Cinelli 1/A stem pinch bolt upgrade?
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Cinelli 1/A stem pinch bolt upgrade?
Does anybody make a better pinch bolt for the 1/A stem?
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Jim Merz would probably turn you one. Titanium if you want it. It'll be a work of art. Won't cost under $10 however.
may I ask what is wrong with the one you have ?
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
may I ask what is wrong with the one you have ?
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
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Since you ask (long answer): The original is getting pretty dicey regarding fit of the Allen key, and since I have put Tektro (Ergo copy) levers on the bike I am on the hoods more often, and the bars tend to slip on rough roads due to the extra moment arm my weight is applied at. I really don't want to strip that Allen head trying to apply more torque than has been needed for the last thirty years with Record levers and my hands usually on the bars, not the hoods. I am reluctant to try a touch of Fibre Grip or similar as I am not 100 percent certain it won't cause fretting in an aluminum to aluminum joint.
oldschoolbike
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That's probably an issue after such long service. It's a PITA to inspect for, with having to remove the tape and lever from one side to extract the bar. I am looking for a shorter/shallower bar that I can thread through a 1/A though, so maybe that's in the cards for sooner rather than later. Part of getting older, I guess. Those deep drops sure look manly but I am not on them much lately.
I have found stock replacement pinch bolts available for a reasonable price. Maybe I should buy two. Clearly a new one should be lubricated when installed, to maximize the pinch force for a given applied torque.
I did remove and inspect the current one. Most of the Allen key broaching is good, only the top 2 mm is damaged, leaving about 5-6 mm for good grip. In retrospect I realize the issue: The socket faces back toward the headset, and there can be limited room to maneuver the Allen key to proper alignment for full insertion. A few times over the last 30 years I probably was short on patience and applied torque before inserting the key fully.
I have found stock replacement pinch bolts available for a reasonable price. Maybe I should buy two. Clearly a new one should be lubricated when installed, to maximize the pinch force for a given applied torque.
I did remove and inspect the current one. Most of the Allen key broaching is good, only the top 2 mm is damaged, leaving about 5-6 mm for good grip. In retrospect I realize the issue: The socket faces back toward the headset, and there can be limited room to maneuver the Allen key to proper alignment for full insertion. A few times over the last 30 years I probably was short on patience and applied torque before inserting the key fully.
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That's probably an issue after such long service. It's a PITA to inspect for, with having to remove the tape and lever from one side to extract the bar. I am looking for a shorter/shallower bar that I can thread through a 1/A though, so maybe that's in the cards for sooner rather than later. Part of getting older, I guess. Those deep drops sure look manly but I am not on them much lately.
I have found stock replacement pinch bolts available for a reasonable price. Maybe I should buy two. Clearly a new one should be lubricated when installed, to maximize the pinch force for a given applied torque.
I did remove and inspect the current one. Most of the Allen key broaching is good, only the top 2 mm is damaged, leaving about 5-6 mm for good grip. In retrospect I realize the issue: The socket faces back toward the headset, and there can be limited room to maneuver the Allen key to proper alignment for full insertion. A few times over the last 30 years I probably was short on patience and applied torque before inserting the key fully.
I have found stock replacement pinch bolts available for a reasonable price. Maybe I should buy two. Clearly a new one should be lubricated when installed, to maximize the pinch force for a given applied torque.
I did remove and inspect the current one. Most of the Allen key broaching is good, only the top 2 mm is damaged, leaving about 5-6 mm for good grip. In retrospect I realize the issue: The socket faces back toward the headset, and there can be limited room to maneuver the Allen key to proper alignment for full insertion. A few times over the last 30 years I probably was short on patience and applied torque before inserting the key fully.




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That's a good trick, Van !
Remember too that not just any bar will fit these ! you need the correct size Cinelli bar, 26.4mm diameter. If you use a bar that is 25.4 or 26.0 diameter, both of which are common bar diameters, you won't be able to get it tight enough and may crack the clamp.
If you have to resort to "carbon paste" or other band-aids to keep the bar from slipping, something is not right.
Lastly - allen keys do get worn out and can damage fasteners. Treat yourself to a new set of allen wrenches (the Wera allens are awesome) or touch the business end to a bench grinder every year or so.
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
Remember too that not just any bar will fit these ! you need the correct size Cinelli bar, 26.4mm diameter. If you use a bar that is 25.4 or 26.0 diameter, both of which are common bar diameters, you won't be able to get it tight enough and may crack the clamp.
If you have to resort to "carbon paste" or other band-aids to keep the bar from slipping, something is not right.
Lastly - allen keys do get worn out and can damage fasteners. Treat yourself to a new set of allen wrenches (the Wera allens are awesome) or touch the business end to a bench grinder every year or so.
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA

Last edited by mpetry912; 09-30-19 at 05:38 AM.
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That's a good trick, Van !
Remember too that not just any bar will fit these ! you need the correct size Cinelli bar, 26.4mm diameter. If you use a bar that is 25.4 or 26.0 diameter, both of which are common bar diameters, you won't be able to get it tight enough and may crack the clamp.
If you have to resort to "carbon paste" or other band-aids to keep the bar from slipping, something is not right.
Lastly - allen keys do get worn out and can damage fasteners. Treat yourself to a new set of allen wrenches (the Wera allens are awesome) or touch the business end to a bench grinder every year or so.
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA

Remember too that not just any bar will fit these ! you need the correct size Cinelli bar, 26.4mm diameter. If you use a bar that is 25.4 or 26.0 diameter, both of which are common bar diameters, you won't be able to get it tight enough and may crack the clamp.
If you have to resort to "carbon paste" or other band-aids to keep the bar from slipping, something is not right.
Lastly - allen keys do get worn out and can damage fasteners. Treat yourself to a new set of allen wrenches (the Wera allens are awesome) or touch the business end to a bench grinder every year or so.
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA


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No need for wrench boosters on allens. That's what 3/8 drive sockets are for. this is an 8mm shortie. Comes in real handy especially when using the torque wrench !
but my point is - your allen keys DO wear out and can damage fasteners. Get new ones or clean 'em up with your bench grinder. WAY cheaper than replacing fasteners on your bike
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
but my point is - your allen keys DO wear out and can damage fasteners. Get new ones or clean 'em up with your bench grinder. WAY cheaper than replacing fasteners on your bike
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA

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...I would like to avail myself of this opportunity to say that, IMO, the Cinelli 1A pinch bolt is an example of the worst in Italian engineering design. It's right up there with the Fiat 124 and the Caproni 60 Noviplano airplane. I hate them.
...I would like to avail myself of this opportunity to say that, IMO, the Cinelli 1A pinch bolt is an example of the worst in Italian engineering design. It's right up there with the Fiat 124 and the Caproni 60 Noviplano airplane. I hate them.

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That's what shims are for. Many people cut them out of old soda or beer cans. Nitto offers purpose-made handlebar shims. I have a roll of brass shim stock I use for this.
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No need for wrench boosters on allens. That's what 3/8 drive sockets are for. this is an 8mm shortie. Comes in real handy especially when using the torque wrench !
but my point is - your allen keys DO wear out and can damage fasteners. Get new ones or clean 'em up with your bench grinder. WAY cheaper than replacing fasteners on your bike
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA

but my point is - your allen keys DO wear out and can damage fasteners. Get new ones or clean 'em up with your bench grinder. WAY cheaper than replacing fasteners on your bike
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA


There's always a need for boosters, breaker and cheater bars at some point, much better to be prepared and plan for it when necessary, fail to plan, plan to fail.
Especially with crappy hard to source bike fasteners like this, be careful, keep em going and ride on.

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No, that 8mm shortie is for crank arm bolts, it won't work on the 1/a or even on the Cinelli Mod 1 stem which has a 7mm allen head quill bolt. Most of those bolts are compromised because it's hard to find an allen key in that size. However, Cinelli made them. I have a couple different ones in 7 and also 6 mm. They are rare but not impossible to find now, I got these for a buck back in the day.
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA

Last edited by mpetry912; 10-04-19 at 08:53 AM.
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Wera and other "nice" tool companies make Hex keys with extra short "short" ends; they are invaluable in situations like these. I would also like to call out @merziac for casually flashing a lined drawer full of Snap-On. The young people call that #lowkey #flex #humblebrag , lol.
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Wera and other "nice" tool companies make Hex keys with extra short "short" ends; they are invaluable in situations like these. I would also like to call out @merziac for casually flashing a lined drawer full of Snap-On. The young people call that #lowkey #flex #humblebrag , lol.


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I would also like to call out @merziac for casually flashing a lined drawer full of Snap-On.
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Yes but it looks like NoMadMax has "trumped" my ace on Snap-On. Sounds like another tool box thread coming on.
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA
Mark Petry
Bainbridge Island, WA USA

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Thanks, I will look up Jim Merz. Titanium would be nice, it would be sympathetic with some other Ti touches on that bike.
Since you ask (long answer): The original is getting pretty dicey regarding fit of the Allen key, and since I have put Tektro (Ergo copy) levers on the bike I am on the hoods more often, and the bars tend to slip on rough roads due to the extra moment arm my weight is applied at. I really don't want to strip that Allen head trying to apply more torque than has been needed for the last thirty years with Record levers and my hands usually on the bars, not the hoods. I am reluctant to try a touch of Fibre Grip or similar as I am not 100 percent certain it won't cause fretting in an aluminum to aluminum joint.
oldschoolbike
Since you ask (long answer): The original is getting pretty dicey regarding fit of the Allen key, and since I have put Tektro (Ergo copy) levers on the bike I am on the hoods more often, and the bars tend to slip on rough roads due to the extra moment arm my weight is applied at. I really don't want to strip that Allen head trying to apply more torque than has been needed for the last thirty years with Record levers and my hands usually on the bars, not the hoods. I am reluctant to try a touch of Fibre Grip or similar as I am not 100 percent certain it won't cause fretting in an aluminum to aluminum joint.
oldschoolbike
1- The need for a short L allen wrench. Try it with a 70mm stem sometime. I did not seek such a wrench, but did find one; it was nominated and forced to serve. Get someone to grind one off if needed.
2-The bolt can "bottom out." Washers are your friend, but of course, it's Italian, so the washer is fairly difficult to find. I've had to make do once by using the seat post binder washer and a recessed brake nut. One brake was preferable, 12 miles out, than walking with a loose bar.
Always check #2 above first, to save time. Keep a stash of bolts from old stems, and washers (from stem bolts, clamp bolts, and seatpost binder bolts.
@crank_addict once saved a memorable ride for me by rummaging for same in his trunk of bike parts. Yes, literally the trunk of his car. Of course, then his Bottechia broke on the ride.
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Worse than the Cinelli 1/R, even?
