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Worst bodge I've seen

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Worst bodge I've seen

Old 10-11-20, 11:20 AM
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Worst bodge I've seen

I should have been ready for this after seeing how the seller had tried to install a 68mm cup-and-cone BB in a 70mm shell:




I suppose the BB not working saved this hub - there's nothing preventing the drive-side cone precessing inward, though the first solid push on the pedals probably would have pulled that side of the axle forward and jammed the tyre against the left chainstay...fresh grease though, nice try...
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Old 10-11-20, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by oneclick View Post
there's nothing preventing the drive-side cone precessing inward.

Why not? I see it, but don't know what it is or why it's preventing the cone and locknut to lock.
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Old 10-11-20, 11:55 AM
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...I worked Saturdays at the bike co-op here. I've seen some stuff, man. And some things.

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Old 10-11-20, 11:56 AM
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Zip-tie instead of a metal spacer washer...hell why didn't I think of that...been doing it wrong all these years...
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Old 10-11-20, 12:03 PM
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I have just been sorting out a bike I purchased.
very happy I have it but the previous mechanic(s) I will declare Gorillas, indifferent, neglectful or inept.
every threaded fastener had a surprise lurking.
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Old 10-11-20, 12:13 PM
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I will confess (Father, will this count?) to using zip-ties inappropriately in the past. Way in the past. Nothing like having the exhaust system drop and drag on a freeway when you thought "oh this will hold OK for just a short drive". No, kind of obvious in hind-sight, but they are not heat-resistant.
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Old 10-11-20, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by unworthy1 View Post
I will confess (Father, will this count?) to using zip-ties inappropriately in the past. Way in the past. Nothing like having the exhaust system drop and drag on a freeway when you thought "oh this will hold OK for just a short drive". No, kind of obvious in hind-sight, but they are not heat-resistant.
...we used to run a support station for one of the charity Centuries here. Our single most popular service was the free zip ties we gave away.
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Old 10-11-20, 12:39 PM
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Don't get me wrong, zippies have their uses and a place in my tool box...so does a really big hammer...
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Old 10-11-20, 01:00 PM
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My bodge

My Frejus TdF came with this rear axle "setup." The bike has 120mm rear spacing. No problem to use a 126mm rear hub. Just put the lock nut outside the dropout. Brilliant! (Or not.)

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Old 10-11-20, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob the Mech View Post
Zip-tie instead of a metal spacer washer...hell why didn't I think of that...been doing it wrong all these years...
Um, this was a ziptie instead of a locknut.
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Old 10-11-20, 02:45 PM
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I suppose the classier alternative would have been a nice hose clamp
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Old 10-11-20, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by smontanaro View Post
My Frejus TdF came with this rear axle "setup." The bike has 120mm rear spacing. No problem to use a 126mm rear hub. Just put the lock nut outside the dropout. Brilliant! (Or not.)

Reminds me of those 60s Raleigh hubs with no locknuts and flats on only one cone. You tighten the axle nut on the side with the non-adjustable cone, set the hub adjustment with the other cone, then tighten the other axle nut. It kind of works!
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Old 10-11-20, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by oneclick View Post
I should have been ready for this after seeing how the seller had tried to install a 68mm cup-and-cone BB in a 70mm shell:




I suppose the BB not working saved this hub - there's nothing preventing the drive-side cone precessing inward, though the first solid push on the pedals probably would have pulled that side of the axle forward and jammed the tyre against the left chainstay...fresh grease though, nice try...
There are few things that sufficient application of force cannot correct... just my personal observation.
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Old 10-11-20, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by eeuuugh View Post
Reminds me of those 60s Raleigh hubs with no locknuts and flats on only one cone. You tighten the axle nut on the side with the non-adjustable cone, set the hub adjustment with the other cone, then tighten the other axle nut. It kind of works!
The Raleigh setup is very good IMO - less parts, simple and easy to adjust.
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Old 10-11-20, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by oneclick View Post
I was more intrigued by the 4x spoke pattern and whether the spoke heads are overlapped.
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Old 10-11-20, 05:36 PM
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At least it isn't a spacer made out of the Handyman's Secret Weapon...


-Kurt
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Old 10-11-20, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by oneclick View Post
Um, this was a ziptie instead of a locknut.
I couldn't tell what it was. But it does now look like a zip tie between the axle spacers and the cone where you might find a thin washer. I prefer only one nut/locknut on each side of an axle. Several times with '70s wheels, I find a nut next to the cone and another nut/locknut on the outside of the drive-side spacers (like you show in your photo). I don't know why that's done. Just more of a pain in the ass and uses up more of my precious axle spacers when I replace it.

Last edited by SurferRosa; 10-11-20 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 10-12-20, 04:12 AM
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Originally Posted by SurferRosa View Post
I couldn't tell what it was. But it does now look like a zip tie between the axle spacers and the cone where you might find a thin washer. I prefer only one nut/locknut on each side of an axle. Several times with '70s wheels, I find a nut next to the cone and another nut/locknut on the outside of the drive-side spacers (like you show in your photo). I don't know why that's done. Just more of a pain in the ass and uses up more of my precious axle spacers when I replace it.
I use a locknut next to the cone partly out of habit - some removers needed the outside locknut and spacer removed, and having the cone still locked after that was a Good Thing.

And of course, locknuts work by forcing each half of the pair up against one side of the thread flanks - it's a friction fit that depends on the pressure generated by elastic deformation of the interfacing bits. If you shove a great big spacer between them (often made of softer aluminium) and start putting road and pedaling loads on it it may not stay tight, which can be a Very Bad Thing.

Edit: just noted in another thread someone suggesting what happened was a shop loosening the drive side cone when removing the freewheeel. Kids today...

Last edited by oneclick; 10-12-20 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 10-12-20, 04:41 AM
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"I do all my own work" = "Look this thing over with fine tooth comb" when I'm buying any kind of vehicle. We've come to a point in society where most of the "mechanic" has been bred out of people.
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Old 10-12-20, 04:50 AM
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Geez, you'd think on a vintage bike they would have had the decency to keep it period correct. #9 baling wire wrapped around the axle 4 or 5 times is the only proper kludge for C & V.
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Old 10-12-20, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Murray Missile View Post
Geez, you'd think on a vintage bike they would have had the decency to keep it period correct. #9 baling wire wrapped around the axle 4 or 5 times is the only proper kludge for C & V.
It's funny what you remember because at the time you thought "gotta remember that, could be useful" - Tom Joad and brass wire and piston rings...
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