Restoring a 1936 BSA Light Roadster 2
01-06-20, 12:52 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 309
Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)1973 Colnago Super, 4)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 5)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 6)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 7)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 8)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 9)1948 Humber Clubman. 10) 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Liked 76 Times
in
34 Posts
Restoring a 1936 BSA Light Roadster 2
This is the completion of the restoration of my 1936 BSA Light Roadster written about earlier.
You can see this at:- Restoring a 1936 BSA Light Roadster
The bike is completed and is regularly ridden. I completed all the tasks stated in my earlier post:-
Namely;-
1) Dismantle, clean and rebuild the 3 Speed Hub. To do this I have had to design a special tool to remove the hub end cap which is recessed inside the brake drum so no spanner purchase possible. This was done and the BSA 3 Speed stripped, cleaned and re-assembled.
2) Dismantle the wheels to clean up hubs and rims, refinish rims and build with new spokes.
3) Re-assemble all the brake linkages onto the frame.
4) Re-assemble the pedals with new ball bearings and re-fit pedals & Cranks to bike.
Finally the bike assembly was completed and all adjustments and fine tuning carried out.
Repainting all the small components after de-rusting.
Wheels rebuilt with Stainless Spokes after Rims Powder Coated.
Partially rebuilt as components refurbished
View of Rear Wheel with BSA 3 Speed & Hub Brake.
View of Front Wheel with BSA Hub Brake.
Another view of BSA front Hub Brake.
View of Bottom Bracket.
BSA chainwheel, original chrome finish survived well.
Completed Bike with original 1929 Lucas Challis Bell and Rear Carrier.
You can see this at:- Restoring a 1936 BSA Light Roadster
The bike is completed and is regularly ridden. I completed all the tasks stated in my earlier post:-
Namely;-
1) Dismantle, clean and rebuild the 3 Speed Hub. To do this I have had to design a special tool to remove the hub end cap which is recessed inside the brake drum so no spanner purchase possible. This was done and the BSA 3 Speed stripped, cleaned and re-assembled.
2) Dismantle the wheels to clean up hubs and rims, refinish rims and build with new spokes.
3) Re-assemble all the brake linkages onto the frame.
4) Re-assemble the pedals with new ball bearings and re-fit pedals & Cranks to bike.
Finally the bike assembly was completed and all adjustments and fine tuning carried out.
Repainting all the small components after de-rusting.
Wheels rebuilt with Stainless Spokes after Rims Powder Coated.
Partially rebuilt as components refurbished
View of Rear Wheel with BSA 3 Speed & Hub Brake.
View of Front Wheel with BSA Hub Brake.
Another view of BSA front Hub Brake.
View of Bottom Bracket.
BSA chainwheel, original chrome finish survived well.
Completed Bike with original 1929 Lucas Challis Bell and Rear Carrier.
__________________
Cuius summa inventa
Cuius summa inventa
Last edited by PeterLYoung; 01-06-20 at 01:08 PM.
Likes For PeterLYoung:
01-06-20, 12:59 PM
#2
Senior Member
Looks great! Well done. Enjoy!
Likes For Salamandrine:
Likes For crank_addict:
Likes For BigChief:
Likes For markk900:
01-07-20, 07:38 AM
#6
Junior Member
Great job.
Are you using the original pedals?
I just finished working on a 1939 Elswick. (I posted some pics in the English 3 speeds thread). I decided that the 80 year old rubber blocks on my pedals were beyond hope.
Are you using the original pedals?
I just finished working on a 1939 Elswick. (I posted some pics in the English 3 speeds thread). I decided that the 80 year old rubber blocks on my pedals were beyond hope.
Likes For bluesteak:
01-07-20, 08:29 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: northern michigan
Posts: 13,289
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 654 Post(s)
Liked 560 Times
in
301 Posts
Good job!
Likes For OldsCOOL:
01-07-20, 04:01 PM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 309
Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)1973 Colnago Super, 4)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 5)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 6)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 7)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 8)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 9)1948 Humber Clubman. 10) 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Liked 76 Times
in
34 Posts
Originally Posted by bluesteak
Great job.
Are you using the original pedals?
I just finished working on a 1939 Elswick. (I posted some pics in the English 3 speeds thread). I decided that the 80 year old rubber blocks on my pedals were beyond hope.
Are you using the original pedals?
I just finished working on a 1939 Elswick. (I posted some pics in the English 3 speeds thread). I decided that the 80 year old rubber blocks on my pedals were beyond hope.
Your rubbers are really worn but replacements turn up on eBay from time to time so I would overhaul the pedals and look for replacement rubbers. Good luck!!!
__________________
Cuius summa inventa
Cuius summa inventa
01-07-20, 04:51 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,240
Mentioned: 103 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1299 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 96 Times
in
80 Posts
I think it's a good bet those pedals are original. The blocks might have been replaced at some point, but those end plates are what I see on Birmingham bikes up until the mid 50s or so. They changed to the flat diamond shaped end plates around the same time as Raleigh did.
__________________
Inflate Hard
Inflate Hard
01-07-20, 07:52 PM
#11
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 15
Bikes: 1973 Schwinn Super Sport, 1981 AustroDaimler SLE, 1981 Miyata 912, 1985 Trek 510, 1986 Schwinn Paramount, 1990 Team Miyata
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
Your project turned out really well.
01-07-20, 11:40 PM
#12
Not lost wanderer.
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Kampong Cham, Cambodia but I have quite a few in Lancaster, PA
Posts: 3,155
Bikes: Bikes in USA; 73 Raleigh SuperCourse dingle speed, 72 Raleigh GranSport SS, 72 Geoffry Butler, 81 Centurion Pro-Tour, 82 Raleigh RRA.
Mentioned: 70 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 826 Post(s)
Liked 799 Times
in
432 Posts
How about a few details of the build; wheel size, pics of the brakes, cockpit view, rear view,
Nice Build, I was hoping my Gazelle would end up looking similar to this but it got over built and way too heavy
Speaking of heavy, what does it weigh?
This is what a roadster should look like.
Nice Build, I was hoping my Gazelle would end up looking similar to this but it got over built and way too heavy
Speaking of heavy, what does it weigh?
This is what a roadster should look like.
01-08-20, 11:08 AM
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 309
Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)1973 Colnago Super, 4)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 5)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 6)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 7)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 8)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 9)1948 Humber Clubman. 10) 1949 Sunbeam WA3 Wayfarer
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Liked 76 Times
in
34 Posts
Originally Posted by bwilli88
How about a few details of the build; wheel size, pics of the brakes, cockpit view, rear view,
Nice Build, I was hoping my Gazelle would end up looking similar to this but it got over built and way too heavy
Speaking of heavy, what does it weigh?
This is what a roadster should look like.
Nice Build, I was hoping my Gazelle would end up looking similar to this but it got over built and way too heavy
Speaking of heavy, what does it weigh?
This is what a roadster should look like.
The wheel size is 26" x 1-1/2". They were chromed originally, then painted black by a previous owner but I had the rims Powder Coated black to preserve them, fortunately with Hub Brakes the rims aren't subject to brake wear.
The brakes are drum brakes and there are photos above showing the exterior of the brake drums.
The previous owner had carried out some repairs to the fenders and these were very nicely done with riveted plates and I did not touch these other than to re paint the fenders, they add character.
Below are some photos showing more aspects of restoration which I hope answer your request.
To strip the BSA Hub I had to design and have made a special extractor tool to remove/unscrew the 3 speed end cap inside the brake drum. I completely stripped the hub so it could be cleaned and rebuilt with new bearings and re lubricated. No parts had to be replaced fortunately.
Front Brake before restoration.
Rear Brake before restoration.
Handlebars view.
Rear View, The White area on rear fender is a proprietary Celluloid material of wartime supply or earlier bolted on to the fender.
Close up of Celluloid accessory, you can just about read the proprietary name "The Leader" made by B and T (Components) Ltd.
Stripping Rear Hub to overhaul BSA 3 Speed, required a special Extractor Tool you can see on the ground.
Extractor Tool in position to undo the 3 Speed end cap.
__________________
Cuius summa inventa
Cuius summa inventa
Last edited by PeterLYoung; 01-13-20 at 07:28 AM. Reason: Add Information
Likes For PeterLYoung:
