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NBD - 1984 Trek 620

Old 08-01-19, 04:16 PM
  #51  
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First off nice find OP! I found a 87 520 for the clunker challenge (dumb luck) and its going to get the spa treatment soon. For BB repair I found BF member RandyJawa's site very helpful -here take it slow and have fun.

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Old 08-01-19, 06:06 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by riverdrifter View Post


Nice find - excellent condition. I have the same bike, same year, one size up.

RJ the Bike Guy also has a video re: disassembly/rehab of the Duo Par rear der. Be careful - many moving parts that require proper re-assembly. I have read that the Duo Par can accommodate a fairly large cog - 30T + if you want to try.

Also, the rear hub can be replaced with certain Maillard hubs that have the same housing dimensions. I did this in order to get rid of the Helicomatic - got lucky in that I had an un-used rear wheel that I discovered had the properly-sized Maillard hub that uses regular-size bearings. This allowed for re-use of the spokes and 27" rim that came with the bike.

Interesting to see that 700x35 will fit. I have been considering changing to 700c. Your Dia Compe canti brakes should be able to be adjusted to align with the 700c rims.

Re: brake pads - Kool Stop makes pads that will fit. The Eagle Claw will have to be trimmed in order to fit the front fork. The road-style pads apparently will fit without modification - search previous threads on this site for details.
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Old 08-01-19, 08:31 PM
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Are old Treks good enough to be daily used? Some people say they are a bit heavy but, as i did not ride any Treks i won't say anything.
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Old 08-02-19, 10:23 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Nahuel_B58 View Post
Are old Treks good enough to be daily used? Some people say they are a bit heavy but, as i did not ride any Treks i won't say anything.
Pretty wide range of bikes when you say "old Treks". They have entry level bikes and pro level bikes. Mine was built in Waterloo, Wisconsin USA and is Reynolds 531 tubing. It's certainly not heavy.

Used daily for what? Different people use all kinds of different bikes daily for all kinds of different things? I frequently ride an old, heavy Raleigh 3-speed with a heavy steel Wald basket on the front for grocery store trips.

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Old 08-02-19, 10:28 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Nahuel_B58 View Post
Are old Treks good enough to be daily used? Some people say they are a bit heavy but, as i did not ride any Treks i won't say anything.
The old Treks are great bikes. Where have I heard that phrase "Some people say" before, .

They are not heavy bikes. Heck even the low end vintage Treks were quality bikes with good quality frame and parts.

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Old 08-02-19, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by riverdrifter View Post
Pretty wide range of bikes when you say "old Treks". They have entry level bikes and pro level bikes. Mine was built in Waterloo, Wisconsin USA and is Reynolds 531 tubing. It's certainly not heavy.


What about this one? 1500 uruguayan pesos is like 50 dollars
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Old 08-02-19, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Nahuel_B58 View Post


What about this one? 1500 uruguayan pesos is like 50 dollars
You will want to post this on the C&V valuation forum to get some replies. Buena suerte!
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Old 08-02-19, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by bikemig View Post
You will want to post this on the C&V valuation forum to get some replies. Buena suerte!
🙆🙆 thanks amigo!
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Old 08-02-19, 10:44 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Nahuel_B58 View Post
🙆🙆 thanks amigo!
no hay porque
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Old 08-02-19, 12:05 PM
  #60  
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Ok, I've got another problem here. I've been trying to fine tune my rear wheel spacing and it's not working. Maybe it was off before I serviced the hubs, I'm not sure. This is what it looks like now, and I can't get it centered.
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Old 08-02-19, 12:34 PM
  #61  
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I think the small cog is usually a lot closer to the dropout. Maybe a couple spacers got mixed up? I'll take a look at my 620 when I get home tonight.
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Old 08-02-19, 02:37 PM
  #62  
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Here's how mine looks. This is how it came to me so at least if it's not right I didn't do it. I think it's right, though. The wheel could be dished to center either way but with extra spacers and or lock nuts on the right side it will require more dish in order to move the rim to center which would result in a weaker wheel. I think you have an extra lock nut on the right side which should be on the left side, which may require shifting the axle over a little to the left.
You can see in the 2nd and 3rd pictures, that the lock nut is only slightly outboard of the freewheel retaining ring.
Be aware that you will have to re-adjust your rear derailleur limit screws and maybe the cable if your freewheel ends up positioned further to the right than it was originally was. This should be checked anyway, even if you didn't change anything since you may not know if it was set correctly when you got the bike.


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Old 08-02-19, 02:44 PM
  #63  
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^^^^ Thanks so much! I bet I put the axle in backwards.
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Old 08-02-19, 02:52 PM
  #64  
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No problem! I added a few sentences to my post above.
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Old 08-02-19, 03:14 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by riverdrifter View Post
Ok, I've got another problem here. I've been trying to fine tune my rear wheel spacing and it's not working. Maybe it was off before I serviced the hubs, I'm not sure. This is what it looks like now, and I can't get it centered.
Looks like the doubled lock nuts are on the wrong side. Axle backwards?
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Old 08-02-19, 03:33 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by jlaw View Post
Looks like the doubled lock nuts are on the wrong side. Axle backwards?
Yep that was my problem.
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Old 08-02-19, 03:36 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Hobbiano View Post
No problem! I added a few sentences to my post above.

Do do you have any links for a derailleur adjustment video? This basic stuff is all new to me and I'm learning as I go.

Exactly what you said would happen, is happening. I almost took the dork disc off, glad I didn't because now that the wheel is centered perfect, I threw the chain off.
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Old 08-02-19, 03:38 PM
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That's better!
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Old 08-02-19, 04:09 PM
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I like the Park tool tutorials. Here's one that should work, even though it is for indexed shifting, That shouldn't matter.

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...eur-adjustment
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Old 08-02-19, 04:20 PM
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I've read that the Duo Par derailleur was an expensive component with an evolutionary design in its day that allowed for wide-range touring freewheels - worked well but could be fragile. Yours will probably be fine for a long time.

Here's a little history of it: https://bikeretrogrouch.blogspot.com...et-duopar.html
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Old 08-03-19, 08:58 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Hobbiano View Post
I like the Park tool tutorials. Here's one that should work, even though it is for indexed shifting, That shouldn't matter.

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...eur-adjustment
Thanks for the link, it helped. I did a cleaning on the rear derailleur this morning (not a tear-down, just degrease, clean, and lube), and set the adjustments. It is shifting smooth and near perfect now.
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Old 08-12-19, 10:41 AM
  #72  
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I still haven't got the BB rebuild done, and still haven't ordered the tools. It's next on my list though, then all new cables.

Today I installed a pair of 27 x 1 1/4" Continental Super Sport Plus tires. I know everyone loves the Paselas, but the one weak point I hear about is sidewall punctures. I've talked about it before, but I live in the middle of hundreds of acres of goathead thorns. They aren't part of the ground cover, they ARE the ground cover. Late summer (now) until the snow covers them, the thorns travel everywhere on animals feet, shoes, etc. You can't avoid them, it's just not possible. I've run Mr. Tuffy liners in all the family tires, but we still end up with flats from sidewall thorns. My son had 2 this week. So puncture resistance and a tough sidewall were important to me. My Jamis has Schwalbe Marathons on it and they are great, if a little heavy. These Contis are 100 grams per tire lighter than the Schwalbes, so I hope I'll be happy with them. We shall see.

I've also got bar tape arriving today. Fizik Microtex Bondcush Classic 3 mm, black. This is gonna be a low key build.
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Old 08-12-19, 04:35 PM
  #73  
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I never encountered a goat head until I did some riding in Central WA (Wenatchee) and I was on a paved bike trial! I can see why you would want tires to stand up to those beasties. Good luck with the rest of the rebuild and keep posting pics.
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Old 08-12-19, 04:43 PM
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Goatheads are crummy. I saw a lot of them when I did the Tour de Nebraska earlier this year. My tires weren't tough enough and I had 2 flats. So yeah, I'd focus on a tough tire if I rode in that environment as well.

The Huret Duopar is a good derailleur. Frank Berto loved them and wrote about them in Bicycling Magazine. They can take up a lot of chain that's for sure. You should never change gears under a load with any derailleur but with this one, you really should baby it a bit by lightening up on the pedals when shifting. If you do that, you will get a lot of mileage out of it. I used one when I toured across the US and it worked great.
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Old 08-12-19, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by bikemig View Post
Goatheads are crummy. I saw a lot of them when I did the Tour de Nebraska earlier this year. My tires weren't tough enough and I had 2 flats. So yeah, I'd focus on a tough tire if I rode in that environment as well.

The Huret Duopar is a good derailleur. Frank Berto loved them and wrote about them in Bicycling Magazine. They can take up a lot of chain that's for sure. You should never change gears under a load with any derailleur but with this one, you really should baby it a bit by lightening up on the pedals when shifting. If you do that, you will get a lot of mileage out of it. I used one when I toured across the US and it worked great.
Oh, good tip on the derailleur~! Thanks that's good to know.
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