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1974 Super Course - new project

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1974 Super Course - new project

Old 06-15-20, 06:58 PM
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1974 Super Course - new project

1973 Super Course, as pointed out below. Seller said it was 1973 or 74, so I picked one and went with it, but don't see a way to edit title.
Projects keep rolling in faster than I can keep up with!
This one my neighbor bought for her husband, and I'm driving the fix up. The base bicycle was $100, but it came without a saddle. It just so happens that I have a similarly crusty old Brooks that I think will complete this well enough. The plan is to convert into an upright bar bike, with a thorough overhaul on components. I pumped up tires and they hold air, chain despite it's appearance turns smoothly. Chrome on the fork socks is way gone, i'll see how it goes, but the finished product will likely have a fair bit of "patina". I have a set of bars from the Montgomery Wards that I did two years ago, but may be swapping these around for a little while. I'm pulling the entire stem/brakes/cables for eventual conversion back to stock, if it ever happens. I'm not sure on what to use for shifters, although I'm thinking friction thumbies for now.

Here are some photos of the project materials before I begin teardown and my big order comes in from Harris.










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Old 06-15-20, 07:14 PM
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I'm pretty sure your rustbucket is a 1973 model. The prevailing wisdom here on bikeforums says that this was the only year Raleigh used those lugs. But what do I know.

I have a 1971 Super Course. I've used six kinds of handlebars on it, as I call it my testbed bike. Upright swept-back bars were the worst. It made the bike's steering floppy. This may or may not happen to you. If it does, try flat bars. Those worked well for me.

I look forward to seeing this progress!
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Old 06-15-20, 07:17 PM
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-----

looks like all good fun!

keep us posted as you work with it.

suspect this is a 1973.

for a 1974 it would be a Mk.II

-----
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Old 06-15-20, 08:47 PM
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Man, that’s some impressive rust. Seaside town rust. Hard to believe that chain still works. I wouldn’t use it. Twelve bucks for a new one and rest easy.
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Old 06-15-20, 08:48 PM
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I'm just here to see how the forks turn out.
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Old 06-21-20, 07:22 AM
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*No photo updates, but I stripped it down, treated rust, and am in the process of cleaning up all the parts. The headset was loose ball bearings and zero grease... so of course *ping *ping *ping the ball bearings all fell out on the floor... and I'm not 100% sure I collected them all, those things bounce like crazy. Also, my digital caliper is out of commission with a dead battery. Anyone here know what size/quantity ball bearings go in the headset?
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Old 06-21-20, 08:53 AM
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rocks in head , the headset bearings are 5/32". The Raleigh service manual from 1971 states 25 bearings top and 25 bottom. My 1972 Super Course would only hold 24 bearings in the top race, but 25 bottom. Same for a couple of Grand Prix's from the same era.

This may help...

1974 Raleigh Grand Prix Rehab.... Part 1... Headset

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Old 06-21-20, 09:42 AM
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If you're not sure, err on the side of putting in too few balls, not too many. Missing one or two won't cause problems. Having an extra one in there will cause problems.
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Old 06-21-20, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by branko_76 View Post
rocks in head , the headset bearings are 5/32". The Raleigh service manual from 1971 states 25 bearings top and 25 bottom. My 1972 Super Course would only hold 24 bearings in the top race, but 25 bottom. Same for a couple of Grand Prix's from the same era.

This may help...

1974 Raleigh Grand Prix Rehab.... Part 1... Headset
I've overhauled a few of those headsets, qty 25 of 5/32" top and bottom. noglider is correct, don't overpack. They used this headset on several models, and it's actually quite serviceable. All of the ones I've ever seen had no pitting, just clean up, regrease and new bearings, and Bob's your uncle.

The key to rebuilding these is to use plenty of grease, and starting upside down, pack the 25 bearings in carefully, install the fork, flip it over while holding the fork so the bearings don't fall out, then do the top. This is much easier to do on a bike stand with a bare frame. For disassembly I do it in reverse order with a red Solo cup held underneath to catch bearings, cause it's time to party.



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Old 06-21-20, 10:16 AM
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Well that's a pretty funny song, but I like The Girl I Can't Forget better. It has only a brief mention of a plastic cup.

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Old 06-21-20, 10:38 AM
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rocks in head , before you get too far in your restoration, check the frame alignment. Every Raleigh Grand Prix and Super Course from the 1970's I've restored, which is about a dozen at this point, have had seat/chain stays off centered from the frame. I used to use a vise to hold the bottom bracket shell, but I was never in full control of the process. Here is a solution that is far more effective...

1974 Raleigh Grand Prix Rehab...Part 5...Frame Alignment





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Old 06-21-20, 04:48 PM
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The humble Grand Prix is looking quite pampered I would say!

I just got a nice example (same frame size) in a 4-bike deal (sold the one modern bike of the four so the remaining three bikes are now paid for).

I distinctly remember one Grand Prix that I rode as a teenager that was by far the best-fitting bike I'd ever ridden. Thinking that the 23" Grand Prix will ride about like a Super Course (?).
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Old 06-21-20, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by dddd View Post
The humble Grand Prix is looking quite pampered I would say!

I just got a nice example (same frame size) in a 4-bike deal (sold the one modern bike of the four so the remaining three bikes are now paid for).

I distinctly remember one Grand Prix that I rode as a teenager that was by far the best-fitting bike I'd ever ridden. Thinking that the 23" Grand Prix will ride about like a Super Course (?).
I compared frame geometries of a 1972 Grand Prix and a 1972 Super Course while they were stripped of all components and they are identical. The obvious difference is the main tubes, Reynolds Plain Gauge for the SC and 20-30 for the GP. The other significant difference are the stays, thin wrap-around for the GP and beefier stays for the SC.
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Old 06-21-20, 08:28 PM
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Thanks all for spoon feeding me all the information I need, I like reading through people's posts about similar bikes, but it'd certainly miss things without all the input, and most people don't go into what size the bearings are that they're replacing. I've got shiny new balls on the way from McMaster Carr, and I'll check the frame alignment before I begin re-installing things. I'm thinking of going lose bearings for the BB instead of caged, but we'll see about that. Fingers crossed! Everything was removed but the headset cups, and things are starting to clean up nicely. Lined the lugs in gold, even. Definitely not a pro job but nothing about this bike is going to be concours ready. It'll have a neat patina though!


That fork is sure taking some time!
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Old 06-24-20, 05:28 PM
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polymorphself turns out 80% of the chrome on these forks is gone, did the best I could and put a clear coat over bare steel.


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Old 06-24-20, 06:06 PM
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What kind of clearcoat did you use?
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Old 06-25-20, 07:36 AM
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It was a one-step crystal clear automotive topcoat, I forget the brand. Acrylic.
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Old 06-25-20, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rocks in head View Post
polymorphself turns out 80% of the chrome on these forks is gone, did the best I could and put a clear coat over bare steel.


Hey it' still a little better than I expected. With the whole bike together and full of patina it shouldn't stand out so much. Also you're one post away from 1,000.
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Old 06-25-20, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by gugie View Post
I've overhauled a few of those headsets, qty 25 of 5/32" top and bottom. noglider is correct, don't overpack. They used this headset on several models, and it's actually quite serviceable. All of the ones I've ever seen had no pitting, just clean up, regrease and new bearings, and Bob's your uncle.

The key to rebuilding these is to use plenty of grease, and starting upside down, pack the 25 bearings in carefully, install the fork, flip it over while holding the fork so the bearings don't fall out, then do the top. This is much easier to do on a bike stand with a bare frame. For disassembly I do it in reverse order with a red Solo cup held underneath to catch bearings, cause it's time to party.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKZqGJONH68
and a powerful magnet.

I acquired a 1972 model (made in 1971, I believe) a couple years back in a similar state of "patina". I had it repainted and it's now an 81 speed with upright bars. The frames (like many 1970's Raleighs) are very versatile.
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Old 10-28-20, 05:17 AM
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Hmmm, 27 x 3 or 9 x 9?

Pics please.

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Old 11-25-20, 09:42 PM
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I did have to cold set the rear triangle to realign it. I ended up putting new wheels, Pasellas, riser stem, hybrid bars, cork grips, thumb shifters, new cables and housing, and topped it off with a re-conditioned Brooks. Unfortunately I didn't get photos, but I'll get them sooner or later!
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