My latest "What to do with it?" bike
04-13-19, 11:38 AM
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My latest "What to do with it?" bike
just traded an old schwinn that was pretty beat for this, strait across. As I told the guy, my headache is now yours, and vice versa. Boy was I right! This thing is really interesting, but stinks to ride.
Problem is, other than the hoods, its only got a couple scrapes. Everything is is great shape. There is barely a market for bikes here at all, so can't really sell it. It has more toe overlap than any bike Ive ever ridden, and the crank... Well, I don't like it.
What would you do with this, if you lived in a place where there was no way to get rid of it? Parts?
Problem is, other than the hoods, its only got a couple scrapes. Everything is is great shape. There is barely a market for bikes here at all, so can't really sell it. It has more toe overlap than any bike Ive ever ridden, and the crank... Well, I don't like it.
What would you do with this, if you lived in a place where there was no way to get rid of it? Parts?
Last edited by shipwreck; 04-13-19 at 11:46 AM.
04-13-19, 12:02 PM
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Are those Shimano dropouts?
Generally speaking- those went on good bikes.
Generally speaking- those went on good bikes.
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04-13-19, 12:14 PM
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Interesting freewheel progression. I bet that was a custom merged freewheel that someone made. 
It looks like it could take some practice to get used to it though.
It looks like it could take some practice to get used to it though.
04-13-19, 12:17 PM
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Ive done a bit of googling, and this is the freewheel that they came with. 12, 13, 14 , 16, 18, 30, 32. This bike has the original tires. It was never ridden, and after a quick spin, I know why. Google the power cam crank. There is a bit about it on BF, and some random history. In practice, it requires really slow cadence, no spinning. There are severe dead spots that feel terrible. Not a good climber, and with 2500 feet of climbing on my regular 20 mile route, its not the crank for me.
Last edited by shipwreck; 04-13-19 at 12:22 PM.
04-13-19, 01:14 PM
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Is the fork bent? I cant believe how little clearance betwewn the front wheel and the downtube.
04-13-19, 01:21 PM
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Full overhaul with a new sunrace 14-28 freewheel, cotton bar tape (orange??) and rustines hoods.
... unless it's a boat anchor...
Not that I would ride it, mind you.
... unless it's a boat anchor...
Not that I would ride it, mind you.
04-13-19, 02:10 PM
#8
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What is it that makes the crank so bad? Just curious I have always found that with the chainrings that were compatible with the terrain I was riding the crank was pretty insignificant in how the bike worked as long as the q factor was ok and it shifted right.
04-13-19, 02:10 PM
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The Head Tube appears to have quite a bit steeper angle than the Seat Tube, with minimal fork rake. Thus the tight clearances. Also rather short chainstay length, and tire/seat tube clearance, which was common for racing bikes.
There are some pretty wicked photography artifacts from the photo being shot at a fairly close distance with a wide angle shot. The fork appears to be turned slightly to the right, but one also sees clearly the left handlebar drop, brake lever, and the left fork blade, as well as the left seat stay.
The slight turn to the right, with the artifacts may make the tire look closer to the tube than it actually is.
Nonetheless, it doesn't hurt to look at the bike closely.
04-13-19, 02:15 PM
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Donate it to a charity.
04-13-19, 02:19 PM
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google power cam crank
04-13-19, 02:19 PM
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04-13-19, 02:59 PM
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Never heard of the brand, but I think its actually pretty darn good looking. Looks like a decent quality bike as well.
How the heck does the chain make that jump?
How the heck does the chain make that jump?
04-13-19, 03:06 PM
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Wow, what a unique crank.
paper1
I don't see how to do the lockout, but it should be pretty simple.
Nonetheless, I'd anticipate that you could pull the cranks and bottom bracket and sell then on E-Bay for $100 to $200, and buy a replacement crankset.
If you do E-Bay, (or try to sell on Bike Forums), put it as a "Buy-It-Now" with an "offer" as it may well take months for someone to find it.
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Locking Device, Provides You with a "2 in 1" Bicycle, a Flip of a Switch Gransforms it from Cam to Conventional and Visa Versa
Nonetheless, I'd anticipate that you could pull the cranks and bottom bracket and sell then on E-Bay for $100 to $200, and buy a replacement crankset.
If you do E-Bay, (or try to sell on Bike Forums), put it as a "Buy-It-Now" with an "offer" as it may well take months for someone to find it.
04-13-19, 03:43 PM
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04-13-19, 03:55 PM
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60/44 and that wacky bailout gearing - perfect if you have nothing but continuous rolling hills around.
04-13-19, 04:17 PM
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I owned a Houdaille a couple of years ago, purchased from a retired dealer who had an attic full of the frames. He told me quite a bit about them, most of which I've mostly forgotten, but the one thing I will say is that the frames are actually quite nice. I was unimpressed with the funky drive system and pulled it. I think it's in the bins or donated. I think I wound up putting SIS outfit on it eventually - at any rate, well worth the investment of time.
04-13-19, 04:21 PM
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I remember the company Houdaille. I have never seen the Power Cam crank in the wild, so this post has me one step closer.
I bought a product from them -- Houdaille Road Machine -- around 1990.
It looked quite similar to many of today's in that you removed your back wheel to use it, but back then nothing else looked like it.
It served as a stand, had an integrated freewheel, and used a 20lb flywheel to maintain momentum. It was one heavy mofo.
It was much quieter than anything else out there at the time, but never caught on.
When I bought mine at the LBS, Houdaille offered a free Polar HRM along with it.
This was before HRMs were wireless, so it had a wire that connected between the chest belt electrodes and the watch itself.
I either wore a t-shirt or ended up looking like the$6 Million, $6 Thousand, $6 Hundred $60 Man.
I bought a product from them -- Houdaille Road Machine -- around 1990.
It looked quite similar to many of today's in that you removed your back wheel to use it, but back then nothing else looked like it.
It served as a stand, had an integrated freewheel, and used a 20lb flywheel to maintain momentum. It was one heavy mofo.
It was much quieter than anything else out there at the time, but never caught on.
When I bought mine at the LBS, Houdaille offered a free Polar HRM along with it.
This was before HRMs were wireless, so it had a wire that connected between the chest belt electrodes and the watch itself.
I either wore a t-shirt or ended up looking like the
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WTB: Slingshot bicycle promotional documents (catalog, pamphlets, etc).
WTB: American Cycling May - Aug, Oct, Dec 1966.
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04-13-19, 04:53 PM
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04-13-19, 05:58 PM
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04-13-19, 07:11 PM
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But, rather than cutting the teeth in the desired pattern, they chose to do mechanical crank advancement/delay.
I think it would be fascinating to play around with some of these "better than standard" cranksets.
Response to the Biopace?
Weren't the Biopace rings oriented 90 degrees off from what most modern non-round rings are oriented?
04-13-19, 07:11 PM
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I’ve been messing with it, and found the lockout for the crank cam. Much nicer to ride, though there is a few mm of backlash.
Its a nice bike. Light, never ridden, the hubs(suntour) are totally smooth, though I’ve yet to grease them. Wheels are dead true. The tires were baked on, put some 1-1/8 zaffiro’s on it.
Need a slightly longer seat post(26.6). I can ride a 58, though it’s at the bottom of my comfort zone.
Bottom line, now that I’ve located the lockout(right under the crank arm,sort of hard to get to without a screwdriver or something) it sucks less, and I can tell that it is indeed a nice frame.
Some things were throwing me on that, for instance seat stay caps are sort of crimped rather than capped, but still a good job, no tubing sticker at all, clamp on DT shifters rather than braze on(not a true indicator of low quality but still), and the decals are sort of cheap looking.
This is may be a good bike to take to vintage or tweed rides, as it’s both a conversation piece and original. I love Suntour, and this is all that(power ratchet downtubes are a fave) Most stock bike I own. If it rides well, that’s a bonus. Looks like I’ve got to source some hood covers. Have some really nice white bar tape in the bin, for a low mile rider that should be fine, cause I dislike white bar tape.
Its a nice bike. Light, never ridden, the hubs(suntour) are totally smooth, though I’ve yet to grease them. Wheels are dead true. The tires were baked on, put some 1-1/8 zaffiro’s on it.
Need a slightly longer seat post(26.6). I can ride a 58, though it’s at the bottom of my comfort zone.
Bottom line, now that I’ve located the lockout(right under the crank arm,sort of hard to get to without a screwdriver or something) it sucks less, and I can tell that it is indeed a nice frame.
Some things were throwing me on that, for instance seat stay caps are sort of crimped rather than capped, but still a good job, no tubing sticker at all, clamp on DT shifters rather than braze on(not a true indicator of low quality but still), and the decals are sort of cheap looking.
This is may be a good bike to take to vintage or tweed rides, as it’s both a conversation piece and original. I love Suntour, and this is all that(power ratchet downtubes are a fave) Most stock bike I own. If it rides well, that’s a bonus. Looks like I’ve got to source some hood covers. Have some really nice white bar tape in the bin, for a low mile rider that should be fine, cause I dislike white bar tape.
04-13-19, 07:47 PM
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Anybody remember Kevin Costner's line from American Flyers? "Those Houdaille guys are tough."
04-13-19, 08:03 PM
#25
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I'd also vote for swapping out the crank (and freewheel) for the gearing you want, and sell the pieces. Looks like a nice, responsive frame. Might be your new favorite.
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