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Crushed Campy dropout: How would you fix it?

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Crushed Campy dropout: How would you fix it?

Old 10-29-19, 07:26 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 63rickert View Post
Is it forged or is it microfusion?
From the picture, it appears to be a Campagnolo 1010B dropout, post portacatena drilling, so probably early 80s. These are forged, mild steel dropouts and should be amenable careful bending. The chrome plating may well crack with this, but not necessarily the underlying steel.

I'd say go ahead with bending it back into shape. You're no worse off if it does crack, as the other alternative is already dropout replacement. But as I mentioned, a crack in the chrome does not necessarily mean a crack in the steel, so if you see a crack, pick off the surrounding chrome to visualize the underlying steel.
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Old 10-29-19, 07:50 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 63rickert View Post
Is it forged or is it microfusion? I can't tell from here. Old long ones as in gugie's photo are never a problem. Some of the real old ones are not even forged, they're just chromoly and you can do anything to them. Microfusion is gonna crack. Try it and see. If it cracks it was gonna crack and no subtleties of technique would have made the least difference.
Good point.
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Old 10-30-19, 01:30 PM
  #28  
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As it was bent from pressure on the derailleur I would bolt a chunk of steel in it's place and lever on that- I worked in autobody repair and we always tried to reverse the dents as done
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Old 10-30-19, 01:43 PM
  #29  
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Old 10-30-19, 03:26 PM
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Waiting for post-pix

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Old 10-30-19, 03:37 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
Lower half of dropout in vise (with aluminum jaw inserts, of course), and use the frame VERY SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY as leverage.


-Kurt
This. I'd prefer hard maple blocks on a woodworkers vise just because I have them. I think the dropout adjuster screws should be in place.
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Old 10-30-19, 04:03 PM
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What about a ball joint/tie rod fork? That seems like a good tool for the job.
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Old 10-30-19, 04:24 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by seypat View Post
What about a ball joint/tie rod fork? That seems like a good tool for the job.
That's actually not a bad idea if you could get them small enough. There isn't much room in that dropout opening anymore.
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Old 10-30-19, 04:28 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by gugie View Post
Waiting for post-pix

As mentioned earlier Iím working remotely with the owner. We have a plan and are waiting to see if shipping insurance comes into play (highly unlikely but trying).

But yes, will post follow up pics.
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Old 10-30-19, 06:46 PM
  #35  
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If this doesn't end well, i.e. two pieces, the hanger could still be useful to someone for a repair.
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Old 10-30-19, 08:41 PM
  #36  
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I would not feel safe riding on that dropout, period. Where it's bent is the weakest portion, with the least metal: the turnaround with the adjuster hole through it. A bend like that has surely exceeded the elastic limit of the material, and it seems to me that the steel must be partially fractured, even if it looks OK.
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Old 10-30-19, 11:06 PM
  #37  
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If you are worried about a crack after you straighten it, have it magnafluxed, could be relatively cheap at just about any great motor machine shop.
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Old 11-18-19, 06:34 AM
  #38  
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Pictures are out of order but....

A. Owner used a variation of the 2 axle technique to open dropout. RD hanger bolt was threaded in and tightened. Its hollow allowing for a screw driver to be passed through. From there it was simply applying even pressure on both sides to open it a bit.

B. The owners with suggested a lead pipe for the final opening. Diameter was big enough to fit over entire lower section. Because it was lead, a sifter material, there was no worry that it'd mar up the drop out. A little leverage on long pipe is all it took

C. I've zoomed in on close up pics (not posted) and I think its OK. There appears to be crack but its not, its metal deformation from when it was compressed then stretched back.

Last edited by miamijim; 11-18-19 at 06:50 AM.
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Old 11-18-19, 06:49 AM
  #39  
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Old 11-18-19, 06:51 AM
  #40  
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Looks like just the chrome is cracked a little. Tap it with a small wrench. Does it make a "ting" or a dull sound like a tunk?
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Old 11-18-19, 07:30 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by NoControl View Post
Looks like just the chrome is cracked a little. Tap it with a small wrench. Does it make a "ting" or a dull sound like a tunk?
No doubt. Good point on the wrench tap....
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Old 11-18-19, 07:31 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by miamijim View Post
No doubt. Good point on the wrench tap....
Nice job in the procedure, by the way!
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Old 11-18-19, 07:36 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by NoControl View Post
Nice job in the procedure, by the way!
Haha...wish I could take the credit. A lot of it came directly from this thread, I was just an intermediary as the frames 1,000 miles away. I really like the '2 axle technique'. As a side note, the seller bailed and said, 'tough luck'. The shippers insurance said, "tough luck, poor packaging". Paypal came through with the requested partial refund, the buyer filed an "item as not described" claim. In the end it work out ok.
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Old 11-18-19, 06:41 PM
  #44  
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So does it ting or what?

I've found cracks in dishware that way.. couldn't see them easily, but that dull thud is a giveaway.

Last edited by riva; 11-18-19 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 11-18-19, 06:46 PM
  #45  
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Moral of the story...always have an axle stuffed in there during shipment.

-Kurt
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Old 11-18-19, 08:44 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
Moral of the story...always have an axle stuffed in there during shipment.

-Kurt
I sent a frame for repaint, made custom wood fillers to fill the whole slot with lands to keep the width dimension, same with the fork, special reusable packing... With instruction to make an easy repeat.
Painter stated he had never seen a frame packed so well.
returned 26 weeks later (est was 12 weeks) not my packaging, dropout partly closed up...
So it goes.
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Old 11-18-19, 09:18 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by repechage View Post
I sent a frame for repaint, made custom wood fillers to fill the whole slot with lands to keep the width dimension, same with the fork, special reusable packing... With instruction to make an easy repeat.
Painter stated he had never seen a frame packed so well.
returned 26 weeks later (est was 12 weeks) not my packaging, dropout partly closed up...
So it goes.
The stories of inconsistencies with painters just never seems to end.

-Kurt
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Old 11-19-19, 05:44 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by repechage View Post
I sent a frame for repaint, made custom wood fillers to fill the whole slot with lands to keep the width dimension, same with the fork, special reusable packing... With instruction to make an easy repeat.
Painter stated he had never seen a frame packed so well.
returned 26 weeks later (est was 12 weeks) not my packaging, dropout partly closed up...
So it goes.
It doesn't make sense, does it? Hopefully you mention that when asked for a review.
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Old 11-19-19, 06:51 AM
  #49  
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It appears to me that the lower portion of the DO performs two functions. First is the location and mounting of the RD. Second is a surface for clamping. The upper part of the DO supports the weight of the bike and rider and where all the forces are applied, not the lower half. So how robust does it really need to be?
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Old 11-19-19, 09:12 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by SJX426 View Post
It appears to me that the lower portion of the DO performs two functions. First is the location and mounting of the RD. Second is a surface for clamping. The upper part of the DO supports the weight of the bike and rider and where all the forces are applied, not the lower half. So how robust does it really need to be?
I had this exact conversation with the owner. If one were to cut off the lower section how different would it be from a vertical dropout? Differences for sure but what does the lower portion really do?
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