Trouble adjusting headset

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04-20-20 | 07:20 AM
  #26  
Quote: This is at least part of the problem, stick an extra in there for practice and see. You will ultimately probably also need to reclock the lower cup and upper race in the headtube..
^This, even if it isn't a contributor to your present, closest problem, which is adjustment. It's a good practice once you have the indentations visible. PG
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04-20-20 | 07:51 AM
  #27  
Quote: If they are the same size, you cannot do 1 for 1, they are fighting the indents and each other, too much and not enough wiggle room all at the same time.

This is at least part of the problem, stick an extra in there for practice and see. You will ultimately probably also need to reclock the lower cup and upper race in the headtube.

The method is to put as many in that will fit and remove one, so if 2 more fit in then only one extra may do the trick.
I added an extra ball and while it's still not as loose as my other bikes it is much improved. Thanks
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04-20-20 | 12:49 PM
  #28  
++ to the add at least one more ball when converting from caged to loose. I have done the same to at least two of my bikes to get additional life from a headset with dimpled races. This has worked very well for me. Dean
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04-20-20 | 01:25 PM
  #29  
I'm just now reinstalling the fork on an early 2000-something Specialized HardRock frame. It had 22 5/32" bearings in retainers, and I filled with 27 loose balls, leaving room for 2 more, or more than 1-1/2 anyway. Fairly nice locking washer system: a keyed washer that fits into a recess in the topmost race, and then on top of that a keyed washer/brake cable hanger. Fairly easy to adjust the uppermost race by hand, and then tighten stuff down without it wandering much.
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