kingsting

Thumb shifters - especially black Suntour XC Pro. Simple, lightweight, and so pretty...

JohnDThompson 

Toeclips and slotted cleats.

Velo Mule

Older tire sizes. Let's start with 26" x 1-3/8" These were fairly common in the 70's mostly on three speed bikes, there were some derailleur bikes that used this size too. The size is still far from dead. There are lots of good tires out there and although rim choices are not as good as other sizes, the Sun CR18 is an excellent rim that is available in different hole number and finishes. I think it might even be available with and without an eyelet. Not only is this a good replacement for existing 26" x 1-3/8" bikes, it is also suitable for 27" bikes. 1 - 3/8" or 35mm is a good all around width for a tire, which is why it became so popular in the first place for bikes that were intended to be ridden comfortably and not needing to look like you were ready for the Tour de France. 26" x 1 - 1/2" tires are available, but there are limited choices in this size.

Then there is 27" tires. These were the performance tires from the 60's to the mid 80's. There are good tires available. I see lots of advice to change wheels to 700C to gain access to better tires. As far as I am concerned there is no problem with 27" tires. If the bike came with them, stick with them.

70sSanO

I still run toe clips and straps, but the cleats are gone. Use a touring shoe the a rubber sole.

John

sheddle

I'd mention the Atlus M310 but I think people secretly like that one. Slap it on a beater commuter and never worry about it again.

Concor saddles. I work better with a convex shape, what can I say.

sheddle

Oh yeah, Campagnolo shifters. Maybe I'd change my mind if I used Simplex ones and not Suntour ratchet shifters, but I've never once went "dang, I wish moving these shift levers was easier" with the classic Campy downtubes.

scarlson 

Don't worry, I'm still using toe clips on half my bikes so those Avocet shoes you sold me still get regular action! They offer enough "float" combined with lateral stability on most pedals to work fine with my loose joints.

dddd

Might be cool with the right setup, but these actually won't index properly on a 7s shifter and cassette because of the thicker 2-3 position spacer intended to make the shifting toward smallest sprockets more robust as the cables age and contaminate, and as the return spring perhaps loses it's authority over the matter.

But the Rapid Rise system post-dated any higher-end 7s bikes, so there's that. Personally I haven't given it such a thorough test myself.

dddd

Might be cool with the right setup, but these actually won't index properly on a 7s shifter and cassette because of the thicker 2-3 position spacer intended to make the shifting toward smallest sprockets more robust as the cables age and contaminate, and as the return spring perhaps loses it's authority over the matter.

But the Rapid Rise system post-dated any higher-end 7s bikes, so there's that. Personally I haven't given it such a thorough test myself.

What REALLY sucked from that same era were the Dual-Control mtb levers, Oh man, WHAT were they thinking (and did anybody test-ride these things first?)?
Heh, now I'm waiting in anticipation of some "weirdo" to admit that they like them! All I remember is that the last time I serviced any such bikes that the lower little lever had gone missing, now it sucked even worse (though could still be shifted in both directions).

jeirvine 

Agreed. They shift great up to 26t, and are fine for 28t with the right setup. I swapped one out for a short cage 1st Gen Cyclone a while back, and swapped it right back after a ride.

70sSanO

I originally stumbled on them for my wife’s mountain bike because she was always shifting the wrong way. I also put one on her Claris 8 speed road bike.

I like them on my mountain bikes because I can dump the cassette quicker, if I have to, with the trigger than thumbing down. Running 7 and 8 speed cassettes spaced as 8 with 8 speed shifters. Just finished adding a 40t to one bike 13-40 with a Road Link. However, I would be hesitant to hard shift into the 40t.

I’ve not had an issue with them. I understand the initial XTR952 did not work well. I’ve setup Deore 580, XT 760, and XTR 960. The 760’s are the best of the bunch for me.

I don’t use the dual control shifters, just normal triggers.

Most people really hate them with a passion, but that’s fine as I can find them pretty easily even now.

John

Drillium Dude

I'm really glad those shoes are working out for you! I pull out my way-too-small pair and look 'em over when I'm feeling nostalgic

DD

Drillium Dude

Although I gave it a chance to change my mind throughout the summer, I removed mine recently, too! When I get back from AZ I will rebuild the Casati with Campy SR again like it was meant to be

DD

Andy_K 

Hear, hear!!

These things have one of the worst designs of all time. I'm picturing a couple of Campy engineers brainstorming over lunch -- "A two bolt adjustment would allow you to perfectly fine tune the saddle level." "Yes, but wouldn't it be ugly?" "Hmmm.... What if we put the bolts on top of the post so they were completely hidden inside the saddle?" Then a few months later when the first production run completed.... "What if we manufactured a new wrench with a dog leg in it so that you could tighten the bolts after installing the saddle?" Not one of their better inventions.

I've got them on eight bikes, plus two or three more in the parts pile.

ShannonM

I think you've got the design review meeting right... plus a lot of gesticulating and wine. My biggest beef is that, having made the decision to sacrifice function on the altar of aesthetics, (a very Campagnolo thing to do, and one which I often admire,) the actual seatpost looks boring. To my eye, it's nowhere near pretty enough to justify how much of a pain it is to work with.

--Shannon

squirtdad

Friction Thumb shifters...... brilliant for the right appliction townie type bike or replacing twistgrip shifters

seedsbelize 

Threadless stems belong in the other thread

seedsbelize 

Rhode Gear brake lever mount mirror
Top normal fd. Suntour Spirt in particular

Reynolds 

Spoke reflectors (on non-vintage urban/utility bikes only)

ctmullins 

My SunTour Power Ratchet stem shifters.

RiddleOfSteel

23mm tires.
52/42 or 53/39 standard road gearing (130/135/144mm BCDs).
Suntour Superbe Tech rear derailleurs.
Aluminum forks.
..
...
....
.....Quill stem conversions.

/ducks

Smokinapankake

Another RapidRise lover here. My 952 XTR works flawlessly, as do my LX and XT versions. It makes more sense to me and is just as intuitive as regular derailleurs, but I too use them with regular trigger shifters. They don’t work so well with thumb shifters, however...

JaccoW

Drum brakes.

I love how low-maintenance they are and they can look downright elegant. For anyone complaining about stopping power; try them with modern compressionless brake housing and see how much of a difference it makes.
And in proper sizes (90mm) they are one of the most maintenance free options after fixed gear and single speed coaster brakes. Well beyond disc brakes.

seedsbelize 

I still rude 23 mm tires too.

70sSanO

Specialized Elite Touring shoes here.

John