My new to me vintage Brooks won't absorb Proofide
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Washington DC area
Posts: 335
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 55 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 57 Times
in
25 Posts
My new to me vintage Brooks won't absorb Proofide
I scored a super nice B17 Champion Special from the late 80's with the chrome rails, in a nice dark brown patina to complement the bike I'm restoring. The Proofide I've applied seems to be sitting on top, and won't fully wipe clean after many attempts. It's like wiping it off a glass table, just will not absorb. The leather looks to be in great condition with no deformities or any sit bone impressions. The previous owner did mention (after I bought it) cleaning in with a leather furniture cleaner, so now I'm concerned it's been damaged or stripped somehow? I know there's a lot of Brooks treatment opinions and oil baths and other remedies, so I'm wondering if anyone else has had a Brooks that wasn't thirsty.
#2
Senior Member
Have you tried some Proofide on the underside to see if it absorbs there?
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Posts: 11,674
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
Mentioned: 210 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1372 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,751 Times
in
938 Posts
When I tried to bring a leather saddle (Brooks) back to life, I smeared and rubbed in (a lot) the product (Proofhide) onto the surfaces, both top and bottom, and on as many areas as I could reach. Then, I put the saddle in a plastic bag and set it in the sun to warm and liquify the Proofhide. Couple of days later, some wipe and polish with a dry rag was all it took to clean the treated saddle.
__________________
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,038
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4511 Post(s)
Liked 6,378 Times
in
3,667 Posts
I scored a super nice B17 Champion Special from the late 80's with the chrome rails, in a nice dark brown patina to complement the bike I'm restoring. The Proofide I've applied seems to be sitting on top, and won't fully wipe clean after many attempts. It's like wiping it off a glass table, just will not absorb. The leather looks to be in great condition with no deformities or any sit bone impressions. The previous owner did mention (after I bought it) cleaning in with a leather furniture cleaner, so now I'm concerned it's been damaged or stripped somehow? I know there's a lot of Brooks treatment opinions and oil baths and other remedies, so I'm wondering if anyone else has had a Brooks that wasn't thirsty.
It has silicone in it so many here would not use it but Langlitz makes some of if not the best motorcycle leathers in the world and has been in business for going on 74 years so I think they know what they're doing.
It works great for me and sometimes seems to not absorb, I usually take the horsehair brush to it and it comes around, sometimes needs a few drops of water during the buff.
As mentioned, you can always warm it up a bit too, just don't get carried away, patience and moderation across the board is key.
Last edited by merziac; 11-26-20 at 01:48 AM.
#6
Phyllo-buster
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 8,847
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
Mentioned: 133 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2298 Post(s)
Liked 2,054 Times
in
1,254 Posts
It sounds like it's waterproof. Just ride it and whatever's on there will dissipate.
FWIW I'm in the 'never treat the bottom camp'. Maybe a very light coat once. I get decades out of my saddles this way and they lose shape very slowly.
FWIW I'm in the 'never treat the bottom camp'. Maybe a very light coat once. I get decades out of my saddles this way and they lose shape very slowly.
#8
Senior Member
^
In the same camp. Have never treated any of the Brooks saddles I have used and they have never failed after 30 plus years. However, I do boil them to advance break-in when new. DO NOT RIDE WET.
In the same camp. Have never treated any of the Brooks saddles I have used and they have never failed after 30 plus years. However, I do boil them to advance break-in when new. DO NOT RIDE WET.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,156
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3810 Post(s)
Liked 6,690 Times
in
2,610 Posts
Unless it feels really dry on the underside, no need to apply anything. Just ride it.
#10
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times
in
339 Posts
Do not use a hair dryer. Heat is bad for leather.
Actually, i feel that way about Proofide, too. But heat is worse.
Actually, i feel that way about Proofide, too. But heat is worse.
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
www.rhmsaddles.com.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 2,249
Mentioned: 45 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 981 Post(s)
Liked 1,844 Times
in
609 Posts
Yeah, don't heat up old leather. Even fresh leather that's being heated to create shapes (as many saddles are during initial forming) has to be between damp and soaking wet for heat to create the desired outcome, which is totally irrelevant to what is being asked about here.
Both heat and moisture are enemies of old leather.
-Gregory
Both heat and moisture are enemies of old leather.
-Gregory