Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Crown race removal tools

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Crown race removal tools

Old 10-22-20, 03:11 PM
  #1  
Narhay
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Narhay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
Posts: 3,592
Mentioned: 111 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 899 Post(s)
Liked 409 Times in 248 Posts
Crown race removal tools

I have this tool but it tends to scratch the fork crown so I am less than pleased with it.



What are you using? Park puller?
Narhay is offline  
Old 10-22-20, 03:12 PM
  #2  
non-fixie 
Shifting is fun!
 
non-fixie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Holland, NL
Posts: 9,603

Bikes: Yes, please.

Mentioned: 241 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1678 Post(s)
Liked 1,591 Times in 792 Posts
Screwdriver, hammer and a gentle touch.
__________________
Will she ride the clunker? Look at granny run!

non-fixie is offline  
Likes For non-fixie:
Old 10-22-20, 03:22 PM
  #3  
panzerwagon 
Garage tetris expert
 
panzerwagon's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 238

Bikes: Univega Specialissima, Univega Gran Touring

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 91 Post(s)
Liked 99 Times in 50 Posts
Originally Posted by non-fixie View Post
Screwdriver, hammer and a gentle touch.
Same, but instead of a screwdriver, I use a thin flat-tipped punch/drift. Effective at spreading the impact to a broader surface and less likely to slip or scratch. Alternate hits on either side of the fork crown under the race. Takes less than a minute, no specialized tools needed.
panzerwagon is offline  
Likes For panzerwagon:
Old 10-22-20, 03:34 PM
  #4  
Murray Missile 
Senior Member
 
Murray Missile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: 700 Ft. above sea level.
Posts: 2,594

Bikes: Not as many as there were awhile ago.

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 409 Post(s)
Liked 482 Times in 273 Posts
I use a tool I got on Ebay that looks like a super thin "pickle fork" for removing ball joints. It's a wedge you could almost shave with it and it does a beautiful job. No scratching and it doesn't damage the race. I use a rawhide mallet with it and so far it hasn't taken much force.
__________________
".....distasteful and easily triggered."
Murray Missile is offline  
Old 10-22-20, 03:47 PM
  #5  
merziac
Senior Member
 
merziac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 8,121

Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2

Mentioned: 162 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2450 Post(s)
Liked 1,701 Times in 1,138 Posts
Originally Posted by Narhay View Post
I have this tool but it tends to scratch the fork crown so I am less than pleased with it.



What are you using? Park puller?
You can make some protective shims out of a plastic milk jug.

Big enough to protect the crown and trimmed to match the curve of the race and you have to make sure it stays in place.

Or you can cut it and fold it over the tool.

I have the older Park and do this with it.
merziac is offline  
Old 10-22-20, 03:49 PM
  #6  
natterberry 
Senior Member
 
natterberry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Springfield, IL
Posts: 672

Bikes: ‘83/‘85 Trek 760, ‘82 Trek 614, ‘77/‘78 Trek 304, ‘74 Raleigh International

Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 276 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times in 127 Posts
I used a hammer and punch this past time, but have been tempted by these:


natterberry is offline  
Old 10-22-20, 04:18 PM
  #7  
3speedslow
Senior Member
 
3speedslow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Jacksonville, NC
Posts: 8,758

Bikes: A few

Mentioned: 112 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1741 Post(s)
Liked 618 Times in 403 Posts
Triflow between the race and steer tube before I start. Old lock nut on the threaded end. Lock nut on ground on top of board. Fork touching my chest. Thin flat blade punch with small hammer single blow On front race and rear. Checking for movement as I go. No problems yet.
3speedslow is offline  
Old 10-22-20, 04:36 PM
  #8  
jiangshi
OFG in Exile
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,809
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 447 Post(s)
Liked 160 Times in 110 Posts
Park.

Why mess with poor tools? One bad pull on an irreplaceable fork should convince to buy something that works.
jiangshi is offline  
Likes For jiangshi:
Old 10-22-20, 04:54 PM
  #9  
oneclick 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 1,402
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 511 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 485 Times in 304 Posts
Originally Posted by panzerwagon View Post
Same, but instead of a screwdriver, I use a thin flat-tipped punch/drift. Effective at spreading the impact to a broader surface and less likely to slip or scratch. Alternate hits on either side of the fork crown under the race. Takes less than a minute, no specialized tools needed.
Instead of a flat-tipped punch/drift, I use the long-side edge of the chainwhip (or any flat bit of steel the right size). You lay it across the race bottom, flat sides just resting beside the little bulges on the sides of the crown, hold one side of the crown+tool. With the tool (whip) like that it is really easy to keep it from moving off the race bottom and also to steady the fork at the same time. Yes, steerer (protected) on the ground and fork tips on your chest, tap twice, flip, repeat as necessary.
oneclick is offline  
Likes For oneclick:
Old 10-22-20, 06:02 PM
  #10  
merziac
Senior Member
 
merziac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 8,121

Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2

Mentioned: 162 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2450 Post(s)
Liked 1,701 Times in 1,138 Posts
Originally Posted by jiangshi View Post
Park.

Why mess with poor tools? One bad pull on an irreplaceable fork should convince to buy something that works.
True enough but most all tools require some finesse, if you're long on it , the tool(s) may be less critical.

That being said, the Park would not be my first choice but was an ok deal and requires more finesse than it should and can screw things up pretty easy IMO, I have the older version so.....

I have been a professional auto tech/mech most of my life and have a fortune invested in tools, bikes, motorcycles and cars, no qualms about buying good tools, special tools, cheap tools and spendy ones, used hammers for screwdrivers and screwdrivers for wrenches.

It takes what it takes, at the dragstrip, on the road and everywhere in between.
merziac is offline  
Likes For merziac:
Old 10-22-20, 07:06 PM
  #11  
canklecat
Me duelen las nalgas
 
canklecat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 12,834

Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel

Mentioned: 190 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4192 Post(s)
Liked 2,108 Times in 1,351 Posts
Any makeshift method would have damaged my older Trek carbon fork and titanium Chris King headset crown race. It doesn't extend enough beyond the fork crown to wedge in any kind of handheld wedge, screwdriver, chisel, etc., without damaging the crown and crown race.

I took it to the LBS and they used their Park tool. Took a minute, no damage, no drama. They charged $5. I gave them $10, and felt guilty later. Should have tipped more. They've done other freebie favors for me when they weren't busy.

I'm temporarily using an Orign8 headset, which is quite a bit wider in diameter and can probably be removed with makeshift crown race pulling tools. It extends quite a bit beyond the fork crown. And I don't really care if the Orign8 crown race is damaged, as long as the fork itself isn't damaged.

But I won't try to remove the King headset or similarly sized, tight fitting crown race, without a proper tool.

Regarding the pressed-in headset itself, I bought an inexpensive metal tool off Amazon with the springy split-end. Works exactly like the Park version. No problem with that tool. Ditto affordable presses. But the Park Tools crown race puller is head and shoulders above anything else on the market, with the exception of a couple of similarly designed and equally expensive tools.
canklecat is offline  
Old 10-22-20, 07:30 PM
  #12  
3alarmer
Friendship is Magic
 
3alarmer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Big Tomato
Posts: 19,741

Bikes: old ones

Mentioned: 280 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21336 Post(s)
Liked 4,247 Times in 3,105 Posts
Originally Posted by Narhay View Post
I have this tool but it tends to scratch the fork crown so I am less than pleased with it.



What are you using? Park puller?
...I use the old Nashbar version of that same tool. If you are using it in such a way that you expect tightening the tapered wedge will pull your race, I can see how you might scratch the fork crown in some instances. A much better method of using this tool is to just tighten it to the point where the wedged edges make initial contact with the race, but not quite tight enough to contact the crown except very loosely.

Then , using two saw horses (which is what I use), support the tool on each side with the casting ends, not the adjustment bolts, resting across, between both horses. (The adjustment bolts will eventually bend if you use them for support. I guess you cold do this with a vise, if it were mounted in such a way that you had the jaws out over empty space, not the work bench). Drop in some penetrant along the seating line. I use a dead blow hammer and a piece of scrap 2x4 on the top of the fork to pound it down until it drops out of the race. Usually takes only two or three blows. Put something under the working area like a doormat to catch the fork as it drops, because it usually drops all the way to the ground.

I can't ever recall scratching a fork using this method. I, too, am not especially impressed with the Park version, which we have at the co-op here.

Last edited by 3alarmer; 10-22-20 at 08:33 PM.
3alarmer is offline  
Old 10-22-20, 07:39 PM
  #13  
j_e_r_e_m_y
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 269
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 92 Post(s)
Liked 64 Times in 28 Posts
Originally Posted by Murray Missile View Post
I use a tool I got on Ebay that looks like a super thin "pickle fork" for removing ball joints. It's a wedge you could almost shave with it and it does a beautiful job. No scratching and it doesn't damage the race. I use a rawhide mallet with it and so far it hasn't taken much force.
This made me curious... can you post a pic or link to it? Thx!
j_e_r_e_m_y is offline  
Likes For j_e_r_e_m_y:
Old 10-22-20, 08:26 PM
  #14  
SurferRosa
Señor Member
 
SurferRosa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 4,387

Bikes: Old school lightweights

Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1801 Post(s)
Liked 1,952 Times in 1,105 Posts
Instead of using the OP's tool alone, use it with some kind of rubber mallet. I use the rubber handle of an adjustable wrench.
SurferRosa is offline  
Old 10-22-20, 08:53 PM
  #15  
repechage
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 15,932
Mentioned: 105 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1912 Post(s)
Liked 747 Times in 582 Posts
Originally Posted by natterberry View Post
I used a hammer and punch this past time, but have been tempted by these:


I use the Campagnolo tool that appears very close to this, just a bit shorter. Classic.
i did make one modification- added a strip of leather at the base of the U. That way when the race breaks free, any paint is protected.
repechage is offline  
Old 10-22-20, 09:24 PM
  #16  
SalsaShark
Senior Member
 
SalsaShark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eastern Iowa
Posts: 512

Bikes: 2014 Trek Allant drop bar conversion, modified Schwinn MTN commuter, 2015 Trek 520, Soma ES, Salsa Journeyman

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 123 Post(s)
Liked 218 Times in 105 Posts
I usually (using a mallet) gently tap a utility knife blade between the fork crown and lower bearing race. Once you get a bit of space between the two using the slightly tapered blade, a twist will separate the race further. This is usually enough to remove the race, and if not, there will be enough room to insert a flat screw driver or similar tool for the final removal. I find this to be a fairly non-destructive way to go about the process. I have never had to remove a race on a carbon steerer, however.

Last edited by SalsaShark; 10-22-20 at 09:27 PM.
SalsaShark is offline  
Old 10-22-20, 09:32 PM
  #17  
Hudson308 
Mr. Anachronism
 
Hudson308's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Somewhere west of Tobie's
Posts: 2,052

Bikes: fillet-brazed Chicago Schwinns, and some other stuff

Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 512 Post(s)
Liked 206 Times in 141 Posts
Originally Posted by 3speedslow View Post
Triflow between the race and steer tube before I start. Old lock nut on the threaded end. Lock nut on ground on top of board. Fork touching my chest. Thin flat blade punch with small hammer single blow On front race and rear. Checking for movement as I go. No problems yet.
Same, minus the Tri-flow. The punch I use for this is brass.
__________________
"My only true wisdom is in knowing I have none" -Socrates
Hudson308 is offline  
Old 10-23-20, 07:20 AM
  #18  
Narhay
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Narhay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
Posts: 3,592
Mentioned: 111 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 899 Post(s)
Liked 409 Times in 248 Posts
Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
...I use the old Nashbar version of that same tool. If you are using it in such a way that you expect tightening the tapered wedge will pull your race, I can see how you might scratch the fork crown in some instances. A much better method of using this tool is to just tighten it to the point where the wedged edges make initial contact with the race, but not quite tight enough to contact the crown except very loosely.

Then , using two saw horses (which is what I use), support the tool on each side with the casting ends, not the adjustment bolts, resting across, between both horses. (The adjustment bolts will eventually bend if you use them for support. I guess you cold do this with a vise, if it were mounted in such a way that you had the jaws out over empty space, not the work bench). Drop in some penetrant along the seating line. I use a dead blow hammer and a piece of scrap 2x4 on the top of the fork to pound it down until it drops out of the race. Usually takes only two or three blows. Put something under the working area like a doormat to catch the fork as it drops, because it usually drops all the way to the ground.

I can't ever recall scratching a fork using this method. I, too, am not especially impressed with the Park version, which we have at the co-op here.
That is probably the proper way to use it. Good I asked.

My method involved not using it like wedges to pry it but hitting one side of the forged ends back and forth until it fell off. Of course this would jostle it around and scratch the crown.
Narhay is offline  
Old 10-23-20, 08:39 AM
  #19  
easyupbug 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,689

Bikes: too many sparkly Italians, some sweet Americans and a couple interesting Japanese

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 287 Post(s)
Liked 156 Times in 115 Posts
Originally Posted by Narhay View Post
I have this tool but it tends to scratch the fork crown so I am less than pleased with it.

What are you using? Park puller?
I never scratch the crown using one very similar, as a puller not a wedge.
easyupbug is offline  
Old 10-23-20, 10:13 AM
  #20  
tiger1964 
Senior Member
 
tiger1964's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 1,348

Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto

Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 429 Post(s)
Liked 135 Times in 101 Posts
Originally Posted by Hudson308 View Post
The punch I use for this is brass.
I like that idea, I can imaging multiple uses for a brass punch. Just checked there's a smallish one for $7.43 P**** at A*****.
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
tiger1964 is offline  
Old 10-23-20, 11:38 AM
  #21  
rccardr 
aka: Dr. Cannondale
 
rccardr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,486

Bikes: Lots. Just...lots.

Mentioned: 179 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1528 Post(s)
Liked 906 Times in 442 Posts
Originally Posted by jiangshi View Post
Park. Why mess with poor tools? One bad pull on an irreplaceable fork should convince to buy something that works.
This. The latest version of the Park tool is a joy to use.
Expensive, but truly the right tool for the job.
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
rccardr is offline  
Old 10-23-20, 06:32 PM
  #22  
Murray Missile 
Senior Member
 
Murray Missile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: 700 Ft. above sea level.
Posts: 2,594

Bikes: Not as many as there were awhile ago.

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 409 Post(s)
Liked 482 Times in 273 Posts
Originally Posted by j_e_r_e_m_y View Post
This made me curious... can you post a pic or link to it? Thx!
Not identical to mine but very close. I do one or two a year so this is more than adequate for my needs.

__________________
".....distasteful and easily triggered."
Murray Missile is offline  
Likes For Murray Missile:
Old 10-23-20, 09:08 PM
  #23  
JohnDThompson 
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 22,706

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2639 Post(s)
Liked 1,305 Times in 816 Posts
Campagnolo #729, FTW
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
camp-729.jpg (50.5 KB, 40 views)
JohnDThompson is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.