ToniH. 

Hello,

I have been trying to decide between these three cranks. Aesthetics are quite important to me so I was just going to go with the Stronlight ones... They seem to me the most beautiful ones but I figured that I could as well ask from here what would you guys prefer? Are there some major differences in the quality or the functional side of these?

All the best,
Toni

bikemig 

I couldn't get myself to pay $455 for a crank which is what a compass crank is going for. Heck I've never paid that much for a complete old bike.

https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop...-double-crank/

I like the TA cranks but the chainrings are fairly close together which requires a fair amount of trimming (the pay off to that is that it has a low Q factor). That may not bother you but it's something to keep in mind.

The stronglight 49d is beautiful but you may be a more limited in terms of chainrings than with a TA. TA chainrings are available new on eBay and likely other sources as well. The stronglight 49d outer is not. If the inner is a 86 bcd, then yes via Spa cycles; if 122 bcd, not really available other than used.


The Velo Orange 50.4 bcd crank is worth thinking about.

https://velo-orange.com/products/gra...-crankset-mkii

Also the 110 bcd velo orange cranks are pretty good looking.

Given the drop in the pound, the 110 bcd holdsworth crank has become very reasonable in terms of price. That would get my vote because it (a) looks right on an old bike; (b) comes with 2 very useful chainrings (48/34), and (c) is reasonably priced.


https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/CSHOCN...retro-crankset

Velo Mule

Wow, bikemig these are excellent points. I was just going to say that I like the look of the Stronglight on certain vintage bikes, however, there are limited choices if the chain rings are worn or you want a different ratio.

ToniH. 

Great points. I'm aware of the velo orange cranks but there is something bit off putting in those. They look somehow that the quality isn't on the level of these other three. But I have only seen them in pictures so I could be totally wrong.

bikemig 

I'd run some numbers through a gear calc to see if the crank you end up with does the job for you.

You didn't mention the stronglight 99 but that would get my vote if you want a vintage crank. 86 bcd chainrings are available via SPA cycles in the UK. Plus so many of those were sold that it's not that hard to find cranks and chainrings.

I just fixed up a 1970-71 Fuji with an SR apex crank also 86 bcd and had no problem sourcing chainrings (I'm running it as a triple 48/38/28). The other cool think about the stronglight 99 is that you can run either as a wide double (it does as low as 28) or as a triple.

JaccoW

And be very aware that many vintage Stronglight 49D or Spécialités TA cranks require different crank pullers. 23.35mm for the Stronglight and 23mm for the TA. Modern cranks use 22mm.

Another options, similar to the VO, is SUNXCD. Personally I prefer those over the VO's due to the lack of extra branding but that's personal taste.

EDIT: They are also use by Grand Bois, who designed a stylized custom 46/28T chainring for it.
EDIT2: And there's the Sugino PX if you can find them.


Gratuitous TA shot

clubman 

I think you're spot on your assessment of VO. They're heavy looking, not enough 'air' in them.

OTOH I like the Holdsworth!

Sir_Name 

I’m quite happy with the Stronglight 49d + TA rings on this ‘go anywhere’ bike. 50/28.

nlerner

^ +1. You can put TA rings on any 50.4 bcd crankset (Nervar also made one). As has been pointed out, you do need the correct-sized puller to remove both TA and Stronglight (two different sizes).

bikemig 

I like the SunXCD crank as well and the very useful chainring combos you get with them. There's a good reason why TA cranks were so popular for so many years.

But they run north of $300 US from Grand Bois.

Here is a UK seller who is selling the crank with TA rings for right around $200 US. A 48/32 set up is tempting.

JaccoW

I love mine with it's 52/42/26T setup. I could probably get it to work as a 48/26T with the right derailleur and have a really great high-low setup.

The cranks are rare but not impossible to get. It helps to shop around.
Velo Duo in the UK sells them for Ł89.99 + shipping. The chainrings are expensive but seem to last quite a long time.
I got most of mine from French eBay a few years ago but prices seem to have inflated a bit.

As for OP, feast your eyes on the Lamber Viscount cranks+chainring.

jeirvine 

Yup. I like the Nervar 631: they take standard pullers, and work fine with TA/Stronglight/VO rings. The Nervar rings are troublesome, as the inner uses their proprietary 128 BCD. You can modify a Shimano 130 ring in a pinch, and fit a 38t (which I have done.)

bikemig 

This is cool; I need to keep my eye out for one of these.

bikemig 

By the way, these cranks are cool because they let you run a wide ranging double. 16 tooth jumps have become fashionable again since that gives you plenty of gearing running 8 or more on the back. If running 5 on the back, there is something to be said for a triple in terms of gear ratios.

jeirvine 

Since we're on the 50.4 BCD topic, Electra Ticino made some nice arms a few years ago, and they do pop up occasionally. I have a pair, w/Stronglight rings, on my Super Course (Faux Super Tourer)

unterhausen

didn't read the whole thread, but don't the old cranks have problems with modern drivetrains, particularly FD clearance.

I almost bought a Compass crank when someone was selling a used one. If I was building a show quality randonneur, I would get a new one. I'm riding 46-34 cranks now, and probably will get a 46-30 crank soon. It would be nice to have more vintage looking options.

Road Fan

Depending on the desired gearing, the nicely-styled Holdsworth crankset might not be right.

I thought that there were two generations of TA: one early one with very narrow Q or tread, chainring spacing intended for wider 5-speed chains, and chainring to crank arm clearances that make it tough to use a modern front derailleur. I don't know if the 5-pin outer chainrings and the smaller ones that bolt to the outer were changed. The later ones were supposed to be more suited to modern narrower chains and have more clearance from the outer chainring to the crank arm. I don't recall if they added a chain-drop pin to prevent an over shifted chain from getting stuck between the chainring and the crank arm. I also recall a set of crankarm spacers that would set the older chainrings to properly shift with more modern chains.

I've been able to mount TA 5-pin chainrings on Stronglight 49d crankarms without any issues, and vice versa. I don't know what the incompatibility is that you have discovered. I also prefer the looks of the Stronglights, especially the star-spoked chainrings on a 5-pin arm like the 49d. But a wide range of chainring designs exists.

I bought a NOS Rene Herse 46/30 and I like its looks and weight quite a lot. But I'm saving it for a not-identified special build - perhaps my 1980 Woodrup frame will get restored (refreshed?) as a 10-speed compatible 700c fendered bike like a Boulder All-Road. With its standard 531 db tubeset it's a real supple ride!

bikemig 

No problem if running 50.4 bcd rings (a TA outer and inner). I'm talking about the stronglight 49d outer ring.

There's a pretty good explanation here if you're interested:

https://www.classiclightweights.co.uk...line-comp.html

And if you read my post, I was obviously not talking about modding this with TA rings since the BCDs I mentioned (122 and 86) are clearly different.

I was curious about this and started a thread on this topic here,

Talk to me about Stronglight 49d cranks.

Post no 8 has a good detailed explanation.

Road Fan

I've always had this feeling, but I never put it into words so well! Perhaps it's the high level of polishing, which I think was not how the TAs and Stronglights were originally finished 50+ years ago.

Road Fan

Chill, I read it, but I missed that point. Sorry! and tks for the link.

bikemig 

I learn stuff all the time on BF about vintage gear as well.

scarlson 

I can confirm, the old Stronglight cranks do have a bit of trouble with the front derailleur hitting the crank arm if you use a newer front derailleur. I can't speak to the TA cranks, but I know it was a problem in the early days of mountain biking, the chain would fall between the big ring and crank arm and then get jammed there, which is the supposed reason according to Frank Berto that TA's role as the definitive triple crank got usurped in the late '70s or early '80s by the 110-74. This tidbit would suggest that the TA cranks have a similar problem with clearance between the front derailleur and crank arm, at least up through the '70s.

The newer front derailleurs have more space between the inner and outer cage plate, so you run into a problem that if you set the limit screw so that the derailleur can't hit the crank arm, it won't bring the inner cage plate close enough to shift the chain onto the big ring. If you adjust it so it just makes the shift, then you'll be hitting the crank arm when it's up against the limit screw. In practice, you can carefully shift and let it hit the crank a few times and then trim it back, but it's not ideal. An old Record or Nuovo Record front derailleur has a narrow enough cage for me to solve the clearance problem, but doesn't have a very long cage plate, so it may not allow you to have the wide range gearing you may be after.

79pmooney

One advantage of the TA (and Stronglight equivalent) is the ability to do anything. 60 teeth to tiny. I did the Mt Washington time trial on a 1x5, 28 single and a 13-21 FW. I simply took an old TA outer ring, cut it down to the outer bolt circle and bolted the 28 directly to it. Light and simple. The 13-21 FW, also pretty light. Used a shortened chain and the very light Cyclone rear derailleur. (Cool being able to ride up Mt Washington with a section of usable gears, not just being stuck in low the whole time.)

Best part about it was the conversion from my full on racing bike was easy and took minutes. No shop required. The day before I raced a hard 113 mile road race. Stayed at the Appalachian Mountain Club "hut" at Tuckerman's Ravine. To convert the bike I simply took off both cranks and chain, replacing them with the TA and a shorter chain. Swapped the race wheel for my training wheel with the 13-21. Took off the bottle cages. Done. All stuff you can do with an IQ lowered 50 points by a very hard race.

Ben

ToniH. 

Thats why I'm looking for one.

These Suginos actually seem amazing. I will put my radar on if I could find some of these. Thanks for the tip!

Sir_Name 

FWIW, the Shimano CX70 fd above plays nice with the Stronglight crank arms and TA rings. No ramps/pins, but still shifts the 22t gap well enough. No interference between fd cage and crank arm, no issues dropping the chain.