Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Sunbeam W3 Wayfarer No S48571 1949/50 Part 2

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Sunbeam W3 Wayfarer No S48571 1949/50 Part 2

Old 01-15-20, 10:05 AM
  #1  
PeterLYoung 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
PeterLYoung's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Southport, North Carolina, USA & Pevensey, East Sussex, UK
Posts: 268

Bikes: 1)1992 Trek 970, 2)2010 Trek 6500, 3)2012 Trek Fuel EX7. 4)1974 Colnago Super, 5)1955 Freddie Grubb Meteor. 6)1993 Airborne Ti-Hag Titanium. 7)1936 BSA 602DX Roadster. 8)1957 Philips P2 Sports. 9)1955 Dayton Roadmaster. 10)1948 Humber Clubman.

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 132 Post(s)
Liked 19 Times in 13 Posts
Sunbeam W3 Wayfarer No S48571 1949/50 Part 2

I have decided that for now this Sunbeam is going to get the oily rag treatment plus a full strip and clean, replacing all ball bearings and lubrication. The reason is I am doing a full restoration on the Humber Beeston Clubman which is proving to be expensive as parts for that are hard to find and then costly when found and I want to get this Sunbeam rideable so I can use it. The paintwork is poor and looks to have been overpainted so there is rust on the frame and under the paint so I will ultimately have to get it repainted if only to get all the rust killed but oily rag treatment will have to suffice for now.

(Part 1 can be seen at: Sunbeam W3 Wayfarer No S48571 1949/50)

First I removed the rear wheel to strip and rebuilt the BSA 3 Speed hub. One of the issues people have with the Sunbeam Little Oil Bath Chain Case is that it is a pain to get the rear wheel out. You have to split the chain and do it without losing it inside the chain case. It is tricky but I managed to attached wires to retain the ends of the chain and after removing the rear mudguard got the wheel out. I have experience of BSA 3 Speeds and so proceeded to strip the hub, well it was pretty messy inside containing a sort of rusty oil and what appeared to be congealed grease. Because the chain case bathes the chain in oil continuously the 3 speed was very oily at the drive side, congealed grease like material in the centre and dry as a bone at the non-drive side bearing, luckily though the bearing housing and cone were not damaged. I stripped and cleaned all the parts and found a pawl spring was missing but was nowhere inside the hub which I believe had never before been dismantled, anyway I have two spare complete BSA 3 Speed Hubs so I took one from a spare and replaced the missing spring and rebuilt the hub replacing all the ball bearings and set it up ready to put the rear wheel back on the bike. A new tyre/tube was also fitted.

Next I removed the Chainwheel, Bottom Bracket and Chain Case . I wanted to clean the chain case so I could fill it with Clean Oil when re assembled. The Bottom Bracket spindle had suffered Brinelling on the non-drive side where it had dried out so I needed a new spindle, the cups were fine and could be re used. Sunbeams have a narrow shell width of 64mm on account of the oil bath chain case, fortunately in my selection box of BB spindles I had a correct size. When removing the nearside bearing cup it was very stiff and felt forced in so when I trial assembled the BB I could not get the correct adjustment. It was necessary to re cut the non-drive side BB 24tpi thread to enable correct adjustment.

Now I was ready to re assemble the Chain Case and Drive and re install the chain. I have to say I do not want to have to do this again as it is a total pain getting the chain around the chain wheel. I had to orientate the bike so the line through the wheel axles was vertical in my bike holder then dangle the chain down the chain case and loop it over the chain wheel then retain it at the rear of the chain case while fitting the rear wheel so the two ends could be joined over the rear sprocket. This is no easy task and fortunately I fitted a new tyre and tube to the wheel before installing it so hopefully I never have to remove the wheel again (at least until I have the frame repainted at some point in the future). Anyway this all was completed and the drive is all working correctly. I stripped and rebuilt the pedals with new ball bearings and re fitted them to the cranks.

Next the Head Stock, Disconnect the brake cables and 3 Speed shifter and remove the Handlebars complete with stem. Stem would not budge so I fitted a spare front wheel spindle in the front forks and then clamped the spindle in the vice so I could get a purchase on the handlebars and rotated them pulling them out at same time, they were stiff but it worked.

Removed the stem clamp and then the forks from the frame, bearing cups then removed for cleaning and ball bearing replacement. The headstock bearings were 3/16” at bottom and 1/8” at the top, never seen this before, always found them previously to be the same size. Cleaned everything up and re assembled with new ball bearings (well-greased) and adjusted same.

Front wheel was rebuilt with new bearings and a new tyre/tube was fitted.

Lastly the brake cables were cleaned and oil injected into them using a special clamped on adapter. This is a messy process as oil leaks out of the adapter and all the cracks and gaps in the outer sheath fabric but managed to get oil through the cables. Brakes were dismantled /cleaned and greased. Then the brakes were re-assembled onto the bike. Original brake shoes fitted but new ones on the way to be fitted when they arrive.

The bike had a Sturmey Archer Trigger Shifter which is incorrect and it should have a BSA Shifter with the BSA 3 Speed, I guess the original failed so the SA shifter was substituted, (It does work OK with the gears) I managed to obtain a correct BSA Shifter but found it was incompatible with the SA Cable end. After much searching found a guy with a bunch of NOS BSA Shifter Cables so two of these purchased. I replaced the Sturmey Archer shifter with the BSA shifter and the new cable and gear changing is working fine.

Bike is now completed except for new Brake Blocks though old ones work OK.

Test rides show the bike to ride nicely and it is very comfortable. One day the frame might get new paintwork but it is not an urgent issue, the bike is perfectly usable and a great addition to my stable.

See photos below;-


Before starting the strip down.


BSA 3 Speed Hub contents as removed for cleaning etc.


BSA 3 Speed Hub parts ready for re-assembly.


Chaincase removed from frame.


Chaincase during clean up.


Crank set and bottom bracket spindle and cups (cups had no signs of wear at all), old spindle on left, NOS replacement on right.


Re-assembly of drive and complexities of threading the chain which can be seen held by wires to keep in position.


Unique Sunbeam Centre Pull brakes stripped, cleaned and re-assembled. They work really well, very nicely engineered.


Bike re-build completed.

Cockpit view, saddle is original.
__________________
Cuius summa inventa


Last edited by PeterLYoung; 01-15-20 at 10:17 AM. Reason: add information.
PeterLYoung is offline  
Likes For PeterLYoung:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.