The Component Everyone Loves (Except You)
#76
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NW Burbs, Chicago
Posts: 11,740
Mentioned: 192 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2761 Post(s)
Liked 2,905 Times
in
1,158 Posts
#77
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 8,876
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 127 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1432 Post(s)
Liked 1,056 Times
in
732 Posts
FYI. It used to be a fairly commonly held view that galvanized spokes were superior and stainless spokes were for dandies or something. Believe it or not!
There weren't stainless cables in the old days, but the nice thing about galvanized cables it that it was easy to solder the ends. Cleaner look than cable ends.
There weren't stainless cables in the old days, but the nice thing about galvanized cables it that it was easy to solder the ends. Cleaner look than cable ends.
The early Japanese stainless OEM spokes were often the worst thing imaginable, singlehandedly responsible for countless good Japanese bikes turning up without original wheels on them.
I've got old bikes with galvanized spokes that have serious miles on them with nary a spoke failure. Even some of the rusty-crusty plated spokes survived years of riding without one of them snapping.
#78
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 331
Bikes: '68 Masi Special road, Grail bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 108 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 70 Times
in
58 Posts
the 2-bolt seatpost is the BEST. it is the ONLY way to truly be MICRO adjustable.
discard the Campy wrench, the Dia-compe offset brake wrench is 12 point as opposed
to 6. it's also good to have a saddle that you can pull up on the sides. I never really found
that "magic" angle until I went 2-bolt. Avocet and JPR made 2-bolt posts that had bolt heads
that were accessed from below but they're not as strong as Campy
discard the Campy wrench, the Dia-compe offset brake wrench is 12 point as opposed
to 6. it's also good to have a saddle that you can pull up on the sides. I never really found
that "magic" angle until I went 2-bolt. Avocet and JPR made 2-bolt posts that had bolt heads
that were accessed from below but they're not as strong as Campy
#79
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 26,322
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 142 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5556 Post(s)
Liked 3,229 Times
in
1,887 Posts
Chain lube should have its own section in the Forums so that it can be mostly ignored.
Finally disc brakes...and, for that matter, linear brakes. People have had been complaining about brakes since they were invented. Some are truly bad...spoon brakes, linkage brakes, coaster brakes, etc... but others are only poorly set up and/or people don’t understand how to use their brakes. People think that braking is just pulling a lever but it’s a whole lot more than that. Weight shifts will go a long way towards making brakes more effective.
I have cantilever, dual pivot side pulls, discs, and disc front with linear rear. I frankly don’t notice any difference between any one of them. There isn’t one that works better than the others in my experience. They all stop me when and where I need the to stop whether that is doing 50 mph on a rainy road off the top of the Smokey Mountains with a touring load (cantilever) or dropping 2000 feet over 4 miles on a road that is more rock than road (disc/linear) with a similar touring load.
__________________
Stuart Black
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Days of Wineless Roads. Bed and Breakfasting along the KATY
Twisting Down the Alley. Misadventures in tornado alley.
Stuart Black
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Days of Wineless Roads. Bed and Breakfasting along the KATY
Twisting Down the Alley. Misadventures in tornado alley.
Likes For cyccommute:
#80
saddle angle optimizer
Riser stems
Quill pedals and toe clips
Brooks saddles
Velo Orange anything
Bridgestone xo-1
Barcons.
wow, y'all really know how to stick it to a guy.

Quill pedals and toe clips
Brooks saddles
Velo Orange anything
Bridgestone xo-1
Barcons.
wow, y'all really know how to stick it to a guy.



Likes For hazetguy:
#81
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 8,876
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 127 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1432 Post(s)
Liked 1,056 Times
in
732 Posts
Looked a little flimsy to my eye, and the brakes often felt flimsy. The freehub of that era often suffered partial failure of the FH body attachment in a non-critical way thankfully (made axle bearing adjustment into a tedious, iterative process involving multiple wheel installations).
But now I kind of like those parts, the crank is lightweight elegance and the rear derailer works ok up to six speeds with say 13-28t ratios. The whole gruppo was commendably light at a cheap enough price to find it's way onto a Ross "Professional" something or other and onto many an SR Semi-Pro. The Semi-Pro in total nearly mimicked a pro bike albeit a 24lb one (can't make myself sell mine).
A set of salmon-and-black Kool-Stop "MTB" pads bring the brakes around and eliminate the squishy feel.
Beware there was an OEM version Arabesque crankset, as shown below, having a swaged spider.

#82
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 8,230
Mentioned: 67 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2901 Post(s)
Liked 2,126 Times
in
1,306 Posts
Shimano 600 Arabesque. Yeah, it looks pretty with all those squiggly etchings... But the crank, shifters, RD, levers and brakes are poop... none of it really shifts or brakes well. I like the hubs well enough.
KMC Chains- I honestly don't remember what I didn't like- I don't even know if I still have it... but I bought a SRAM to replace it.
Shimano L600 "fingertip control" bar end shifters. Neat concept... but once you use the Suntour versions- they're nicer.
KMC Chains- I honestly don't remember what I didn't like- I don't even know if I still have it... but I bought a SRAM to replace it.
Shimano L600 "fingertip control" bar end shifters. Neat concept... but once you use the Suntour versions- they're nicer.
#83
Master Parts Rearranger
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portlandia's Kuiper Belt, OR
Posts: 4,381
Bikes: 1989 Schwinn Paramount OS - 1982 Trek 720 - 1982 Trek 715 - 1981 Trek 710 - 1985 Trek 620 - 1985 Schwinn Voyageur SP - 1989 Cannondale SR - 2006 Orbea Onix - 2009 Specialized Tricross
Mentioned: 214 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1434 Post(s)
Liked 1,627 Times
in
819 Posts
As a few others have said, naming something was a bit difficult. I wasn't going list something that I didn't have experience in (like NR/SR shifting/braking, or tubulars), and I didn't want to comment on modern components/trends as this is the C&V section. If I had to say for modern, then yeah, disc brakes as I've had some (Ultegra level, hydraulic) and the front fork feel under braking was unpleasant, the fork was way too stiff (even with 28s), it's a decidedly heavier setup, and the cost vs. convenience ratio was way off. Pads contaminate very quickly and bedding in new pads takes time, in addition to the expense of new pads. Braking was really no better than a good dual-pivot caliper. Finicky and noisy, easily. Kudos to those who have had much better luck/experience with them. Other than running them on a MTB, I will gladly pass on them for road/tour duty.
Likes For RiddleOfSteel:
#84
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Saratoga, CA
Posts: 621
Bikes: 1981 Bianchi Specialissim, 1976 Colnago Super. 1971 Bob Jackson. 2012 Kestrel 4000. 2012 Willier. 2016 Fuji Cross 1.1
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 209 Post(s)
Liked 647 Times
in
276 Posts
(1) Grease both bolts. (2) Leave rear bolt loose; tighten front bolt (with special tool or just fingers) until saddle looks level when you press down on it at the rear. (3) Tighten rear bolt. (4) Repeat 2 and 3 (usually takes two or three tries) until saddle is at correct angle and secure.
I'll take a 2-bolt Campy seatpost over any 1-bolt seatpost I've ever encountered.
I'll take a 2-bolt Campy seatpost over any 1-bolt seatpost I've ever encountered.
The story of my frustrations: I bought a Gitane Grand Tourisme a few weeks ago. This was my first bike with the two bolt post. It was set up a as a "townie" with a big cushy seat. So I threw on an old Titanium Flite road seat I had lying around with very little space under the seat. It was almost impossible to get at the bolts, let alone tighten, I found the Campy seatpost tool on Criag's list and shouted "Eureka - the savior to my problems". Wrong!
I just received an Ideale 90 this week and went out to Home Depot this morning to get the suggested wrench. Worked like a charm. Frustration eliminated.
Now onto French vs. Italian vs. English freewheel challenges.
There is a lot of tricks to learn on vintage bikes. Yet again, I'm learning a lot from the posts here.
Mike
Likes For SwimmerMike:
#85
Extraordinary Magnitude
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waukesha WI
Posts: 13,391
Bikes: 1978 Trek TX700; 1978/79 Trek 736; 1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP; 1985 Trek 620; 1985 Trek 720; 1986 Trek 400 Elance; 1987 Schwinn High Sierra; 1990 Miyata 1000LT
Mentioned: 83 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2504 Post(s)
Liked 1,398 Times
in
790 Posts
This is why everything is so subjective. If a person likes feedback, they'll like the Suntours..............because they feel like driving an old farm tractor! Noisy, lots of resistance, rachety, etc. The L-600s though, like cruising in a old Caddy or Lincoln. No feedback at all. You have to trust that they work. You think it and it happens. Nothing more. That's what I like. I must be the only one.
I dig the Simplex Retrofrictions- I like that smooth clutched action, and think the L600s are much more brutish in comparison to either the Retrofrictions or any Suntour "Power" ratcheting shifter. Perhaps the L600s were built to a certain standard for derailleurs of the time. I was using it with an M900 XTR- and I just find it has a tendency to go back to it's given starting point.
__________________
*Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Person Of The Year" Award*
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Likes For The Golden Boy:
#86
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 5,485
Bikes: many
Mentioned: 60 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1268 Post(s)
Liked 1,067 Times
in
592 Posts
I love my Nitto Noodle bars, Grand Bois Maes Parallel bars and Campy two bolt seatposts. I've got a pair of Monoplaner brakes (and levers with the QR) but have yet to try them. They are hanging off the Serotta I'm building up, so we shall see...
__________________
Contact me about helping Doug Fattic's Ukraine Bicycle Project
Contact me about helping Doug Fattic's Ukraine Bicycle Project
#87
Senior Member
#88
Passista
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,467
Bikes: 1998 Pinarello Asolo, 1992 KHS Montaña pro, 1980 Raleigh DL-1, IGH Hybrid, IGH Utility
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 823 Post(s)
Liked 597 Times
in
329 Posts
The Campagnolo 2-bolt is a great design IMO. When it came out saddles had more more space for adjusting.
#89
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 11,839
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 120 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4143 Post(s)
Liked 3,131 Times
in
2,033 Posts
FYI. It used to be a fairly commonly held view that galvanized spokes were superior and stainless spokes were for dandies or something. Believe it or not!
There weren't stainless cables in the old days, but the nice thing about galvanized cables it that it was easy to solder the ends. Cleaner look than cable ends.
There weren't stainless cables in the old days, but the nice thing about galvanized cables it that it was easy to solder the ends. Cleaner look than cable ends.
Ben
#91
Cheerfully low end
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,711
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 549 Post(s)
Liked 892 Times
in
564 Posts
I raced and built all my own wheels in the '70s. The popular SS Robegel spokes were beautiful crap. I built one Robergel SS wheel. A spoke head popper. I built alll the rest of my wheels with 15-17 Robergel Sports, the cheap, ugly zinc spokes. Spoke weight roughly that of a DT Revolution wheel and they held up very well (except 3 spokes per set always broke. Replace those three and the spokes outlasted the rims.) I never heard those success stories with SS. Not until Wheelsmith, DT and others came into the picture with far better stainless.
Ben
Ben
I will say I’ve put a lot of miles on those wheels, never broke a spoke and they still spin great. Eventually replaced the Fiamme rims with Mavic via rim transfer. Don’t really ride tubulars on the trails though so I’ve been riding clinchers in recent years.
Otto
#93
Veteran, Pacifist
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Seattle area
Posts: 12,544
Bikes: Bikes??? Thought this was social media?!?
Mentioned: 277 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3496 Post(s)
Liked 3,690 Times
in
1,780 Posts
Don't think this has been mentioned
I HATE all those "components" people attach to their handlebars that aren't brake levers.
You know - the bells and whistles and cameras and Garmins and mobile phones and flashy lights and gaudy mirrors.
I HATE all those "components" people attach to their handlebars that aren't brake levers.
You know - the bells and whistles and cameras and Garmins and mobile phones and flashy lights and gaudy mirrors.
#94
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 16,528
Mentioned: 449 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3447 Post(s)
Liked 5,358 Times
in
2,192 Posts
Likes For nlerner:
#95
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 11,839
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 120 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4143 Post(s)
Liked 3,131 Times
in
2,033 Posts
The Component Everyone Loves Except Me
I just realized what that component is. (In terms of this thread - I've known it for decades.)
Shimano brifters. Any model, any year, any number of cogs and chainrings. They will never be on a ride of mine, Not in this lifetime.
Why? Very simple. I realized many years ago riding in the drops that putting my index or middle finger firmly on the brake lever steadied the handlebars and made reaching for shifters and water bottles on poor roads riding low trail, quick steering racing machines a breeze. But doing that and changing gears or chainrings without thinking? Could be really bad!
When I ordered my ti custom, I had it built for DT shifters (though the builder put on threaded stops at the head tube in case I change my mind). I went out and bought 9-speed Campy wheels and cassettes just so if I ever went brifter it would be brifters that couldn't sucker me into a completely preventable crash.
Ben
Shimano brifters. Any model, any year, any number of cogs and chainrings. They will never be on a ride of mine, Not in this lifetime.
Why? Very simple. I realized many years ago riding in the drops that putting my index or middle finger firmly on the brake lever steadied the handlebars and made reaching for shifters and water bottles on poor roads riding low trail, quick steering racing machines a breeze. But doing that and changing gears or chainrings without thinking? Could be really bad!
When I ordered my ti custom, I had it built for DT shifters (though the builder put on threaded stops at the head tube in case I change my mind). I went out and bought 9-speed Campy wheels and cassettes just so if I ever went brifter it would be brifters that couldn't sucker me into a completely preventable crash.
Ben
#96
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 7,370
Bikes: Old school lightweights
Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3168 Post(s)
Liked 4,741 Times
in
2,467 Posts
If it could play an 8-track of Alice's Restaurant on continuous loop, @Wildwood would be all over it.

Likes For SurferRosa:
#97
Master Parts Rearranger
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portlandia's Kuiper Belt, OR
Posts: 4,381
Bikes: 1989 Schwinn Paramount OS - 1982 Trek 720 - 1982 Trek 715 - 1981 Trek 710 - 1985 Trek 620 - 1985 Schwinn Voyageur SP - 1989 Cannondale SR - 2006 Orbea Onix - 2009 Specialized Tricross
Mentioned: 214 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1434 Post(s)
Liked 1,627 Times
in
819 Posts
Gonna add another one, as an owner of two pairs of them, who built both of them ("It's not you, baby, it's me...."): H+Son TB14s.
Am I keeping the dark grey anodized ones currently laced to Superbe Pro hubs, fitted with Veloflex Master 23mm tires? YES. They are gorgeous and built well (TB14s do build very well).
The trouble? Really harsh road vibration and impact transfer/feel. 505g a rim--23mm external width (good), sturdy construction (good), confident cornering (good), but characteristics are characteristics, and it takes a 35mm (or larger) tire to quell the harshness and give a more "normal" feel (a la Mavic MA2 or Open Pro, just to name two obvious examples). I had super light Vuelta Corsa Lite wheels that also exhibited this harshness, though not to the degree--likely due to the rims simply weighing less (less mass to calm). The older Vittoria Open Corsa tires also helped. They help everything.
If they don't bother you, or you aren't too worried about road feel for one or numerous reasons (like, you're running huge tires and don't ride crummy roads), please go ahead--there is truly much to like. I just have to (reluctantly) admit I don't like their ride quality give my sensitivities and riding style. Anybody have a spare, polished, 32-hole MA2?
Am I keeping the dark grey anodized ones currently laced to Superbe Pro hubs, fitted with Veloflex Master 23mm tires? YES. They are gorgeous and built well (TB14s do build very well).
The trouble? Really harsh road vibration and impact transfer/feel. 505g a rim--23mm external width (good), sturdy construction (good), confident cornering (good), but characteristics are characteristics, and it takes a 35mm (or larger) tire to quell the harshness and give a more "normal" feel (a la Mavic MA2 or Open Pro, just to name two obvious examples). I had super light Vuelta Corsa Lite wheels that also exhibited this harshness, though not to the degree--likely due to the rims simply weighing less (less mass to calm). The older Vittoria Open Corsa tires also helped. They help everything.

If they don't bother you, or you aren't too worried about road feel for one or numerous reasons (like, you're running huge tires and don't ride crummy roads), please go ahead--there is truly much to like. I just have to (reluctantly) admit I don't like their ride quality give my sensitivities and riding style. Anybody have a spare, polished, 32-hole MA2?
#98
Veteran, Pacifist
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Seattle area
Posts: 12,544
Bikes: Bikes??? Thought this was social media?!?
Mentioned: 277 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3496 Post(s)
Liked 3,690 Times
in
1,780 Posts
If it could play an 8-track of Alice's Restaurant on continuous loop, @Wildwood would be all over it. 

You just walk right in, it's around the back
just 1/2 a mile from the RR track.
you can get anything you want
at Alice's restaurant
(excepting Alice)
And now In 3 part harmony...
Son, have ya ever been convicted of a crime?
VN veteran, pacifist, resister.
Last edited by Wildwood; 08-22-20 at 10:45 PM.
Likes For Wildwood:
#99
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 7,370
Bikes: Old school lightweights
Mentioned: 84 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3168 Post(s)
Liked 4,741 Times
in
2,467 Posts
#100
Master Parts Rearranger
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portlandia's Kuiper Belt, OR
Posts: 4,381
Bikes: 1989 Schwinn Paramount OS - 1982 Trek 720 - 1982 Trek 715 - 1981 Trek 710 - 1985 Trek 620 - 1985 Schwinn Voyageur SP - 1989 Cannondale SR - 2006 Orbea Onix - 2009 Specialized Tricross
Mentioned: 214 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1434 Post(s)
Liked 1,627 Times
in
819 Posts

Likes For RiddleOfSteel: