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Restoration/Preservation of Raleigh Competition G. S.

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Restoration/Preservation of Raleigh Competition G. S.

Old 11-10-19, 07:10 PM
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Classtime 
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Restoration/Preservation of Raleigh Competition G. S.

I got it with much of the Catalog Spec. Missing a wheel, the rear rim is an Ambrosio Elite,
the FW is a Suntour 13/28 and obviously the saddle.
First concern is the preservation of the decals. I'm looking for advice on removing some
oxidation while not harming the graphics and preserving the graphics from the abuse of normal riding and handling.


Not a candidate for refinishing.

Last edited by Classtime; 11-10-19 at 07:32 PM. Reason: additions
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Old 11-11-19, 08:53 AM
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That looks really nice. I would wash the frame very lightly with a windex, or something very mild. That may not do much, I also like to wipe down everything with a motor oil or wd40. That will do wonders of course you will need to careful at the decals. On top of that one can do wax or a little more aggressive some rubbing compound.

That should clean very well.
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Old 11-11-19, 12:58 PM
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+1 on clean and wax.
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Old 11-11-19, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Classtime View Post
I got it with much of the Catalog Spec. Missing a wheel, the rear rim is an Ambrosio Elite,
the FW is a Suntour 13/28 and obviously the saddle.
First concern is the preservation of the decals. I'm looking for advice on removing some
oxidation while not harming the graphics and preserving the graphics from the abuse of normal riding and handling.
Hey, nice bike there! Almost all there and it looks like a garage queen. Yep, you do need to find a new saddle. The Grab-On grips are quaint and period correct, but c'mon. Oddly enough they are still in business. Pretty sure OEM would be cotton tape.

WD40 is pretty good for general bike cleaning. It's pretty much all we used when I worked in bike shops BITD. Before sealed bearings, anything with water in it was considered a no no. Whatever you use, test on a small spot first.

A very mild compound like Meguiars 17 "plastic cleaner" should be enough to remove surface oxidation and bring up the shine without harming the decals. Follow with wax.
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Old 11-11-19, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Classtime View Post
... and preserving the graphics from the abuse of normal riding and handling.


Not a candidate for refinishing.
...I used to just clean, wax and ride. But lately, having done some complete repaints that I finished with a final coat of epoxy clear coat, I'm of the opinion that if you're up to a lot of work, in terms of stripping off all the parts and components (IOW prepping for a repaint), and have someplace out in the back yard where you can spray it out, coating everything with SprayMaxx 2k is probably the most durable coating you can achieve for trying to save the original graphics.

I did this on a '58 Lenton recently, and it turned out well. Also just did it on this Stella. But the whole thing is much more labor and time intensive than cleaning and waxing.

The paint itself is a remarkable advance for us home project painters, and dries to a very hard, clear, glossy finish that is almost as durable as Imron. You buy it at an automotive paints place, or online. You want the "Clear Glamour" version. One can is just about the right amount for a frame and fork, or maybe a frame and two forks if you're doing another project at the same time.
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Old 11-11-19, 02:36 PM
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.^^^^
...addendum: if you do decide to do this, mask off the chrome. In my experience it is a mistake to put a clear finish like this over polished chrome. It seems to adhere pretty well to older paint surfaces that are securely bonded to the underlying surface, but there will probably be some problems getting it to adhere well to polished chrome. Not right away, probably, but somewhere down the line.
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Old 11-11-19, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
.^^^^
...addendum: if you do decide to do this, mask off the chrome. In my experience it is a mistake to put a clear finish like this over polished chrome.
Lacquers work better for this. I like Mohawk M102-0420 'tone finish' clear gloss. It's in a rattle can, sticks to the chrome and flows out nicely. It's tough to tell that it's there, and it will come off with acetone if need be.

I like bronze wool followd by simichrome to clean and polish chrome. Treat with rust remover first if necessary.

I personally would not clear over the paint. I can see the practical arguments, but to me it just ruins the vintage look. I prefer restorations that are reversible. Just my preference.
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Old 11-11-19, 06:51 PM
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I removed everything but the fixed cup, then washed and waxed trying to be careful with the decals. Man, those things are delicate. I used nail polish on part of the 531 but it is too thick. I plan to brush on some reconstituted spray lacquer to protect the decals and touch up the scrapes with Testors.
Wish I could replace the pads and keep the holders.


531!


How hard is it to put on a sticker?
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Old 11-11-19, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Salamandrine View Post
Lacquers work better for this....

I personally would not clear over the paint. I can see the practical arguments, but to me it just ruins the vintage look. I prefer restorations that are reversible...
...the fragility of lacquer paints is why I end up doing a lot of my repaints anyway. I'm one of those, "Why would god give me Imron if he didn't want me to use it ?" people. I think maybe I developed this method of painting as an outflow of my prior experience with art glass. We pretty much clear cased over everything as a final layer, so to my eye it looks swell.

To the OP: be careful putting reconstituted lacquer over those decals. It's a good test of just how "fragile" they are. The solvents in lacquer paints can bubble them a little, and it happens faster than you can say, "Awwww, crap."
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Old 11-11-19, 07:35 PM
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the zip ties must go
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Old 11-11-19, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ryansu View Post
the zip ties must go
They are placeholders.
I only have two of the Weinmann clips and they will go on when I get brake lever hoods and new cables.
I'm troubled by the Campy 626a. How low should the guide be positioned. Should that little tab rest against the BB.The front derailleur cable hits the seat tube.
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Old 11-11-19, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
...the fragility of lacquer paints is why I end up doing a lot of my repaints anyway. I'm one of those, "Why would god give me Imron if he didn't want me to use it ?" people. I think maybe I developed this method of painting as an outflow of my prior experience with art glass. We pretty much clear cased over everything as a final layer, so to my eye it looks swell.
Just to clarify: My suggestion was for lacquer over the chrome sections only - that is if Classtime wants to clear the chrome. I do not suggest lacquer over the paint and decals. Mask the painted section off completely. Lacquer clear over paint has been done in the past, but it's asking for trouble: crackles, decal lifting, etc. I agree with you on the danger to decals.
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Old 11-11-19, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Classtime View Post
I'm troubled by the Campy 626a. How low should the guide be positioned. Should that little tab rest against the BB.The front derailleur cable hits the seat tube.
I've always put those as low as they will go, and that works for me.
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Old 11-11-19, 09:13 PM
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Those front brake pad holders look the business for mountain descending, cooling fins.
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Old 11-11-19, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jamesdak View Post
Those front brake pad holders look the business for mountain descending, cooling fins.

...I'm pretty sure those are the bonded pads with heat fins that everyone tossed out when there were some reports of adhesive failures at the pad/finned holder interface. I forget the name, and I could be wrong. I have some I've been afraid to use after I removed them from a project bike.
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Old 11-11-19, 10:51 PM
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Matthauser brake pads. I would keep 'em just for show.
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Old 11-12-19, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
...I'm pretty sure those are the bonded pads with heat fins that everyone tossed out when there were some reports of adhesive failures at the pad/finned holder interface. I forget the name, and I could be wrong. I have some I've been afraid to use after I removed them from a project bike.

Wow, I was just sort of kidding about the cooling. That really was a thing?
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Old 11-12-19, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by jamesdak View Post
Wow, I was just sort of kidding about the cooling. That really was a thing?
Is a thing. Seems Scott Mathouser is still around. And Koolstop makes a version.
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Old 11-12-19, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Classtime View Post
Is a thing. Seems Scott Mathouser is still around. And Koolstop makes a version.
Hmmm......

I have literally had smoke coming off my front brake two years in a row when I overcooked a horsebend turn during a descent at the Tour De Park City. Felt like an idiot doing the same stupid thing on the same turn because I forgot, LOL!
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Old 11-12-19, 09:54 AM
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FWIW it's Yokozuna that makes the current licensed version of the Scott Mathauser 'superbrake' pads.

Yokozuna Premium Cables, Housing and Brake Pads

These have inserted not glued on pads so they are more safe than the original.

It's usually been argued that the insulating properties of the rubber pad made the fins irrelevant. I'm not sure that's entirely true, but it's mostly true. The rim itself is the main heat sink, by far.

FWIW. Some vendors still have the identical looking but Scott-Mathauser branded modernized superbrake pads. Not sure if that's NOS, what the deal is between them and Yokozuna, or if they are still making them in Oregon or wherever it was.

Last edited by Salamandrine; 11-12-19 at 10:10 AM.
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Old 11-13-19, 07:29 AM
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Still needs new brake blocks.


Just about done..
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Old 11-13-19, 08:06 AM
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Looks great!!!
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