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Cleaning up progress on my $10 1984 Schwinn World Sport
Well I’ve been cleaning up some of the parts on my $10 find and the crankset is looking pretty shiny. I’m still waiting for my 44 piece toolkit to arrive that I bought off EBay so I can’t take the chain off yet till I get the tool. I’ll buy a brand new chain and I’m wondering now how will I know if the rear and front derailleurs are in good working condition? My bike repair stand is also on its way to me as well.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...87d03409e.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f66ec0f00.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7a1002606.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2067e1ea3.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bb63916bf.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6ad9c729c.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b7c58d3f5.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...634b637c4.jpeg |
The chain is not rusty and by the looks of the chainrings, it has not been used much. Remove it, let it soak in a solvent overnight and clean it with a scrub brush, it should last a few years depending on how much use and how well you maintain it, i.e. keeping it clean and lubricated which you would have to do with any chain.
Or, scrub it with soap and water, rinse well, let dry in the sun and then lubricate it. |
My guess is the derailleurs are fine and just need to be taken apart and cleaned. Use a solvent and wire brush to remove the rust
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Good job on the cleaning. It looks great. I am agreeing with branko_76 that the chain doesn't look too bad. I bought a chain checking tool recently, that is kind of handy not having to guess at how worn the chain is.
I like Oz Cycling chain maintenance videos and techniques. Even if you don't follow what he does, it is helpful. |
I am of the train of thought that the 84 and later Schwinn World Sport is a bike that punches well above it's pay grade. (that's a dumb mixed metaphor)
You've got a CrMo main frame with hi-ten stays and fork. The bike rides REALLY nicely. The Suntour AR stuff functions as well as any Suntour stuff does, it only gets more fancy looking. You've got a kickstand plate- how cool is that! I'd be tempted to get some Cyclone derailleurs and some fancy band-on shifters and dolly that bike up!!! |
Originally Posted by The Golden Boy
(Post 21674289)
I am of the train of thought that the 84 and later Schwinn World Sport is a bike that punches well above it's pay grade. (that's a dumb mixed metaphor)
You've got a CrMo main frame with hi-ten stays and fork. The bike rides REALLY nicely. The Suntour AR stuff functions as well as any Suntour stuff does, it only gets more fancy looking. You've got a kickstand plate- how cool is that! I'd be tempted to get some Cyclone derailleurs and some fancy band-on shifters and dolly that bike up!!! |
Originally Posted by tpadul
(Post 21674307)
Thanks!!! So I'll look up the Cyclone derailleurs and please tell me what "band-on shifters" are? Is that the brand name? Band-on? And I am going to get rid of the drop handlebars and replace them with some upright handlebars like the Tourist kind, what kind of brake levers should I get? Can I still use the same Dia-Compe brake levers with upright handlebars? My back really hates riding in the position with the drop handlebars.
These were drop bar bakes: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4bff7973ba.jpg |
Originally Posted by tpadul
(Post 21674307)
Thanks!!! So I'll look up the Cyclone derailleurs and please tell me what "band-on shifters" are? Is that the brand name? Band-on? And I am going to get rid of the drop handlebars and replace them with some upright handlebars like the Tourist kind, what kind of brake levers should I get? Can I still use the same Dia-Compe brake levers with upright handlebars? My back really hates riding in the position with the drop handlebars.
First- if you don't like the drop handlebars- address that first. So to me, that would mean bars and brake levers... you can keep the stem mount shifters until you decide you like the ride. Bars like this would be pretty slick- if you can get them for around $20- score- and you get the grips... https://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Schwin...IAAOSwhw9fA9yX I've got nothing to do with the auction or seller- And you can poke around for other similar bars. Another thing- I like those Schwinn grips- I had a couple bikes that I was making upright bars work on- and those 1950s style Schwinn grips were my favorite of the bunch- I think I still have a set in the basement. "just in case." Brake levers... These guys look like they'd fill the spot pretty good: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-198...MAAOSwVFZfTb5i Again, no affiliation with the seller or auction. The 'band on' shifters I was referring to were shifters attached to a band clamp that would attach to your downtube- |
Originally Posted by Shp4man
(Post 21674365)
It is possible to modify drop bar brakes to work on a upright bar. You need a big Cresent wrench or similar with a hole in the end to use as a lever, and carefully bend the levers.
These were drop bar bakes: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4bff7973ba.jpg |
Originally Posted by tpadul
(Post 21674383)
Thank you!! That looks so awesome!! Those are the kind of handlebars I want!!!
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You could probably find an inexpensive Sugino or SR crankset with aluminum rings and rid the old steel set.
Suntour ratcheting shifters work better than most anything friction and look appropriate on a bike like this. I saw some in the bin at my lbs for under $10. Check with your co-op. I’m wondering now how will I know if the rear and front derailleurs are in good working condition? |
Wald makes some nice inexpensive touring bars I have used on conversions just make sure your current stem clamp diameter and the bars are compatible https://cambriabike.com/products/wal...gaArZ8EALw_wcB
And Velo orange has some inexpensive brake levers to work on this type of barshttps://velo-orange.com/collections/...-brakes-levers If you have a Bike Co-op near you they can also be a source of this type of component for not a ton of $$ |
Soak the rusty chrome pieces like that front derailleur in white vinegar for a few hours, maybe 4 to 6 but don't leave them in the vinegar too long as it can cause the plating to peel more and will attack any aluminum pieces. A short soak won't effect the aluminum though. Most of the rust will wipe right off after about a 4 hour soak. To get what doesn't come off the first time you can then try soaking them a little longer or hit the remaining rust with #0000 steel wool soaked with WD-40, I prefer the steel wool and WD. Any areas where the plating is gone or heavily pitted can be coated with clear finger nail polish to protect them from moisture.
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa
(Post 21674542)
You could probably find an inexpensive Sugino or SR crankset with aluminum rings and rid the old steel set.
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Your making good progress.
Lots of good tips on the thread. Regarding the chain...I've had good luck using KMC 6,7,8 speed chains with the removable quick link. I get them for about 12 to 14 bucks. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9e0080b805.jpg It sure makes it easier when cleaning chain, adjusting chain length or changing derailers. I've also been pleased with these upright handlebars for about 35 bucks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUNLITE-NORT...IAAOSwK7palz-V https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4f6ec1f47e.jpg |
Originally Posted by Shp4man
(Post 21674365)
It is possible to modify drop bar brakes to work on a upright bar. You need a big Cresent wrench or similar with a hole in the end to use as a lever, and carefully bend the levers.
These were drop bar bakes: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4bff7973ba.jpg Thats very innovative! For a budget build that's will save the cost of new levers. I probably have 7 or 8 sets of similar levers in parts bin. |
Worked more on the clean up this long weekend and removed all the cables and tossed them. Ran into a problem trying to remove the handlebars as the bolt was stripped so I did take the frame into the LBS and they are removing it for me. They also removed the freewheel for me from the rear wheel.
so I spent the weekend soaking parts and degreasing them and cleaned up the wheels. Found cheap Bell 27 tubes at Walmart for $4.97 that will fit the 27 x 1 1/4 tires, ordered new tires online today. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9b3bada7f.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1daeda373.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ca498116d.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6d0aecf82.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c7bc431d3.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7580c529b.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c7c160fdf.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...70fd3d472.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0a1c90ee1.jpeg Took apart the stem shifters and need some grease before I put those back together. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f44f17895.jpeg I think I found a spray paint match for the spots I want to touch up. Unfortunately the Goof Off heavy duty I was using to get the caked on Adhesive off the frame stripped away the paint In those spots |
Without a chain checker tool, you can still _measure_ the chain for wear. Hold the chain tight and measure center-to-center over 24 pins (12 full links). On a new chain, that last pin will measure to exactly 12". If your chain measures more than 1/16" beyond the 12" mark over that 12-fulll-link span, it's worn and should be replaced.
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Originally Posted by tpadul
(Post 21684190)
Worked more on the clean up this long weekend and removed all the cables and tossed them. Ran into a problem trying to remove the handlebars as the bolt was stripped so I did take the frame into the LBS and they are removing it for me. They also removed the freewheel for me from the rear wheel.
so I spent the weekend soaking parts and degreasing them and cleaned up the wheels. Found cheap Bell 27 tubes at Walmart for $4.97 that will fit the 27 x 1 1/4 tires, ordered new tires online today. Took apart the stem shifters and need some grease before I put those back together. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f44f17895.jpeg I think I found a spray paint match for the spots I want to touch up. Unfortunately the Goof Off heavy duty I was using to get the caked on Adhesive off the frame stripped away the paint In those spots I would try an auto parts store a buy the premixed touch-up paint they have...I am certain that you will find a metallic paint that will suit your purposes better than the nonmetallic blue from Krylon....auto touchup in my estimation is also a better choice quality-wise than regular rattle can stuff from the big box stores. Krylon used to be better before the changes made to make it more E.F. Looking good. GL, Ben |
Originally Posted by xiaoman1
(Post 21684435)
OP,
I would try an auto parts store a buy the premixed touch-up paint they have...I am certain that you will find a metallic paint that will suit your purposes better than the nonmetallic blue from Krylon....auto touchup in my estimation is also a better choice quality-wise than regular rattle can stuff from the big box stores. Krylon used to be better before the changes made to make it more E.F. Looking good. GL, Ben |
That Schwinn is getting some love! I like to put a bit of 3 in 1 lube on the pivot points (and springs) on the derailleurs and brakes after the clean up. I have dribbled lube into the FW which is better than nothing but the more I read and see on the forum the more I think the FW should either get replaced - what I normally do, or get taken apart and cleaned and lubed inside and reassembled. I leave that up to the experts like pastorbobnlnh (https://www.freewheelspa.com/) RJ the bike guy does have a
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Well the LBS helped me with the stripped fork bolt and we were able to get the handlebars and the fork and stem off the bike, I did go to an auto parts store in town that does custom paint matches for cars and I found a metallic blue color that matches the bike.
my cruiser handlebars have arrived and my new tires as well. Decided to get the cool looking Blue tires to match the frame. I hope to spend some time this weekend working on getting the rust spots cleaned up on the frame. Right now it’s a box of parts in a corner of the house but little by little it is coming together. I want a more comfortable vintage type cruiser saddle instead of the one it has now so I’ve been looking at the vintage Mesinger Schwinn Saddles with the “S” on them. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b64f20fa2.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...aec000d15.jpeg Top color is the one that matches the current color. Took the frame to the Auto parts store and took the sample card outside in the natural light to compare with the frame. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8e4b69354.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e870caf5c.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b212bab8e.jpeg |
Originally Posted by tpadul
(Post 21697489)
The LBS helped me with the stripped fork bolt and we were able to get the handlebars and the fork and stem off the bike.
We think you'd like gumwall tires here. :thumb: |
It's been tough finding decent alloy riser bars on line lately. I recently ordered three pairs of these & I'm satisfied with the size & finish. But, I just checked ebay wheelandsprocket(215,634) & they're sold out again. Too bad. They were a great deal at around $22 each.
Kalloy AI092 Tourist Bar 70mm Rise 25.4x580mm Silver Here's how they look on an upright conversion bike: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...009e4ba3a4.jpg |
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