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Christine, The Rusty Raleigh Pro

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Christine, The Rusty Raleigh Pro

Old 04-20-19, 06:10 PM
  #26  
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@Nemosengineer I am enjoying this thread and your choices for the build. If you don't mind, where did you order the T.A rack??
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Old 04-20-19, 06:24 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ryansu View Post
@Nemosengineer I am enjoying this thread and your choices for the build. If you don't mind, where did you order the T.A rack??
The T.A. rack was a eBay find and I was really happy with the fit with the Mafac "Competition" brakes. The rack was designed for "Racer" brakes that have a slightly longer lower brake arm.

: Mike
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Old 04-20-19, 06:35 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Nemosengineer View Post
The T.A. rack was a eBay find and I was really happy with the fit with the Mafac "Competition" brakes. The rack was designed for "Racer" brakes that have a slightly longer lower brake arm.

: Mike
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Old 04-21-19, 11:44 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by samkl View Post
Can you explain that? I don't get how you can have 9 speeds with 120mm spacing.
Actually it should be 126mm spacing. Raleigh Pros from '73 on were factory 6 speed (not ultra). So was the '73 RRA.

Very nice project!
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Old 04-28-19, 12:04 AM
  #30  
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Every once and awhile a project changes direction, I'm doing this for two reasons. First is the Raleigh deserves a proper restoration with the chrome/paint redone and the correct Campy Record stuff put back on. Second is I'm trying to build a light fast audax/randonneur and the Raleigh is the wrong frame to build this project on.
So the search was on for a new frame, light with some wheelbase, clearance for 28mm tires, fenders, and a bit unusual. I have found a frame that fits that description, I'm going to keep the frames identity secret for the time being because I'm a drama queen and It's coming from England, I haven't received the shipping data yet, and because I don't want to jinx the deal.
So the build goes on with an even higher Dura Ace content and some rearranging of parts. The Sun XCD hub showed up and it's very nice, so nice I ordered the matching front hub...






: Mike
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Old 04-28-19, 12:42 AM
  #31  
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Re: Rusty Raleigh

Originally Posted by AngryFrankie View Post
Hanging around the co-op the other night, I saw that someone had chucked a Super Course MKII into the recycling. I thought it was worth saving and brought it in and looked it over. It has that same sort of light rusting on the surface of the tubes. I'm convinced Carlton was doing something with the paint job that allowed it to rust under the paint. That said, the professional is one of my favorites and I've tried more than once to secure one in my size. That bike might be worth a repaint.
I have to agree, I just recently refinished the top tube on my Raleigh pro. When I bought the frame it had rust spots where the top tube cable clips were installed. When I started sanding the paint off the top tube, it showed signs of rust under areas where the paint still looked good, kind of looked spider web like on the metal. Also had a Competition that the paint was bubbling in places even though the paint still had a very high sheen and was not weathered or faded.
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Old 05-02-19, 08:51 PM
  #32  
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A preview of the new frame, a Sakae Litage. Details to follow.



: Mike
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Old 05-04-19, 11:46 AM
  #33  
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This thread has sort of come off the tracks with the change of frames, when the Raleigh Pro comes back as a project I will continue... Thanks everyone for all the interest. The new aluminum frame will be built in a new thread.

Thanks: Mike
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Old 05-21-19, 09:50 PM
  #34  
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Christine is back. It's the bike that refuses to be kept waiting, so on with the build.
The wheels were built at Jet Wheels in San Diego by the owner Charles Wells, they came out very nice, Wheelsmith butted spokes and nipples, tied and soldered, probably the best wheelset I own.





I coldset the frame to 131 mm spacing from 126, just a bit nerve wracking, if there was a flaw in the brazing I think I would have found it. The dropout alignment is good as is the derailleur hanger, wheel is centered in the frame, so I'm calling this a successful few hours of work



Pressing the headset was painless.



And now for the mockup photo.



: Mike

I
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Old 05-22-19, 04:18 AM
  #35  
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Go man, go. I'm taking mine out this morning for a ride I call 'the day of the dead' as it passes thru and between two old cemeteries in Philadelphia. I love how that Carlton chrome shines on a cool, clear spring morning.

keep posting.
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Old 05-23-19, 09:22 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Prowler View Post
Go man, go. I'm taking mine out this morning for a ride I call 'the day of the dead' as it passes thru and between two old cemeteries in Philadelphia. I love how that Carlton chrome shines on a cool, clear spring morning.

keep posting.
Prowler, thanks for the encouragement. I'm roughing in the cockpit tonight and here's a few photos.









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Old 05-24-19, 10:17 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Nemosengineer View Post
Generally I will start out with deep cleaning and corrosion removal using brass brushes. If the part is corroded bad enough or the part I want to polish is anodized, I will use easy-off oven cleaner to strip the anodizing and corrosion or a 24 hour soak in pine-sol diluted 50-50 with water for removal of general surface corrosion if the part is not anodized. Next step is to go over the part with 3M extra fine gray scotch brite pad in soapy water until I have a uniform non reflective surface.
At this point I decide what work is required to remove parting or forging lines, and blend or remove any damage that may exist. this is done with an assortment of swiss files (I use chalk on my files to keep the aluminum from sticking to the file and being drug through the finish)
After the part is fully detailed start your sanding with 320 grit or finer, then 600, 800, and finally 1500 grit, at various points in the process I will get the part out in direct sunlight to see what I have missed and where more work is required as I always miss something.
When I'm happy with the result of all my sanding, I use Mothers Mag polish and various soft rags and it may take 2 or three polishing sessions to get the result I want. As a side note various alloys of aluminum will take a polish better than others, harder alloys will polish the best, if I'm working on something from France or a softer alloy do a final buff with very fine scotch brite and skip any sanding beyond 600 grit, then polish from there as the really soft alloys contain a lot of zinc and dont polish well, usea good car wax after polish.
: Mike
That's pretty much how I do it as well. Very happy with the results.
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Old 05-24-19, 01:19 PM
  #38  
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Great project and name! (JC fan here).
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Old 05-24-19, 01:27 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Nemosengineer View Post
Every once and awhile a project changes direction, I'm doing this for two reasons. First is the Raleigh deserves a proper restoration with the chrome/paint redone and the correct Campy Record stuff put back on. Second is I'm trying to build a light fast audax/randonneur and the Raleigh is the wrong frame to build this project on.
So the search was on for a new frame, light with some wheelbase, clearance for 28mm tires, fenders, and a bit unusual. I have found a frame that fits that description, I'm going to keep the frames identity secret for the time being because I'm a drama queen and It's coming from England, I haven't received the shipping data yet, and because I don't want to jinx the deal.
So the build goes on with an even higher Dura Ace content and some rearranging of parts. The Sun XCD hub showed up and it's very nice, so nice I ordered the matching front hub...






: Mike
Bob Jackson makes some very nice Audax frames.
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