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1996 Koga-Miyata SilverAce Project

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1996 Koga-Miyata SilverAce Project

Old 02-09-20, 04:06 PM
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Sexy saddle, mounted using a sexy, infinitely adjustable, but hella expensive, Brompton Pentaclip saddle clamp.
And mounted a Koga branded Axa Victory frame lock, mostly because it's all black and the blue insert sort of matches the frame.




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Old 02-13-20, 07:27 AM
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I started a thread over in the electronics subforum but since I got no replies there and it was about this bike anyway I'll try again here.

So I'm looking at a fender mounted rear dynamo light for this bike.

I have always used the B+M Secula Plus, which is an awesome light and pretty affordable at around €14 for the fender mounted version but I was wondering if anyone had experience with SON's offering?
The SON rear light for mudguard mount looks like a aluminum-housed version of the B+M Line Small (which lacks a fender-mounted version).
  • How is the sideways visibility?
  • Isn't it too much of a focused point which makes it annoying to other users behind me?
  • Would you even bother with it?
And of course, any opinions? What do you think would look better here?
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Old 02-13-20, 01:16 PM
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I have the bracket/rack mount version. I can throw it on the trainer and test it’s dispersion later tonight.
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Old 02-13-20, 02:30 PM
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I have a Spanninga Pixeo which is fender mountable. Side visibility is good.
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Old 02-13-20, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by natterberry View Post
I have the bracket/rack mount version. I can throw it on the trainer and test it’s dispersion later tonight.
Thanks, I'd appreciate that.

Originally Posted by noglider View Post
I have a Spanninga Pixeo which is fender mountable. Side visibility is good.
Thanks, I am aware of the Pixeo and there are lots of bikes around here that come with them. I like the Secula better because it is much less blinding.
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Old 03-17-20, 07:07 AM
  #106  
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Received some new parts for the bike today and it confirmed something I was afraid of for a while;
The VO Porteur bars have a tiny grip area and are not suitable for any kind of regular 22.2mm handlebar grip. These are standard 130mm clamp on grips:

I guess it's time for me to look for other handlebars as I cannot seem to find many, if any clamp-on grips that are shorter than this.





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Old 03-17-20, 08:17 AM
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This has been an excellent project, indeed! I missed the initial phase of posting and just caught up by staring at all of the photos and reading a bit of the information. I probably missed you saying so, but are you planning to run matching tires anytime soon? The rest of the bike being so spick and span seems to demand such attention to obvious details... Cheers!

-Gregory
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Old 03-17-20, 09:20 AM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by Kilroy1988 View Post
This has been an excellent project, indeed! I missed the initial phase of posting and just caught up by staring at all of the photos and reading a bit of the information. I probably missed you saying so, but are you planning to run matching tires anytime soon? The rest of the bike being so spick and span seems to demand such attention to obvious details... Cheers!

-Gregory
Thanks Gregory.

Yes I plan on using matching tyres when I buy the parts to build the front wheel next month. But a dynohub and fancy rims are expensive and sometimes hard to come by so spread out buying things so it fits within my budget.
I expect this to be done in 2-3 months from now. Just in time for summer to start around here and to enjoy longer rides.

This month I ordered the lights so I can prepare some stuff and spend some time wiring everything up just the way I want. Looking forward to figuring out how to run the wire on the inside of the rolled edge of the fenders. Should make for a very clean look.
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Old 03-19-20, 06:30 AM
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Got some lights today. I'll be taking apart the front light to strip and polish the heatsink and hopefully wire things up this weekend.

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Old 03-19-20, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JaccoW View Post
Received some new parts for the bike today and it confirmed something I was afraid of for a while;
The VO Porteur bars have a tiny grip area and are not suitable for any kind of regular 22.2mm handlebar grip.
I was in the same exact situation with the Birdy BD-1 - same bars too.

I wound up repurposing the grips on my Spin Gen 2, but in the process also ran out of space on those bars - until I realized that it's possible to cut down a set of locking grips: https://www.instructables.com/id/Sho...cycle-Grips-1/

I didn't do a great job of it, but the leather and adhesive below it wasn't that easy to cut squarely.




-Kurt
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Old 03-20-20, 03:09 AM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
I was in the same exact situation with the Birdy BD-1 - same bars too.

I wound up repurposing the grips on my Spin Gen 2, but in the process also ran out of space on those bars - until I realized that it's possible to cut down a set of locking grips: https://www.instructables.com/id/Sho...cycle-Grips-1/

I didn't do a great job of it, but the leather and adhesive below it wasn't that easy to cut squarely.
-Kurt
I was wondering about this, thanks for the tip! I have a pair of fairly cheap rubber lock-on grips on there right now as a temporary measure but that looks like a great option.
Seems like I have a few things to do this weekend.
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Old 03-20-20, 07:58 AM
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Like I mentioned yesterday I wanted to strip and polish the B+M Cyo T Premium to blend in a bit more with the rest of the bike so I spent about 2 hours sanding all the paint off and giving the heatsink a nice polish.
For more details see the thread over at the Electronics lighting and gadgets subforum but for here I just want to show the end result:



I think it works pretty well and I hope to wire everything up and drill some holes later this weekend. Probably shoot some better pictures as well.
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Old 03-21-20, 12:01 PM
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Mounted some lights today!

I gave the rear light the special treatment with a SON coaxial wire running through the rolled fender edges so it's practically invisible. I have a similar cable running through the frame to the headset so I went with one of SON's coaxial connectors. They are a pain to solder on but the end result is really nice and means I can just pop off the fender if I ever want to.
The front light was swapped to the other side to prevent water spray damage but I'm not sure I like how exposed it's going to be in racks this way. I'll think on what I want to do with that next month when I will hopefully be able to build the front dynamo wheel.






Instead of buying a new kickstand I decided to just strip and polish the old one. It was pretty corroded and the black paint was flaking off.


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Old 03-21-20, 12:28 PM
  #114  
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Wow. That bike has some serious Überholprestige!
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Old 03-21-20, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by non-fixie View Post
Wow. That bike has some serious Überholprestige!
I can't help myself.
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Old 03-21-20, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by JaccoW View Post
Mounted some lights today!

I gave the rear light the special treatment with a SON coaxial wire running through the rolled fender edges so it's practically invisible. I have a similar cable running through the frame to the headset so I went with one of SON's coaxial connectors. They are a pain to solder on but the end result is really nice and means I can just pop off the fender if I ever want to.
The front light was swapped to the other side to prevent water spray damage but I'm not sure I like how exposed it's going to be in racks this way. I'll think on what I want to do with that next month when I will hopefully be able to build the front dynamo wheel.

Instead of buying a new kickstand I decided to just strip and polish the old one. It was pretty corroded and the black paint was flaking off.
Absolutely beautiful, elegant, and at the core of the whole build, a practical bike. Wish there were more bikes like this being built in the States.

Incidentally, how stiff is the thumb shifter? I've tried to avoid them as my previous experience with indexed thumbies hasn't been that great - too stiff and too much throw for my thumb to reach without moving my palm. Are the Sturmey IGH thumbies easier to use?

-Kurt
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Old 03-22-20, 08:54 AM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
Incidentally, how stiff is the thumb shifter? I've tried to avoid them as my previous experience with indexed thumbies hasn't been that great - too stiff and too much throw for my thumb to reach without moving my palm. Are the Sturmey IGH thumbies easier to use?
As far as I can tell these are simply a variant of the Sunrace thumb shifters. The throw on these is somewhere around 150 degrees going from gear 5 to gear 1. I can make some pictures if you like?
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Old 03-22-20, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by JaccoW View Post
As far as I can tell these are simply a variant of the Sunrace thumb shifters. The throw on these is somewhere around 150 degrees going from gear 5 to gear 1. I can make some pictures if you like?
No, that's OK. It is about what I thought. Anything over 60 degrees more or less requires two fingers to move the lever, or for the hands to come off the bars.

It's no reflection upon your beautiful build, but it's just my personal preference when it comes to shifters. I don't understand why IGH thubmies don't have a larger barrel for more cable pull for each throw.

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Old 03-22-20, 09:53 AM
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Yes, I've found thumbies aren't really thumbies. I sometimes have to grasp the whole shifter with my hand as if it's a knob. Not fantastic but not awful. Maybe they should be called palmies.
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Old 03-22-20, 11:50 AM
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Yeah at best thumbies are more of a "thumb down, index finger up" tool. It's why you often see people mounting them point outwards like this.
I have one on a 3-speed Sturmey Archer hub as well and it works pretty well like this or mounted on the stem.

cudak888 I followed your advice and cut down the grips as the instructions described. Works really well on these rubber grips. I hope to be able to do the other one later this week.
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Old 03-22-20, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
Yes, I've found thumbies aren't really thumbies. I sometimes have to grasp the whole shifter with my hand as if it's a knob. Not fantastic but not awful. Maybe they should be called palmies.
Originally Posted by JaccoW View Post
Yeah at best thumbies are more of a "thumb down, index finger up" tool. It's why you often see people mounting them point outwards like this.
That's what gets me about these. The whole thumb shifter idea sounds great (the closest thing to perfection I've found is Sturmey's 3 or 4-speed trigger shifter mounted in the forward/down position), but not when half of the shifts require twisting one's wrist like they're cracking open a sticky faucet. Not my cup of tea

Originally Posted by JaccoW View Post
cudak888 I followed your advice and cut down the grips as the instructions described. Works really well on these rubber grips. I hope to be able to do the other one later this week.
Good stuff! Figured the rubber would be really easy to modify. A bit of work with the Dremel does quite well to get the plastic reshaped - took longer than I thought on mine though.

-Kurt
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Old 03-23-20, 10:51 AM
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Grips modified and much improved feel and look!



I also tried adjusting the gears with the new shifter... and promptly split the bolt in half.
I'll have to pick up a new one when I go out to the bicycleshop again or when I order the next round of parts.
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Old 03-23-20, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by JaccoW View Post
Grips modified and much improved feel and look!

I also tried adjusting the gears with the new shifter... and promptly split the bolt in half.
I'll have to pick up a new one when I go out to the bicycleshop again or when I order the next round of parts.
Looks like it was made that way - slick work there. Incidentally, that's very similar (if not the same) model of grip used on second-gen LimeBikes. The clamp at the end on the LB version is the same thickness as the front one, IIRC.

Cut that ridiculous binder bolt off, run a new cable, slide the long adjuster barrel onto the cable, then solder the smallest brass sleeve you can possibly fit onto the cable (very thin cable end caps with the tips cut off sometimes work too). It takes a bit of effort to get the length just right, but it'll be a lot nicer in both appearance and function.

-Kurt
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Old 03-30-20, 07:44 AM
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We're moving into the final phases of this build. I noticed the XL-FDD dynohub was a good €20 cheaper than it has been these past few months so I just ordered most parts to build the front wheel. The rim, a H + SON Archetype has been ordered but usually that one takes a week or two to come in. I will be measuring the combination myself before ordering the spokes and building the wheel.
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Old 04-02-20, 07:58 AM
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Got the hub, some small parts for a wheel build and the wrong tyres today. But the latter is not critical just yet.
Next up, the rim and measuring everything so I can build a wheel!

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