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The Raleigh Competition Chronicles: rustystrings61's 1973

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The Raleigh Competition Chronicles: rustystrings61's 1973

Old 07-30-19, 07:32 AM
  #26  
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No pix today, but So far I've replaced the rear hub's solid axle with a hollow one, removed the Allen-key nuts from the front hub and fitted old Maillard steel skewers to both. I've also obsessively measured and re-measured the distance from the dropouts to the rear brake mounts and have concluded I should be able to successfully run Weinmann 610-length Vainquers both front and rear, especially if I replace the stock Weinmann pads with some narrower section Scott-Matthausers from the stash pile. To that end, I have scrubbed and polished the original front caliper (made in W. Germany) and remounted it. In the rear position is a 610 from the stash box, this time a Swiss-made unit, with the mounting bolts from the bike's original 750-length caliper. I'm mulling over the current seatpost situation, as the Zoom I have shoved in as a placeholder doesn't really adjust to my liking, angle-wise. We shall see.

Updated with pix!





Last edited by rustystrings61; 07-30-19 at 02:27 PM.
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Old 07-30-19, 08:55 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Bad Lag View Post
As this is yet another Raleigh Competition thread on yet another distinct bike, let me as this generic question -

Are these bikes worthy of serious restoration? Is the frame worth spending the time and money to strip, repaint, maybe rechrome the fork and stay ends?

Is this model worthy of the restoration so many willingly spend on Raleigh Professionals and Internationals?

I do not ask the question in terms of economic return on investment. I'm not sure what the context is but it isn't a question about flipping the bike or other financial gain.
This is a question to be answered by each person, based on their interests and preferences. I had a 1972 Competition that I had completely made over, and I consider it worth it. Yes, I have several bicycles with better "build quality", but this one (as I find most of its' Raleigh contemporaries) is a joy to ride.
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Old 07-30-19, 09:38 AM
  #28  
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"70's bikes, with 1930's geometry"

Originally Posted by USAZorro View Post
This is a question to be answered by each person, based on their interests and preferences. I had a 1972 Competition that I had completely made over, and I consider it worth it. Yes, I have several bicycles with better "build quality", but this one (as I find most of its' Raleigh contemporaries) is a joy to ride.
"...is a joy to ride".

I read a quote (from gugie, I believe), that stuck:

"70's bikes, with 1930's geometry".
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Old 08-01-19, 06:50 AM
  #29  
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French eBay came through for me! Behold - Nervar Star cranks with the correct 128 mm bcd chainrings in 42/44T! I think they will play nicely with the Surly Dingle, and I haven't given up hope of scoring a 20/22T Dos Eno used somewhere - though if I don't, I'll go with a 21T single-speed freewheel of some sort.




It seems to me I've seen two-tooth differences between chainrings before on some racing bikes, though three or four teeth is better. What is this, half-half-step? Quarter-step?
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Old 08-14-19, 07:28 AM
  #30  
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Obsessive measurement time! Inspired by Schreck83's latest post in the saga of neither Super Course nor Grand Prix but Gran Sport, I broke out the tape measure and the scales and went to work on the Competition. I didn't pull the bottom bracket - but I did weigh the near-identical French-threaded T.A. unit with the same spindle and deducted that weight.

7 lbs 4 oz - frame, fork, headset
59 cm ST c-t
57 cm TT c-c
44 cm c-stay (from center ob BB to the point where the line of the stays intersect. Effective range for fixed/SS purposes is 43-46 cm
105 cm wheelbase - yep, that would be 41.5-in
73-degree parallel head and seat tubes
2.5-in rake, which will yield a trail around 41 mm with 35 mm tires, 40 mm with 32s

So then I poked around on the old FixMeUp! site and ran some numbers and I think I really could run 17/19T fixed with both c'rings and I could still run a 20/22T Dos Eno on the other side with both rings as well - and it would be at the absolute limit to run it that way. So maybe I would just ignore the 42x17 and 54x22 and keep the chain length within easy range. We shall see.

On the parts acquisition front - from the great auction site I scored a used 10 cm Nitto Technomic with a 26.0 clamp; then I got a good deal on a used Velo Orange Grand Cru Course handlebar; finally, a set of new in the box Tektro levers for cheap.

And what good, pray tell, would a post on this forum be without pix? So here's the mock-up -



It begins to look like a bike.



Front quarter view. I will keep telling myself that the mismatched finishes of the hubs won't bother me - and I am pretty sure it really won't!



I'm pretty sure the 610 length rear caliper will work. Also, I measured the brake cable stop bridge and it is approximately 3 degrees off from horizontal. Looks like more, doesn't it? I'm sure the brazer didn't need to be reminded that Guinness isn't just for breakfast ...
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