Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Best Bottom Bracket for Modern Crank Upgrade

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Best Bottom Bracket for Modern Crank Upgrade

Old 06-28-20, 12:02 PM
  #1  
crandress 
Crapmaster
Thread Starter
 
crandress's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Dubuque, IA
Posts: 1,170

Bikes: 1953 Terrot, 1980 Mercian Vincitore, Bridgestone MB3, Atala Corsa GS, Bottecchia Gran Turismo, Raleigh Olympian

Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 309 Post(s)
Liked 35 Times in 27 Posts
Best Bottom Bracket for Modern Crank Upgrade

Hello everyone, not exactly C&V except for the frame. I tired the Clydesdale forum first, but got no response. I am upgrading my mountain bike components (Bridgestone BM-3) and looking at Shimano's 3x9 Alivio. However, they make two models of 3x9 cranks. One uses a square taper bottom bracket, the other uses outboard or through bottom brackets, not sure the exact terminology. I am pretty heavy rider, 250+, so is on of these technologies better for a heavy rider? My gut says the square taper is better, but that is without any technical knowledge of the two. So which is better for a heavy rider? If my current bottom bracket is the right length for the 9 speed square taper, I might just go that route, but if I have change it, this would be helpful. Note, I had to upgrade the rims a while back, so the rear hub can do 7-10 speed, so that won't be an issue.

Thanks in advance! Chris
__________________
Chris

Crapmaster Emeritus
crandress is offline  
Old 06-28-20, 12:35 PM
  #2  
orangeology 
category ii hoarder
 
orangeology's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: NYC+NNJ
Posts: 1,239

Bikes: i don't have a bike. a few frames, forks and some parts. that's all

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Liked 31 Times in 24 Posts
i'm no MTB expert, but in general:

1. modern BB = larger spindle + thinner wall = requiring more material/mess in the crank arms i.e) carbon crankset friendly. so your question can also depend on what crankset you have or plan to have.
2. not sure about its relevancy to the rider's weight, but square taper has another advantage of seviceability + relatively more flexibility on chainline adjustment (also due to slightly better interchangeability withing the parts)
3. MB-3 came with Deore which is ok-to-mediocre, ppl seem to keen on to upgrade to XLS or XT.
4. if square taper, i'd go with slightly more modern like with sealed bearings. heard White Industries (come with for 68mm or 73mm shell) make indestructible ones. pricey, but worthy.

good luck and pls post some pics when done. vintage Bridgestones are beauts.
orangeology is offline  
Old 06-28-20, 12:42 PM
  #3  
tyrion
Senior Member
 
tyrion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,942

Bikes: Breezer Radar

Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1576 Post(s)
Liked 630 Times in 314 Posts
Not sure which kind of BB would be considered stronger, but both will be strong enough. Given the choice, I'd go with external - easier to work on and better parts availability (I think).
tyrion is offline  
Old 06-28-20, 03:21 PM
  #4  
NatusEstInSuht
Senior Member
 
NatusEstInSuht's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 131

Bikes: 1979 Carlton Professional (frame only), 2005 Trek 5000, 2011 Niner EMD, 2018 Argon 18 XRoad

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked 40 Times in 28 Posts
Given these two options, I'd go with the Hollowpoint outboard bottom bracket all day long. It will be stiffer and much easier to service.
NatusEstInSuht is offline  
Old 06-28-20, 05:44 PM
  #5  
Road Fan
Senior Member
 
Road Fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 14,848

Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8

Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1056 Post(s)
Liked 117 Times in 104 Posts
The best BB is first of all, the one that fits. Second of all, it's one that is available, including its tools, those that you might not have. Third, it's one that is affordable. I think square versus external is not a significant point. Within types there is some hype, maybe a lot of hype, over which brand and level is "most durable" but for every BB there is somebody or several somebodies whom have broken it or had some problem with it resulting in dissatisfaction, regardless of price. Some premium performance aspects, such as smoothness, are just not easy to appreciate on the road, beyond a basic decent level of refinement.
Road Fan is offline  
Old 06-28-20, 06:06 PM
  #6  
Bigbus
Senior Member
 
Bigbus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Central West Coast
Posts: 601

Bikes: In Flux

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 181 Post(s)
Liked 94 Times in 74 Posts
I would go with a square taper and sealed cartridge only because that's what I have on all my current bikes (after upgrading some old loose bearing BBs) and I have all the necessary tools for doing my own work on them. Except that after I upgrade I rarely have to work on them. But do your own research and form your own opinion before you make the leap and you'll probably be happy either way you go.
Bigbus is offline  
Old 06-28-20, 06:35 PM
  #7  
Narhay
Senior Member
 
Narhay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
Posts: 3,232
Mentioned: 95 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 751 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 190 Times in 127 Posts
Outboard BB
Narhay is offline  
Old 06-28-20, 06:54 PM
  #8  
Classtime 
Senior Member
 
Classtime's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 2,259

Bikes: 81 Medici, 84 Centurion Turbo, 2011 Richard Sachs, '90 Alpina Team, 85 TREK 620, 2011 Milwaukee Road

Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 845 Post(s)
Liked 228 Times in 167 Posts
It looks like you have bikes with loose ball square staper cranks and probably know how to service them. I'd stick with what you know. Whichever you choose, Bottom brackets should not be consumables.
__________________
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
Classtime is offline  
Likes For Classtime:
Old 06-28-20, 07:06 PM
  #9  
mstateglfr 
Sunshine
 
mstateglfr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 10,445

Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '87 Schwinn Prelude, Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo, '18 Diamondback Syncr

Mentioned: 94 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4079 Post(s)
Liked 1,052 Times in 675 Posts
Originally Posted by crandress View Post
Hello everyone, not exactly C&V except for the frame. I tired the Clydesdale forum first, but got no response. I am upgrading my mountain bike components (Bridgestone BM-3) and looking at Shimano's 3x9 Alivio. However, they make two models of 3x9 cranks. One uses a square taper bottom bracket, the other uses outboard or through bottom brackets, not sure the exact terminology. I am pretty heavy rider, 250+, so is on of these technologies better for a heavy rider? My gut says the square taper is better, but that is without any technical knowledge of the two. So which is better for a heavy rider? If my current bottom bracket is the right length for the 9 speed square taper, I might just go that route, but if I have change it, this would be helpful. Note, I had to upgrade the rims a while back, so the rear hub can do 7-10 speed, so that won't be an issue.

Thanks in advance! Chris
Neither is 'better'. They are just different ways to skin a cat.
I tore down a road bike of mine that has a Tange square taper cartridge bottom bracket from a few years ago and was mesmerized by how smooth it turned and how little fricton there is when spinning the crank arms.
But that means nothing in terms of what is best because its not like external bottom bracket cups that don't spin as long are worse.

If updating a ceank to something modern, I would go for an outboard bottom bracket for sure. The overall setup is lighter and stiffer than any square taper setup I've used. Its also dead easy to set up and replace(years later when its needed).

I dont have interest in pulling bottom brackets and fudging with the tension for loose ball bottom brackets. I've done dozens of em, they can work great, but it just isn't an interest.

The tool to remove a Shimano external bottom bracket cup is 10x more secure and easier to use than the tool for a cartridge bottom bracket.
mstateglfr is offline  
Old 06-29-20, 09:14 AM
  #10  
Bigbus
Senior Member
 
Bigbus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Central West Coast
Posts: 601

Bikes: In Flux

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 181 Post(s)
Liked 94 Times in 74 Posts
https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buy...ket-standards/

Just a little help with your research.
Bigbus is offline  
Old 06-29-20, 04:37 PM
  #11  
crandress 
Crapmaster
Thread Starter
 
crandress's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Dubuque, IA
Posts: 1,170

Bikes: 1953 Terrot, 1980 Mercian Vincitore, Bridgestone MB3, Atala Corsa GS, Bottecchia Gran Turismo, Raleigh Olympian

Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 309 Post(s)
Liked 35 Times in 27 Posts
Thanks for all your responses. Sounds like I am good either way. I am comfortable with adjusting and older square taper or cartridge. I was just mostly concerned if these newer ones would support the weight and it sounds like it does.

Thanks - Chris
__________________
Chris

Crapmaster Emeritus
crandress is offline  
Old 06-29-20, 05:52 PM
  #12  
Andy_K 
Senior Member
 
Andy_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 12,495

Bikes: Yes

Mentioned: 323 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1927 Post(s)
Liked 346 Times in 185 Posts
An outboard bottom bracket gives you fixed chainline, with very little you can do to change it. With recent MTB triple cranksets, that's usually 50mm. That's a bit further out than is ideal for a bike with even 130mm rear spacing. The square taper would give you the freedom to choose different spindle lengths to adjust the chainline. This isn't a major issue, but if you've got nothing else tipping the scales, this could be it.
__________________
My Bikes
Andy_K is offline  
Likes For Andy_K:
Old 06-29-20, 06:39 PM
  #13  
crandress 
Crapmaster
Thread Starter
 
crandress's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Dubuque, IA
Posts: 1,170

Bikes: 1953 Terrot, 1980 Mercian Vincitore, Bridgestone MB3, Atala Corsa GS, Bottecchia Gran Turismo, Raleigh Olympian

Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 309 Post(s)
Liked 35 Times in 27 Posts
Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
An outboard bottom bracket gives you fixed chainline, with very little you can do to change it. With recent MTB triple cranksets, that's usually 50mm. That's a bit further out than is ideal for a bike with even 130mm rear spacing. The square taper would give you the freedom to choose different spindle lengths to adjust the chainline. This isn't a major issue, but if you've got nothing else tipping the scales, this could be it.
Fair point!
__________________
Chris

Crapmaster Emeritus
crandress is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.