Weird derailleur hanger
 

I recently picked up a lilac Raleigh Competition (likely a 1971) with a few issues. I plan on using the C&V crew to crowd source some solutions. The frame, fork, chrome, and paint are in nice shape. The paint has been touched up with some weird color but that's just part of the charm of an old bike.

Problem no. 1 on this bike is that the rear brake bridge has been badly drilled out. Here is the thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...dge-issue.html

Problem no. 2 has an easy solution but I was hoping to get some help on what the heck is going on with the rear derailleur hanger. It looks as if someone brazed on a hanger but the stop on the hanger is farther back than on a campy style drop out. The easy solution is to run a derailleur with a claw. I'm not sure if I'd feel badly even if I sawed off the hanger as it was not original to the bike. Does anyone recognize this hanger?

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ea048b9668.jpg

New one on me. Hard to tell from the photo but it seems if you sawed the extension tab off at the back of the hanger vertically the result would be about right as a campy-compatible setup. Maybe not though...

It's one of those Australian teruH hangers. They work well in the southern hemisphere.

Actually I have no idea what happened there, but that's kind of scary. I'm sure you could file it to the 7 o'clock campy standard, like we cavemen did to Simplex hangers in the old days.

It would be interesting if it's a hanger for some obscure standard we've all forgotten about.

That is not a Huret hanger either. I would clean and sand it well and look for evidence that it had been brazed or welded. Then I would hacksaw it to standard Campagnolo dimensions.

:D took me a moment. The cap H saved me from feeling too dopey.

Paging [MENTION=381793]gugie[/MENTION] ;)

Yeah the caveman solution probably makes the most sense but that's a heck of a lot of material to file off. I just wonder why someone would go to the trouble of doing a nice job in brazing on a hanger that makes no sense, insofar as I know, when it comes to the stock of derailleurs out there.

It is kind of weird and lacking sense, at least to modern eyes. OTOH things weren't so standardized once, and a lot of old derailleurs didn't even have B adjusters.

A hacksaw will take off the big chunks pretty quick, then clean up with a file. A dremel with a grinding wheel will work for clean up too. For that matter the newer style Dremel EZ cut off wheels will do the cutting if you prefer power tools. A Baldor grinder would make quick work of it too.

Yeah, I'll likely take a shot at it as I might like to run campy derailleurs on this. Talk about non-standard parts, this bike has a british threaded bottom bracket and a raleigh 26 tpi steer column but with a 26.4 crown race. As far as I know Raleigh headsets only came in 27.0 crown race . . . .

Others have already stated the solution, hacksaw/file the stop to a 7 o'clock position and it'll work with almost all derailleurs. Old Hurets, just work it to 4 o'clock.

I'd stick a derailleur on first to make sure there's enough meat for a stop in the position you want.

I had a local bike shop re thread the bottom bracket to 24 tpi on my 1971 Raleigh Grand prix. Was not too happy with the results, the bb cup is a bit loose until it is almost threaded as far as it needs to go. Saw that it could be done on Sheldon Browns site.