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How do I remove this BB?
I hope to have my old Peugeot powder coated soon so I am gathering tools and reading how to articles so I can strip the frame and fork. I have the tool to remove the cranks and headset remover and press, but I‘m not sure about the bottom bracket. From the picture I provide, how does it come apart? I can take the otherwise stripped frame to my LBS and have them remove the BB, but I would rather do it myself. Thanks for your help!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c7fe21848.jpeg |
Take off the lockring with a hook spanner and the BB with a pin spanner.
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Is that the dreaded plastic BB? If so, you have one shot at using the correct tools, or else it will make a very unpleasant, determined mess that will defy nearly all efforts to remove it. Please don't ask how I would know this.
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Originally Posted by USAZorro
(Post 21304893)
Is that the dreaded plastic BB? If so, you have one shot at using the correct tools, or else it will make a very unpleasant, determined mess that will defy nearly all efforts to remove it. Please don't ask how I would know this.
Maybe the question is, is it French or Swiss threaded?...... So the OP will know which way to turn the spanners... It actually looks like there could be enough thread showing at the cup face to figure it out. |
It's your bike OP but the paint around that bottom bracket looks pristine. I like painting my fugly bikes. ;)
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whoa, did not expect that
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Channel locks are easier if you plan on mangling it anyways. You don't even really need the pin spanner to remove if the cup isn't seized. The pin spanner is more for holding it in proper adjustment while tightening the locknut. Loosen the locknut, and you should be able to remove it with your fingers.
Also NDS is always a standard RH thread and I'm pretty sure it's a later internally brazed Peugeot so it's BSA and the cup says 1.37 |
Thanks everyone, I understand the bb now thanks to you all. I’m going to remove it myself and maybe go back with a cartridge type bb.
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RJ may also have a video on this BB too
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Originally Posted by lhill
(Post 21305529)
Thanks everyone, I understand the bb now thanks to you all. I’m going to remove it myself and maybe go back with a cartridge type bb.
These can be challenging and a very good skill to learn even if you don't use it again on this. ;) |
Yah! Please don't just waste the bottom bracket that might still be good and serviceable, it made it this far and long. You wouldn't want to be the one to senselessly kill it? Take it to a bike shop and they might lend you the right tools to take it off, right there, without mangling it all up.
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Don't hack it up with a hammer and screwdriver. Get the right tools so you can work on it again.
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Be sure to remove the drive side crank arm first.
the bright lock ring will remove anti clockwise. Almost always holding the adjustable cup is not needed for removal but will be for installation. the fixed cup ... it is a later bike it appears could be Regular or LH thread. Old French was regular RH threading 35x1, later... Swiss LH 35x1 or English 1.370 x 24 LH. the fixed cup may be best a bike shop task if you do not have the tools. j |
It's just a lowly BSA lockring. It's not even the BB cup. It's hardly the end of the world if it gets a bit marred, or a couple notches get screwed up. It's not some irreplaceable piece of history or like it would get damaged beyond the point of usability. It's not even in a highly visible place.
Given the internal fillets and what appears to be a 1.37 marking on the cup, it's almost certainly BSA. |
I have ordered the Park Tools lock ring spanner and pin spanner so I will take it out carefully and reuse it if all goes well. Thanks again for your help!
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Originally Posted by Kuromori
(Post 21305747)
It's just a lowly BSA lockring. It's not even the BB cup. It's hardly the end of the world if it gets a bit marred, or a couple notches get screwed up. It's not some irreplaceable piece of history or like it would get damaged beyond the point of usability. It's not even in a highly visible place.
Given the internal fillets and what appears to be a 1.37 marking on the cup, it's almost certainly BSA. This can make good practice when the stakes are low to acquire the tools, learn to use them and get it right. |
I think this thread was for garryg to send a message in secret code.
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Originally Posted by garryg
(Post 21305283)
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Originally Posted by repechage
(Post 21306269)
I think this thread was for garryg to send a message in secret code.
Ben |
Originally Posted by merziac
(Post 21306250)
Maybe so, not the point, there's value in learning the drill for when it is a valuable specimen that you do want to save with the least amount of damage that doesn't cooperate.
This can make good practice when the stakes are low to acquire the tools, learn to use them and get it right. |
True that, the best tool in the world doesn't do a damn thing until you pick it up and wield it to do your bidding.
I have a 45 year old Sugino that never fails me, ever. It has a wrap around spring quality about it that when executed properly grabs the ring and makes short work of it no matter how tight, stuck or seized it is. The right tool, in the right hands......... ;) |
Whoa i really did not mean for my secret message to get posted, Also do not advocate hammering away at bb, but a little tap is often all that is needed.
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You can just about completely take apart a bike with a hammer, a few screwdrivers, and a pair of vice grips, but I wouldn't recommend it.
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This article on How To Rebuild a Vintage Bottom Bracket might prove helpful...
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ef1ffeeb93.jpg |
Originally Posted by Chombi1
(Post 21305243)
Maybe the question is, is it French or Swiss threaded?...... So the OP will know which way to turn the spanners...
No reason to remove the fixed cup if you're just going to overhaul it. |
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