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1997 Cannondale R300 CAD2,what a mess...

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1997 Cannondale R300 CAD2,what a mess...

Old 01-26-20, 06:31 PM
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1997 Cannondale R300 CAD2,what a mess...



Friend of mine picked this up for me from Moab, UT... That explains the red dirt. Mismatched wheelset, right shifter not working (I went through this last year on my 98 R200, I know what should work...), left shifts just fine... Chain looks worse than it probably is. Tires are shot. Paint is scratched and far from perfect.

I'm concerned about the holes drilled in the seat stays for the rear rack. At least the dropouts had holes to mount to...

Front hub is actually RSX. Brakes are not named or branded, no quick release levers? RSX FD. And RD...

I didn't need another bike, or road bike... But it was cheap... And, well, N+1. R300 in script is cool...

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Old 01-26-20, 07:20 PM
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That is some interesting lighting on the Neon.
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Old 01-26-20, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by cb400bill View Post
That is some interesting lighting on the Neon.
100 watt 8" pencil beams. I can light reflectors 10 miles down the road. The beams are tight enough, I use them in FOG so I can be seen. I drive desert highways, and frequently with NO oncoming traffic. I am the LAST Neon you want to flash high beams at. Headlights are Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulbs. I use relays where the factory did not.

The pushbar is custom made by me. Specifically to mount the lights.
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Old 01-27-20, 09:52 AM
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thats a serious FD gap lol had one like that on a Trek 850 I recently acquired good luck with the rebuild OP I am sure the old Canny will appreciate some love.
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Old 01-27-20, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ryansu View Post
thats a serious FD gap lol had one like that on a Trek 850 I recently acquired good luck with the rebuild OP I am sure the old Canny will appreciate some love.
I'm guessing this had a rough life and a good cleaning is in order first. Not sure of my intent or needs for this bike yet, so not sure what to do after just cleaning it. This is a 60cm frame. My 98 R200 and 2006 CAAD8 are both 58cm. My old KHS roadbike is 60cm. R200 is semi permanent on my indoor trainer. CAAD8 is geared for speed 2x10 53/39 11-28). KHS is 2x10 50/34 12-30. I need to determine what I want of it. It needs a lot. So...

One area of concern moving forward, will the holes drilled in the seat stays for the rear rack be a problem?

I'm at 240 pounds now, but losing... I like having a bike with a rack, so it might stay, but with proper hardware preferred. I'm curious if 700x32 tires fit. But not having quick release brake calipers that might be impossible. But I have some Tektro calipers I could use instead.

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Old 01-27-20, 06:14 PM
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I'd deburr those holes inside and out and fill with JB Weld. As I remember, the frames are heat treated or some such wizardry, and tig weld repairs are not a good idea. But I'm just repeating what I read somewhere.
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Old 01-27-20, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by bark_eater View Post
I'd deburr those holes inside and out and fill with JB Weld. As I remember, the frames are heat treated or some such wizardry, and tig weld repairs are not a good idea. But I'm just repeating what I read somewhere.
Seems a reasonable course of action... I forgot about the heat treating...
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Old 01-27-20, 08:43 PM
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Bike is a long way from where it was sold. But then, so are most of mine...


RD and FD are A410, like those on my 98 R200. No numbers on the brake calipers. Haven't pulled back the hoods for the brifters yet.

Looks like 3 of the 4 water bottle bolts are stuck in the rivnuts. Grrr...


Ugly little holes. Grrrr. At least the threads are still good at the dropouts...

The seat clamp collar bolt is rusted. I have it soaking. The collar does not appear to be original. I was incorrect about the headset. Certainly feels dry now with the wheel and handlebars off the bike. But the crankset seems smooth. Just filthy.

Since I still have my 2002 Marin hybrid as a project, I might as well collect parts for both bikes. I'm anxious to get them both rolling. Both bikes might be better off with better wheels than I got with them.
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Old 01-28-20, 12:16 AM
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Last tidbits tonight.

According to VintageCannondale.com, serial number comes up with built in July 1996. I only see this color, Super Black with Teal Pearl for 97, so guessing this is an early production model? Intrigued with the "not as advertised" seat clamp.


Brakes are listed as Tektro 420 AG. Gearing is listed as 46/36/26 and 11-24. Just seems odd to me. Don't get me wrong, I'm looking forward to riding it.

I tried to squeeze a wheel with 700x32 into the rear. Nope. Not gonna fit. Doesn't help the tire measures at 34.5mm wide. But also, too tall. Hits the back of the downtube.

I think I need to source another set of wheels, or build a new set and wrap them in 700x28, as it seems some should fit.
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Old 01-28-20, 09:41 AM
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FWIW on any old bike but especially ones that have been ridden hard and put away wet I would rebuild all the bearings (headset, BB, and wheel hubs) as a matter of course- smooth feeling or not. Just assume the grease is old and it needs to be serviced and that bearings are worn. YMMV. The BB on my Trek 520 was smooth enough but on tear down it was a rusty mess


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Old 01-28-20, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by bark_eater View Post
I'd deburr those holes inside and out and fill with JB Weld. As I remember, the frames are heat treated or some such wizardry, and tig weld repairs are not a good idea. But I'm just repeating what I read somewhere.
Don't bother filling. Buy or make an aluminum bushing that slip-fits in the hole. Bond it in using the epoxy. Gently file flush.
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Old 01-28-20, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ryansu View Post
FWIW on any old bike but especially ones that have been ridden hard and put away wet I would rebuild all the bearings (headset, BB, and wheel hubs) as a matter of course- smooth feeling or not. Just assume the grease is old and it needs to be serviced and that bearings are worn. YMMV. The BB on my Trek 520 was smooth enough but on tear down it was a rusty mess

Not expecting rust, in an aluminum frame. Having said that, the 3 of the 4 bottle cage bolts are rusted/corroded in place. Hoping some penetrant will free them up. No rush. I will pull the crankset and bottom bracket specifically due to the dirty condition I received the bike in. I see the LP-27 BB isn't sold anymore, I don't know what replacement is available. I replaced the old loose ball square taper BB on my old 86 KHS with cartridge bearing FSA PowerDrive stuff (part of a 2x10 upgrade), and recently used external bearing SRAM GPX on my 2006 Cannondale CAAD8. On this R300, keeping the existing crankset is acceptable and cost effective. And it wouldn't hurt to have a spare for my 98 R200 for the day it gets replaced as well...

Originally Posted by Bad Lag View Post
Don't bother filling. Buy or make an aluminum bushing that slip-fits in the hole. Bond it in using the epoxy. Gently file flush.
I will see if I have any aluminum rod at work, to fill with.
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Old 01-28-20, 12:08 PM
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Any "repair" to the seatstays is only going to be cosmetic, but no worries as that piece of tubing isn't butted so will never fail at the hole.

Look for a bottom bracket spindle dimension stamped into the spindle near the seal, it likely would carry an OEM-type size/offset code such as D-NL, but in this case I think you can assume (but do verify) that the correct bottom bracket for this RSX crank is 118mm, no offset. You really don't want to increase the driveside protrusion of the frame, so better to be accurate here than to "play it safe" with a longer or more heavily-offset spindle. A UN-55 model would seem like the best choice for low money.

If this bike fits, it should make a good all-around bike for where the triple compact gearing setup would be useful. There are 11-28t and 12-28t 7s cassettes that will give lower-yet gearing, but the11-24t was a standard RSX offering and features a nice, smooth progression of gear ratios.

Two thoughts on the right shifter, sometimes it takes a long time, or heat, to get the lightly-spring-loaded pawls inside to move, after an appropriate penetrating lube has flooded the shifter's insides. Once any relatively thick lube has filled the crevices, a more-aggressive penetrant may not be able to penetrate readily into the gummed pivots of the spring-loaded pawls.
Keep in mind also that if the unresponsive lever is moved VERRRY slowly, that the spring may then be able to overcome the gummy resistance of the thickened grease, and which may then create enough movement along the freeplay of the pawl pivot to help finally force the penetrant in. So after getting the lever to engage through a perhaps 2-minute-long early stroke, to where it actually catches/engages the cable spool teeth, a second engaging lever action may then take half as long and so on. Heat is your friend here, so perhaps use a hair drier or leave the lever under your car's hood for 20+ minutes before testing the levers again very slowly. It is almost rare to have actual mechanism damage causing an unresponsive lever on such a low-mileage bike, so don't try taking it apart or forcing anything.

Those calipers will be a nuisance when it comes time to remove the wheels if wider tires are used, so don't increase tire size unless a wider rim is also used, or until you replace those cheap calipers.

An LP-26 bottom bracket this old will usually have thickened grease that resists turning, but I have found that they continue to provide solid service for some years despite this. I wouldn't really expect it to free up much on it's own. There is I believe a thin locknut under a plastic cover that covers a keyed washer and cone, so disassembly is possible. The bearing retainer must be pulled straight out after the cone is removed, to allow the balls to be displaced to one side of the spindle so that the spindle can be withdrawn, so this is far from a standard rebuild procedure and I haven't rebuilt one of these in probably 20 years. Their bearing quality is quite decent though these are heavier and rougher-feeling than the UN55 that can be had for under 30 bucks.

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Old 01-28-20, 12:32 PM
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My understanding for going to a sealed unit is the following measure your current spindle length for reference but more importantly note the crank you are going to use and check the crank manufacturers recommendations for bb. lets say you were going to use a VO triple they recommend a JIS 124 mm bb.
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Old 01-28-20, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dddd View Post
Any "repair" to the seatstays is only going to be cosmetic, but no worries as that piece of tubing isn't butted so will never fail at the hole.

Look for a bottom bracket spindle dimension stamped into the spindle near the seal, it likely would carry an OEM-type size/offset code such as D-NL, but in this case I think you can assume (but do verify) that the correct bottom bracket for this RSX crank is 118mm, no offset. You really don't want to increase the driveside protrusion of the frame, so better to be accurate here than to "play it safe" with a longer or more heavily-offset spindle. A UN-55 model would seem like the best choice for low money.

If this bike fits, it should make a good all-around bike for where the triple compact gearing setup would be useful. There are 11-28t and 12-28t 7s cassettes that will give lower-yet gearing, but the11-24t was a standard RSX offering and features a nice, smooth progression of gear ratios.

Two thoughts on the right shifter, sometimes it takes a long time, or heat, to get the lightly-spring-loaded pawls inside to move, after an appropriate penetrating lube has flooded the shifter's insides. Once any relatively thick lube has filled the crevices, a more-aggressive penetrant may not be able to penetrate readily into the gummed pivots of the spring-loaded pawls.
Keep in mind also that if the unresponsive lever is moved VERRRY slowly, that the spring may then be able to overcome the gummy resistance of the thickened grease, and which may then create enough movement along the freeplay of the pawl pivot to help finally force the penetrant in. So after getting the lever to engage through a perhaps 2-minute-long early stroke, to where it actually catches/engages the cable spool teeth, a second engaging lever action may then take half as long and so on. Heat is your friend here, so perhaps use a hair drier or leave the lever under your car's hood for 20+ minutes before testing the levers again very slowly. It is almost rare to have actual mechanism damage causing an unresponsive lever on such a low-mileage bike, so don't try taking it apart or forcing anything.

Those calipers will be a nuisance when it comes time to remove the wheels if wider tires are used, so don't increase tire size unless a wider rim is also used, or until you replace those cheap calipers.

An LP-26 bottom bracket this old will usually have thickened grease that resists turning, but I have found that they continue to provide solid service for some years despite this. I wouldn't really expect it to free up much on it's own. There is I believe a thin locknut under a plastic cover that covers a keyed washer and cone, so disassembly is possible. The bearing retainer must be pulled straight out after the cone is removed, to allow the balls to be displaced to one side of the spindle so that the spindle can be withdrawn, so this is far from a standard rebuild procedure and I haven't rebuilt one of these in probably 20 years. Their bearing quality is quite decent though these are heavier and rougher-feeling than the UN55 that can be had for under 30 bucks.
As a former much heavier indivivdual, I always worry about stress areas, bikes, chairs, furniture... I'm down 140 pounds and still look to be safe before sitting on things.

I will look the existing BB over thoroughly, for markings, and then decide if a teardown (like RJ the Bike Guy did on a similar BB) will give me what I want, vs the cost of a suitable replacement. I am surprised this one seems to turn smooth still, given the dirt on the bike and age. Then again, the same BB on my 98 R200 is still spinning fine and I've never touched it. Though, it has spun more this past year than any other time since it was new.

This bike fits. I prefer 58 and 60 cm frames.My R200 and CAAD8 are both 58, the old KHS is 60. I also picked up a Marin hybrid that is an XL frame, that might be too big. But it needs work to be able to be ridden in the first place. I'm hoping to get the R300 out as an errand bike. I will keep the rack, but fit it properly, so I can use it for errands. The gearing is suitable as I live at the top of a hill. I might swap to a 12-28 or 12-30. If I want speed, I have the CAAD8 for that pursuit.

I have other Tektro calipers on hand that I will use regardless. I will not ride 700x23s. I will see if 700x28s fit.

Originally Posted by ryansu View Post
My understanding for going to a sealed unit is the following measure your current spindle length for reference but more importantly note the crank you are going to use and check the crank manufacturers recommendations for bb. lets say you were going to use a VO triple they recommend a JIS 124 mm bb.
Staying with the RSX crankset, Planning to look at the existing BB to determine what it is, and then maybe clean it, or replace it as I wrote above...
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Old 01-29-20, 11:53 PM
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Turns out I was incorrect about the wheelset.

Hubs are BOTH RSX A410 series. Which leads me down the rabbit hole of, are RSX hubs better or equal to the RM40 hubs it was specced with? As is my 98 R200, my 98 Schwinn hybrid and my daughter's 98 Schwinn Passage roadbike... Also. Both rims are Sun ME14A. I thought they were mismatched because the rear has a Presta valve tube, the front has a Schrader... I guess I need to get some of the Schrader to Presta bushings to use Presta tubes in Schrader ready rims.

I got curious as I finished disassembly tonight. I expected this to be a 60cm frame, and thought I was mistaken when the steerer tube was marked with 63...

Center to center, BB to top tube center is 60cm. As I prepped the pictures, I realized it looks like it says 7R363. Odd coincidence. The headset stack includes nearly 1/2" of spacers. While there is grease in the bearings, they need to be cleaned or just drop in a new headset.

Got the BB out, the shell for the cartridge had a little rust on it. Water had been in the BB shell at some point.

Since this is an aluminum frame, I expect this to pretty much wipe out. I don't see Salt corrosion in the shell.

And so the BB itself.

Shell is 68mm as expected. Spindle is 118mm in width, appears symmetrical. The surface rust brushes off, mostly. While it spins ok, I can tell the old grease is not that great.

Seat post was a lot tighter in the seat tube than expected. It is 27.2mm as expected and specced. Some grease, and it should be ok. The rails on the Coda saddle have some surface rust. And the saddle itself has some split vinyl, and doesn't feel very inviting.

Next steps, determine value in cleaning and greasing the BB or replacing, seeing if the bearings in the headset are good, or replace the headset. Strip the tires off the rims, take them to be trued, and fit new tubes and 700x28 tires. Find the spare Tektro brake set I've got on hand... New cables were ordered...

Oh, color on the bike is Super Black, Teal Pearl...

Last edited by zjrog; 02-04-20 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 04-07-21, 12:26 PM
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Hello,

I just ran across this thread on my search for specs on a 1997 Cannondale r300, sorry if this is a zombie thread.

I can tell you that 28's would not fit on my R300, 25's don't fit either, 23's are the widest that can fit. Hopefully this thread will be updated by the OP as I am interested in following. I have already gotten many useful sources and info from this, so thanks!

Last edited by Rockhind; 04-07-21 at 12:35 PM.
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