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Help me build a 1990 De Rosa Pro

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Help me build a 1990 De Rosa Pro

Old 06-26-20, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by SJX426
Not sure I understand! My limitation I am sure!
The only way I can see this working is to remove the bellows from the cap insert the housing in the cap and let the pig tail stick through the braze on and the bellows on top of the pig tail. The only reason this doesn't work is the braze on does not have a step in the bore. The cap won't even fit in the opening as it is too big in diameter. The only way this is going to work, and it is my plan, is to use the step down ferrule found without the cap and pig tail. Another option is to pull the pig tial out of the cap and see if it will fit in the step down and out the front of the braze on. Then the bellows would have something to fit on and stay in place. Stay tuned!!!
The bellows are not intended for use on a vintage frame
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Old 06-26-20, 08:56 PM
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squirtdad Thanks for that pic. I still have to adjust the chain length. The posiiton of the RD might improve the joint stress.
Choke Thanks for pointing that out. I will do the research. It actually caused me to pause. Trading the pads is a really good idea!
jiangshi I don't know why it wouldn;t work. I would agree that they never existed BITD. I was around then!

The cable housings are routed on the handlebars and held in place with tape. Took some effort. The cables are also attached to the Ergo's. I ordered a cable cutter, the Felco C7. I been using a Dremel for decades. Thought I would try something different with some quality. They should be here on Sunday.
I bought a proper dual FD Record with a band clamp. It has the same attachment to the lever arms as the triple so I can simply swap the mounts. Should be here on Saturday. Might have all the cabling done by Monday or not. Busy weekend ahead.
Next steps are cable housing cuts, cable cuts, front and rear brake cabling with adjustments, FD adjustment, chain length adjustment, RD cabling and adjustments and air in the tires in prep for maiden ride.
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Old 06-28-20, 05:16 AM
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Another baby step. FD arrived. Not bad condition. The silk screen is a bit faded, or should I say has sun induced Patina. The cage is a bit warn but not too bad. The mounts were removed, cleaned, lubed, swapped and assembled. A new part in the parts bin is a nearly new appearing triple Record FD with a 35mm clamp. Most importantly is the double Record FD on the bike.
P1030470, on Flickr.

One interesting feature of the double is the "spacer" feature on the cage. Other than the length of the arms and the cage itself, they are identical.
P1030473 on Flickr
P1030476 on Flickr

So it is ready for adjustment after cable mount.
P1030472 , on Flickr

Cable cutters due today. Might even get some of the housings cut and cables mounted!

Like an cheap guy, I ordered a Campagnolo braze on mounting bolt/washer. The triple did not come with one. Can't believe I paid this much just because it is the right one for the FD! Can't leave one in the bin short. One of my pet peeves is selling items without all the parts!
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Old 06-28-20, 05:37 AM
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I am thinking of going modern with the bottle cages. If I do, this is one I am considering, given the color scheme.

De Rosa version


If not the above, then sticking with the more classic approach by getting one more of these:
P1030396, on Flickr

Another option is to duplicate what squirtdad used on his build of this frame set, post #15 above.

A pair of nice water bottles would be good too. This is what is being considered:


Or I could try to find two of these:
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Old 06-28-20, 05:50 AM
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Bottle cages, I prefer classic chrome, to match the components.
Bottles, those De Rosa ones are sweet. (I normally go with inexpensive and white.)
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Old 06-28-20, 06:07 AM
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I usually go with the "local bike shop logo" option, hah. I have a cheapo modern bottle cage that I slapped on because my Pro didn't come with one and I do want to find a more appropriate looking one, though.
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Old 06-30-20, 12:25 PM
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Cables are now cut and installed. Tell me what you think of length
Rear: Too long?
P1030487, on Flickr
P1030490, on Flickr

Rear Brake: Too Long? Remember, there needs to be slack for turning and what happens here is that the extra gets pushed back to the Seat post. I may be able to reduce it by as much as an inch.
P1030488, on Flickr

Chain was reduced in length. I used the Campagnolo approach. Turned out great!

Fine tuning to be done on drive train, works hanging. Hood install then trial run for Ergo placement +.

I am liking the new Campagnolo skewers: There are two different ones between the front and back. I am leaning to black:
P1030443 , on Flickr
P1030444, on Flickr

Nearly ready to go!
P1030491, on Flickr
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Old 06-30-20, 12:59 PM
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Rear derailleur cable housing looks perfect.
Rear brake cable looks a little too long.
I like the beefier black quick releases, w/the modern hub.

I've gotten in the practice of aligning the bottom of the brake lever with the horizontal from bottom of the drops of the bars; and if you wanted the levers more toward you, then rotate the bars back as required.
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Old 06-30-20, 01:19 PM
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ridelikeaturtle I do too but in this case I have a mixture of modern Eros with C&V bars. The desirable coplanar look between the bar and lever isn't possible. This is a compromise. It is also expected that an adjustment will be needed. I am comparing the cabling with my Pinarello, since both are the same size.

I really like the bars in post #23 from gaucho777 . I may have to make a change.

So I looked on the bay for the QR like the one in back. They were listed for more than Amazon!
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Old 07-01-20, 11:09 AM
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Ordered a set of QR in black Like the fact that Campagnolo still sells internal cam skewers. They are a nice hybrid design that are internal cam with external cam like levers.

I wanted to share my experience with cable installation. I did order and received the Felco C-7 cable cutters. Used them for installation.
I did a test on the end of a very long brake housing. The spiral collapsed preventing the cable to come out. I tried to insert a trimmed piece of cable and the result was much the same. Not an advantage over using a Dremel cut off disk. I followed up with a Dremel grinding disk to flatten out end.
The shift housing and cable were a different result and recommended. Inserting the cable is really an advantage. Still needed to insert a small diameter object to clear the insert. I made sure there was no resistance in the cable sliding through the new opening.

the result was a very crisp action. Looking forward to trying it out.

WRT the brake pads. I did some searching but came up short. trying to contact Zipp was futile. They are a sub set of SRAM. These pads do not appear to be currently available. Nothing in black and all carbon pads are bright or multicolored. I am going to use them as is until I get other information. Not sure the pad holders are original either. Changing the pad may be problematic if it isn't.
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Old 07-01-20, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by SJX426

Nearly ready to go!
P1030491, on Flickr
Originally Posted by ridelikeaturtle

I've gotten in the practice of aligning the bottom of the brake lever with the horizontal from bottom of the drops of the bars; and if you wanted the levers more toward you, then rotate the bars back as required.
This is a cool build! I've been lurking on the thread, and wanted to chime to re-up the comment about brake lever leveling. Getting the ramp/drop configured comfortably can be a little work, but I would definitely start with the tips of the levers even with the bottom of the bar, like in this post: Bar and brake lever position?.

It's cool that you're posting along the way during your build. Nice work.
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Old 07-01-20, 12:02 PM
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billytwosheds Thanks for you comment! Greatly appreciate pointing out the brake lever leveling. I like to think I am open minded to suggestions. I thought I was cataloguing for myself!

WRT the lever placement, I am considering going back to this HB for the reasons you state.
P1030033 , on Flickr

Because of the larger radius of the current bars, I had to select a compromise location. They are somewhat flat, as seen in this lousy picture. I did slide them up and down and decided to position them at least parallel to the top bar. The other consideration is the angle of the flats. I rotate the bar to ensure the top is nearly flat without causing the flats to be too steep. I know, just use a different bar. I was just trying to be more C&V. I have about 4 Giro d'Itialia bars in the stash. All are 26.4 along with the stems. Much smaller selection of stems at the right length. I may have to finally resolve this situation with acquisition and sales!
P1030403, on Flickr

Not a great picture for the intended subject, but this is the Pinarello with 1st gen Ergo. It is quite comfortable but you can see that the lever body is inclined upwards from the HB. It works but I would like better.
CConversion95, on Flickr
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Old 07-01-20, 06:55 PM
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On that note of leveling the brake levers, here is a pic the way they are set up now.
P1030513, on Flickr

Having the body of Chorus and mounting it on a duplicate HB with the eye toward leveling, it turned out in the same location.
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Old 07-01-20, 07:48 PM
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I always adjust the brake or shift levers to be optimal where I ride the most, i.e. on the hoods or in the drops. If I know I'll use both, then I work the difference, but always bias towards the hoods where I ride 99% of the time. The lever body being angled upwards works naturally with hands' position when reaching/resting on the bars. Unless people ride exclusively in the drops, then having brake/shift levers face very downward looks bad and is impossible to ride on the hoods. Where you presently have your Ergo levers is what I call "beyond the curve", meaning they are beyond the start and some of the bend, which will mean you'll feel the "bump" of the bars before your hand settles onto the lever body (coming to a stop against the 'notch' or 'kick up'--the round knob-like portion). I find that to be very uncomfortable as well as unattractive (this is my opinion, but with basis in reality). The Pinarello looks good and the hood position/angle looks natural.

I'm digging up an old photo of a Raleigh 531 (that is the correct name, per the 1982 catalog) that I shouldn't have sold along with a groupset that I shouldn't have sold (10s "full feature" Veloce). The bike is running Nitto Noodles with the Ergo levers level or ever so slightly angled up as I ride on the hoods. Comfortable, looks good (to me), without adhering to the not-always-advisable (again, IMO) flats-of-the-drops-to-bottom-of-lever rule. Ultimately your preference, sensitivity to position, and comfort will aid in you making the final decision.

A modern compact profile bar like a Soma Highway one or similar (Uno, some non-branded, thought there was a Nitto one in there as well) gets one the best of all worlds in that the bend radius is small, which aids in lever positioning while still looking natural and allowing access to the levers in the drops. Many of us have done that as well.



Dang I want this thing back!
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Old 07-02-20, 05:43 AM
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RiddleOfSteel Great Info\! I don't plan on wrapping the bars until I do a check on lever position. The hoods are now in place. Well I was wondering about he ramp up comfort. Moving the levers up the curve will not be a problem. May need to trim cable housings again.
I am considering the Cinelli VIA bar I have. The issue is all the stems in 26.4.

I couldn't wait to try moving them up. You are quite correct. It does feel better further up the curve. I also rotated the bars down a bit like the Pinny. Then moved them up again. Going to post this then do the other side.

I wanted to capture all the other threads I started as a result of this project so I can easily get back to the info in them.
First is the BB issue: Campagnolo Crankset model vs spindle length (Square Taper Only)
Campagnolo square taper 70 ss consistancy?
Then the FD: Clamp to braze on - Campy 10V FD
School me on Campagnolo 10V FD
lBrake pad identification: Zipp Speed Weaponry Black on Campy Record
This is not mine but was helpful for chain length adjustment: Chain length choices...
Cable kit: Campagnolo Cable kit on 1990 De Rosa
Ergo build left side: Campagnolo 2G Ero Rebuild left side
What is Campagnolo OS?
Campagnolo 11 Ergo with 10V RD
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Old 07-02-20, 07:18 AM
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RiddleOfSteel New placement of Ergos and rotatio of HB
P1030516 , on Flickr
P1030515, on Flickr

Every time I leave, turn out the lights and look back, the decals appear to be slightly glowing
P1030517 on Flickr

To some it may just look like a dark picture! HA!
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Old 07-02-20, 12:50 PM
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Brake and cable adjustment done. Short ride to test completed. HB tape next.
P1030521, on Flickr
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Old 07-02-20, 02:18 PM
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Improve your cabling out of the Ergo's.



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Old 07-02-20, 07:50 PM
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jiangshi Thanks! Did all that. My not look like it but the pictures from Campy don't represent the resistance level. They don't address where on the HB the housing should exit the HB tape. I did what I thought will work. It does so far. The last step will tell for sure. But right now everything works better than any of my other bikes with extreme ease.
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Old 07-04-20, 09:25 AM
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After having a discussion with Drillium Dude, where he encouraged me to include this info, I am going to present some information that may not be of much interest but I want to record it.
It is about the Cinelli 1R Stem on this build. I don't recal the details of how I acquired it but I do know that DD's bikes typically have them. I was unaware of them until he pointed them out several months ago.

like the concept of minimal clamping mechanic showing on a stem. The 1R does this better than most I have seen. This is one of the reasons I like the XA. The 100 to 120 versions are very sleek as an example is the Pinarello.
P1020200, on Flickr

yes it has the goofy plastic part but at least you can color coordinate it. They appear to be popular based on the prices on the bay.

The !R appears to be no less appealing. Upon delivery, it was taken apart, of course. I have been taking things apart since a very young age. I believe my dads Rolex is still in pieces somewhere in storage. Oh, for those that don't know this is the 1R on this build.
P1020200 , on Flickr

the design is much like you might expect. The bolt attaches to a part that has a ramp that pushes on a mating ramp of the clamping part. As you tighten it, the clamp pushes against the HB. In this next picture, you can see the gap at the back between the HB and the Stem indicating clamping pressure.
P1030529 , on Flickr
The clamp is serrated to prevent rotation. It is a cast AL part. This is the failure part.

What kind of failure?
Cinelli1RClamp, on Flickr
These parts were glued together but failed. I cleaned up the parts, dressed the serrations with a jewelers file and reassembled without the broken pieces. I assumed it would work as the part may have less surface area but would still be able to clamp effectively. So far, so good. Knowing its state and using it is a bit disconcerting. You may note the part in the upper right of the photo that is a threaded part that mates with the clamp.

DD had a really good suggestion. 3D print the part in metal. I don't know anyone who can do it and I don't have a whole, undamaged part to use as a model, not to mention my 3D solid modeling license expired 9 years ago.

Another suggestion was to find a really ratty stem for the parts. I found a candidate that was under $30 but the clamp has cracks on the back side.

A third option would be to make one out of steel. The most challenging part to be fabricated would be the ramp feature on the back side.

Well the next step is to wrap the bar.
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Old 07-04-20, 12:12 PM
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The Cinelli 1R fixing wedge is almost unobtanium. There is a stem on eBay that appears to have an intact wedge, ending tomorrow, or a wedge alone for way too much $$ from PB Bikes. What length stem do you ride? I wouldn't use a 1R with a broken wedge, I am speaking from experience.
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Old 07-04-20, 12:35 PM
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@jiangshi Yes, I about to purchase one that looks right,105. I think 100 is close to the length I like.

Finished wrapping the bars. Just have a couple of more parts coming, Bottle cages and QR's. For now this is how it looks.

P1030540 on Flickr

Stuck it on the scale:
P1030537, on Flickr

About what I expected:
P1030536, on Flickr

Not bad for a 60.

I found the Fizik tape refreshing in many ways. The tape is not super sticky so you can pull and apply multiple times. Biggest challenge, other than wrapping evenly, is going around the lever bodies. Good enough for now.

P1030531, on Flickr

May shorten up the shift cables a bit more to avoid the cross over. Trying to keep the radius out of the tape from being too small.

Shifts incredibly well. better than anything else in the stable. I guess I will have to do something about the Pinarello to get it to this level. First would be to check out the Ergos
Brakes are unsurpassed in stopping power. Very little touch needed. may need to put the Chorus double pivots on the Pinarello! Going to try the new Koolstops first.

Going to park it in the study while I wait for the parts and take it out when it is cool in the morning. Very satisfying experience. Despite the "Patina" resulting form being a riding bike for the last 20 or so years. I think it is stunning, IMHO. Thanks squirtdad , all the responders in this threadl, and the contributors in parts!
P1030546, on Flickr
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Old 07-04-20, 12:43 PM
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Don't shorten the shift cables. I usually have mine a bit longer than that, with a bigger loop up front.

I would be very careful riding with that cracked wedge.
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Old 07-05-20, 07:40 AM
  #74  
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jiangshi I will be careful. I broke down and purchased a replacement that looked like it had a good clamping part. Current is 100 but the replacement is 105. The Pin actually has a 120 XA which I have gotten use too. This should be an interesting comparison.

Today I decided to check out the cassette. Why so late? Well it came on the $130 wheel set. I didn't look this gift horse in the mouth until now.
It is a 11-25. Chainrings are the expected 53/39.
The cassette was removed and cleaned. It looked pretty good until then. It was full of dirty oil. Glad I cleaned it up. As many of you probably already know, the last two sprockets are attached to a mount maid of Ti. There is a bit of rust on the largest sprocket so I don't think this is a Record cassette.
At least it is cleaned up both the cassette and hub. Oh and the spokes that are not accessible behind the cassette.
P1030553, on Flickr
P1030556, on Flickr

Of course the QR had to be removed. It too was cleaned and examined. Crazy discovery, three springs on the rod! One was "screwed" into the QR mechanism. QR end is not a round surface. It has a opening cut out for assembling the cam and rod. There are two opposite flat areas the spring "sits" on. A third of the spring was "screwed" under the flat areas. I assume this was a result of rotating the lever to adjust the QR. The spring didn't rotate with QR surface. When it was removed, it looked like it was missing. An additional spring was put in its place but really stacked on top of it.
Should have taken a pic but I did after removing the spring.
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P1030549, on Flickr
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Old 07-05-20, 07:56 AM
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The Koolstop pad replacements (for vintage SR) work fine on my Pro, except every so often it just emits the worst possible screech. It seemed to do it a bit more when new, but something about how those stop against alloy rims make it want to scream sometime.


I've got an old 1R (with the "plain" text Cinelli logo) and I'm constantly worried about the internal clamp breaking. It also seems to click a bit, which is probably just a sign that I need to seriously clean the bit where the stem clamps onto the bar.
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