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Suntour Superbe Bottom Bracket - tell us what you know

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Suntour Superbe Bottom Bracket - tell us what you know

Old 11-13-20, 04:17 PM
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Suntour Superbe Bottom Bracket - tell us what you know

There is a thread on Campagnolo BB and the compatibility along with which cranks go with which BB's.

If you have knowledge above and beyond what is on Velobase, please share it!

Several years ago I found a Superbe BB in a COOP and decided to buy it even if I didn't have an immediate use for it. Now I do

I am building up the Trek 760 with Superbe Pro parts. I don't have a Pro BB and will not pay upwards of $150 for one on the bay.
What is puzzling me is the length. I believe it is 112 or so. It is asymetrical and with the longer side on the DS the chain line is way out of line. Reversing it brings it where it needs to be, but the NDS now stick way out. I though I might have a spindle for a triple but most of those I have seen on Velobase are about the same.
The crank I am using is a newer one with 130 BCD. I also have one with 144 BCD, obviously an older one.

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Old 11-13-20, 04:42 PM
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Sutherlands says Superbe BB is 109, symmetrical and Campy taper. You may have a Cyclone BB.

Are you looking at a cartridge BB or loose ball/spindle? Cartridge are 112.

Do you have a model # for the crank you want to use?
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Old 11-13-20, 06:41 PM
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Not cartridge. Well I should have guessed you would know!
Marking is GL on the back. Superbe Pro on the front.

As a fall back, I have a strong light sealed bearing BB I can use.

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Old 11-14-20, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by SJX426
Not cartridge. Well I should have guessed you would know!
Marking is GL on the back. Superbe Pro on the front.
GL is the date code (Dec.1990)

Suntour Superbe BB spindles were symmetric for bcd 130 cranks, and asymmetric AND symmetric for bcd 144 cranks,
Spindle length of the last gen bottom bracket(1991 model year) BB-SB11-E is 109mm(130bcd) and 117mm for the previous gen SA-110 and SS-110(1985 model year) (144bcd). One cannot get a proper chain line when mixing different gens.
If your spindle is asymmetric and it says Superbe it's probably from the 1983 model year(BB-100)(113mm)

You might be able to find a 109mm Sugino spindle more easily than a Suntour
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Old 11-14-20, 06:19 AM
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@LittleGinseng - Thanks for the information! I do have a 144 crank. I will try that one out. And it is good to know that I need a 109! Don't have a 109 in the stash.

Found a 109 Sprint.

Tried the BB with the older crank (BB date code) with 144 BCD. Works.
Done with this thread unless other want to continue the discussion. Back to 1984 Trek 760 Build - Finally
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Old 11-14-20, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by SJX426
@LittleGinseng - Thanks for the information! I do have a 144 crank. I will try that one out. And it is good to know that I need a 109! Don't have a 109 in the stash.

Found a 109 Sprint.

Tried the BB with the older crank (BB date code) with 144 BCD. Works.
Done with this thread unless other want to continue the discussion. Back to 1984 Trek 760 Build - Finally
Trying to make sure Iím following this as I will be dealing with this as well. LittleGinseng stated a 117mm spindle works with the 144 BCD cranks and the 109mm works with the 130 BCD cranks.

You are using the 109mm spindle with the older 144 BCD cranks and youíve got the correct chain line?
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Old 11-14-20, 03:41 PM
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@plonz - @LittleGinseng did state that but he also mention, in the last sentence, a 113 asymmetric spindle but did not state whinch crank it applied. That is the one I have, 113. I used it with the 144 with the long side on the DS such that the word on the crank could be read from the saddle looking down if the shell was not blocking the view. It has a really good chain line for me.

I did find and ordered a 109 for the preferred 130 BCD crank I have. Lowest price of the day on the bay and the only 109 listed that was not a Pista BB. It is a Sprint BB that is advertised as NOS. Sugino is the other option. Trying to find a 109 is a bit tough, 107, 110 even 109.5 can be found.
Glad you might find some help as a result of this thread!
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Old 02-01-21, 04:47 PM
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Dear SJX426,
Do you still have that Superbe spindle, and would you be willing to sell it?
I am trying to put a Superbe groupset on my T J Quick frame. It has a 68mm bb shell but the Superbe bb I bought I now find has a symmetric Sugino 75 spindle that results in my chainring having about 0.5mm clearance from chainstay, so I'm looking for that 113mm asymmetric spindle and no luck thus far.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-01-21, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Tadpole90
Dear SJX426,
Do you still have that Superbe spindle, and would you be willing to sell it?
I am trying to put a Superbe groupset on my T J Quick frame. It has a 68mm bb shell but the Superbe bb I bought I now find has a symmetric Sugino 75 spindle that results in my chainring having about 0.5mm clearance from chainstay, so I'm looking for that 113mm asymmetric spindle and no luck thus far.
Thanks in advance.
I always prefer the very minimum chainline dimension, as long as the chainring clears the chainstay and the front derailer can still effect a good downshift.
If you have .5mm clearance now, just add a 1mm cup spacer and your setup should then be ideal.

Whenever chainring clearance to the chainstay comes up as marginal, I will just put LocTite (blue) on the bolt threads and then not tighten the bolt quite as hard. This easily buys another half-millimeter of clearance.
Another trick is to identify any location around the spider where the chainring runs closest to the chainstay, and just tweak it outward at that spot using a hammer and dowel drift against the chainring nut.
Yet one more trick is to place heavy-duty belt-sander belt between the chainstay and the chainring, and rotate the cranks to machine off the point(s) of tightest contact. Always buys yet another 1/2mm of clearance.

All this beats buying more bottom brackets, particularly since published dimensions can be a bit here and there upon actually installing them! (!)
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Old 02-01-21, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by dddd
I always prefer the very minimum chainline dimension, as long as the chainring clears the chainstay and the front derailer can still effect a good downshift.
If you have .5mm clearance now, just add a 1mm cup spacer and your setup should then be ideal.

Whenever chainring clearance to the chainstay comes up as marginal, I will just put LocTite (blue) on the bolt threads and then not tighten the bolt quite as hard. This easily buys another half-millimeter of clearance.
Another trick is to identify any location around the spider where the chainring runs closest to the chainstay, and just tweak it outward at that spot using a hammer and dowel drift against the chainring nut.
Yet one more trick is to place heavy-duty belt-sander belt between the chainstay and the chainring, and rotate the cranks to machine off the point(s) of tightest contact. Always buys yet another 1/2mm of clearance.

All this beats buying more bottom brackets, particularly since published dimensions can be a bit here and there upon actually installing them! (!)
Thanks for your reply. I must confess to being thoroughly confused by it all. I did buy Sutherland's and Barnett's manuals to try and educate myself but they don't relieve all the confusion! Sutherland's seems light on Suntour specs.
The spacer sounds like it would fix my chainring clearance but I also have the adjustable cup only threading in halfway to good adjustment for the bearings (3mm+ protruding beyond lockring) and Mr. Barnett tells me that's a sign a need a different spindle? This translates to a approx. 12.5mm clearance between chainstay and left hand crank. Does that sound okay? Would the spacer presumably shift everything over to the drive side?
Apologies for the neophyte questions and thanks again for your help.
May I ask you if
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