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How to maximize eBay profit on a PX-10?

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How to maximize eBay profit on a PX-10?

Old 10-08-20, 09:12 PM
  #26  
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...400 bucks is not a big ask for a PX-10 with Nervex lugs here in NorCal on the local CL. Even one that needs some work.
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Old 10-08-20, 09:35 PM
  #27  
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Perhaps if you cut into a bespoke wind chime?
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Old 10-08-20, 09:42 PM
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If I were near by I bet I could straighten it, but I'm a gambling man. If you're in Arizona, I bet the San Diego market would give you top dollar.

I'd definitely go ahead and clean it. If those wheels straightened up you'd be in good shape.
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Old 10-08-20, 09:48 PM
  #29  
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Curious though to the PX 10 experts, do people prefer the simplex derailleur to a replacement? Shifters too?
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Old 10-08-20, 10:13 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by mechanicmatt
If I were near by I bet I could straighten it, but I'm a gambling man. If you're in Arizona, I bet the San Diego market would give you top dollar.

I'd definitely go ahead and clean it. If those wheels straightened up you'd be in good shape.
Youre right. Wheel fixiní isnít my forte but I have a friend nearby who can do it no problem.

Last edited by polymorphself; 10-09-20 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 10-08-20, 10:24 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by mechanicmatt
Curious though to the PX 10 experts, do people prefer the simplex derailleur to a replacement? Shifters too?
...those rear Simplex derailleurs are not problematic, IME. The front ones never worked well, but were adequate until they cracked at the band clamp, which almost all of them do eventually. You can't get a huge range with the Simplex, but it's comparable to the other short cage derailleurs of the time in terms of capacity. I try to stay under 24 teeth for the rear cogs with the ones I still run. I have some reserve rear memchs I have picked up over the years for parts and replacements, but I've never had one actually break, like the front ones.

I'm not an all original type guy, I just ride what seems to work for me. I've never felt the need to modify a rear Simplex dropout to take a Campy or other mechanism. But it's not out of some fetish for the original stuff. I do routinely replace the bar and stem on the ones I keep and ride. And I think I've re-tapped all of them so I can use pedals that better fit my wide feet.

I'm pretty sure that is a replacement stem and bar, which look pretty solid.

Last edited by 3alarmer; 10-08-20 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 10-08-20, 10:36 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer
I'm pretty sure that is a replacement stem and bar, which look pretty solid.
I really need to actually pull up a 1972 catalogue and look all of this over.
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Old 10-09-20, 12:22 AM
  #33  
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https://bikeboompeugeot.com/Master%2...0Catalogue.htm
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Old 10-09-20, 07:13 AM
  #34  
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It is fun to sell a bike like that to someone who will likely ride it and enjoy it. With that in mind, fix it and price it such that it won't be worthwhile for someone else to part it out. I let my crashed, straightened, painted PX-10 go to a guy who really only wanted the crankset. I felt terrible.
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Old 10-09-20, 07:40 AM
  #35  
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Do NOT use steel wool on the chrome as was suggested. It is clear coated and you'll just scratch the clear coat. Polish it with the same polish you use on the white paint.
I would greatly prefer an original uncracked FD to any replacement. They work amazingly smooth on the original 52/45 rings, and the aluminum clamp is really nice looking.
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Old 10-09-20, 09:22 AM
  #36  
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What a nice bike. Rarely see one with a frame in that condition. When was the last time you saw a PX-10 with the Reynolds seat tube decal that intact?
It would be a shame to part that out, IMO. I'm kind of partial as I bought one just like this new in '72. That Brooks Pro if not all dried out and cracked, is a gem too.
Bars and stem definitely replaced, but a nice upgrade. Bars look like maybe Cinelli. Or 3TTT. Half hoods look in decent shape. That bike didn't get a whole lot of use, it looks, and was well cared for.
Dry Arizona air definitely helped.
Why not sell it here? You are a dues paying member.

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Old 10-09-20, 09:52 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by polymorphself
Youre right. Wheel Dixoní isnít my forte but I have a friend nearby who can do it no problem.
Yeah that would take out any fees too and get you the most you probably can get. I have had equal luck with Facebook marketplace and Craigslist here in Chattanooga as of late.
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Old 10-09-20, 10:09 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by rootboy
Why not sell it here? You are a dues paying member.
Normally I would, and I still may. Itís just been awhile since Iíve had anything pretty sought after to sell and was thinking itís a good time to try my hand at eBay and see if I can net a higher amount than usual. This thread has:

A) Begun to steer me away from eBay
B) Got me considering keeping and restoring the damned thing for myself

Anybody know how this model may fair with either a small saddlebag (carradice barley) loaded up or a small rando bag in the front? I tend carry stuff often for various reasons. More relaxed geometry seems like an ok candidate here. Iíve read some worries about serious shimmy on these with a rear load.

Last edited by polymorphself; 10-09-20 at 10:38 AM.
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Old 10-09-20, 11:36 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by MB33
Do NOT use steel wool on the chrome as was suggested. It is clear coated and you'll just scratch the clear coat. Polish it with the same polish you use on the white paint.
I would greatly prefer an original uncracked FD to any replacement. They work amazingly smooth on the original 52/45 rings, and the aluminum clamp is really nice looking.
Editing because my original comment might come off snarky.

I can't see anywhere above where anyone suggested using steel wool, especially not on the frame. I see I suggested using ultrafine (0000) bronze wool on the rusty chrome spots (i.e. FD cage), which is night and day a different product. Bronze wool is lightyears more gentle than steel wool, it's as soft if not softer than some automotive polishing compounds. However, with how fine 0000 bronze wool is, used intelligently, won't impact the the clearcoat any more than a compound will. I've used it several times to feather out defects in clearcoat on numerous occasions.
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Old 10-09-20, 11:39 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by mechanicmatt
Curious though to the PX 10 experts, do people prefer the simplex derailleur to a replacement? Shifters too?
Honestly? If the original are in good shape and all the correct other bits are there (Delrin guide, Crit levers, etc.) I'll leave them. In cases where the FD clamp and RD housing are cracked or the Delrin is clearly dry and shot, I'm usually "upgrading" to Huret, preferably their titanium bits.
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Old 10-09-20, 11:50 AM
  #41  
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put the pedals back on, it might have French threaded pedals anyway. Right now it is ALMOST a bike.
(my pet peeve- no pedals allowable with Mod bikes as so many pedal options... This is Vintage- should have pedals)
Untape the bars and raise the levers- looks dorky. Look at the catalog image for guidance.
STRIKE that, the catalog image does not even have the levers at the sale height! place them between where they are and the RH lever in the callout image.
50/50 the tires will hold air, try. Advise that they WILL need to be reglued.
Derust the chain. Screams neglect. It has been, don'tbrag about it. 50/50 the Japanese freewheel was forced on to a French threaded hub.... grumble.
Campag front derailleur is an upgrade, leave it, but cannot assess cable guides, original had a housing stop.
Won't fetch the bigger dollars as it does not have the Nervex pro lugs.

beyond that, wipe it off, only service as mentioned above.
I would just rewrap the bars with existing or locate some black plastic tape. The type Schwinn dealers used to stock, Hunt-Wilde.
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Old 10-09-20, 12:04 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by polymorphself
Normally I would, and I still may. Itís just been awhile since Iíve had anything pretty sought after to sell and was thinking itís a good time to try my hand at eBay and see if I can net a higher amount than usual. This thread has:

A) Begun to steer me away from eBay
B) Got me considering keeping and restoring the damned thing for myself

Anybody know how this model may fair with either a small saddlebag (carradice barley) loaded up or a small rando bag in the front? I tend carry stuff often for various reasons. More relaxed geometry seems like an ok candidate here. Iíve read some worries about serious shimmy on these with a rear load.
...I don't doubt you've read stuff on shimmy. They are French metric tubing, so smaller than standard in diameter, and the butted stuff has plenty of spring to it. But I have several of these configured in various road/sport/ rando combinations, and I've never noticed a problem. It's probably not something you want to load heavily on racks with full panniers, but the ones I ride work fine with bags, both front and rear. YOu are correct in assessing yours as one of the slacker models in terms of head tube angle. They went all over the place in the 70's.




AS you progress along the timeline into the 80's, PX-10's get more compact, with shorter top tubes and stays. Those are probably more prone to shimmy under load than the older, more open geometry ones.
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Old 10-09-20, 12:09 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer
...I don't doubt you've read stuff on shimmy. They are French metric tubing, so smaller than standard in diameter, and the butted stuff has plenty of spring to it. But I have several of these configured in various road/sport/ rando combinations, and I've never noticed a problem. It's probably not something you want to load heavily on racks with full panniers, but the ones I ride work fine with bags, both front and rear. YOu are correct in assessing yours as one of the slacker models in terms of head tube angle. They went all over the place in the 70's.




AS you progress along the timeline into the 80's, PX-10's get more compact, with shorter top tubes and stays. Those are probably more prone to shimmy under load than the older, more open geometry ones.
Got it, thank you. And yeah, I wasn't thinking anything larger than either a barley in the rear or mini rando bag in the front. I've got a more suitable bike for panniers and heavier stuff.
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Old 10-09-20, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by polymorphself
Normally I would, and I still may. Itís just been awhile since Iíve had anything pretty sought after to sell and was thinking itís a good time to try my hand at eBay and see if I can net a higher amount than usual. This thread has:

A) Begun to steer me away from eBay
B) Got me considering keeping and restoring the damned thing for myself

Anybody know how this model may fair with either a small saddlebag (carradice barley) loaded up or a small rando bag in the front? I tend carry stuff often for various reasons. More relaxed geometry seems like an ok candidate here. Iíve read some worries about serious shimmy on these with a rear load.
This Falcon has a long wheel base and super skinny stays, I normally have a pair of small panniers on the rear for my lunch and other items when commuting to work. I've never felt any shimmy, that is, not until I had to get a battery for my wife's car. ...

...
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Old 10-09-20, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by francophile
Editing because my original comment might come off snarky.

I can't see anywhere above where anyone suggested using steel wool, especially not on the frame. I see I suggested using ultrafine (0000) bronze wool on the rusty chrome spots (i.e. FD cage), which is night and day a different product. Bronze wool is lightyears more gentle than steel wool, it's as soft if not softer than some automotive polishing compounds. However, with how fine 0000 bronze wool is, used intelligently, won't impact the the clearcoat any more than a compound will. I've used it several times to feather out defects in clearcoat on numerous occasions.
Fair point francophile, I misread your post a bit. I just thought it should be stressed that the chrome on the frame and fork is clearcoated and not bare chrome. I have used bronze wool for lots of different stuff but wouldn't use it on 50 year old clear coat, there's so many better products to use with less chance of damage.
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Old 10-09-20, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MB33
Fair point francophile, I misread your post a bit. I just thought it should be stressed that the chrome on the frame and fork is clearcoated and not bare chrome. I have used bronze wool for lots of different stuff but wouldn't use it on 50 year old clear coat, there's so many better products to use with less chance of damage.
It's all good, lack of lunch in my gut probably had me taking it in the wrong light.

It'd take something exceptional for me to use any type of wool it on mint fork ends or rear triangle chrome. To that point, I can't begin to tell you how many arguments there've been on BF about whether Peugeot was using clearcoat in the 60s and beyond. The oldest I could definitively date seen with my own eyes having clearcoat was a '66 model, clear was definitely a thing from '66 onward. I'm glad someone else echoes the truth.

That said, I can't stress enough two things: Everyone working on paint and glass should have 0000 bronze wool in their arsenal. For one, it's brilliant for cleaning glass, it's totally non-abrasive when used with liquids (possibly without, but I can't substantiate that). Second, it's remarkable for taking off rust from painted surfaces while not taking off paint when used with a basic steel-and-alloy-safe degreaser (purple Simple Green HD is my preference).

I've used it repeatedly to restore rusty frames over the years. I'll post an example of what it can do with a PX-10 I picked up late last year which has paint interspersed with rust all over when I finally get to it this winter. Brass wool is an incredible product that gets lumped in with harsh, abrasive, rust-inducing steel wool which is asinine to use on any chromed surface, and that bums me out. It gets a bad rap!

Bronze wool is non-ferrous and alone isn't naturally abrasive. As with anything though, the more pressure you apply, you can turn anything solid into an abrasive. Even a toothbrush and tissue paper will scratch surfaces if you rub firmly. The key is to use lube, go slow with light pressure. Give it a shot sometime!
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Old 10-09-20, 03:32 PM
  #47  
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I'm not opposed to selling separate components from bikes, but I am one of those who think it's a crime to part out a completely original classic like a PX-10 for the sake of profiteering for a very small sum of money. Seriously, the main value of a bike like that is the collection of parts that make it what it is. If you sold that classic frame separately it would be a royal PITA to obtain all the parts to bring it back to its classic state.
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Old 10-09-20, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by davester
I'm not opposed to selling separate components from bikes, but I am one of those who think it's a crime to part out a completely original classic like a PX-10 for the sake of profiteering for a very small sum of money. Seriously, the main value of a bike like that is the collection of parts that make it what it is. If you sold that classic frame separately it would be a royal PITA to obtain all the parts to bring it back to its classic state.
Well, for what itís worth, weíve now discerned that while they were good upgrades the handlebars, stem and front derailleur are not original and there are no pedals. But I do get your point. As for small sum of money, compared to what I paid for this when I picked it up, a return of $400-$700 or so would be no small sum. Iíve also been without work for some time due to covid and the cash wouldnít hurt.

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Old 10-09-20, 04:41 PM
  #49  
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I started out with a frame and fork in far worse shape than yours. With parts help from friends here I restored to original specs I had $330 or so into it. Rode an entire season and sold her for $490. The bike was a blast to ride.

That said. I had a LOT of labor hours into it. You don't have that problem but it does need to be cleaned up.
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Old 10-09-20, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by polymorphself
Well, for what it’s worth, we’ve now discerned that while they were good upgrades the handlebars, stem and front derailleur are not original and there are no pedals. But I do get your point. As for small sum of money, compared to what I paid for this when I picked it up, a return of $400-$700 or so would be no small sum. I’ve also been without work for some time due to covid and the cash wouldn’t hurt.
Sorry to hear that...family first and bikes second.....don't sweat the bars,that's no big deal in my opinion, get the wheel close to true, pull off the sew-ups and put it on CL or Offer-up for sale.
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