Bikes you painted yourself
#151
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Hand Brush Painted with Bumper Sticker Decals. I'll be hand brush painting from now on. Best mix is Rustolium Oil Base Enamel and a bit of Penitrol at about a 10% mix. Then wait, Wait, WAIT... for it to dry...

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#153
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I regret re painting this frame but it had to be done IMO . Didn't change any thing , just re painted . This frame was a dumpster rescue , kind of . "Want it ? If no it's going to the dump" . Any how it had been painted by Brian Baylis .
Nishiki Altron 80's
DSCF2462 by mark westi, on Flickr
IMG_0001 by mark westi, on Flickr
Nishiki Altron 80's


Last edited by markwesti; 01-26-22 at 10:20 AM.
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#154
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I did this Eisentraut over the summer, but I dont think Ill tackle another Im just not terribly happy with the results relative to the amount of work, so Ill leave it to the pros next time. It came to me as a rust bucket and my main motivation was saving the frame from oblivion. Using that benchmark, I think its actually not so bad.
Before example, rust spiders:

After the Rustoleum spa treatment and awaiting assembly:



Before example, rust spiders:

After the Rustoleum spa treatment and awaiting assembly:




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#158
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https://www.bikeforums.net/21332284-post47.html
Thank you AlePepper.
That is a 1990 Trek 7000 mtb.
It's an aluminum frame with glued internal lugs.
I was thinking of having it powdercoated but was told one should not subject glued frames to heat.
I chemical stripped the frame to bare finish and then brushed on a coppery orange krinkle like paint that flattens to a fairly smooth finish.
I really liked how the bike looked but the paint would scratch fairly easily but I could also touch it up pretty easily.
I had it set up with a SRAM 1 X 10 drivetrain.
All in all a pretty fun bike that would take pretty fat tires. For a while I ran 26 x 2.35 tires on it that gave a very cushy ride.
It has moved on to a new owner less the 1 x 10 drivetrain I'm holding for a future project bike.
I think I installed a 3 x 7 drivetrain b4 selling.
The main reason I let it go is I came across two 1990 Trek 950 mtbs and I do prefer steel frames over aluminum.
Thank you AlePepper.
That is a 1990 Trek 7000 mtb.
It's an aluminum frame with glued internal lugs.
I was thinking of having it powdercoated but was told one should not subject glued frames to heat.
I chemical stripped the frame to bare finish and then brushed on a coppery orange krinkle like paint that flattens to a fairly smooth finish.
I really liked how the bike looked but the paint would scratch fairly easily but I could also touch it up pretty easily.
I had it set up with a SRAM 1 X 10 drivetrain.
All in all a pretty fun bike that would take pretty fat tires. For a while I ran 26 x 2.35 tires on it that gave a very cushy ride.
It has moved on to a new owner less the 1 x 10 drivetrain I'm holding for a future project bike.
I think I installed a 3 x 7 drivetrain b4 selling.
The main reason I let it go is I came across two 1990 Trek 950 mtbs and I do prefer steel frames over aluminum.

Last edited by cooperryder; 02-03-22 at 09:25 AM.
#159
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Schwinn Continental in Campus Green

#160
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Thats nice.....paint booth or just outside?......no dust or overspray!
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Voice recognition may sometimes create odd spelling and grammatical errors
#161
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What does the Penitrol do? More durable or laying flatter with no runs, or...
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
#162
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Painting a frame with a brush in Central Texas with temps in the upper 90s F was damn near impossible. I was leaving brush marks and streaks all over. I also had clumping if I went over an area just five minutes covered. By adding a little Penitrol to my mix I was able to decrease the setup time thereby allowing me to work areas of the frame with the bush closely and not rushed. The Penitrol did not noticeably effect the gloss shine or strength of the paint. It is not a thinner per say. Also take note that it does not take much paint to cover a previously primed frame. I get good coverage with no more than 8 oz of paint or less. My bikes are not Wall Hangers. They require a tough thick paint job that is durable and just happens to be nice too.
Also note that I use Oil Base Rustolium Gloss Enamel over Rustolium Eching Primer. Other brands of paint may not need the Penitrol.
Also note that I use Oil Base Rustolium Gloss Enamel over Rustolium Eching Primer. Other brands of paint may not need the Penitrol.
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#163
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Even in SoCal in December, brushing on Rustoleum requires some planning and coordination. I think my Peugeot is up there somewhere. I etched with Muriatic acid then primer then color. I'll have to check out some penitrol for the next one.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
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#165
Junior Member

An 85 Gitane Professional with new clothes.
#166
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First try at painting, on a Schwinn World Sport, my test/learning frame I pulled from the bottom of a garage pile. Rattle can, dark blue fade to GM Quasar blue on top.

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#167
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id consider it a resounding success!
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#168
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I just finished painting and building up my Bianchi. This was my first experience with 2K glamour clear coat. I'll definitely use it again.
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#170
Strong Walker
My hat is off to you, Sir! I never managed any other look than "dipped in a coloured tar pit" using rattle can. That blue is nice too, very nice indeed!
#171
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#172
elcraft
This subject thread for the most part I assume are pictures of hobby and/or amateur painters making old frames/bikes look good again. I've been a professional builder and painter for over 40 years. I've painted hundreds and hundreds of frames. I hang out here so I suppose I kinda qualify. I was fortunate that when I went to learn in England at Ellis Briggs they had a paint shop on the 2nd floor along with their frame shop where I was able to learn the principles of painting details. The pictures I'm posting here are mostly of students that have taken my frame building class and hung around to help me paint them too. I've also taught painting classes to mostly professional builders. I've posted some of these pictures before on various forums.

This gal also designed and cut out her lugs out of blanks. She is a botanist and trillium flowers inspired her design.




This guy is from Michigan and he also designed and cut out his lugs. You an see the MI influence in the name and seat tube badge. He also cut the badge out of stainless steel.

This is the bike I made for my daughter using 650C wheels

This gal also designed and cut out her lugs out of blanks. She is a botanist and trillium flowers inspired her design.




This guy is from Michigan and he also designed and cut out his lugs. You an see the MI influence in the name and seat tube badge. He also cut the badge out of stainless steel.

This is the bike I made for my daughter using 650C wheels
#173
PeopleCode delaminator
I've painted lots of bikes and like many of you have figured out that the results as a hobbyist are really not worth the time and effort expended.
Also, the great majority of the bikes I've painted are BMX bikes, so smaller in scope and complexity.
The first victim is a Diamondback Joker I did over for the clunker challenge. It was a curbside trash heap pickup and looks a lot better in the picture than it did in person.:

It still looks better in the picture than in real life

This is a mid-80's Huffy that ended up being my best paint job:

frame primed

forks primed

frame after color / clear

forks after color / clear - yes, these are replacement forks, the originals took a front hub with a smaller axle diameter and a narrower locknut to locknut width than any wheel I had.

chain guard after color / clear

Complete:

Last is a GT Bump my son and I did over together:
Also, the great majority of the bikes I've painted are BMX bikes, so smaller in scope and complexity.
The first victim is a Diamondback Joker I did over for the clunker challenge. It was a curbside trash heap pickup and looks a lot better in the picture than it did in person.:

It still looks better in the picture than in real life

This is a mid-80's Huffy that ended up being my best paint job:

frame primed

forks primed

frame after color / clear

forks after color / clear - yes, these are replacement forks, the originals took a front hub with a smaller axle diameter and a narrower locknut to locknut width than any wheel I had.

chain guard after color / clear

Complete:

Last is a GT Bump my son and I did over together:

#174
Strong Walker
This frame was rough and raw alloy, a bit plain looking and hard to keep clean. So I wet sanded all the main tubes for a light brushed look sprayed metallic grey on the lugs then clear coated the lot.
The wet sanding was time consuming to get it looking consistent.



The wet sanding was time consuming to get it looking consistent.




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#175
Newbie
I've restored many early racers over the years and try to keep them as they were the time they were born. I try to use single stage mostly as the early bikes were done this way. There are times one must
use a clear coat but I try to stay away from that unless that's the way it was done originally.
There are times I have to try and preserve a head badge or paint/preserve wood rims. I always color sand the paints smooth after letting it dry and then I hand polish to a luster. I also do lug lining etc.
Here are just a few I've restored and I'm in the process of restoring dozens more right now. I usually use a SATA jam gun for my paint job and always have the paints custom mixed to original colors.
1873 English Penny Farthing > ( Although these were usually hand brushed and baked I opted for a single stage )

1895 Columbia Model #44 Factory Racer with Blue rims. Columbia called these "The Blue Rimmed Racers".

1898 Barnes "White Flyer" - I do all the pin striping etc if need be.


1917 Colson "Flyer" Racer


1930's Bianchi

1930's Diamant STAYER


use a clear coat but I try to stay away from that unless that's the way it was done originally.
There are times I have to try and preserve a head badge or paint/preserve wood rims. I always color sand the paints smooth after letting it dry and then I hand polish to a luster. I also do lug lining etc.
Here are just a few I've restored and I'm in the process of restoring dozens more right now. I usually use a SATA jam gun for my paint job and always have the paints custom mixed to original colors.
1873 English Penny Farthing > ( Although these were usually hand brushed and baked I opted for a single stage )

1895 Columbia Model #44 Factory Racer with Blue rims. Columbia called these "The Blue Rimmed Racers".

1898 Barnes "White Flyer" - I do all the pin striping etc if need be.


1917 Colson "Flyer" Racer


1930's Bianchi

1930's Diamant STAYER


