Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Colnago Master Bottom Bracket Issue (NYC)

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Colnago Master Bottom Bracket Issue (NYC)

Old 08-11-20, 03:34 PM
  #1  
jimbossa
Member
Thread Starter
 
jimbossa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Manhattan, New York
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Colnago Master Bottom Bracket Issue (NYC)

I have a late 80's/early 90's Colnago Master Piu with 1st gen 8speed dura ace. Recently, my cranks have started shifting laterally, about 2-3mm. I checked/tightened the chainrings so that isn't the problem. I have taken it to four different bike shops in Manhattan and they have all concluded that it is a bottom bracket issue but none have a square taper Italian BB and 3/4 shops tell me they do not know when they can get one. The last one was not confident when they would have it in and asked for me to check-in a week from now.

I remember relying on this forum and Sheldon Brown's (RIP) site back when I built the bike in 2009. I consulted Sheldon Brown's site again and just wanted to see if people could confirm that I need a 70mm x 113mm bottom bracket to match with my 8-speed groupset?
https://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html#dura

Would this work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-BOT...8AAOxy9tpR84Fz

My plan was to originally upgrade my entire drivetrain to SRAM Force 22 and a new wheelset once Covid-19 died down and prices came back down but i just got laid off on Friday so that isn't an option anymore.

As an aside, are there any folks in the NYC area who have a spare Italian bottom bracket kicking around that i can buy or a spot/set up for me to attempt the BB change myself?

If I recall correctly about the rules of the forum, I have included a pic of my bike.
jimbossa is offline  
Old 08-11-20, 03:52 PM
  #2  
mprince
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 127

Bikes: Steelman Stage Race, Dura-Ace 9s

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 30 Post(s)
Liked 49 Times in 29 Posts
Check the backside of a crankarm for a model number. If you have FC-7400 or FC-7402 the BB you linked should work per Sheldon's chart.

If all else fails, you could put a Phil Wood BB in there
mprince is offline  
Old 08-11-20, 04:18 PM
  #3  
jiangshi
OFG in Exile
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,756
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 428 Post(s)
Liked 146 Times in 99 Posts
Remove the drive side cup. put teflon tape on the treads, smear some grease on the shell of the BB, and crank it down real tight! Italian threaded BB can do this if not tightened properly.
jiangshi is offline  
Old 08-11-20, 04:35 PM
  #4  
jimbossa
Member
Thread Starter
 
jimbossa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Manhattan, New York
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by mprince View Post
Check the backside of a crankarm for a model number. If you have FC-7400 or FC-7402 the BB you linked should work per Sheldon's chart.

If all else fails, you could put a Phil Wood BB in there
Thanks! 7400 crank arms so I might go ahead and get the BB and hope a store can put it together.

Originally Posted by jiangshi View Post
Remove the drive side cup. put teflon tape on the treads, smear some grease on the shell of the BB, and crank it down real tight! Italian threaded BB can do this if not tightened properly.
I was hoping it was just a loose BB but multiple shops thought it was a broken BB. I would love to explore the loose BB option but like most folks living in NYC, I don't have access to any equipment beyond basic servicing tools.
jimbossa is offline  
Old 08-11-20, 04:45 PM
  #5  
Spaghetti Legs 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 4,101

Bikes: Numerous

Mentioned: 95 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1255 Post(s)
Liked 728 Times in 345 Posts
Weird that a bike shop can’t source an Italian thread BB in a timely fashion. That BB you linked is a UN26 which is bottom of the line. In your shoes I would splurge an extra $10 if you can to go with the UN55. They usually have them for around $25 shipped on Amazon. Good reliable BB.

As far as the problem you describe it sounds like the BB might have backed out on the drive side but that is an unusual problem if the BB has been in place for a long time. If it’s gonna happen, IME, it’s usually within the first 100 miles or so after an install. If it is otherwise working fine, I’d be at a loss to explain why it’s doing that without some kind of god awful noises coming out when you pedal.
__________________
N = '96 Colnago C40, '04 Wilier Alpe D'Huez, '10 Colnago EPS, '85 Merckx Pro, '89 Merckx Century, '86 Tommasini Professional, '04 Teschner Aero FX Pro, '05 Alan Carbon Cross, '86 De Rosa Professional, '82 Colnago Super, '95 Gios Compact Pro, '95 Carrera Zeus, '84 Basso Gap, Ď89 Cinelli Supercorsa, Ď83 Bianchi Specialissima, Ď85 Pinarello Record, Ritchey Breakaway Steel, '84 Paletti Super Prestige, Heron Randonneur
Spaghetti Legs is offline  
Old 08-11-20, 07:43 PM
  #6  
jimbossa
Member
Thread Starter
 
jimbossa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Manhattan, New York
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Spaghetti Legs View Post
Weird that a bike shop canít source an Italian thread BB in a timely fashion. That BB you linked is a UN26 which is bottom of the line. In your shoes I would splurge an extra $10 if you can to go with the UN55. They usually have them for around $25 shipped on Amazon. Good reliable BB.

As far as the problem you describe it sounds like the BB might have backed out on the drive side but that is an unusual problem if the BB has been in place for a long time. If itís gonna happen, IME, itís usually within the first 100 miles or so after an install. If it is otherwise working fine, Iíd be at a loss to explain why itís doing that without some kind of god awful noises coming out when you pedal.
Thanks. Good to know. I was unsure on the BB hierachy. I'll try and source a UN55 in the 70mm x 130mm but haven't had much luck yet. I was shocked too that most LBS in Manhattan did not have an Italian threaded square taper or couldn't order but my own search so far has proven difficult which i guess confirms their statements.

Not a god awful sound, but definitely a noticeable skipping sound as if the crank wasn't catching at each pedal-stroke. Definitely makes more sound during climbs. As you said, I installed the BB ages ago (back in 2009 in undergrad) and this is a relatively new issue.
jimbossa is offline  
Old 08-11-20, 07:50 PM
  #7  
rccardr 
aka: Dr. Cannondale
 
rccardr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,333

Bikes: Lots. Just...lots.

Mentioned: 176 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1473 Post(s)
Liked 716 Times in 361 Posts
2-3mm lateral shift means either a loose cup (DS cup in pic appears properly seated) or some serioisly worn out ball bearings. If itís bearings there will be more damage to the spindle.
As Spago said,unusual for a cup to back out later in life.
Literally ANY italian threaded 113-115 mm Shimano or Shimano compatible BB will interface just fine with that crankset. UN55 is better and there are more italian threaded ones out there (checked eBay and they are out there for like $30 plus shipping)
Velo Orange sells one that I think is rebranded Tange and they are also good.
Spend more or less, your choice. Personally, I would buy the needed tools and do it myself if my LBS was unable or backed up.
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
rccardr is offline  
Old 08-11-20, 08:21 PM
  #8  
ascherer 
Senior Member
 
ascherer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Manhattan
Posts: 1,852

Bikes: 1987 Mercian Pro, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10E, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mk1

Mentioned: 74 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 545 Post(s)
Liked 860 Times in 385 Posts
Have you checked with Larry's Freewheeling on 110th? You'd need to speak with Larry himself, the young folks are nice but have no idea what you're talking about. He may have something in his stash.
__________________
1987 Mercian Pro, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10E, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1972 Raleigh Super Course
ascherer is offline  
Old 08-11-20, 08:39 PM
  #9  
jimbossa
Member
Thread Starter
 
jimbossa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Manhattan, New York
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
2-3mm lateral shift means either a loose cup (DS cup in pic appears properly seated) or some serioisly worn out ball bearings. If itís bearings there will be more damage to the spindle.
As Spago said,unusual for a cup to back out later in life.
Literally ANY italian threaded 113-115 mm Shimano or Shimano compatible BB will interface just fine with that crankset. UN55 is better and there are more italian threaded ones out there (checked eBay and they are out there for like $30 plus shipping)
Velo Orange sells one that I think is rebranded Tange and they are also good.
Spend more or less, your choice. Personally, I would buy the needed tools and do it myself if my LBS was unable or backed up.
Thanks. I'll explore this option. Checked Velo Orange and unfortunately they do not have anything Italian threaded larger than 110mm. Out of curiosity, how are both the 130mm and 150mm compatible. 2cm extra seems surprising, or am I assuming I'll need to readjust the front derailleur?

A forum member, Jethin has mentioned he may have a BB and might be able to help me replace it.

Originally Posted by ascherer View Post
Have you checked with Larry's Freewheeling on 110th? You'd need to speak with Larry himself, the young folks are nice but have no idea what you're talking about. He may have something in his stash.
I'll check this store out tomorrow and ask for Larry - hopefully he's in. It is relatively close to me. I checked out Velo NYC, Bicycle Renaissance, Sid's, and Zen bikes.
jimbossa is offline  
Likes For jimbossa:
Old 08-11-20, 08:52 PM
  #10  
ascherer 
Senior Member
 
ascherer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Manhattan
Posts: 1,852

Bikes: 1987 Mercian Pro, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10E, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mk1

Mentioned: 74 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 545 Post(s)
Liked 860 Times in 385 Posts
Originally Posted by jimbossa View Post
Thanks. I'll explore this option. Checked Velo Orange and unfortunately they do not have anything Italian threaded larger than 110mm. Out of curiosity, how are both the 130mm and 150mm compatible. 2cm extra seems surprising, or am I assuming I'll need to readjust the front derailleur?

A forum member, Jethin has mentioned he may have a BB and might be able to help me replace it.



I'll check this store out tomorrow and ask for Larry - hopefully he's in. It is relatively close to me. I checked out Velo NYC, Bicycle Renaissance, Sid's, and Zen bikes.
Good luck, let us know. I'm in the neighborhood too.
__________________
1987 Mercian Pro, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10E, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1972 Raleigh Super Course
ascherer is offline  
Old 08-11-20, 08:58 PM
  #11  
jethin
Senior Member
 
jethin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 875
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 187 Post(s)
Liked 91 Times in 52 Posts
Yep, happy to help if I can, though Iím a bit of a ride from you. And I second Larryís. Anyway Iím sure weíll get you fixed up one way or another.

Last edited by jethin; 08-11-20 at 09:02 PM.
jethin is offline  
Old 08-11-20, 08:59 PM
  #12  
Charles Wahl
Disraeli Gears
 
Charles Wahl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 3,804
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 318 Post(s)
Liked 136 Times in 91 Posts
If you need to borrow BB tools, and can live in or can travel to the Upper West Side (Columbia Univ. area) and will take social distancing as seriously as I do, then I may be able to help -- that is, I could do without the tools for a day when you've got all the stuff together to accomplish this.

One thing that you might want to look out for is: Sutherland's Manual says that, like vintage Campagnolo BB spindles, Dura-Ace 7400 spindles are asymmetrical: the drive side projects farther from the shell and/or bearings than the non-drive side does, for a spindle that's nominally 113 wide (standard road double). However, most garden-variety (leaving out, say, high-end products like Phil Wood cartridge bearing BBs are symmetrical -- both ends are the same length. Thus, you may need to get a longer cartridge BB to have the same chainline that you did with a loose-ball BB.


You can see from the above that the asymmetry is fairly significant -- the left side (A) is 8 mm shorter than the right. Assuming that the dimension B is centered on the BB shell, I think if one were to take the B and C dimensions, and even things up, an equivalent symmetrical spindle that would give the same chain line would be 121 mm, 8 mm longer than the 113 Dura-Ace original.

Additionally, there's the characterization by Sutherland's that the closest taper "type" is "Campy", while most garden-variety cartridge bearing units have a JIS taper. Campy is very close, but JIS is "technically" a bit stubbier on the end, meaning that you might find that a JIS 121 mm spindle would be too long; but my guess is, just a few mm too long, not 8 mm.

A third variable here is how worn (leading to oversize, and sitting closer to the BB shell than it did originally) the female socket of your drive-side crank arm is.

Within reason, you can make a shorter spindle achieve your ideal chainline by adding a thin but hard shim of good quality under the flange of the drive-side (fixed) cup, padding it out. But again, that's going to help for maybe 1-2 mm. If you were using a Phil Wood, whose design has some built-in adjustability, then maybe a couple more? Dunno myself, you'd have to check with them.

Upshot: you might need to fit a cartridge bearing BB by a bit of trial-and-error to achieve the right chainline for your bike. Once you have one, if it doesn't seem to be actually working in the length department, then at least you'll have a good model for buying the second one with more assurance of success.
Disclaimer: I don't know much at all about Dura-Ace stuff; (or Phil Wood stuff) I just find this subject of tapers interesting, and have a copy of Sutherland's for reference. YMMV.
Sorry, but BBs can be complicated, even though they look deceptively simple. Thank your lucky stars that you don't have one of those new-fangled contraptions, which are probably even worse.

Finally, do you realize that your profile says "Seattle" and not NYC?
Charles Wahl is offline  
Old 08-12-20, 09:46 AM
  #13  
jimbossa
Member
Thread Starter
 
jimbossa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Manhattan, New York
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by ascherer View Post
Good luck, let us know. I'm in the neighborhood too.
Thanks for the Larry's recommendation! Stopped by there this morning. Larry was out but one of his employees had a look, diagnosed it as a loose cup issue ( i should have included more pics for you guys) and tightened the cups/bb. Only issue is apparently I've now developed a front derailleur issue. I've toyed around with limiter screws in addition to the cable but the derailleur is refusing to shift out of my high gear - not really a problem I guess as I rarely ever used the low gear - and a problem I'll leave till I'm working again.


Originally Posted by Charles Wahl View Post
If you need to borrow BB tools, and can live in or can travel to the Upper West Side (Columbia Univ. area) and will take social distancing as seriously as I do, then I may be able to help -- that is, I could do without the tools for a day when you've got all the stuff together to accomplish this.

Finally, do you realize that your profile says "Seattle" and not NYC?
Thank you for the kind offer - i actually live in the UWS too. As I mentioned above, larry's shop seems to have fixed the BB issue - at least for now. I appreciate you offering your tools out but I'm sure I would have botched the job even with multiple tutorials.

I know my profile says Seattle. Definitely due for a change. Its leftover from when I started the account and I was in undergrad. I've actually lived in three cities since but always intended to move back to Seattle hence the lack of change.
jimbossa is offline  
Old 08-12-20, 02:12 PM
  #14  
Charles Wahl
Disraeli Gears
 
Charles Wahl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 3,804
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 318 Post(s)
Liked 136 Times in 91 Posts
You're welcome, and if you need a hand with anything else bike-related that I can provide, don't hesitate to reach out.
Front derailleurs are easy compared to bottom brackets, seems to me. Limit stop to limit stop, so long as it's set up parallel to the big ring, cage close to it, and not bent. Maybe not, with brifters though, or a Shimano product (known for idiosyncrasies, incompatibilities and unceasing but unnecessary change).
About Seattle: I understand completely -- my son lives in Seattle, it's a great city, we visited regularly before the pandemic, and if I weren't a confirmed NYC-dweller with some roots now that keep us here, we'd think about moving there too.

Last edited by Charles Wahl; 08-12-20 at 02:18 PM.
Charles Wahl is offline  
Old 08-12-20, 05:03 PM
  #15  
merziac
Senior Member
 
merziac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 7,438

Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2

Mentioned: 156 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2228 Post(s)
Liked 1,360 Times in 924 Posts
Originally Posted by jimbossa View Post
Thanks for the Larry's recommendation! Stopped by there this morning. Larry was out but one of his employees had a look, diagnosed it as a loose cup issue ( i should have included more pics for you guys) and tightened the cups/bb. Only issue is apparently I've now developed a front derailleur issue. I've toyed around with limiter screws in addition to the cable but the derailleur is refusing to shift out of my high gear - not really a problem I guess as I rarely ever used the low gear - and a problem I'll leave till I'm working again.




Thank you for the kind offer - i actually live in the UWS too. As I mentioned above, larry's shop seems to have fixed the BB issue - at least for now. I appreciate you offering your tools out but I'm sure I would have botched the job even with multiple tutorials.

I know my profile says Seattle. Definitely due for a change. Its leftover from when I started the account and I was in undergrad. I've actually lived in three cities since but always intended to move back to Seattle hence the lack of change.
I would encourage you to take Charles up on his offer, make sure the BB doesn't need an overhaul, may not but should be inspected after loosening issue to make sure.

He can probably help with the shifting issue as well, you are in a place to get this sorted and with help the outlay will be minimal for long term success.
merziac is online now  
Old 08-12-20, 06:34 PM
  #16  
ascherer 
Senior Member
 
ascherer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Manhattan
Posts: 1,852

Bikes: 1987 Mercian Pro, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10E, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mk1

Mentioned: 74 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 545 Post(s)
Liked 860 Times in 385 Posts
Originally Posted by jimbossa View Post
Thanks for the Larry's recommendation! Stopped by there this morning. Larry was out but one of his employees had a look, diagnosed it as a loose cup issue ( i should have included more pics for you guys) and tightened the cups/bb. Only issue is apparently I've now developed a front derailleur issue. I've toyed around with limiter screws in addition to the cable but the derailleur is refusing to shift out of my high gear - not really a problem I guess as I rarely ever used the low gear - and a problem I'll leave till I'm working again.




Thank you for the kind offer - i actually live in the UWS too. As I mentioned above, larry's shop seems to have fixed the BB issue - at least for now. I appreciate you offering your tools out but I'm sure I would have botched the job even with multiple tutorials.

I know my profile says Seattle. Definitely due for a change. Its leftover from when I started the account and I was in undergrad. I've actually lived in three cities since but always intended to move back to Seattle hence the lack of change.
Cool, glad that's handled. All three of us in the UWS. If only group rides were a thing...and it was less than 90 degrees out.
__________________
1987 Mercian Pro, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10E, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mark I
Curator/Team Mechanic: 1984 Lotus Eclair, 1974 Raleigh Sports, 1972 Raleigh Super Course
ascherer is offline  
Old 08-12-20, 06:45 PM
  #17  
Headpost
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 333

Bikes: My LeJeune got stolen. Now just cheapies

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked 113 Times in 72 Posts
I took a worn-out cone nut into a super-fancy NYC bike shop a few months ago hoping they could match it. They sent me to the back where I met this kid who couldn't have been a day older than 20--gorgeous kid, looked like a model. He took one look at it, looked me straight in the eye, and said: "Oh, you're going need a new wheel."

Sorry for the OT rant. There are also a lot of good bike shops here in NYC. R & A Cycles out here in Brooklyn seems to specialize in fancy Italian bikes like yours. They also seem very knowledgeable and helpful, and while you're there you can ogle all the $$$ bikes and frames hanging from the walls and ceiling.

Last edited by Headpost; 08-12-20 at 06:58 PM.
Headpost is offline  
Old 08-12-20, 07:37 PM
  #18  
merziac
Senior Member
 
merziac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 7,438

Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2

Mentioned: 156 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2228 Post(s)
Liked 1,360 Times in 924 Posts
Originally Posted by Headpost View Post
I took a worn-out cone nut into a super-fancy NYC bike shop a few months ago hoping they could match it. They sent me to the back where I met this kid who couldn't have been a day older than 20--gorgeous kid, looked like a model. He took one look at it, looked me straight in the eye, and said: "Oh, you're going need a new wheel."

Sorry for the OT rant. There are also a lot of good bike shops here in NYC. R & A Cycles out here in Brooklyn seems to specialize in fancy Italian bikes like yours. They also seem very knowledgeable and helpful, and while you're there you can ogle all the $$$ bikes and frames hanging from the walls and ceiling.
This is not even funny to me, that probably works on the majority of customers and you can be sure that the resident C+V guy scoops up all the stuff that gets "upgraded" to modern crap.

Don't get me wrong, new stuff suits the modern crowd and that's fine but the disposable, threadless, cartridge cookie cutter crap has rendered skilled techs to parts replacers with no real respect for the skills that built their trade, instant gratification rules the day. Too bad.
merziac is online now  
Old 08-12-20, 07:50 PM
  #19  
paulmalva
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Can you see which part is moving laterally?
If the cranks are moving on the axle, you might need new cranks more than a new BB.
If the axle is moving laterally you could try to take it apart. Older BBs sometimes have exchangeable bearings.

Good luck!
paulmalva is offline  
Old 08-12-20, 07:54 PM
  #20  
Headpost
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 333

Bikes: My LeJeune got stolen. Now just cheapies

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 160 Post(s)
Liked 113 Times in 72 Posts
Originally Posted by merziac View Post
This is not even funny to me, that probably works on the majority of customers and you can be sure that the resident C+V guy scoops up all the stuff that gets "upgraded" to modern crap.

Don't get me wrong, new stuff suits the modern crowd and that's fine but the disposable, threadless, cartridge cookie cutter crap has rendered skilled techs to parts replacers with no real respect for the skills that built their trade, instant gratification rules the day. Too bad.
Yeah, it was hard to know, in this case, whether he wanted to sell me a new wheel or whether he genuinely believed that I needed one. In any case, another shop was able to match the nut and the wheel is still working great on my main road bike--not even a very old bicycle; I was psyched to discover that it didn't have sealed bearings in the first place. (I would post a picture of it, but most of you would be horrified.)
Headpost is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.