which is a real plus! The Suntour Pro Compe cluster is also nice (not much evidence that it ever was used) although I have a NOS Perfect one that’s a little wider range.
Has anyone had trouble with cantilever brake reach with 700C wheels? I really don’t mind the 27s - am tempted to try the Swift Tire 27X35 with them. The old tires - when I could finally pry them loose - were pretty hefty. Lots of steel in them.
Any further observations and suggestions are welcome!
It came with Suntour Cyclone derailleurs - GT in the rear, which is a real plus! The Suntour Pro Compe cluster is also nice (not much evidence that it ever was used) although I have a NOS Perfect one that’s a little wider range.
Has anyone had trouble with cantilever brake reach with 700C wheels? I really don’t mind the 27s - am tempted to try the Swift Tire 27X35 with them. The old tires - when I could finally pry them loose - were pretty hefty. Lots of steel in them.
Any further observations and suggestions are welcome!
02-19-19, 12:03 AM
#5
Master Parts Rearranger
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portlandia's Kuiper Belt, OR
Posts: 4,402
Bikes: 1982 Trek 720 - 1985 Trek 620 - 1984 Trek 620 - 1980 Trek 510 - Other luminaries past and present
Mentioned: 221 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1556 Post(s)
Liked 2,024 Times
in
989 Posts
Former 1982 Miyata 1000 owner here. 27" to 700C wheel conversion was easy to do. I had Dia Compe 960 cantis--ones that could adjust angle to braking surface as well as toe-in. That's crucial: to be able to "lay out" the canti arms and angle in the pad/post combo. That get's you the 4mm drop. Works well, too. 1000s definitely have a regality to the way they ride, which is a standout feature. Their top tubes, at least in 63.5cm form, are a touch shorter than normal. So the combination of longer stem/bar/lever reach with higher geometric trail (59mm or so), slack head tube angle, and simply being well-made and of good steel, made for great steering. My '90 Cannondale ST has some of those traits, but it's a strong frame that's happier carrying more (and more easily) and thus less supple in that regard (unloaded or very lightly loaded). All that blather to say that you will likely enjoy riding your 1000, even if it's just for short jaunts. They are special!
02-19-19, 01:24 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,989
Bikes: ‘87 Marinoni SLX Sports Tourer, ‘79 Miyata 912 by Gugificazione
Mentioned: 166 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 500 Post(s)
Liked 466 Times
in
256 Posts
My Sugino AT crank has a near perfect chainline and decently low Q-Factor with a 127mm BB plus spacers to create the desired asymmetry. So your existing 127.5 should do very nicely.
I had a lovely ride on @RiddleOfSteel’s Miyata 1000 before he sent it on its way. It was/is a lovely bike, more nimble and fun than many tourers, much more sports tourer than loaded touring, but many report that it’s one of the best with a load, too. Congratulations! It will build up well with just about anything,
I had a lovely ride on @RiddleOfSteel’s Miyata 1000 before he sent it on its way. It was/is a lovely bike, more nimble and fun than many tourers, much more sports tourer than loaded touring, but many report that it’s one of the best with a load, too. Congratulations! It will build up well with just about anything,
02-19-19, 07:52 AM
#7
Señor Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Hardy, VA
Posts: 17,921
Bikes: Mostly English - predominantly Raleighs
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1491 Post(s)
Liked 1,088 Times
in
637 Posts
I'm in the process of renewing the 1981 Miyata that I picked up for my wife a couple years back. Some rust had snuck in - to the point where repainting seemed the best solution. In the process, am making it shinier and a bit more functional. Everything worked, but I decided to go with 700c wheels (have the rims. getting the hubs), new brakes and front derailleur. It isn't finished yet, but I am confident it will come together nicely.
I used to own a 210, and from the little bit I rode the 1000, the 1000 rides notably more like a sport bike than the 210 did. Hard to go wrong with something this versatile.
I used to own a 210, and from the little bit I rode the 1000, the 1000 rides notably more like a sport bike than the 210 did. Hard to go wrong with something this versatile.
__________________
In search of what to search for.
In search of what to search for.
02-19-19, 05:08 PM
#8
Banned.
Regarding the chain slap on the stay...
I have found that usually happens due to a misaligned RD hanger or a RD that got sucked into the spokes and had the cage bent. Check both.
I have found that usually happens due to a misaligned RD hanger or a RD that got sucked into the spokes and had the cage bent. Check both.
02-19-19, 06:48 PM
#9
Master Parts Rearranger
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portlandia's Kuiper Belt, OR
Posts: 4,402
Bikes: 1982 Trek 720 - 1985 Trek 620 - 1984 Trek 620 - 1980 Trek 510 - Other luminaries past and present
Mentioned: 221 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1556 Post(s)
Liked 2,024 Times
in
989 Posts
Or just really crummy roads or bumps that were unavoidable. It's the reason chain stay protectors exist! 
02-19-19, 10:31 PM
#10
Senior Member
OP: Stealth bike - I get it. Maybe wrap up the right chainstay with cotton tape after doing some touch up to protect the steel. Add a few stickers here and there to cover up the worst bits, and make the bike look cheaper. I'd still go for some nice wheels. As we used to say, wheels and tires are half the bike. The Swift tires are a good idea. Those alone may be enough.
700c isn't a problem as you can see from RofS's post above, should you want to go this route. We were just discussing this in another thread. You will need vintage or vintagey cantis. GC960 adjusted out will work. Dia Compe 988 are still in production, and may work even better since they have some vertical adjustment.
02-19-19, 10:43 PM
#11
ambulatory senior
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Peoria Il
Posts: 5,998
Bikes: Austro Daimler modified by Gugie! Raleigh Professional and lots of other bikes.
Mentioned: 76 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1954 Post(s)
Liked 3,657 Times
in
1,677 Posts
I have an 81 1000 as well. Its a bigger frame but had similar components and heavy wheels. I built 700c wheels for it with a 126mm hub. I used a different crank as well because i wanted a lower low gear. The frameset is very comfortable. Lots of give and a good all day rider in my exp. I even had it setup for a while with a 3 speed hub. Great frame.
02-20-19, 01:00 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Port Angeles, WA
Posts: 7,922
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
Mentioned: 194 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1627 Post(s)
Liked 630 Times
in
356 Posts
My '81 has the original wheels, and yeah, it feels a little heavy. I swapped wheels back and forth a few times with the Wolbers on my newer ('88) Voyageur, and didn't really notice that much difference. Overall, the bike feels stable and comfy, but not exactly sprightly.
I should try one of my more modern wheel sets on it and see if that makes any difference. @Honusms, your frame looks pretty much exactly like a'81 Miata 1000 I sold on eBay a couple years back - same size, same color, same patina. But mine went out as just a frame and brake calipers, so no. And if you're riding a bike that is that small, I'm guessing you weigh a lot less than me and can get by fine with a lighter wheel set if you want. Plenty of choices out there.
I should try one of my more modern wheel sets on it and see if that makes any difference. @Honusms, your frame looks pretty much exactly like a'81 Miata 1000 I sold on eBay a couple years back - same size, same color, same patina. But mine went out as just a frame and brake calipers, so no. And if you're riding a bike that is that small, I'm guessing you weigh a lot less than me and can get by fine with a lighter wheel set if you want. Plenty of choices out there.
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 02-20-19 at 09:59 AM.
02-20-19, 02:15 AM
#13
Master Parts Rearranger
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portlandia's Kuiper Belt, OR
Posts: 4,402
Bikes: 1982 Trek 720 - 1985 Trek 620 - 1984 Trek 620 - 1980 Trek 510 - Other luminaries past and present
Mentioned: 221 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1556 Post(s)
Liked 2,024 Times
in
989 Posts
My '81 has the original wheels, and yeah, it feels a little heavy. I swapped wheels back and forth a few times with the Wolbers on my newer ('88) Voyageur, and didn't really notice that much difference. Oral, the bike feels stable and comfy, but not exactly sprightly.
I should try one of my more modern wheel sets on it and see if that makes any difference. @Honusms, your frame looks pretty much exactly like a'81 Miata 1000 I sold on eBay a couple years back - same size, same color, same patina. But mine went out as just a frame and brake calipers, so no. And if you're riding a bike that is that small, I'm guessing you weigh a lot less than me and can get by fine with a lighter wheel set if you want. Plenty of choices out there.
I should try one of my more modern wheel sets on it and see if that makes any difference. @Honusms, your frame looks pretty much exactly like a'81 Miata 1000 I sold on eBay a couple years back - same size, same color, same patina. But mine went out as just a frame and brake calipers, so no. And if you're riding a bike that is that small, I'm guessing you weigh a lot less than me and can get by fine with a lighter wheel set if you want. Plenty of choices out there.
02-20-19, 06:55 AM
#14
Full Member
Thread Starter
Since I’m female and about 125#, weight-bearing is not a big issue. I built up some CR-18 rims (27”) with Normandy Luxe hubs for my Moto Grand Record and they are nice and light. I also have a 700C set with campy record hubs from another build that I’ll try with the current canti brakes after I’ve polished and re-installed them. Maybe I’ll go one of those ways eventually, but for now I think I’ll stick with the originals to see how they feel.
The original tires were a bear to remove - sort of welded to the rims. Also bonded with the tubes in some places. Can’t wait to try the Swift Tires/Panaracer 35mms.
Thanks for the derailleur hanger alighnment reminder!
The original tires were a bear to remove - sort of welded to the rims. Also bonded with the tubes in some places. Can’t wait to try the Swift Tires/Panaracer 35mms.
Thanks for the derailleur hanger alighnment reminder!
02-20-19, 07:41 AM
#15
ambulatory senior
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Peoria Il
Posts: 5,998
Bikes: Austro Daimler modified by Gugie! Raleigh Professional and lots of other bikes.
Mentioned: 76 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1954 Post(s)
Liked 3,657 Times
in
1,677 Posts
Since I’m female and about 125#, weight-bearing is not a big issue. I built up some CR-18 rims (27”) with Normandy Luxe hubs for my Moto Grand Record and they are nice and light. I also have a 700C set with campy record hubs from another build that I’ll try with the current canti brakes after I’ve polished and re-installed them. Maybe I’ll go one of those ways eventually, but for now I think I’ll stick with the originals to see how they feel.
The original tires were a bear to remove - sort of welded to the rims. Also bonded with the tubes in some places. Can’t wait to try the Swift Tires/Panaracer 35mms.
Thanks for the derailleur hanger alighnment reminder!
The original tires were a bear to remove - sort of welded to the rims. Also bonded with the tubes in some places. Can’t wait to try the Swift Tires/Panaracer 35mms.
Thanks for the derailleur hanger alighnment reminder!
02-23-19, 07:32 PM
#16
Extraordinary Magnitude
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 13,642
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2607 Post(s)
Liked 1,694 Times
in
933 Posts
Hi and welcome to the Miyata 1000 Owners' Club! Your membership card and the passcode to the secret clubhouse are in the mail and once you're in, we'll show you the secret handshake.
Granted- my Miyata 1000LT is a 1990 model- a lot of the same things apply- this was a top tier touring bike- before mountain bikes ruled- "touring" was the buzz word. You'll still see all kinds of bikes referred to as "touring bikes." As such, a lot of companies made their top tier touring bikes the flagship representative of the company.
Keep in mind, the concept of the flagship touring bike up until sometime after 1985 was a bike with all-day, long distance, stable, load bearing geometry, Class A or B components, and tubing that was strong but lightweight- and prestigious enough to brag about. So what constituted a world class touring bike back then would be more like a light tourer now with the expedition type bikes these days. I think it's neat to see the evolution of the touring bike from "a bike with a rack" in the mid 70s to a specialized machine by the mid 80s into a more burly and a little less glamorous bike to the beastly expedition machines of today. The 80s bikes were sturdy for their time, but the prestige of quality tubing and light weight took precedence over stiffness. The reputation of the Miyata 1000 has really benefitted from Sheldon Brown's recommendation, and because of that the bikes go for a premium, regardless of the year.
What I love about old touring bikes is that smooth, stable ride. I liken it to a 1972 Cadillac Eldorado. The long chainstays, the somewhat burly, yet still flexible wheelbase make for a great ride. It's not quick, not exactly "responsive," but it is smooth. The components have a certain elegance of being both pretty and badass at the same time. It's a cruiser without being 60 pounds. My 1990 Miyata 1000LT is much more stiff than any of my other tourers- but it's a much later bike and it still has that smooth long wheelbase ride. To me, a flagship level touring bike is totally worthy of hanging the best quality, prettiest and appropriate parts on it. With your bike, 81 is a little early for a lot of ATB/MTB parts- but you get to make the rules for what you put on there. I used to be much more of a "period correct" person (actually more "period-ish"- old parts that someone may have upgraded to at a later time) but after changing one bike to 10 speed... it's "game on." As long as it fits my own particular... ...idiom- and it works great and is pretty- it's a go, regardless of the year it was made. With my Miyata, it was mostly built with Deore/Deore DX parts (2nd from top of the line), so I built it up with some stock parts and some upgraded period-ish XT and XTR stuff.
Again, you get to make the rules for your build... If you're going for a period-ish, lightweight, yet "business" build- That Sugino AT is probably the all time best triple crank... then something like Cyclone GT/Cyclone MII derailleurs, Suntour Barcons, DiaCompe 981 cantis, GranCompe brake levers...
Good luck and looking forward to more pix as you go!!
Granted- my Miyata 1000LT is a 1990 model- a lot of the same things apply- this was a top tier touring bike- before mountain bikes ruled- "touring" was the buzz word. You'll still see all kinds of bikes referred to as "touring bikes." As such, a lot of companies made their top tier touring bikes the flagship representative of the company.
Keep in mind, the concept of the flagship touring bike up until sometime after 1985 was a bike with all-day, long distance, stable, load bearing geometry, Class A or B components, and tubing that was strong but lightweight- and prestigious enough to brag about. So what constituted a world class touring bike back then would be more like a light tourer now with the expedition type bikes these days. I think it's neat to see the evolution of the touring bike from "a bike with a rack" in the mid 70s to a specialized machine by the mid 80s into a more burly and a little less glamorous bike to the beastly expedition machines of today. The 80s bikes were sturdy for their time, but the prestige of quality tubing and light weight took precedence over stiffness. The reputation of the Miyata 1000 has really benefitted from Sheldon Brown's recommendation, and because of that the bikes go for a premium, regardless of the year.
What I love about old touring bikes is that smooth, stable ride. I liken it to a 1972 Cadillac Eldorado. The long chainstays, the somewhat burly, yet still flexible wheelbase make for a great ride. It's not quick, not exactly "responsive," but it is smooth. The components have a certain elegance of being both pretty and badass at the same time. It's a cruiser without being 60 pounds. My 1990 Miyata 1000LT is much more stiff than any of my other tourers- but it's a much later bike and it still has that smooth long wheelbase ride. To me, a flagship level touring bike is totally worthy of hanging the best quality, prettiest and appropriate parts on it. With your bike, 81 is a little early for a lot of ATB/MTB parts- but you get to make the rules for what you put on there. I used to be much more of a "period correct" person (actually more "period-ish"- old parts that someone may have upgraded to at a later time) but after changing one bike to 10 speed... it's "game on." As long as it fits my own particular... ...idiom- and it works great and is pretty- it's a go, regardless of the year it was made. With my Miyata, it was mostly built with Deore/Deore DX parts (2nd from top of the line), so I built it up with some stock parts and some upgraded period-ish XT and XTR stuff.
Again, you get to make the rules for your build... If you're going for a period-ish, lightweight, yet "business" build- That Sugino AT is probably the all time best triple crank... then something like Cyclone GT/Cyclone MII derailleurs, Suntour Barcons, DiaCompe 981 cantis, GranCompe brake levers...
Good luck and looking forward to more pix as you go!!
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
02-24-19, 05:15 PM
#17
Full Member
Thread Starter
Progress
First pass at making it rideable:
- Frame cleaned, buffed and waxed
- Hubs, bottom bracket, pedals and headset serviced. (Broke 2 reflectors on pedals, may or may not replace).
- Sugino AT crankset installed with original bottom bracket spindle. Perfect chainline!!!!!!!
- Original freewheel retained for now as it has no wear. Aluminum dork disc stays.
- Original canti brakes retained. Still need to install new Kool-stops, although stopping is robust (but noisy) with the 38 year old pads.
- Suntour Cyclone GT rear derailleur and Cyclone front derailleur retained
- Original Suntour ratchet shifters retained. These are my favorite downtube shifters. I have a pair of barcons that I could use, but maybe later.
- Cable housings replaced with Velo Orange metallic braid ones. Very stiff but so pretty!
- Original Dia Compe brake levers retained.
- Brooks leather bar tape installed.
- Puffy Trek saddle replace with Brooks Professional S
- SwiftTire Sand Canyon 35 tires installed on original rims, which are not really heavy once the old tires were scraped off.
It’s everything The Golden Boy claims. A smoooooth rider. Not agile in the corners, but so stable. Not a heavyweight by any means, especially with its new tires. Next up: fenders and racks!
- Frame cleaned, buffed and waxed
- Hubs, bottom bracket, pedals and headset serviced. (Broke 2 reflectors on pedals, may or may not replace).
- Sugino AT crankset installed with original bottom bracket spindle. Perfect chainline!!!!!!!
- Original freewheel retained for now as it has no wear. Aluminum dork disc stays.
- Original canti brakes retained. Still need to install new Kool-stops, although stopping is robust (but noisy) with the 38 year old pads.
- Suntour Cyclone GT rear derailleur and Cyclone front derailleur retained
- Original Suntour ratchet shifters retained. These are my favorite downtube shifters. I have a pair of barcons that I could use, but maybe later.
- Cable housings replaced with Velo Orange metallic braid ones. Very stiff but so pretty!
- Original Dia Compe brake levers retained.
- Brooks leather bar tape installed.
- Puffy Trek saddle replace with Brooks Professional S
- SwiftTire Sand Canyon 35 tires installed on original rims, which are not really heavy once the old tires were scraped off.
It’s everything The Golden Boy claims. A smoooooth rider. Not agile in the corners, but so stable. Not a heavyweight by any means, especially with its new tires. Next up: fenders and racks!
02-24-19, 06:23 PM
#18
Phyllo-buster
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,844
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2296 Post(s)
Liked 2,046 Times
in
1,253 Posts
Not sure what was stock but nice choices on the build, especially the Mighty power shifters. They're dependable and bombproof. Hoods for the brake levers, your racks and maybe mudguards would round it out. 
02-24-19, 06:57 PM
#19
Full Member
Thread Starter
Yes, indeed - brake hoods and fenders (mudguards) are on order .
.
02-25-19, 01:44 AM
#20
Master Parts Rearranger
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portlandia's Kuiper Belt, OR
Posts: 4,402
Bikes: 1982 Trek 720 - 1985 Trek 620 - 1984 Trek 620 - 1980 Trek 510 - Other luminaries past and present
Mentioned: 221 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1556 Post(s)
Liked 2,024 Times
in
989 Posts
Lovely 1000! Glad the ride quality matches what the rest of us have experienced as it means you get to experience it too!
02-25-19, 08:56 AM
#21
Extraordinary Magnitude
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 13,642
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2607 Post(s)
Liked 1,694 Times
in
933 Posts
First pass at making it rideable:
- Frame cleaned, buffed and waxed
- Hubs, bottom bracket, pedals and headset serviced. (Broke 2 reflectors on pedals, may or may not replace).
- Sugino AT crankset installed with original bottom bracket spindle. Perfect chainline!!!!!!!
- Aluminum dork disc stays.
- Original canti brakes retained. Still need to install new Kool-stops, although stopping is robust (but noisy) with the 38 year old pads.
- Suntour Cyclone GT rear derailleur and Cyclone front derailleur retained
- Original Dia Compe brake levers retained.
- Frame cleaned, buffed and waxed
- Hubs, bottom bracket, pedals and headset serviced. (Broke 2 reflectors on pedals, may or may not replace).
- Sugino AT crankset installed with original bottom bracket spindle. Perfect chainline!!!!!!!
- Aluminum dork disc stays.
- Original canti brakes retained. Still need to install new Kool-stops, although stopping is robust (but noisy) with the 38 year old pads.
- Suntour Cyclone GT rear derailleur and Cyclone front derailleur retained
- Original Dia Compe brake levers retained.
Good call on everything- I think the slotted Suntour dork disk looks classy.
Hoods should be easily available- either the vintage DC ones with the fun cutout for turkey lever, or some of the new DC 204, Cane Creek or Rustines...
I’ve had good luck with the Kool Stop Cross Pads- the shoes look nice, and the pads are replaceable. I don’t think you’ll have length problems with the 960s.
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
02-25-19, 01:17 PM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Seattle WA
Posts: 2,841
Bikes: 2009 Handsome Devil, 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1978 Motobecane Grand Touring, 1987 Nishiki Cresta GT, 1989 Specialized Allez Former bikes; 1986 Miyata Trail Runner, 1979 Miyata 912, 2011 VO Rando, 1999 Cannondale R800, 1986 Schwinn Passage
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 796 Post(s)
Liked 522 Times
in
367 Posts
My '81 has the original wheels, and yeah, it feels a little heavy. I swapped wheels back and forth a few times with the Wolbers on my newer ('88) Voyageur, and didn't really notice that much difference. Overall, the bike feels stable and comfy, but not exactly sprightly.
I should try one of my more modern wheel sets on it and see if that makes any difference. @Honusms, your frame looks pretty much exactly like a'81 Miata 1000 I sold on eBay a couple years back - same size, same color, same patina. But mine went out as just a frame and brake calipers, so no. And if you're riding a bike that is that small, I'm guessing you weigh a lot less than me and can get by fine with a lighter wheel set if you want. Plenty of choices out there.
I should try one of my more modern wheel sets on it and see if that makes any difference. @Honusms, your frame looks pretty much exactly like a'81 Miata 1000 I sold on eBay a couple years back - same size, same color, same patina. But mine went out as just a frame and brake calipers, so no. And if you're riding a bike that is that small, I'm guessing you weigh a lot less than me and can get by fine with a lighter wheel set if you want. Plenty of choices out there.
02-25-19, 08:52 PM
#23
Senior Member
Hey now!!!
My '81 has the original wheels, and yeah, it feels a little heavy. I swapped wheels back and forth a few times with the Wolbers on my newer ('88) Voyageur, and didn't really notice that much difference. Overall, the bike feels stable and comfy, but not exactly sprightly.
I should try one of my more modern wheel sets on it and see if that makes any difference. @Honusms, your frame looks pretty much exactly like a'81 Miata 1000 I sold on eBay a couple years back - same size, same color, same patina. But mine went out as just a frame and brake calipers, so no. And if you're riding a bike that is that small, I'm guessing you weigh a lot less than me and can get by fine with a lighter wheel set if you want. Plenty of choices out there.
I should try one of my more modern wheel sets on it and see if that makes any difference. @Honusms, your frame looks pretty much exactly like a'81 Miata 1000 I sold on eBay a couple years back - same size, same color, same patina. But mine went out as just a frame and brake calipers, so no. And if you're riding a bike that is that small, I'm guessing you weigh a lot less than me and can get by fine with a lighter wheel set if you want. Plenty of choices out there.
Hey now, I know that bike!
You've gotta remember that that is an '81.. BEFORE most of the mid-'80's touring-bike improvements! As an early '80s 'period' piece, it IS the 'creme-de-la-creme', but even a few years later, a 'mid-grade' Miyata 610/Univega Gran Tourismo was specced out better! Frame/fork? - Frames being double-/triple-butted-/STB, they are the same other than fork material, just a few more braze-ons. That '81's frame size/geometry and construction is never going to be 'sprightly!' It was never intended to be!!! It is a TOURING bike, not a canyon-carver!!!!
02-26-19, 12:00 AM
#24
Master Parts Rearranger
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portlandia's Kuiper Belt, OR
Posts: 4,402
Bikes: 1982 Trek 720 - 1985 Trek 620 - 1984 Trek 620 - 1980 Trek 510 - Other luminaries past and present
Mentioned: 221 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1556 Post(s)
Liked 2,024 Times
in
989 Posts
Hey now, I know that bike!
You've gotta remember that that is an '81.. BEFORE most of the mid-'80's touring-bike improvements! As an early '80s 'period' piece, it IS the 'creme-de-la-creme', but even a few years later, a 'mid-grade' Miyata 610/Univega Gran Tourismo was specced out better! Frame/fork? - Frames being double-/triple-butted-/STB, they are the same other than fork material, just a few more braze-ons. That '81's frame size/geometry and construction is never going to be 'sprightly!' It was never intended to be!!! It is a TOURING bike, not a canyon-carver!!!!
You've gotta remember that that is an '81.. BEFORE most of the mid-'80's touring-bike improvements! As an early '80s 'period' piece, it IS the 'creme-de-la-creme', but even a few years later, a 'mid-grade' Miyata 610/Univega Gran Tourismo was specced out better! Frame/fork? - Frames being double-/triple-butted-/STB, they are the same other than fork material, just a few more braze-ons. That '81's frame size/geometry and construction is never going to be 'sprightly!' It was never intended to be!!! It is a TOURING bike, not a canyon-carver!!!!
02-26-19, 01:05 AM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 1,234
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 174 Post(s)
Liked 243 Times
in
114 Posts
All that and no mention of the rear bag!? Don't leave us, or at least me, in suspense. Do tell!
First pass at making it rideable:
- Frame cleaned, buffed and waxed
- Hubs, bottom bracket, pedals and headset serviced. (Broke 2 reflectors on pedals, may or may not replace).
- Sugino AT crankset installed with original bottom bracket spindle. Perfect chainline!!!!!!!
- Original freewheel retained for now as it has no wear. Aluminum dork disc stays.
- Original canti brakes retained. Still need to install new Kool-stops, although stopping is robust (but noisy) with the 38 year old pads.
- Suntour Cyclone GT rear derailleur and Cyclone front derailleur retained
- Original Suntour ratchet shifters retained. These are my favorite downtube shifters. I have a pair of barcons that I could use, but maybe later.
- Cable housings replaced with Velo Orange metallic braid ones. Very stiff but so pretty!
- Original Dia Compe brake levers retained.
- Brooks leather bar tape installed.
- Puffy Trek saddle replace with Brooks Professional S
- SwiftTire Sand Canyon 35 tires installed on original rims, which are not really heavy once the old tires were scraped off.
- Frame cleaned, buffed and waxed
- Hubs, bottom bracket, pedals and headset serviced. (Broke 2 reflectors on pedals, may or may not replace).
- Sugino AT crankset installed with original bottom bracket spindle. Perfect chainline!!!!!!!
- Original freewheel retained for now as it has no wear. Aluminum dork disc stays.
- Original canti brakes retained. Still need to install new Kool-stops, although stopping is robust (but noisy) with the 38 year old pads.
- Suntour Cyclone GT rear derailleur and Cyclone front derailleur retained
- Original Suntour ratchet shifters retained. These are my favorite downtube shifters. I have a pair of barcons that I could use, but maybe later.
- Cable housings replaced with Velo Orange metallic braid ones. Very stiff but so pretty!
- Original Dia Compe brake levers retained.
- Brooks leather bar tape installed.
- Puffy Trek saddle replace with Brooks Professional S
- SwiftTire Sand Canyon 35 tires installed on original rims, which are not really heavy once the old tires were scraped off.
