Surface rust from scratch...or?
 

Dear highly qualified experts,

I posted something similar in framebuilders but was told that the real experts are over here! Sorry for similar post and will ask a moderator to delete original if that is required.

Anyway this is my query:

I am looking at buying a frame that appears to be in good condition. The seller says it seems to have been mostly kept in storage in the northeast.

There is a nick in the paint with a bit of rust showing in the photos. The seller says it appears to be a scratch from overshift and that it looks like surface rust that could be brushed off and coated with clearcoat or something else to neuatrlize and protect it. I have read various threads here about what to do to something like that but I was just curious if anyone would be willing to use their eagle eyes and encycopledic knowledge to venture an opinion about this rust spot. The seller is asking a premium for the good condition and the shipping is steep too, so just wondering if this is worth it (not in general, just if the rust poses any danger and could be more than superficial or could spread under the finish). I lived in Italy and L.A. for the last 25 years so no experience with rust but now I live in British Columbia, Canada hah where it rains more than not (almost) hah so am more concerned about rust.

Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas. This place is GREAT and people are so knowledgeable and helpful here!

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1d4ef0bae0.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...529119e897.jpg

Multiple ways you could approach this. I would use a scratch pen to remove the rust down to the metal, apply primer and top coat. I’d use a small brush or dabber to apply the primer and paint. If you’re really particular, you can feather the edges and wet sand to blend the edges. If you’re really, really particular, take care of the rust and have a pro airbrush the spot for a close match. Your local car dealer has a vendor that comes by to do this on a regular basis.

Others will likely recommend a chemical like Evaporust to mitigate the rust first. Nothing wrong with this although you’ll need to get creative with how to seal the chemical so it can work.

Thanks, sound like great solutions and more than one option already.

Clean tubing above the scrape so tape will stick.
Soak a clean piece of small cloth or paper towel with Evaporust. Should be really soaked.
Wrap Evaporust rag around tubing tightly.
Wrap saran wrap or similar over rag.
Wrap saran with tape.
Might have to dry exposed tubing to get a good seal where saran meets tubing.
Taped saran should prevent evaporation.
Let sit for at least 24-36 hours.
Might need second application.
** If you can leave bike indoors if cold where you live as frozen Evaporust won't work.
Ps - clean off Evaporust before painting, don't just let tubing air dry.
Could always try Barkeepers Friend first directly on rust spot, though wash thoroughly before using above Evaporust method as Barkeepers can discolour paint if left on too long.

They have gel now, a bit slow to work but if you reapply to keep it wet, it will work.

I think I would clean the spot, the rust is almost nothing, and like 1980, I would put a banana sticker over it and Bob's your uncle!

I'd scrape off the rust using an x-acto knife. Should take a good 5 minutes. And then there are 50 ways to protect the "bare" spot.

Definitely one of the least significant"problems" I have seen.

Examples of what WGB posted about here, showing how to properly wrap so it won't dry out, plus the extremely effective results: https://www.bikeforums.net/18433369-post29.html

However, with a chip like that, especially near decals, I wouldn't use Evap-o-rust, and I'm probably one of the biggest advocates of that product on BF. It will discolor some decals as shown in the post I just linked. Instead, I would use an Xacto knife to clear the "cliff" of paint off that one side of your chip, then use Naval Jelly (as directed) to de-rust it, then spot-prime the abre metal and topcoat following your primer's instructions.

Note: Naval Jelly is a super-effective product to clean rusted metal and is my go-to for bare metal chips which have rusted, whether it's rock chips on a vehicle or paint chips on a bike. For large areas of surface rust, Evap-o-rust is king. I can submit pictures of what to expect on a chip from my current vehicle if it's interesting.

Another option, ignore it and just ride.
In 10 or 20 years, if you still like the bike enough to pay for a respray, deal with it then.

Those of you who wash their bikes should stop reading here. My bikes are almost never cleaned, so I could wipe a smear of grease on the spot and it'll have a protective layer of grime for a long time. Re-smear once or twice a year whether it needs it or not!

My 1933 Excelsior spent some time (If I had to guess I'd say 20+ years) out in a field on its side where the grass grew up through the frame each year, and fell over and rotted each winter, until you couldn't see the bike at all under the thatch, except for one handlebar. When I first saw it I thought it was only a handlebar — imagine my surprise when I pulled on it and felt a bike attached! That bike rides great, had it since '79 and never dealt with the rust in any way beyond wiping it with an oily rag. Yes the tubing is a mite bit thicker than your 853, but 853 is also at least a little more corrosion-resistant than mild steel.

Mark B in Seattle

Wow. Thanks.

Ahaha, now that IS vintage!

Awesome, thanks. Went ahead and bought it.

I love it!

Naval Jelly, Clearcoat, Ride

Too much messy work, and the possibility of paint discolouration.

Arrange the frame so the offending spot is horizontal, make a dam of Plasticine around your spot, and put a teaspoon or so of your favourite rust remover in the dam. Come back tomorrow.