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Metal cable housing on rear derailleur.

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Metal cable housing on rear derailleur.

Old 02-13-20, 03:03 PM
  #1  
robertj298
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Metal cable housing on rear derailleur.

This is on my 85 Sequoia. Is it better than the plastic ones? Can I reuse this one?
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Old 02-13-20, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by robertj298 View Post
This is on my 85 Sequoia. Is it better than the plastic ones? Can I reuse this one?
For non-indexed shifting, helical cable is acceptable because you're always controlling cable pull by feel, not by a fixed length. It is less desirable than the inline housing used for indexed shifting for indexed shifters. Inline housing may give you more shifting response for your shifters anyway, but I understand the desire to keep the old housing.
If you're replacing the cable, get a slickened cable to minimize friction in the housing. You could also flush with WD-40 and follow up with a degreaser, since WD-40 tends to hang onto dust and will trap the stuff in the housing, requiring more frequent flushing.
I haven't tried it, but your LBS might carry the 'noodle' found inside shift housing separately. After the flush and rinse, I would be curious if you could modernize the housing by lining it with the plastic tube, fixing the unnecessary friction problem that the old housing likely has.
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Old 02-13-20, 03:31 PM
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I'd also want to see if that kink at the derailleur stop can be corrected.
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Old 02-13-20, 03:41 PM
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...
...you can reuse that stainless spring wound stuff, but as stated above, it experiences a lot of compression in use.
It used to come a lot on Campagnolo New Record rear derailleurs, and to some extent accounts for why they always shifted so poorly.

A short piece of either indexed housing or even just regular brake cable housing will give you more positive shifting control.

I find the stuff pretty, but useless for my purposes.
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Old 02-13-20, 05:04 PM
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For friction shifters, 6 of 1, 1/2 dozen the others.
Metal housing can be cleaned, since it occupies a dirty place.
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Old 02-13-20, 05:16 PM
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You can see a couple of problems. One is the kink that Unca_Sam mentioned. Another is that without the plastic sheathing, it's more susceptible to water and grit intrusion. I used it long ago and thought it was cool, but it's less than ideal. "Back in the day," we used the same housing for brakes and gears, and it was all helical and plastic sheathed until this stuff came out.
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Old 02-13-20, 05:36 PM
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Quick observation of the OP cable and derailleur.

You can re-use the cable, though should be removed for cleaning and also zing off the kinked end portion. Don't forget a new cable end on assembly.

Next is to examine the derailleur for smooth actuation. That one looks pretty much rashed and may have binding at one of the pivots. Remove burr with fine grit sandpaper, folded and get between those parts. Spend time on cleaning it all before re assembly to the bike.
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Old 02-13-20, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider View Post
You can see a couple of problems. One is the kink that Unca_Sam mentioned. Another is that without the plastic sheathing, it's more susceptible to water and grit intrusion. I used it long ago and thought it was cool, but it's less than ideal. "Back in the day," we used the same housing for brakes and gears, and it was all helical and plastic sheathed until this stuff came out.
Here's one mounted with no kink, and which is original equipment from mid-80's. It is only used in this location. This one has been cleaned once by me and came to me in equally shiny condition. Probably could use it again, as this is not a current pic.
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Old 02-13-20, 06:06 PM
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They were supplied with Campy bar-end shifters too, bitd.
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Old 02-13-20, 06:08 PM
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robertj298-

The cable with nylon liner/insert is available from the UK here on EBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Spi...K3x82fhMp6R2ag
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Old 02-13-20, 07:21 PM
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The Campy stainless steel spring cable casing is pretty much all I use on all my C&V bikes, except for two bikes where I used Campy pearl white plastic covered casings that came with the 1st gen Chorus derailleur sets I installed on the bike.
They work good on my RDs as they are all non-indexed. I just make sure to periodically flush the springs with WD40, then apply some "dry" teflon type lubricant on them to keep the cable sliding ok in it.
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Old 02-13-20, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Last ride 76 View Post
They were supplied with Campy bar-end shifters too, bitd.
And SunTour barcons as well...
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Old 02-13-20, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Cougrrcj View Post
And SunTour barcons as well...
I have such a set! Imagine this stuff emerging from your bar tape to curl back around to the downtube stops, quickly eroding all paint it comes in contact with...
The rear derailleur cable is also unfortunately too short for the frame I wanted it for.
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Old 02-13-20, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildwood View Post
Here's one mounted with no kink, and which is original equipment from mid-80's. It is only used in this location. This one has been cleaned once by me and came to me in equally shiny condition. Probably could use it again, as this is not a current pic.
I like what I see. Are those De Rosa dropouts? Tell me about the barrel adjuster where the housing meets the RD. I'm not sure what the function might be other than to take up some slack in the cable if not pulled taught when set up initially. Is that barrel adjuster a user mod?
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Old 02-14-20, 12:11 AM
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I believe that the Croce D' Aunne rear derailer had indexing capability, hence the tension adjuster(?).

With stainless housing, one must not use modern stainless cable or the friction level will be very sticky versus using a galvanized cable.

I cant stand having to friction shift with less than the best cable housing, which is the modern type.

The plastic tubing turns up in bike shops in many different diameters. It is commonly shipped with frames, serving as cable entry guides for easier setup with hidden cables. I have found such tubing in sizes that fit coiled stainless housing as well as a thicker tubing that fit between Schwinn brake cable housing and modern 1.5mm brake cable. The reduction of friction is dramatic in some cases, especially where the rear section of the rear brake cable makes sharper turns.
I often fit the plastic tubing to derailer cable guides at the bottom bracket, using clever methods to retain a short section of the tubing in place. Epoxy works great here, especially with above-bb guides, holding the tubing in place for oh-so-more-responsive shifting performance.
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Old 02-14-20, 07:55 AM
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If you want sorta the same look, but better performance- try some of the braided shifter cable- I’ve used the fancy Jagwire stuff and I’ve only read good things about the Velo Orange shifter housing.

https://velo-orange.com/collections/...eur-cable-kits
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Old 02-16-20, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam View Post
I have such a set! Imagine this stuff emerging from your bar tape to curl back around to the downtube stops, quickly eroding all paint it comes in contact with...
The rear derailleur cable is also unfortunately too short for the frame I wanted it for.
I've had the same pair of SunTour barcons on my Fuji - including the original bare coiled housings - since 1976/77 and 50,000+ miles. No, the paint isn't worn off my headtube.

At one time, when I was worried about the bare housing wearing the paint off, I had put a small rubber o-ring over housing where it would contact the headtube. A year or so later that o-ring cracked and fell off. I never replaced it!

I suppose one could put clear tape on the sides of the headtube - much like a chainstay protector, but again, I've never found the need...
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