1st Post - 80s Ross Bear Mt
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1st Post - 80s Ross Bear Mt
So i was about to try to find my daughter a bike to ride around on and my sister tells me she has one that may work. Turns out it's an 80s Ross Bear Mt. I thought it was trash when she sent me the pics but then now that I've looked it up, maybe not. Really just want to get it generally clean and operationally sound but I'm not a bike mechanic other than the occasional tire and tube change. We mounted the rear wheel and it rides and shifts ok but I know it needs a full clean, lube and adjustments. Will probably change it over to more comfortable tires...pics to come shortly
#2
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So i was about to try to find my daughter a bike to ride around on and my sister tells me she has one that may work. Turns out it's an 80s Ross Bear Mt. I thought it was trash when she sent me the pics but then now that I've looked it up, maybe not. Really just want to get it generally clean and operationally sound but I'm not a bike mechanic other than the occasional tire and tube change. We mounted the rear wheel and it rides and shifts ok but I know it needs a full clean, lube and adjustments. Will probably change it over to more comfortable tires...pics to come shortly
Most of the stuff to do will likely involve minor things that are actually relaxing to learn...cabling (not bar tape, that can be non-therapeutic), changing and adjusting stuff.
A friend of mine long ago had a Mt Hood, which had roller cam brake-set up. Very cool.
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1988 Faggin Matrix with not Matrix tubes, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1982 Rossin Record, 1987 Trek Elance
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1980s Vanni Losa Cassani thingy, 1988 Faggin Matrix with not Matrix tubes, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1982 Rossin Record, 1987 Trek Elance
#3
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Ross made some good mountain bikes back in the 80's. We should be able to get you through the getting the bike cleaned up and riding. Then on to working like new.
80's Mountain bikes get a lot love here at Bike Forums because they are versatile. They can be trail bikes, grocery bike, comfort bikes, commuters, or great all arounders. All while looking good and being sturdy.
The first step for me is a good cleaning. After using a wash cloth with a bucket of soapy water, I will dry the frame and bike and use polishing compound to bring back the shine. If it looks good at this point though you may only need car wax. Cleaning the wheels in the least fun, but the most rewarding after the wheels are nice and clean, the bike looks much better. Try to snake the wash cloth into the center of the wheel so that you can clean the hub.
I use smooth tread tires on my Mountain bikes since they are mostly ridden on pavement. To get things moving better in the beginning I use a lubricate spray in the cables. WD-40 will get in there, however, in my opinion, it doesn't last. Use what you have while we are in lock down.
Don't forget to take some before and after pictures and post them here. You'll need 10 posts to show your pictures. However, I believe that you can place pictures on your personal information and someone here could post them.
80's Mountain bikes get a lot love here at Bike Forums because they are versatile. They can be trail bikes, grocery bike, comfort bikes, commuters, or great all arounders. All while looking good and being sturdy.
The first step for me is a good cleaning. After using a wash cloth with a bucket of soapy water, I will dry the frame and bike and use polishing compound to bring back the shine. If it looks good at this point though you may only need car wax. Cleaning the wheels in the least fun, but the most rewarding after the wheels are nice and clean, the bike looks much better. Try to snake the wash cloth into the center of the wheel so that you can clean the hub.
I use smooth tread tires on my Mountain bikes since they are mostly ridden on pavement. To get things moving better in the beginning I use a lubricate spray in the cables. WD-40 will get in there, however, in my opinion, it doesn't last. Use what you have while we are in lock down.
Don't forget to take some before and after pictures and post them here. You'll need 10 posts to show your pictures. However, I believe that you can place pictures on your personal information and someone here could post them.
#4
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I use smooth tread tires on my Mountain bikes since they are mostly ridden on pavement. To get things moving better in the beginning I use a lubricate spray in the cables. WD-40 will get in there, however, in my opinion, it doesn't last. Use what you have while we are in lock down.
Don't forget to take some before and after pictures and post them here. You'll need 10 posts to show your pictures. However, I believe that you can place pictures on your personal information and someone here could post them.
Don't forget to take some before and after pictures and post them here. You'll need 10 posts to show your pictures. However, I believe that you can place pictures on your personal information and someone here could post them.
Ok so I have uploaded several pics to my user cp in an album. Hopefully you can see some of the components and share them to this thread for comments.
What tires do you recommend. My daughter definitely won't be going off road
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Love that colorful aluminum stem. I have one of those in bright green. Re:tires, Continental makes a good smoother all-purpose hybrid mtb kind of thing. My wife has them on a 90s MTB and never gets flats; they are a bit heavy though.
They’re something like this I believe.
https://www.nashbar.com/continental-...gaAoyrEALw_wcB
They’re something like this I believe.
https://www.nashbar.com/continental-...gaAoyrEALw_wcB
#7
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I've got a soft spot for Ross MTBs, since I own one and grew up in eastern PA.
That's not a bad starting point!
That style of brake was only popular for a short period of time, but availability of consumables - pads (with a smooth stud), cables and housing - are not going to be a problem. If everything can be cleaned and adjusted, and the consumables replaced, it shouldn't be a problem.
That crank is actually pretty cool!
What size are the tires? If they're the typical MTB size 26", with a bead seat diameter (BSD) of 559 millimeters, there are a number of good slick tires in that size at low prices. My favorite source is planetx.co.uk, even here in the USA. Filter by your tire size and you can look for good deals. For this type of bike and style of riding, I think 1.75 inch width (~45 mm) is a good compromise in width.
That's not a bad starting point!
That style of brake was only popular for a short period of time, but availability of consumables - pads (with a smooth stud), cables and housing - are not going to be a problem. If everything can be cleaned and adjusted, and the consumables replaced, it shouldn't be a problem.
That crank is actually pretty cool!
What size are the tires? If they're the typical MTB size 26", with a bead seat diameter (BSD) of 559 millimeters, there are a number of good slick tires in that size at low prices. My favorite source is planetx.co.uk, even here in the USA. Filter by your tire size and you can look for good deals. For this type of bike and style of riding, I think 1.75 inch width (~45 mm) is a good compromise in width.
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I believe this one is a 1988 model. The serial number will provide confirmation. The graphics and Alpha 3000 derailleurs are the same as 1987 but the Dia-Compe U-brakes use actual brazed-on studs, whereas the 1987 used Lee Chi rollercam clones that incorporated a bridge and mounted via a central bolt. This is an entry level ATB bordering on a city bicycle.
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#12
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Clone it is. I see a few of them scattered about ebay. Any 50.4 bcd that's not TA or Stronglight is unusual. Entry level maybe but cool just the same.
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Ross typically stamped the serial number on the underside of the bottom bracket shell. However, this is slightly later than I'm used to seeing, so they may have changed the location. Also check; 1.The lower, non-drive of the seat tube. 2. The rear dropouts. 3. The head tube.
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Nothing to do with ATBs, but...
Bear mountain is in the Hudson Valley region of New York, overlooking the Hudson River. It is to the right (east) of the Bear Mountain Bridge in the picture. It is shaped like a bear at rest. Very scenic area.

Last edited by cycleheimer; 05-12-20 at 05:54 AM.
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Been there a few times, but always driving.
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I live near there and have biked over that bridge! So it's almost poetic that I have my '87 Ross Bear Mountain on the stand on the porch, trying to bring it back to life.
