JaccoW

I didn't need another project but this one was in my list of 'would like to have'* bikes and for €30 I couldn't pass up on it.

The beginning:
It started with an ad for a "Ladies bike"
That's not a ladies bike. That does look however like a suspiciously large Koga Touring frame! Most of these came with triple-butted tubing. The child seat clamped to the front however looks like it might have crushed the top tube. :X
So a quick browse through the older Koga brochures told me this was very likely a GlobeTraveller or Randonneur. I contacted the seller and he told me it was a WorldTraveller and yes, it did look like some idiot before him mounted it and crushed the top tube.

While contemplating what to do I consulted the Bicycle-Mechanics subforum (That's a lost case. Why is that your dream bike?) and the Framebuilders subforum (You can ride that without worry easily. Just remove the carrier.) and asked a neighbour who was in the area of the seller to pick it up for me.

Start of the project:
So now I have a 1993 Koga-Miyata WorldTraveller before me in a 66cm frame size. I have always wanted to try a larger frame and here we are.



More pictures soon.

* = List of these bikes:

JaccoW

The bags that came with the bike might fit the lettering but they have no place on a bike like this so they'll have to go.
My first concern was the dent in the top tube but once removed it is hardly visible, no paint damage but you can tell with a straigh ruler and some calipers. Before I do anything else on this bike I will try to fix it with some frame blocks if I can get my hands on them.

An early clean and strip down shows a bike with most of its original parts which were a mix of Shimano Deore LX and Deore XT. Most of the decals are damaged but the most important ones are there. It's a 66cm model with oversized Hardtlite FM-1 STB tubing, Koga's branded version of Miyata's Splined-Triple-Butted tubing with sometimes some custom combinations.
I'm saying oversized because, well Miyata marketed it as oversized tubing, and the top tube is 29mm (compared to 26mm for Reynolds 531ST) and the bottom tube is 32mm. This supposedly "helps stability on downhills with a loaded bike, especially for the larger frames" according to Koga-Miyata.

One nice thing compared to my 1980's Batavus Randonneur GL is that this bike has vertical dropouts, and the front canti-studs are wider apart. The integrated frame protector on the chainstay is a nice touch as well.
It currently has 28-622 tyres but there is plenty of room and this bike likely came with 32mm tyres + fenders when new. It looks like there might be room for 37mm tyres or even more with 650B. We'll see, I have some wheels on other bikes I could try for fit.
I might swap some parts from the Batavus but chances are this has a 130mm rear as the Deore LX hub didn't become 135mm until 1996 with 8-speed. Then again it's a small spread and I do have a pair of really nice Koga hubs and blue anodized handlebar from a Koga Beachracer.

Another fun detail is the downtube shifter on the seattube. It operates a bottom bracket dynamo and was pretty high-end before the onset of hub dynamos.


Classic Dutch grocery bags.


Stripped bike


Tubing decals


Shimano Deore LX cantilevers


Shimano Deore XT seatpost


Weird suspension stem?


Shimano Deore LX drivetrain


Downtube shifter to bottom bracket dynamo


Dent in top tube

JaccoW

Placeholder for more info later. I did a lot of research already and expect some more graphs to come soon.

JaccoW

Indeed! Though not unheard of in the North of the Netherlands.

lubloi

Very jealous.

noglider 

Ladies bike because of the colors?

non-fixie 

Nice find!

3speedslow

Top tube looks more like a bend then a dent. I would ride it, no way tall enough though.

Did you get the rack on the ground in the first home pick?

trailmix

The top tube doesn’t look as bad as I was expecting. I have an 83 Panasonic PT-5000 that has a small dent in the top tube from where it fell over when the previous owner was on tour and it doesn’t seem to affect the way it rides.
I am becoming more interested in those Koga-Miyatas although they are harder to find over here. Do you know the difference between the Randonneur and the World Traveller?

JaccoW

That or the childs seat and rear bags. Who knows? Might just be a mislabeled ad.
I kind of like some of the more garish colours of the 90's but this isn't one of them.

I asked the seller to remove the front wheel and rack so it would fit easier into my neighbours car.
According to someone on a Dutch forum it looks a lot like a Bor Yueh rack from Taiwan and were common on touring bikes at the time.

They do apparently show up from time to time from people who imported them at the time.

The difference between the Randonneur and the WorldTraveller depends a bit on the year.

• In 1987 the Randonneur was the fancier drop bar model with triple butted tubing whereas the WorldTraveller had double butted tubing. Pricewise; RandonneurExtra NLG 2695.- > Randonneur NLG 2395.- > WorldTraveller NLG 1895.- > Traveller NLG 1695.-
• In 1989 the Randonneur has disappeared and the WorldTraveller seems to have taken its place in the lineup. Pricewise: RandonneurExtra NLG 2850.- > WorldTraveller NLG 2240.- > RoadRunner NLG1830.-
• For the 1991 to 1993 period I cannot find much detailed data because the brochures were not scanned completely. The RandonneurExtra and the WorldTraveller look like very similar frames but the Extra is the higher-end model adjusted to "more extreme requirements", chrome socks and lighter overal weight.
• In 1994 the Randonneur is back and the place of the WorldTraveller seems to have been taken by the GloveTraveller. Both models have oversized FM-1 STB frames and forks, straight bars and 32-622 wheels. With the GlobeTraveller having a stronger fork and more of a focus on unpaved roads or trekking and the Randonneur more of a touring model.
• This continues to 1998 with the GlobeTraveller bulking up a bit for use as a heavy-duty touring frame and the Randonneur being the lighter touring model.
• In 1999 the WorldTraveller is reintroduced as a 26 inch wheeled alternative to the GlobeTraveller (both in Alloy 7005 now) with the Randonneur still a lugged FM-1 STB frame. Pricewise; GlobeTraveller NLG 3995.- > WorldTraveller NLG 3495.- > Randonneur NLG 3395.- > Traveller NLG 2995.-

I have gathered more information in a sheet with charts and everything but I need some time to write all of that down and double check some things.

trailmix

^^^^^^Thanks for the detailed info. If I ever find a 58cm within my budget I would definitely snap it up. I can’t wait to see how yours turns out.

sovende

Smart move to bail on the "mechanics" SUV-forum, a little too much unwarranted negativity. The bike does look MUCH better with with all of those "accessories" removed! My knowledge of Dutch culture is somewhat limited (I visited frequently in the mid to late 80s while with the US Army in Germany), but I might agree that the bike was indeed ridden most often by a tall Dutch gal going to the market or dropping her child off at school!
I would still try to remedy the deformed top tube with the blocks and I believe that a general "fluff & buff" is clearly in order. A 66cm frame (that's nearly 26" for the non-metric folks . Is a pretty tall frame to be sure! I'll still be interested to see the finished product. For 30 Euros, it was a no-brainer.

JaccoW

So I took some time today to wash the bike, remove most of the parts for cleaning and measure a couple of my bikes to be able to compare them through the Geometry map by BicycleCalculator.co.uk.
I'm comparing them to a couple of my bikes and the links with all the data can be found here:

• Koga-Miyata WorldTraveller - 66cm
• Batavus Randonneur GL - 64cm
• Koga-Miyata SilverAce - 63cm
• Pelago Stavanger Commuter - Girlfriend's bike. 57cm (might have to remeasure some time)

What it allows you to do is create a picture you can overlap to see notable differences in geometry.


The WorldTraveller (purple) overlaid on the Batavus (Blue)

This shows us that the WorldTraveller is only slightly bigger than the Batavus and for example trail of the Batavus (28mm) is decidedly lower than this bike (55mm) which will lead to different handling but we will see how that works in the future.
I haven't fully dialed in the seat and handlebars so some parts will change.

It's also fun to compare it to my upright drum brake commuter. The SilverAce has an even longer wheelbase and lower trail than both.


The WorldTraveller (purple) overlaid on the SilverAce (Green)

Anyway, that's it for the graphs for now. Some more pictures of the naked frame.

The bottom bracket is soaking in penetrating oil and all the parts are going in the sonic cleaner. I might reuse some of these parts or replace them with something a bit more modern.
I tapped most of the holes and put some new greased stainless steel screws in to keep them protected.
Currently the bike has 28mm tyres installed but I think there is room for 35mm or perhaps even 38mm tyres with fenders. I am contemplating to put 650B wheels in there but I guess I will first try the 44x584 (650B) wheels that I have on the tandem to see how much room there is for that.


Overview shot of the frame


All the different bottle cage screws


Chain stay protector


Lots of room around the rear fork


Front fork only drilled and threaded on the front.


WorldTraveller decal


Hardtlite FM-1 fork decal.

EDIT:
Bonus comparison between my own and my girlfriend's bike.

lubloi

How do these plastic guides (entry/exit points of the hidden cable routing) come off? Do you just pry them out with a screwdriver or is there a trick?

Have you decided on a strategy to fix the ovality of the top tube? I would probably not even touch it, 2 mm of ovality in a steel tube is nothing. My Giant Terrago has steel tubes that are ovalized on purpose. In any case, it's unlikely to have a measurable effect on strength (if anything - more 'lateral stiffness and vertical compliance').

JaccoW

From what I've read you can twist them 90 degrees and then just pull them out. But the general advice is not to replace the inner and outer cable at once.

I will probably try frame blocks but this is a weird size so I will probably have to custom make them myself. But I'll double check some time. There are guides how to make some yourself (Instructables or Donard) or you can buy them (theBicycleAcademy.org and ParagonMachineWorks). Combined with a sliding hammer for the final bit I might be able to get it as good as new.
I think I want to respray this bike some time in the future but I have yet to decide on paint and parts. Something like a RAL3003 ruby red with silver parts and golden accents should work nicely together but I also have a pair of blue Koga Beachracer hubs + handlebar on the way so a nice contrast like a white frame with blue accents could be nice too.

On another Dutch forum I came across someone who has all the brochures from 1988 to 2010 with all the additions so I might just dig into the history of the bike a bit more and makes some higher-res scans to share here.

For now I have an Excel file that I plot any and all data in for an easy overview. It's a work in progress but I think these are fun to show for now:


Frame material frequency, excluding fork material


Average weight per general model type.

non-fixie 

Wow! Those touring bike weights have really gone through the roof in twenty-odd years. And I'm guessing the weight weenie of the bunch is the early nineties TerraLiner? I have been lusting after a '93 Carbolite for quite a while, but they seem to be pretty rare.

JaccoW

Jup you guessed it. The early nineties were a great time for Touring and MTB lovers but I think the early hybrids were more interesting. I have an active search for the Terraliners but anything over 60cm is rare. The later (full-carbon) Terraliner Carbolite are really cool too. Just very expensive.

EDIT: Those weights are a bit of an educated guess for now between 1988 and 1993 because I don't have all the data. I also still have to enter all the post-2000 specifications but I suspect you'll see a small rise to nearly 20Kg and then it topping off around 17-18 Kg.
The 1994-1995 peak in hybrid weight is because the Terraliner disappeared from the lineup for two years and only the RoadRunner and the Adventure remained as true hybrids.

EDIT2: @non-fixie what size are you looking for, I could keep an eye out as well?

cudak888 

Very interesting new project there. Not sure I'd be keen on the idea of not having the opportunity to IGH such a frame - derailers sound like a PITA in traffic. The SilverAce seems a lot better suited in that regard, but I take it you're aiming for a lighter build this time.

Sexist association with the colors aside, the fade to silver isn't doing it any favor right now - it's nothing like the stunning two-tone blue of the SilverAce - so that red respray would suit is very nicely indeed. It'd give you the chance to roll out that pesky top tube ovalizing. Any chance you could get gold Koga transfers? That'd look phenomenal.

-Kurt

JaccoW

I'm sure I could get some transfers like that made. Something similar to the SilverAce but on red would look great.



I have come across some red Terraliner models with that color scheme and it is a great look. A blue fade like on this other one I found would be beautiful too but I think I would prefer a different colour this time.




P.s. That blue TerraLiner Oval is a damn sexy bike.

JaccoW

One more update for today.

Received a wheelset, handlebar + stem from a modern Koga Beachracer today. The big standout are the blue anodized hubs and flared handlebars.
On quick tubeswap later and the wheels were on the WorldTraveller. I realize this is not a disc frame (though you might get away with an adapter in the rear) but nothing wrong with a set of wheels I might transfer to something else in the future.

Blue hubs on a potential red frame are quite the contrast but I do like things a little more colourful.
It was also a good excuse to try out 35-622 tyres and I think there's plenty of room for 37-622 with fenders, which should make for a comfortable touring bike.

cudak888 

...fork swap and trip to the framebuilder for the rear triangle?



-Kurt

JaccoW

Don't tempt me. I am already making a list and trying to figure out how much it is going to cost. I don't need another couple hundred Euros added.
But nice cantilevers like the silver Dia-Compe Gran Compe 999 or its black equivalent the Dia Compe CR-X are fine options too. and will look very classy here.

I'm reading up on colour theory for bikes (LovelyBicycle) to figure out what colour scheme would work here and that will dictate the parts used.

non-fixie 

Thanks, but officially I am not looking for anything.

Unofficially, however, if I were to come across an affordable 63cm early nineties Terraliner Carbolite, I would certainly be tempted to try to find a way to smuggle it into my garage.

JaccoW

I was bored so I played around a bit with the BikeCad website. It allows you to model your bike to minute detail and add experiment with colours (but no threaded stems ).
With the measurements I did before and some of the photos on here it allowed me to experiment with some colour combinations...

Personally I like the red with both black and cream tyres as well as the yellow. What are your thoughts?

And for those who want to play with this themselves:

• WorldTraveller stock
• WorldTraveller in Red
• WorldTraveller in Yellow

First up!

1. Red with box type (H + SON TB14) rims and skinwalls



2. Slightly darker Red with medium height (H + SON Archetype) rims



3. Slightly darker Red with medium height (H + SON Archetype) rims and cream skinwall tyres



4. Dark blue with medium height (H + SON Archetype) rims



5. Black with medium height (H + SON Archetype) rims



6. Turquoise with box type (H + SON TB14) rims and skinwalls



7. Yellow with medium height (H + SON Archetype) rims in black



And here are a few fun colours that are unlikely to be serious contenders because powdercoat would be too expensive. : P

8. Dutch flag red/white/blue with (H + SON Archetype) rims



9. Red to blue fade with box type (H + SON TB14) rims

non-fixie 

Nice! All of these colors look interesting, in their own way. But whether you go for a classic look or full resto-mod, at the end of the day a dark color will give the best results, I think.

I had a Ford Capri Mk II once, in that diagonal red, white and blue color scheme, and the novelty wore off very, very quickly. Sold it two weeks later.

Within the given range, I think the dark red could be the most interesting choice. I always liked the way Kurt's Superior turned out, although it's more maroon than red. Really classy: