How to remove vintage Schwinn cranks?
05-04-20, 05:11 PM
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How to remove vintage Schwinn cranks?
I can't figure out the next step to remove a set of ~1950 Schwinn 3-piece cranks. There's a center cap that I assume comes out somehow and then crank pullers of some sort. But how to get the cap off?
05-04-20, 05:31 PM
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Pic assist:
That appears to be a standard cottered crank, with the cotter pin removed. From what I can tell, that's not an end cap, that's the end of the spindle itself. I'll bet it's just rust holding that arm on. Have you tried laying the bike on its side and drizzling Fluid Film, PB Blaster or some other rust penetrant in there, and letting it sit a while?
That appears to be a standard cottered crank, with the cotter pin removed. From what I can tell, that's not an end cap, that's the end of the spindle itself. I'll bet it's just rust holding that arm on. Have you tried laying the bike on its side and drizzling Fluid Film, PB Blaster or some other rust penetrant in there, and letting it sit a while?
05-04-20, 07:08 PM
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Kroil also helps.
How about a gear puller of some sort?
Taps with a hammer, using a block of wood to cushion the blows, may crack it loose.
How about a gear puller of some sort?
Taps with a hammer, using a block of wood to cushion the blows, may crack it loose.
05-04-20, 07:17 PM
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Yeah, some sort of penetrating fluid, wait 24 hours and then grab one crank arm with one hand and the other side with your other hand and push/pull in opposite directions. If that doesn’t work, put one arm in a vise, and try to move the other with both hands.
05-04-20, 07:18 PM
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Penetrating fluid of choice. Stand on other pedal with the axle bit of the stuck crank supported on wood. Belt end of crank with big block of wood. Reverse direction. Work back and forth until free.
05-04-20, 07:38 PM
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...if you have a small propane or MAPP gas torch (the kind used for soldering plumbing pipe), you can heat and cool the join area a couple of times, and apply the oil in between cycles. It will come right off once the corrosive bond breaks. YOui don't need a puller, and in fact that might slightly bend your chainwheel if applied incorrectly.
...if you have a small propane or MAPP gas torch (the kind used for soldering plumbing pipe), you can heat and cool the join area a couple of times, and apply the oil in between cycles. It will come right off once the corrosive bond breaks. YOui don't need a puller, and in fact that might slightly bend your chainwheel if applied incorrectly.
05-04-20, 08:25 PM
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Once you get the crank arm(s) removed, we'd like to see pictures. It looks like a tandem.
+1 on penetrating oil. There are lots of different brands and DIY solutions. Some are better than others. Start with what you got and give it time to soak in.
I like using a hammer when I can because it can deliver a lot of impact for a short mount of time. You have a center spot on the spindle that you can place a centerpunch on and wack. You might be able to get some pieces of wood through to the chainring of the crank that you are trying to move so that when you hit down on the spindle the crank/chainring/wood pieces will hold this assembly. That chainring looks pretty beefy, but you don;t want to hit the spindle too hard and you don't want to miss.
If you have a gear puller, this could also work without applying too much force. Someone, I don't remember who, on Bike Forum says that they apply moderate force instead of keep tightening the bolt, they let it sit for a few days. Add penetrating oil and only increase force gradually. This gentle approach could be good when you are not in a rush.
One more thought, if you have an impact hammer or know someone that does, this would work pretty well. I think some of you might think this is too harsh, but I don't think it is. All the pieces are steel. Just don't let let the tool go off center because you will have a series of dots on your spindle and crank.
+1 on penetrating oil. There are lots of different brands and DIY solutions. Some are better than others. Start with what you got and give it time to soak in.
I like using a hammer when I can because it can deliver a lot of impact for a short mount of time. You have a center spot on the spindle that you can place a centerpunch on and wack. You might be able to get some pieces of wood through to the chainring of the crank that you are trying to move so that when you hit down on the spindle the crank/chainring/wood pieces will hold this assembly. That chainring looks pretty beefy, but you don;t want to hit the spindle too hard and you don't want to miss.
If you have a gear puller, this could also work without applying too much force. Someone, I don't remember who, on Bike Forum says that they apply moderate force instead of keep tightening the bolt, they let it sit for a few days. Add penetrating oil and only increase force gradually. This gentle approach could be good when you are not in a rush.
One more thought, if you have an impact hammer or know someone that does, this would work pretty well. I think some of you might think this is too harsh, but I don't think it is. All the pieces are steel. Just don't let let the tool go off center because you will have a series of dots on your spindle and crank.
05-05-20, 01:01 AM
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You already have the cotter out and that is often the hard part so you are already over halfway there.
Once this is loose it will just turn on the shaft and come off once it is loose enough. If you mushroom the shaft, the arm will be harder to get off.
05-05-20, 09:43 AM
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From what I can tell, that's not an end cap, that's the end of the spindle itself. I'll bet it's just rust holding that arm on. Have you tried laying the bike on its side and drizzling Fluid Film, PB Blaster or some other rust penetrant in there, and letting it sit a while?
05-08-20, 02:16 PM
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It is a tandem, I love weird bikes
After sitting for a few days, 3 of the 4 came right off. I put more oil on the 4th and will give it some time.
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05-08-20, 10:22 PM
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Alright, almost there. Get a few more posts and you you can show us your bike without the cranks. Or even with the one stubborn crank still on.
09-10-20, 01:47 PM
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Finally got this one as finished as I'm going. Still can't post photos here, but I've got'em on Insta here https ://www. instagram.com /p/CE9xZckF7tC/
