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When did 26 tpi end for headsets?

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When did 26 tpi end for headsets?

Old 08-06-20, 12:22 PM
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Road Fan
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When did 26 tpi end for headsets?

For Raleigh bikes, a feature is that the fork steerer and BB threading was 26 tpi x 1." On my 1952 Rudge that is the case. This is a Nottingham bike. I've read that somewhen around 1972 Raleigh abandoned that threading at leasf or the Super Course, and henceforth Carltons were industry-standard 24 tpi x 1."

But did Raleigh abandon 26tpi for the Sports and other Roadsters? If so, when?

Problem is, I need to have a set of spare headset parts to support this old Rudge lady. I don't know what similar Raleigh headsets for steel bikes (roadsters and clubman-types) I can safetly buy, except by trial and error.

Any wisdom to share?
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Old 08-06-20, 05:34 PM
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Probably your best source for 1" x 26tpi headset parts is a derelict Raleigh 3-speed. Is your Rudge completely lacking a headset, or do you have a headset you feel needs replacing? If you have a headset, you can usually replace the lower stack (crown race and lower pressed cup) with standard ISO parts (keeping the stack height relatively close to the original, of course) and retain the original upper parts (upper pressed race, threaded cup, and locknut). The upper parts seldom wear out; all the load is carried by the lower stack. The upper stack only serves to hold things in alignment.
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Old 08-06-20, 06:56 PM
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Believe it or not Raliiegh ran the old 26tpi wetworth tooling on mid and entry level models made in in the Nottingham tell they stopped production on lesser models at that location in 1982.. Since even on the low end stuff the Raliegh headsets and bottom brackrets were very good basically same for a;ll models your best source is likely to go to a bike coop and start looking at older semi junk Raliegh frames.
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Old 08-07-20, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by zukahn1 View Post
Believe it or not Raliiegh ran the old 26tpi wetworth tooling on mid and entry level models made in in the Nottingham tell they stopped production on lesser models at that location in 1982.. Since even on the low end stuff the Raliegh headsets and bottom brackrets were very good basically same for a;ll models your best source is likely to go to a bike coop and start looking at older semi junk Raliegh frames.
Ok, that's great information and it helps! I just bought a set of cups and races on Ebay from a 1974 Sport (said the seller), but that says it should be a correct fit. Upon reassembling the bike the bearing feels good when the fork is straight ahead (smooth, sensitive to gravity and free of play) but at 90 degrees there is a binding. It may become less with riding, but when I rebuild again I need good set of races and cups.
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Old 08-07-20, 06:19 AM
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There are 26 tpi headsets and BBs listed on the Yellow Jersey and High Nelly websites. Probably made in India? Don't know of anyone trying them, though.
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Old 08-07-20, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Road Fan View Post
Ok, that's great information and it helps! I just bought a set of cups and races on Ebay from a 1974 Sport (said the seller), but that says it should be a correct fit. Upon reassembling the bike the bearing feels good when the fork is straight ahead (smooth, sensitive to gravity and free of play) but at 90 degrees there is a binding. It may become less with riding, but when I rebuild again I need good set of races and cups.
That has been my experience with every 1970's era Raleigh with 26tpi I've rebuilt. Refacing the headtubes helped but did not entirely eliminate the positional binding.

1974 Raleigh Grand Prix Rehab.... Part 1... Headset
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Old 08-08-20, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by branko_76 View Post
That has been my experience with every 1970's era Raleigh with 26tpi I've rebuilt. Refacing the headtubes helped but did not entirely eliminate the positional binding.

1974 Raleigh Grand Prix Rehab.... Part 1... Headset
Ok then, for a test ride it's fine the way it is.

Currently I have the front hub overhauled and spinning well, the rims trued, gearhub oiled and shifting (AW marked 1952, I could use a new indicator for it), shift cable fulcrum set, headset in as described, calipers centered, 'bars installed, and the original seat post with a vintage Brooks Professional Select leveled and set back.

The BB/chainset is a little more exotic. I put a TA 344 spindle into the original cups, and an old TA Cyclotourist double fits the frame well. My chain is 101 links, the right length for a 44/28 front with the original 17 tooth rear, at least according to my Excel calculations. It's really loose with 42/26 and the 17. I couldn't find the original Renolds chain. I have another of the vintage but the pins are really hard to press out so I'm trying to use it as it is. The spindle is for a double so if the test ride goes well I'll rig up a front derailleur and chain tensioner. If I can't I'll try to adjust the front chainline for a few mm less width. Maybe I can make the drive-side balls 3/16" and use 5/16 on the non-drive side. But if the properly-sized chain tracks well, it might tolerate any existing misalignment.
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