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80s Stumpy with bad paint advice

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80s Stumpy with bad paint advice

Old 03-13-19, 12:20 PM
  #1  
RALEIGH_COMP
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80s Stumpy with bad paint advice

On the fence with this frame. Should I try to repair the paint, powder coat, or leave it be? If leave it be, should I clear coat or something? Decals are messed up too so that makes clear coating of some kind a challenge... thoughts?



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Old 03-13-19, 12:50 PM
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Looks fine. Many a chainstay looks worse than that. Touch it up and buy (or make) a chainstay protector.

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Old 03-13-19, 12:57 PM
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+1. Some touch-up here and there ought to do it for the next 30 years. I think it looks great in the top shot.
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Old 03-13-19, 01:00 PM
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+1
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Old 03-13-19, 01:36 PM
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This is a cool old Stumpy. Agree with the others and avoid a repaint. There are ways of dealing with bad paint and rust.
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Old 03-13-19, 01:42 PM
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I have a Cimarron with bad paint as well. It doesn't have rust around the cable guides, but it has every other form of abuse that a bike could suffer without being dented. I checked out a couple of local powder coaters and the prices are way beyond what I want to pay. Now it looks like I'll be dabbing on touch-up to make it look acceptable from 10 feet.
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Old 03-13-19, 03:14 PM
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looks just like my stumpy sport. Recently with the rain I have been riding it 5 days a week as its my best all weather bike- not a problem. just put some naval jelly on the rust spots and ride on brother!

once you put it together and step back 5 feet, you cant tell:
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Old 03-13-19, 03:45 PM
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There are definitely many more blemishes all over the bike, but no dents. I take you guys are saying there's plenty of good paint left either way. I am not very experienced with painting bikes, so i am more leaning toward just cleaning it and letting the wear show. The decals being damaged bothers me more than the paint being damaged. the drive side downtube decal has a large scuff strait through it to the paint.
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Old 03-13-19, 03:48 PM
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Powder coat, live with it not having decals after that ...

(or take pictures of them now and print your own)
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Old 03-13-19, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Powder coat, live with it not having decals after that ...

(or take pictures of them now and print your own)
I was kind of thinking of taking off some of the decals and just leaving the paint as is. Maybe leave the tubing decals and the head tube decal, and remove the rest....
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Old 03-13-19, 04:15 PM
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Get rid of the rust. Touch it up. Clear it and call it a day.
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Old 03-13-19, 04:26 PM
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I was a bit flip: but get some sandpaper and a bottle of rust converter (autoparts stores have this). clean it up with the sandpaper- go down in grit as you go. some people (you know who you are) go down to the point that you can use paper grocery bags as sandpaper. it works and is very economical. same with aluminum foil- also great for this.

then apply the rust converter- it will neutralize what is left of the rust and it will turn black- the black is sandable and can be primed and painted as you like. this solution will not stop the rust, as nothing really does, but it will slow it down to the point that you will be dead before its an issue again.
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Old 03-13-19, 04:40 PM
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It's a judgement call. Personally I'd powder coat it. Stumpies were no great works of art to begin with WRT paint and graphics, and I'd feel no great loss. Great machine though. With a new tough paint job it will give years of joy.

OTOH I can understand wanting to preserve history. In this case I'd go for an evaporust bath or your preferred rust removal method. Follow up with touch up using the closest color match auto touch up paint that you can find. Maybe overspray the chainstay if the color match is good.

Any way you slice it overspraying with clear coat will look like amateur hour. I'd recommend against that. Clears don't do much to stop rust anyway.
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Old 03-13-19, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Salamandrine View Post
It's a judgement call. Personally I'd powder coat it. Stumpies were no great works of art to begin with WRT paint and graphics, and I'd feel no great loss. Great machine though. With a new tough paint job it will give years of joy.

OTOH I can understand wanting to preserve history. In this case I'd go for an evaporust bath or your preferred rust removal method. Follow up with touch up using the closest color match auto touch up paint that you can find. Maybe overspray the chainstay if the color match is good.

Any way you slice it overspraying with clear coat will look like amateur hour. I'd recommend against that. Clears don't do much to stop rust anyway.
even though I am on the just fix the small issues side and not bother going full repaint/powder, I agree that clears do pretty much nothing and you should not bother. but its a thick.. very thick... bike. the rust is not a structural issue so a bit of cosmetic touch ups will be way cheaper and the bulk of the paint looks really nice. frankly, its no issue at all- even if you did nothing about the rust it will still be fine in 100 years unless you purposely left it out in the rain near the ocean.
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Old 03-13-19, 05:09 PM
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Yeah I suppose I should build it up first and just keep it clean while I see if I actually like riding it. Gonna change up the cockpit some, the OG bullmoose didnt jive with this size frame for me. We'll see if I get attached to the bike at all before I invest too much time into making it prettier.
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Old 03-13-19, 06:33 PM
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When I stumbled into my Stumpjumper Sport- I thought it was in pretty nice condition- even though it's more rough than yours!

I think you have the right idea in riding it for a while- I came from riding heavy bikes, so this was no different- it was my commuter and "carry a load" bike. By the time I started riding lighter bikes, the weight of the Stumpjumper became noticeable. It does ride really nice- the geometry and the weight give a great feeling. I ride it with Paselas and mostly pavement and paths- not so much mud.

I think one of the coolest things about my bike is that the rear wheel and the rear derailleur were both replaced around 1993. The SJ Sport came with a 1st generation Mountech derailleur- which have a historical tendency to seize- and apparently mine seized some 9 years after the guy got it.
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Old 03-13-19, 08:26 PM
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One more vote to keep the finish. Except for the chainstay, I wouldn't call this "bad". Graphics are actually in pretty good shape, and worth conserving. Dayum those old Stumpies are sweet; oh, that biplane fork.....
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Old 03-15-19, 07:09 AM
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Just some more shots of the paint and decals...




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Old 03-15-19, 07:51 AM
  #19  
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I assume you know what you're getting into here. Bike frame repaints seem so seductively easy. "Oh, I could knock that out in an afternoon." NOT.

I think it's a frame worth saving, but don't expect any reward in terms of increased value. If you wanna preserve the value of the frame, just leave it alone. But if you wanna put a lot of miles on it, and aren't concerned with selling it, and have some free time, I would just go for it and dive in. Fortunately, replacement decals are pretty easy to find these days, so that makes the decision a little easier.

Rust spots bug the crap out of me personally, and I don't flip bikes, so I'm willing to sacrifice the original paint on anything I ride a lot. Just so I don't have to look at the damned rust.
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Old 03-16-19, 10:08 PM
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Try to remove the rusty sections as much as you can by light sanding and repaint those areas. A cheap solution for repainting those areas would be to buy a spray can of matching light blue Rust-oleum. Spray into a bowl or container and use small artist paintbrushes from the 99c store for touch-ups. I've used yellow Rust-oleum on my yellow Schwinn High Sierra, and while the Rust-oleum is lighter in color, the enamel holds well on the retouched areas. From afar they're barely noticeable, but up close you can see them.

Rust-oleum spray cans run just about $6, and you're not likely to use all of the paint. But it's way cheaper than buying those expensive small bottles for touch-ups on autos which can run at least $15.
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Old 03-17-19, 08:02 AM
  #21  
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The answer for someone like you, who's "sitting on the fence" about a re-paint, is Plasti Dip !
Minimal prep, lot's of colors, and info available on line.
And if you decide you don't like it, just peel it, and you're back to square one :

Plasti Dip a CF Frame...

https://www.mtnbikeriders.com/2013/0...th-plasti-dip/

https://www.dipyourcar.com/collectio...ancer-aerosols
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Old 03-17-19, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Powder coat, live with it not having decals after that ...

(or take pictures of them now and print your own)
Can't you put decals over the powder coat?
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Old 03-17-19, 06:53 PM
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Clear Mylar , reverse printed and then adhesive applied.. ..
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Old 03-17-19, 08:41 PM
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If I were going to flip this, I'd twine and shellac the chainstay. Haven't done that in a while. It would be fun. Bike model and frame color are perfect for it. Add honey bar tape (or shellac'd cotton?) and gumwalls for the full effect. Oh, spray two coats of clear on the stay first.

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Old 03-17-19, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RALEIGH_COMP View Post
On the fence with this frame. Should I try to repair the paint, powder coat, or leave it be? If leave it be, should I clear coat or something? Decals are messed up too so that makes clear coating of some kind a challenge... thoughts?
I also have a StumpJumper Sport. That is a great frame. Save it!

Get some matching touch up paint or nail polish. Apply wherever you can see bare steel (scratches that don't expose steel do not qualify).

Remove the rust on the cable guides and use touch up paint.

Large, badly damaged areas like that chain stay should be de-rusted, sanded, primed and sprayed with a matching paint. Perhaps paint the entire stay but just the stay. This time, put a protector between the paint and the chain.

Keep the original paint and decals wherever possible.
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