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I'm guessing this isn't repairable... :(

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I'm guessing this isn't repairable... :(

Old 07-29-19, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by TenGrainBread View Post
@Salamandrine @gugie The size of the clamp is not the issue for TIG welding. But the alloy is. A lot of aluminum alloys used for forging from that time period are not weldable.
Good point. You're right, I hadn't considered that. Could be 'dural'.
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Old 07-29-19, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by smontanaro View Post
Good idea, but if I was to (for instance), find a suitable candidate on eBay, I'd have to purchase it, test it, then quite possibly ask for a refund. That would be kind of a PITA. Even if it passed that smoke test, I might break it during installation, no matter how careful I was.

I'm not at home right now, but when I get a chance, I'll take a comparison photo of the Huret derailleur and just about any other in my parts bin. It's a beautiful piece of artwork, but looking at the hinge, it seems clear no mechanical engineer was involved in the design. Not even a seat-of-the-pants engineer.
I don't know about the engineers, but I had one break like that on a28.6 True-Temper tube that had been powder coated. I assumed it was over thick powder coat (the lugs look kind of flooded) and possibly an under sized derailleur. I did not think to check the mech before I installed in and adjusted it around, then broke it.
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Old 07-29-19, 12:20 PM
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Might as well remove the clamp, polish it up and turn it into a C&V Tie-Tack: Classy & Unique.

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Old 07-29-19, 03:43 PM
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Not saying its worth the trouble, just wonder if this low temp aluminum welding (brazing really) rod would work. https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piec...q=aluminum+rod
Carried by HF and online vendors. Got some but haven't tried it yet. Has anyone experienced this fix?
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Old 07-29-19, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by smontanaro View Post
Thanks for the responses. I imagine it was probably already cracked when I removed it and that it had only maintained its integrity out of habit. Replacements aren't unobtainium (looks like $70-$100 on eBay), but what are the odds the one I purchase is already cracked? Or that it cracks while installing it?

I grabbed a SunTour Vx from the bin, so I can keep moving forward. Kind of a shame though, as the bike was completely original. I will take a look though. Perhaps I can graft the Huret cage onto the SunTour body.

SunTour - well played. No one is going to notice, well except for the sharp eyed bike nerds on BF but I am guessing that the SunTour FD will run flawlessly for years which, for me, beats all original with warts any day of the week and twice on days when you really, really, need a crisp shift to the small ring.

Last edited by ryansu; 07-30-19 at 12:22 PM.
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Old 07-30-19, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
Probably cracked before you put it on - I've been able to confirm some of those failures with pre-build photos.

You're better off with the Vx. The Jubilee shifts like crap and won't look good over the small chainrings anyway. Don't try melding the two, it isn't worth it.

And to add insult to injury, the Jubilees were anything but reliable. A Vx is a major upgrade in the reliability department, and a Vx in the rear adds to that reliability. Suntour works well, shifted way better than anything on a tourer or club bike of the day. Campy was great, so long as it was Record or Nuovo Record, Valentino and Gran Sport to put it politely, were not very good.
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Old 07-30-19, 12:27 PM
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I added a couple more pictures to the album. The first shows the difference in beefiness between the Nuovo Record and Jubilee derailleurs around the hinge.

The second offers a bit of visual evidence why Huret might have placed the hinge opposite the cage. On the cage side, I suspect it would have complicated the design of the little see-we-don't-need-to-use-a-parallelogram mechanism.

Long story short, they likely sacrificed strength for beauty.
Contact me to help Doug Fattic's colleagues in Ukraine

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Old 07-31-19, 04:08 PM
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A brazed joint should hold.
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Old 07-31-19, 06:08 PM
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Has anyone tried the "Lumi-Weld" type aluminum solder in a situation such as this? This product "sounds" like the perfect fix for this. It can be obtained at Harbor Freight and other sources. While I don't want to hijack the thread, but this seems like a possible solution.
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